New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => WMS Williams Video => Topic started by: Rane420 on November 30, 2015, 11:24:02 PM
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:EmoticonHelp4:
Hello once again. In speaking to one of our great venders about my plans to convert my Bluebird 1 to a Bluebird 2, he made me an offer I couldn't refuse and so my quest to build an Alice machine has taken a turn as well as it's first committed step. Now I need some help figuring out what all my following steps should be. I'm afraid my finances exceed my tastes so this will be a longer project and right now I'm in the fact finding stages.
In short, I am the proud owner of a BB2 cabinet, but I bought it knowing it was missing some critically important things, like a processor, a button panel, a game and a bill validator. I'm hoping that by posting some pictures, you can help me determine if that is a comprehensive list or if I need to add some things to my wish list. Also, I know where to pick up my Alice parts and processor, but does anyone have any recommendations on validators to look for or button panels? Can you get away with a bb1 style or do all the bb2's require OLED type?
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You don't need the OLED panel for the games to work, unless the games require a special bet button, then you could use the SPN button panel for that. You would need to find the bb1 button and player panel lights harnesses to wire from the backplane. You will notice that your bb2 door has the pre-cuts for those harnesses. The validators are the same as those used in a bb1, even the harness is the same.
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So you are going with the transmissive reel version of Alice? Tough kit to find, very cool. :cool_thumb_up:
I can help with the Bill Validator (UBA) and basic button deck or extra bet button deck. I also recommend eventually getting a top and lower monitor, so many cool vid games out there to play, and the swap from reels to vid takes minutes. I can help with those monitors too (for sure the top).
Looks like a fairly simple project to get that bad boy spinnin. Congrats on the BB2! :yes:
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Hey Rick, thanks for taking care of the good news portion of this post.
Harvs, thank you for providing an example of why it is a good idea to know what you are doing when you buy a slot machine. I'm embarrassed to admit I thought I had a lower monitor already, but as your post suggests that would be the transmissive piece just covering some reels in my machine... I guess that leaves me with a little more thinking on the direction I need to go here... I'll PM you about what you have available. For now, I need to reach out to my Alice contact and see if they have some reels available as well. My fingers will remain crossed. In the long run, I'll definitely want to go the video route as well to gain access to the other titles. Maybe if I'm lucky I'll run into somebody with the Alice reel kit that always dreamed they could make their machine a Gold Fish 2 and we can work out some kind of swap. Once I get further along you'll probably be seeing a post in the classified section hoping that is the case!
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If you come up with Alice Strips, you would be one lucky guy. They are next to impossible to find. The good news is that there is a video version of the alice games as well and it plays just like the reel version. So if you cannot come up with the strips, it is easy enough to come up with the video version of the game and a bottom monitor. If you then get the animator, you are all set and will look like this.
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Beware of the Alice reel strips. The reel version of the game defaults back to stop 1 when the game is not being played or has money in it so those 3 symbols on the reels get faded really bad. That is probabaly the reason they could be hard to find. My local casino has 3 Alice mechanicals and the default position has no color and have no clue at what you're looking. Shame WMS was careless on their reel strips.
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That is a great point on the strips. When we played the reel version at the Paris, I thought the game was much older than it is due to that exact same issue. I really like the look of Rick's Alice picture :drool04: , it pops far more than the reel ones we played. I think my course of action will be to get the Goldfish 2 up and running first, then get the monitor and Alice parts up and going as video.
I believe that the BV that I will need for plug and play fun is a UBA, can anyone confirm if there is a specific version or if any UBA for Williams will do?
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Yes, you already have the UBA cage in there, so a uba 10 flashed with the right software will do.
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Hi all,
I was able to work some trades and have a BB1 panel with back plane harnesses in route as well as a UBA validator. Things are getting closer.
I also found some monitors that I may be picking up. Before I do, are there any other pieces and parts I need to be concerned about when converting from reel to video or is it simple plug and play? I've heard the process is pretty easy, but wasn't sure if I needed special harnesses and such.
