New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: 4cheddar on March 22, 2015, 04:50:17 PM
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Hello,
I recently just purchased my first Bally S6000 slot machine, a 2,5,10x Respin Bonus Frenzy. After firing it up for the first time and hearing the Bally Gaming intro, it displays some error codes 5.5.38, 3.8., .2.02 I believe the 5.5.38 is the printer out of paper and I'm not sure what the others are. After sorting through the wonderful information on this site, I came to the conclusion that I will need to invest in a set of Clear Chips. Upon inspection of the MPU, picture provided, I noticed that the dip switches look different than what the manual shows. My question is 1.) What type of dip switches are on my board? 2.) How do you tell if you have the leave in mains? If I need clear chips, I'm interested in a set, just PM your price and details.
Thank you and I look forward to any help. The wife is ready to play some slots!! :me_too:
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I can help with one of your questions. The gray parts circled in yellow below are not dipswitches, we called them punch shunt blocks. They contain little individual metal straps that act as jumpers on the board to select certain settings. The little metal straps (shunts) are broken with a small punch or slotted twist tool when the game is built or maybe during installation by the customer's tech. It acts similar to a dipswitch (and similar to a group of wire jumpers) in making or not making connections, but they are considered more permanent. You can add a wire jumper to the back of the board if a broken strap needs to be reconnected. These are often used where they don't think any changes will be needed or if there is a worry about someone changing a dipswitch setting. If you get a manual that covers your mpu board it will describe what options & setup features the 3 shunt blocks are for. If you look down inside the holes you will see that some are intact and others are broken.
If needed, someone with soldering skill could remove these shunt blocks and replace them with dipswitches. EDIT- no soldering needed on this board, the shunt blocks are in sockets.
To help answer your other questions it might be helpful if you posted a few pictures of your machine, from the outside showing entire front of machine, plus interior photos showing the innards.
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You will need Clear Chips (I have several) I also have several real DIP switches I can pull from defective boards (they just plug in). Let me know if I can help.
Lin
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The shunt blocks are in sockets, I didn't notice that, will be easy to replace if needed.
Thanks LINDAM! Are DS2 and DS3 for sound settings?
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Thank you rokgpsman! Your response was very helpful. LINDAM, I'm sending you a pm.
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Thank you rokgpsman! Your response was very helpful. LINDAM, I'm sending you a pm.
you're welcome, does your machine look complete inside?
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DS2 is the denomination (coin) setting and the type of bill acceptor on board.
DS3 is your choose of market codes. (where the machine is located.
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Other than a few bulbs and some missing decals, and after a major cleaning, it's looking pretty good.
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Nice looking and really clean inside. I haven't seen one of those but my wife said she has played it, said it sometimes does a crazy spin and gets exciting.
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Other than a few bulbs and some missing decals, and after a major cleaning, it's looking pretty good.
Sorry if i missed this, but are you up and running???
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Not yet. I purchased the clear chips which did remove the codes, I had to make some jumpers for the hopper plug to clear a code 31 error and now I'm stuck with no lights and bill validator not accepting bills to start playing.
Here is the new topic I started. http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=5896.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=5896.0)
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I bought leave in safe ram clear chips. When I perform the procedure shown in the video nothing happen. I get no error codes nothing resets. In my sw1 a shunt block and #8 is still connected (which would me on) so I should be getting the "CH C followed by CL C" but it doesn't. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also on my shunt block for sw1 1-6, 8 are on and 7 is punched (off) is this correct?
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Are you holding down the psuedo coin and test switches while you turn power on? This will give you a full clear (CHC CLC)?
With the leave in reset chips the machine will always try a partial clear, CHP CLP (even if the psudo and test are not pressed) so after clearing you will have to remove the shunt and leave it out (DIP SW 8 off) for the game to play.
Always allow the reels to do their bump dance before closing the door. If you don't see a 50 it is in "set date" mode, simply press the change button to exit that setup option.
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If you're performing the safe-ram correctly but nothing at all appears in the win or credit displays I would check to be sure that all the "legs" of the new chips are properly seated in their individual sockets. It's real easy for one leg to be off a little and fold under the chip when you install it. To be sure I would pull them out and check. Also be sure that the notch is oriented correctly and that the chip is installed in it's assigned socket.
