New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: ncrguy on October 28, 2020, 08:16:33 PM
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I'm in the process of rebuilding a 847 now,
I would love to see a picture of the pay wheel and the metal bracket over it.
Mine is missing, thank you in advance
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post split into new topic ...
outboard carriage looks similar to picture below. Same assembly was used in lotsa games.
main difference in the two carriage styles was the zero stop bumper. Some games also had two switches on the zero stop. The bally 500 supplement manual for the 847-2 shows one switch.
the carriage is only needed if you have payouts > 100 that are machine paid
I have a carriage assembly like the one pictured that you can have. Email me at slotpics@cdyn.com with mailing address if you want it. I may not have the fender washer and e-clips to mount it tho.
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I found someone on EBay selling what looked like what I could use, bought it and took it apart but it didnt come with the little switch that I know I need. That aside it fit and appears to work ok for now. I have to take the whole thing apart and clean it, de-rust it, and make it better (get rid of the mice waste smell) before I get to actually testing the pay out.
This is my 2nd wave project so thank you for your help as always.
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you got the older style unit with the eccentric stop.
I think you can remove the carriage and stick it on your unit ... someone else may know for sure.
the missing switch just prevents the payout counter reset coil from firing on a spin if the counter is already reset. For testing, you can just connect the orange/black 78-1 wire to the black/white 85-1 wire and let the coil power on every spin. It's just a wear-n-tear saver.
the longest switch blade and mating blade on the vertical stack on the unit you bought may work as a replacement for the missing switch. Remove the stack and hold it on the mounting ledge ... if the blade reaches the peg and the shorter one doesn't, then take the extra blades out of the stack and use it. You may need to file down the insulating cylinders if you remove blades and spacer wafers if there is just two of them that are full height of the stack.
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I think the small switch just opens the circuit to the "WIN PAID" lamp. The switch that stops the reset coil going every time is in the stack on the end of the reset solenoid. It closes when the first coin out step releases the pawl and opens when the reset coil latches the pawl out of the way.
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I think the small switch just opens the circuit to the "WIN PAID" lamp. The switch that stops the reset coil going every time is in the stack on the end of the reset solenoid. It closes when the first coin out step releases the pawl and opens when the reset coil latches the pawl out of the way.
could be different on various games, but the 847 schem says the opposite :-) The win paid lamp switch is on the reset pawl, and the reset coil disconnect switch is on the zero stop.
the cut wire colors in the picture agree with the schem.