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Going from reel to video is easier since all you need to do is remove the reel shelf with the reels, and disconnect the reel controller, the power to it and the spn cable.
Then you just swap the monitor for the regular video monitor and then the topbox monitor. You will need a vga cable to go from the mpu to the topbox monitor and a dvi cable to go from mpu to main monitor. Also a power harness and a touchscreen harness for the main monitor since on a reel machine, they are actually connected to the transmissive monitor.
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Thanks Rick, that helps a ton!
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Well, I've got another question. Someone had suggested that I use my BB1 cpu to temporarily boot up my BB2 cabinet to make sure all the other parts test as good. The first issue I see is that on the BB1, the monitor is VGA, the BB2 is dvi. Can I buy an adapter to go from one to the other? I found such a thing on Amazon, but the comments were saying that the adapter would only work for DVI-A, not DVI-I. I have no clue which one is coming from my transmissible screen. My understanding is that the transmissible will be ugly, but good enough for a test. Any thoughts are appreciated!
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Those adapters will not work, they don't go from VGA to DVI. You need to use a monitor that has a VGA connection. You can't use the transmissive monitor with the BB1 CPU.
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Thanks, I was afraid of that.
So, to compensate I'm wanting to test with a PC monitor. But before I do, I thought I'd post my configuration in case anyone has cause for concern before I toast something. To recap, I have a BB2 cabinet, a BB1 cpu, a pc monitor, and a BB1 button panel using a BB1 button harness. Before I throw the power switch for the first time, does anyone have any concerns or things I should check? I did a ram clear on the working BB1 before moving it. Do I need to do the same on the BB2 cabinet to clear anything on the back plane?
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Yes, you need to clear the BB2 backplane. Otherwise assuming the PC monitor is image compatible you should be good to go.
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I appreciate the quick response!
After performing the 2nd clear, I think my test was as successful as I'm going to get with the monitor and touchscreen on separate devices. If I were to press on, I suspect I'd have an excessively unique config.
At least I now know that the power supply, touch screen, animator, sound and lighting seem to be in order. Once I work out the details of getting a real BB2 brain in this thing I should be good to go. It may not have been pretty to most, but it sure was to me!
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Happy New Year!!!
Now for the question :-)
I got my BB2 monitors and have the main monitor mostly hooked up. I did not receive the harness for the touchscreen. I sent off an email to those I bought it from and may here back sometime next week. That said, I am curious what it will take to get up and going if they don't have it available to send out (and maybe to do some testing if I get too impatient). I saw near the backplane, a purple molex connector that looked like the one I disconnected for my transmissive screen and it looks like that runs up to a bunch of molex connections on the left side of the monitor area. I think what I am missing is a small six pin molex that goes from there to the monitor. According to the manual, it would be part "HD-021270-00-30". What the manual doesn't specify is whether the wires run to the same pin positions for each side of the harness. I'm thinking in the absolute worst case, I should be able to fashion some sort of jumper if I can confirm the pin positions. Anybody know that answer off the top of their head? At this stage I don't want to ask anyone to spend time pulling out monitors to look at the harnesses, but if someone already knows it's a simple run with no position changes I'd be grateful for the info!
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What brand monitors did you buy? Is the touch screen connector on the back of the monitor a black molex micro-fit connector?
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Those are great questions. Not sure I know the answer to either. I found a place that was parting out some BB2's and they sold me the set. I believe they are original, but that probably doesn't mean much. Sticker shows Wells Gardner. I'm also including a picture of the connector.
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Looks correct. If the place you bought the monitor from doesn't have the cable you need PM me and I can make you up one.
Have you tested the monitor to make sure it powers up.
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Thanks, I will do that!
And yes, it looks like the monitor works fine, I couldn't config anything without the touch, but the display seemed great.
