New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => Bally EVO and EVO hybrid. => Topic started by: shortrackskater on June 28, 2014, 05:46:26 PM
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GAME DISABLED - COIN REVERSE
I was getting that message on my EVO. I'm hoping it's common to the Game Maker or other Ballys as well.
Here's all the details... hope this makes sense:
First the bill box wasn't seating properly. I cleaned it, shove it on and the error went way, only to return.
I checked my CC. The entire housing was loose. I tightened it. Below the CC is the optics board. I removed the metal cover and saw the circuit board was about to fall away from the mounting.
I tightened that.
I also turned the sensitivity screw all the way to the left. As I said, only about one of five nickles will go through. I turned it all the way right and none were accepted.
ALSO... when I first removed the cover from the optic board, I noticed the chip inside had the top far right leg squished out of the socket and was pressed against the metal pin of a plug that's just above it to the right. I pulled out the chip, fixed the leg and plugged it back in.
Since I've done this, that error "sort of" went away. It came on last might again, but the message said "open and close door to clear tilt error."
Could the IC leg have caused any problem? It almost looked like it was intentionally left out and made to contact that pin! :Scratch-Head:
Also... the green light on the CC is now off. It was on before. Confusing as heck. :hissyfit:
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Did you convert this game from one denom to another?
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Nope. It started its life taking nickels and still is a nickel slot. I'm heading to the garage... well maybe a kitchen wine stop first... then to the garage. I'll turn it on and see what it's decided to do.
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No longer (for now) getting the COIN REVERSE error. The green light on the CC is on when the door is closed...it fades away when door is opened. It's not taking any coins now at all. The optics board has an amber light glowing.
Still getting COIN REVERSE. Now it will happen during a payout... locks up. I have to open and close the main door and it resumes payout.
The coin comparitor sends the coin to the try all the time now.
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Ok, first, have you checked what size coin guide it has in it? Just because you think it was always a nickel machine doesnt mean some other guide wasnt swapped in at some time. Just humor me, and double check it and make sure it's not a 25c or dollar guide.
Second, you said you were twisting the sensitivity dial all the way one way then all the way the other. Proper technique I was always told by knagl and stayouttadabunker was to start all the way one direction, then turn 1/4 turn at at time, and check for improvement at each turn.
What's up with the amber light, I have no clue. Not sure if its normally on or not, or what the problem may be.
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Dumb question of the day/week/year... where is the guide? Is that in the CC or past? Sorry!
This started happening RIGHT after I straightened that pin and plugged it in properly.
Here's the other error too. I can clear the error... leave the game idle and the error will re-appear.
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The coin guide is a black plastic thing situated inside if the optics board sandwich (I think that will get you close enough anyway, that's where an IGT is). It's a black plastic piece that should that has "guides" on each side to "guide" the coin to align the coin properly so that it is seen by all the "eyes". A larger coin guide will not "guide" the coins properly so they hit all the optics necessary, thus, generating an error.
Sorry, I don't know Bally that well, but that's the gist of the convo I had with Darrell regarding your problem.
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Got it! I know right where that is... I was just "there." I'll go back and look at the width. :sherlock:
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Here it is...I left the nickel there to show size... a quarter drops right though there no problem. This DID work though for a long time, taking nickels. And the previous owner had it for a few years using nickels.
Update again - One of the wires going to the CC just fell out. I think it was not making contact. I will solder it tomorrow night and report back.
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I would think a reverse coin error indicates the machine sensed a coin at the optics then the CC and thinks someone has a nickel on a string. If your CC is faulty or the signal from it is delayed you could get this error possibly. If the problem persists after you fix that wire you might try swapping with a different CC. Sounds like that one has had a few issues so far. Your optics insert should be marked with what size coin it is for. Generally, a quarter insert will work for nickels too
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What Coin Comparitor does your machine have? If it is the CC-62 then the problem is most likely the coin guide is set too wide as CV Slots said. Had this same problem with Uni Ultras equipped with the CC-62. The CC-62 senses the coin rattling side to side as it drops.
Even if is not a CC-62, the guide should be only able to accept a nickle.
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Ok, first, have you checked what size coin guide it has in it? Just because you think it was always a nickel machine doesnt mean some other guide wasnt swapped in at some time. Just humor me, and double check it and make sure it's not a 25c or dollar guide.
Second, you said you were twisting the sensitivity dial all the way one way then all the way the other. Proper technique I was always told by knagl and stayouttadabunker was to start all the way one direction, then turn 1/4 turn at at time, and check for improvement at each turn.
What's up with the amber light, I have no clue. Not sure if its normally on or not, or what the problem may be.
It's a home use game so turn the sensitivity control completely counterclockwise (left all of the way).
The Amber light on is normal and means the optic board is getting power.
If you are getting "coin in reversed" it means the coin comparator is working and the coin optic board is the problem.
You can try re-seating the big chip on the optic board, other than that you could sent the entire coin in assembly, bracket, comparator, and mounted optic board to Larry to get it fixed. 702-363-9998
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Repairing the broken wire did nothing.
CC 16d, 4b
Still getting coin reverse error... it will happen with the machine idle and door open.