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Hey guys I just picked up my 1st bally s6000 blazing 777 w/ progressive (flashing c1). My other machines are all igt s2000. Trying to get the bally to work.I replaced the battery on the bally. Anychance someone knows the dip switch settings? I keep getting the 91.nc and the 50.
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Hey guys I just picked up my 1st bally s6000 blazing 777 w/ progressive (flashing c1). My other machines are all igt s2000. Trying to get the bally to work.I replaced the battery on the bally. Anychance someone knows the dip switch settings? I keep getting the 91.nc and the 50.
If the codes you are referring to are shown in the progressive display then the progressive board needs to be programmed (not easy). I would suggest looking in the progressive section on nlg to understand exactly what I'm talking about. There is a very informative post there specifically about s6000 progressives.
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Thanks, yea I seen all the complicated info on the progressive, but I should be able to get the game working and set the progressive up later I thought. The 3 dip switched on the board I'm unsure of the settings.
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After replacing the battery you MUST do a clear on the board in the machine it is to be used in.
No exceptions, the clear must be done immediately or any other codes could be bogus.
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Is there a way to bypass the stand-alone progressive?
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I have set option 2 and 7 to 0000. But still getting 91nc.
I'm able to run through all the test 1d-12d. Just can't get rid of the 91nc when I close the door. I've done complete clear with clear chips several times. I'd like to get this clear to work and figure out how to setup the stand alone progressive later. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Did you turn off all of DSW1 switches and turn on only switch #8 before doing the clear?
Did you see a CHC then CLC on the door display?
When you put the original chips back in did you first turn DSW1 #8 off then wait for the reels to do their seek spin, then, seeing flashing numbers on the display tap the change switch to get a 50 code?
Just asking.
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If I'm by passing the progressive for now what would the ds1 switches be set too
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Leave them all off after the clear procedure.
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So the code is gone and I get the 50. When I close the door I get just two decimals in the win paid. Quarter's pas right through
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So I just figured out my coin comparito green led isn't on. How ever I can activate it on the 02d test. So How do I activate for game?
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It only turns on when the door is closed, sorta like a refrigerator light in reverse.
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Ok thanks for all the help. Got it working til I opened to take out cash. Everything started flashing crrdit accepted insert credit and buttons. Clear chipped several times to get stop and now game chips comes up blank in win paid and credit. Could chips be bad?
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Ok cancel that. Got display working again but getting 2.3 and 5.0
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Ok again thanks for all your help. Its working good now. Next task getting the stand alone progressive working. Its flashing c1 and c2. I'm sure all the settings it out of wack. Also I read something about needing software
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Once a clear is done any settings you did in the setup section seen in the manual are erased and you have to set the options again. The progressive setup is one of those options that has to be set up again.
No special software is necessary.
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Attached is a page from the manual.
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Thanks, I'll give it a try. I downloaded the manual. I was getting the 91nc before I cleared and turned option 2 and 7 to 0000. The progressive scrolls thru all the settings up top then goes back to C1 and c2 . I have tested the 3v battery on the top progressive board it was 2.96. Wasn't able to find anything on the settings for the progressive board done by switch and two buttons.
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Any ideas?
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Yes , more than likely machine was off long enough for the mikohn battery to drain. That circuit does charge the battery which is why it shows voltage now. The board will need to be programmed , machine cleared and the 11d settings set for progressive. Scott
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When you say board programmed , are you talking about the software needing a computer and cable I was reading about? And thank you for feed back
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Yes that is the programming.
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Ok thank you. I'll give it a try soon
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Is anyone able to send me the psp program or a link to get it. It says I'm unable to open the download section on the site.
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Ok itd been alittle bit but I got game working, and the stand-alone progressive semi working. Its showing the jack pot but noting else. I have a message set up in psp but it doesn't show it. Also do I need to change any dip switch srttings for it to communicate with game?please help
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Good news, the jackpot is changing 1 cent every 13 spins.Not sure if thats 1 cent or 1 credit. Right now it says 1,500.05$ also the message I put in 6.MESS.DO isn't coming up after idel.
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Are the clear chips available for download? I have an epprom burner.. and I cant find the chips I bought a few years ago.. my battery went dead in my Star Spangled Sevens and its throwing error 8100 -- I need to clear it..
Thanks
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PM me, I will take care of you.