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Thought I'd post a quick update. They sent out the touch harness without issue. I was able to configure All that Glitters and it looks like most everything is at least partially working. I followed the config video for a BB1 with a printer and no TITO, but for some reason it is still going to a hand pay when I push cash out. I can get a void voucher to print fine in the diagnostic screen, so it works, I must be missing something in the config. The validator accepts money, but the chute/guide that goes between the door bezel and the validator is missing. I'm reaching out to the vendor I got the validator from to see if he can help. But all in all, progress is being made. I can at least now play it as a BB1!
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Did you set validation to standard?
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Thanks Rick. I'll go through the set up again. I have it set to system. I think that was because I didn't see an option for standard, but maybe I wasn't observant enough.
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Some SJUR chips do not allow standard validation. I know for sure California Tribal does.
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I thought we had to use "System" validation???
Bettor TITO..............in all my games I use "System" for validation.
SM
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If you have a TITO board, you use "system" if you don't have a TITO board, you use "standard"
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Gotcha !!
I missed the NO TITO part...................... :duh:
Steve
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Well, I've no confirmed I do not have the "Standard" option, only "system" and "enhanced". Since System wasn't working I gave the enhanced option a go, but that caused some kind of protocol error. I suspect it wanted to chat with a non existent casino server. Since I've confirmed the printer works and this isn't the CPU that will live in my machine, it's probably not something that needs a solution. I've posted a picture of my version information in case someone has a quick fix or in case it helps someone down the road with a similar problem to be able to compare against. If I decide to revisit the issue for my BB1 and get it's printer going I'll start a new thread. It has a printer, but it also has a blanking plate rather than a printer bezel, so my first priority is my BB2 :-)
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Simple fix is change the jurisdiction chip to Mississippi. It will give you the standard option and also stop the counters from continuously clicking.
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It looks like your BIOS is the older version. That may be the problem. V2.000 is the latest/last version I believe.
SM
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Cool thanks. I'll post a WTB for both.
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Hi all,
When swapping the NXT-1 between my BB1 cabinet and my BB2 cabinet, I had been running a clear in the machine with the CPU, then running a clear on the second machine to take care of the back plane. One is at my house the other at my dad's. Today, I wanted to swap back to the BB1, but forgot to do the clear before I removed the CPU. My question is, was the first clear necessary or will I be ok as long as I run a clear on the BB2 prior to loading a game? It seems to me that the clear occurs prior to any game load and it shouldn't be a problem, but I had been doing the clear originally because I thought I remembered a post saying that the last loaded cpu needed to be in the machine prior to clearing the backplane. I would have seen that prior to owning a WMS and could have been an entirely different machine type or misinterpreted on my part.
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Yes you need to clear the game/cpu before removing/swapping it. As you said, basically, to clear the backplane. Machine needs to see clear backplane and clear cpu.
SM
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No clear is required before swapping CPUs. Only clear required after swapping them.
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Perhaps not if JUR is the same in both boards..........but he is talking about NXT 1 & NXT 2 swapping as well...........
Just saying..............
SM
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Nope, still not required
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Thanks all! I just wanted to make sure I didn't cause some kind of irrevocable error. I know I'll still need to do a clear on the BB2 prior to loading it up with a game again. I was just making sure that the CPU and back plane didn't have to be in sync for the clear to execute. It didn't make sense that would be the case, but had that partial memory nagging in the back of my mind. It was one of those situations where asking before the damage was done was preferable to after!
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I guess I was thinking of this quagmire I was caught in about a year ago........:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4662.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4662.0)
Steve
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I have swapped out BB1, BB2 and BB3 cpus in the same machine and never had to run a clear prior to the swap. I even change SJUR chips in CPUs without removing the CPU from the machine. Just run the clear prior to installing the game.
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I just do it that way (although very rarely any more) as good "clinical" practice.
The 1850 clear is so fast anyway, so I just do it.............lol
SM
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Thanks Steve, I think that is the post I was remembering. It sounds like even in the worst case if the jurisdiction chip causes a problem, when I put in the NXT-2 and problems occur, I should be able to pop the NXT-1 back in. Most likely, the NXT-1 will be in before the NXT-2 for additional testing anyways, but thank you for finding the original post! Hopefully, like IDesign has seen, it will work either way, but at least it has solution path if the bugs creep in.