Reseated the chip... nothing. Still baffles me that it worked when the top left pin was out of the socket and making contact with the pin above it.
Sensitivity is all the way left.
Why will it work for many plays (using credits) and then go back into COIN REVERSE error?
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It could be the plug that plugs into the optic board has some dirty pins or collapsed contacts.
Make sure the pins are clean on both the optic board and the plug that plugs into it.
If the connector is a brown KK-100 type of connector you can slide a thin blade into the exposed window, collapsing the small keeper wing) and slip the pin and wire out of the housing for inspection.
Use a razor blade to bend the pin keeper back out before re-inserting the pin and wire back into the housing.
If the connector is the IDC type where the wire is wedged between two blades on top of the connector you can't remove the pins but you can (slip off the top protective cover if there is one) press each wire deeper into it's two blades to make sure there is a good electrical connection.
Make sure the send and receive optics on the optic board are clean.
If none of that helps your optic board is probably failing randomly, and will soon fail all of the way.
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I actually did all that! Thank you though...
I had a spare working cable. I did fix the old one. I can swap that in just to make sure but I'm sure it's working too.
Still wondering... would this cause the random COIN REVERSE error as well?
I guess I should just post a WTB for that board. I'd rather just buy another one than send my stuff out...unless it's some bizarre weird board that no one has... which would not surprise me in the least, at this point! :)
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In my neck of the woods they are very rare.
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I pulled out the optic board again to inspect it and I did get a very slight burn smell. Here's the board. I'll post in WTB as well. I hope someone has this.
Would it make sense for me to also do a clear on the machine and DISABLE the CC to see if my intermittent "coin reverse" error goes away?
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Yes, and unplug the optic board.
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I just unplugged the optic board. I've been playing it off and on for an hour, while I put back together my refurbished mpu and suitcase boards into their chassis.
No error... no COIN REVERSE... it just keeps working. I didn't even bother to clear it. Seems to be working fine, other than the occasional yellow screen! (I'll fix this later... I tried de-gaussing)
I think I need an optic board.
I will consult with CV slots. :applause:
Thanks for the help Badbaud and everyone else, again.
I see why EVO's aren't so popular... but dammit... I will make this one work! :waving_flag:
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Okay this is INTERESTING.
I got the replacement optics board assembly. I installed it and... drum roll... annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd...NOTHING! Still won't take coins.
From the information I got earlier I had assumed the CC was okay.
But just for fun, I removed it and left it connected and then manually let a nickel drop through the guide and the machine DID register it with a new error:
COIN MECH ERROR (something like that).
So I'm thinking maybe the obvious... the CC was bad? Or both the CC and optics board are bad. Tomorrow I'll put the old board back in and try the same test.
Comments?
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Some games use a "vend" signal coming out of the coin comparator to enable the optic board to allow the coin to be accepted by the optic board.
Maybe your comparator is not sending out this signal?
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I'm trying to read as much as possible on the CC for this Bally, so I don't ask "stupid questions." :no:
But my reading is just bringing up more questions...
I just found a pdf file on all the peripherals on my EVO. It look like I should be using a CC 62, that uses the optics circuit below it. The machine will then accept the coin once both signals are detected...right?
Well mine has a CC16D (4b) and worked before and I don't know why. The only thing I did was re-seating the IC in the optics board because pin 10 was bent out and touching the pin above it. It almost looked intentional, but I straightened it out and reseated the chip.
I haven't been home yet to test my old optics board (see my previous post here) the way I tested the replacement.
Can anyone with an EVO tell me what model CC is in theirs?
I need to look for a schematic for the optic board just to rule out pin 10 wasn't intentionally bent out to somehow disable or "fool" the MPU to thinking it got both signals.
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Man...slot machine repair is NOT instant!!! you need to settle down!!! It's just a box of parts, that's why you got it for <$200?????? Don't stress the little shit!!! Please tell me you installed the optics?
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Man...slot machine repair is NOT instant!!! you need to settle down!!! It's just a box of parts, that's why you got it for <$200? ??? ?? Don't stress the little shit!!! Please tell me you installed the optics?
Actually I got it for $100! :propeller:
I'll return with replies... gotta work today.
I'm not really that stressed. I just like the little head banging wall icon!
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Ok I took away the head banging guy... I'm not stressed... just trying to reason on this logically: It did work as it stands at one time, taking nickles.
This started slowly... it would register most nickles... then that weird "coin reverse" error started and it stopped taking coins all together.
"We" determined it was likely the optic board. Also, when I ran the machine with the CC and optics board disconnected, it worked fine... no "reverse coin" error at all.
As for the optics connected... well yes... the board is plugged in, the CC is plugged in. Still not working, but as I said earlier... I pulled out the CC and dropped a coin through the guide and the new "COIN MECH" error message popped up. This is telling me the optics board IS working, I believe. So I'm still happily and non-stressfully holding on comments on my last two posts... on that bent pin and on the CC model for the Evo. :thank_you: :thank_you:
I read the comments from Buzz... I don't want to be one of those kind of people! :Tongue_Out:
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I just found a pdf file on all the peripherals on my EVO. It look like I should be using a CC 62, that uses the optics circuit below it. The machine will then accept the coin once both signals are detected...right?