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Hi all, I haven't yet purchased my nxt2 but did run across a 3.2 that isn't much more than I'd pay for the nxt2. If I were to make the jump to 3.2 is that much of a conversion since I have the bb2 cabinet? Also, would I still be able to play Gold fish 2 an the Alice games on it? If I can and there aren't a ton of additional parts I'm thinking that might be worth considering. I don't know a thing about the 3.2 stuff though so any thoughts are appreciated.
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You also need a Lighting Controller Unit to run BB3 (NXT3) games. and they can only run BB3 games. So no, it will not play Alice or Goldfish 2. I would get a NXT 2 any day before a NXT 3. NXT 3 is all dongle based as well, which means spending more money on the games.
The only reason I want a NXT 3 is to run Super Team and Wonka.
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Not all BB3 games require the Emotive Lighting Unit, but you are limited to only BB3 games. The BB3 CPU is not downward compatible with BB2 games.
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Thanks all! That's exactly what o needed to know. Nxt 2 is still the CPU of choice
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Not all BB3 games require the Emotive Lighting Unit, but you are limited to only BB3 games. The BB3 CPU is not downward compatible with BB2 games.
Thats great to hear since all I heard in the past is that YOU MUST have it.
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Can you clarify your statement about Wonka? You are saying Willy Wonka I assume? I thought Wonka was a WAP game and most folks will not have the equipment or set-up to be able to run that game. Is this right or wrong?
The only reason I want a NXT 3 is to run Super Team and Wonka.
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There are WAP and Stand Alone versions of both the Video and 3 reel Transmissive of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. Both SA versions will play on a BB2 with a NXT3 CPU in it.
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If no BB3 in place to test does the label state if Standalone or WAP
There are WAP and Stand Alone versions of both the Video and 3 reel Transmissive of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. Both SA versions will play on a BB2 with a NXT3 CPU in it.
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No, the cards look just like any other WMS card. You just have to know the part number.
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Hello all,
I just got a NXT2 from a well respected vendor from this site. I was able to run a clear successfully. I then made it through most of the configuration for the first time of Little Red. I made it to the config screen for the printer when both my screens blacked out and said they were no longer receiving a signal and the CPU sounded like it stopped working.
I turned it off, and turned it back on briefly and it looked like the CPU was starting up again. I am now scared to let it continue booting up. Does anybody have any thoughts?
I did notice an error message saying that the battery 2 was low, but I wouldn't have expected a low battery to cause this type of failure.
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Doesn't this well respected vendor provide support? Sounds like you got hosed. Call them up.
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They do, I've reached out and expect I will be contacted. If there is a problem more substantial than a battery swap I am hopeful they will make things right. It just happened and wanted to post in case someone could offer insight as to whether something like this pretty much means a bad CPU or if possibly there was a stupid user issue that could be pointed out and I could move forward.
Luckily my garage door opener uses the same battery and tested good so I'm going to try and load it up again.
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Make sure that the CPU is locked down tight using the lever to pull it down. Let us know how you make out with this.
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Hopefully it was simply a stupid user error. I forgot to cinch the cpu down with the lever. I swapped the battery, reran the clear and successfully configured and played Little Red! The only thing I still question is the topbox looks like it is expecting a different resolution and shows only a part of the image. I forgot about the auto adjust so that may take care of it. Will update once I test.
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Sometimes, the VGA cable is loose. I've had that happen to me as well. Just plug/unplug the vga plug from the mpu.
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So, did you ever get the top box monitor to display correctly?
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I was finally able to get back to it. I ended up reseating the MPU, and replugging all the cables and it was a success! Now on to see if I can get Goldfish 2 up and running. Thanks all!
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Well, Goldfish 2 installed without a hitch! I still have some minor tweaks left, but all in all I think it now qualifies functional BB2! It's been a long trek and thanks to all who have helped along the way. Enough typing, I think I'll go play my machine :-)
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Sooo....the MPU kept shutting down after being on for a while so I ended up sending it back to the vendor and was told the Adastra board had an issue and needed to be replaced. It was repaired and sent back to me and I received it today. I plugged in the monitor cables, reseated them a couple times, reseated the MPU, but every time I power up it says no signal is going to the monitors. The cabinet works fine when I put my BB1 MPU in it, so I have a hard time thinking it is on my end. Does anyone have any thoughts? As always, please feel free to offer up the obvious as I haven't yet reached the point where the obvious is necessarily spotted.
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So the solution is to buy from a reputable vendor. Send that pos CPU back to whoever you bought it from and get your money back.
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This is likely the best advice you will get at this time I think i.e. a reputable vendor . :I_agree_1: I just had a similar situation on a BB3 CPU and thanks to some solid advice from this Forum it worked out ok.
So the solution is to buy from a reputable vendor. Send that pos CPU back to whoever you bought it from and get your money back.
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:-) I definitely appreciate the advise. I chose this vendor because of the praise I've seen given on this site. The reason I haven't provided a name is this is my first transaction with him and I'm hoping that this isn't reflective of how most of his sales go. I would definitely have loved for my MPU to be plug and play, but with used parts, static and less than gentle mail handling I can only assume that these kind of things show up from time to time and I'm trying to give the benefit of the doubt. He has put forth the effort to make it right by fixing it at his expense. When I reached out to him today, he told me they normally don't provide BIOS and Jusisdiction chips and that is the cause of my problem. I'm not sure why they were there the first time and not this one, but he apologized and is going to overnight them Monday. All this said, If anyone has any recommendations or favorite vendors I certainly am grateful for any contact information passed my way. I haven't had home slots for long, but the one thing I have noticed is that a lot of vendors don't want to deal with the small time orders so the longer my list of contacts is, the more enjoyable this hobby will be.
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This entire thread is confusing. You started out with a CPU that didn't work because you didn't have the CPU cinched down and had loose cables. You finally get it to work, but started to shut down after awhile of use. So you send it back to this vendor and now it doesn't work at all. Not only that you say the BIOS and jurisdiction chips are missing and the vendor says they normally don't supply them with the CPU. So in order to have the machine working to begin with as before it had to have had the chips originally. Now he is sending you the missing chips. Hopefully the missing chips are all that are needed to get it going and keep it going.
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I agree it is quite confusing, but you summed it up very well. The only thing I'd add is that the faulty Adastra board may have been causing some of the symptoms I was seeing and I incorrectly diagnosed the matter with the uncynched MPU and loose cables, but they may have been entirely their own issues. I don't know enough about what all a bad Adastra board could cause. When I first received the new MPU I was at a complete loss about what was causing my problems and reseating the MPU or replugging the cables all seemed to help. After I would leave the machine run for a while I'd come back and both displays would go back to not having a signal. Which at first I kept attributing to the cables but it was in fact that the MPU quit sending a signal. As you summed up, the problem I have now didn't start until I got the repaired board back and it hadn't occurred to me that other pieces would have went missing in the process. I too sincerely hope that the missing pieces come and this whole process can have a check in the completed column. I appreciate you sticking with me through the rabbit hole, but with any luck I'll find Alice and some Enchanted Mirrors on the other side.
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Good luck with it. Hope it all works out for you!! What a PITA but well worth it. Post some picts after you have it all working :cool_thumb_up:
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So more than a little time has gone by, but considering I got the finishing pieces (topbox and glass) for a transmissive Alice, it seemed like an update was order regardless of the post’s ancient status. Thanks again to all those who have helped, whether it was recently or over the past few years!
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You just need the topper now,hint hint😄
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I have a NEW topper and might be able to part with if interested.
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I wish my ceilings were accommodating:-)
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Yea, I understand.