Well mine has a CC16D (4b) and worked before and I don't know why. The only thing I did was re-seating the IC in the optics board because pin 10 was bent out and touching the pin above it. It almost looked intentional, but I straightened it out and reseated the chip.
I haven't been home yet to test my old optics board (see my previous post here) the way I tested the replacement.
Can anyone with an EVO tell me what model CC is in theirs?
I need to look for a schematic for the optic board just to rule out pin 10 wasn't intentionally bent out to somehow disable or "fool" the MPU to thinking it got both signals.
THIS IS IN NO WAY, A RANT!
Honestly - I've looked for these answers and can't find much. Either I'm just dumb or it's difficult to find coin comparitor information specific to the Bally model I have. I've seen the lists on NLG but couldn't find the difference between some CC's. I'm not a slot tech. I don't do this for a living. I do try and help others here with what I know and what I've learned.
Okay back to the CC stuff...there may be more information out here, but it's getting harder to find...the needles are there but the haystacks are getting larger. :rotfl:
If anyone knows about the CC types I listed and are used in the EVO, please let me know. I've basically shotgunned parts to get this machine working. I'd love more info on the CC where I quoted my own question from July 7. I couldn't find a CC16 from my favorite vender here... you know who you are... :applause: ... so I found one on Ebay. It's on the way and I hope it solves my coin-in problem.
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Here is a chart someone posted a while ago.
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Thanks! :1:
I actually saw that one a while back during my search. I still am trying to find one that shows the designation past the number...
Mine is a CC-16D 4B and I'd like to know what the D and the 4B are for. I'm guessing different voltages and inhibit or not. But it's hard to find a chart that shows the information. I saw some listings on ebay that do show this. Maybe if I keep going on ebay often enough, I'll get them all. :)
My replacement CC will be here today so I hope soon I'll find out if that solves the problem. Then it's on to an interesting touch screen issue.
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The coin comparator came in. I installed it and got a working coin-in machine again. However after 5 or so coins in, I got "coin drop" and "reverse coin" error. I adjusted the sensitivity pot all the way left and it started working again.
But after the 7th or so coin, I got "reverse coin" error again!
I pulled out the CC and just cleaned where the coin goes and cleaned the sensitivity pot with contact cleaner.
It seems to be working now but I'm afraid to try a multiple coin insert again!
I've never seen such a temperamental machine as this one... you'd think these issues wouldn't all be intermittent like this. There's nothing left to replace here unless the coin comparator has any other adjustment that I'm missing.
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I've removed the thumb screw at the top of the comparitor before because of was having an adverse effect on coin drop speed
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Just unscrew it completely? Is it some kind of regulator?
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Counterweight for that arm, I've had it work worse before too so don't throw it away
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Just unscrew it completely? Is it some kind of regulator?
It was used to slow down the rate that coins could be dropped through.
Preventing cheaters from dropping coin-slug-coin quickly and getting a credit for the slug.
But it could also be the coil with rake on the back is slow and catching coins.
You could try wedging the rake open with a piece of folded paper or cardboard but be careful not to drop more then max coin in per game as the optics will see it as an extra coin and give you a tilt.
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Just unscrew it completely? Is it some kind of regulator?
It was used to slow down the rate that coins could be dropped through.
Preventing cheaters from dropping coin-slug-coin quickly and getting a credit for the slug.
But it could also be the coil with rake on the back is slow and catching coins.
You could try wedging the rake open with a piece of folded paper or cardboard but be careful not to drop more then max coin in per game as the optics will see it as an extra coin and give you a tilt.
Thanks Badbaud... It seems to be fine now. I've inserted 27 coins twice and got no error... I did notice the little locknut that keeps the sample coin track in place was backed out. I don't know if that would cause any problem...vibration maybe? I snugged it up.
I almost want to swap out the CC's with my old one just to confirm this was my problem. I'm 99.9% percent sure it was. This Bally EVO will take more than the max coin-in amount. It just keeps crediting. I think that's normal for the machine. I've done so much work to get this running and I'd like to really confirm what problems I had with this topic... BUT maybe I better leave well enough alone for now. I mean... if it's not broke... !! :rotfl:
I guess the one other thing I'm curious about is the width of the optics opening just after the CC. I've swapped this out but the opening of the new one was the same as the old... it's a nickle machine but the opening would allow a 50 cent piece to pass through. But, like I said... it's seems to be fine now and I've played about 100 coins through w/o errors.
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I think quarter and nickle had the same opening while 50 cent and dollar had a wider one.
Some people wedge a sliver of plastic inside the gap to prevent the coin from missing one of the optics but removing the slow down arm may have caused the coin to take a more direct path to the optics.
You may still get an error or two with to wide of an opening.
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I didn't remove the arm! Just really cranked the sensitivity control all the way left. I'll go test the width... and maybe stick in the old CC and just see what happens. I'm curious.
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Glad you got the CC today and seem to be having better luck with it over your original.
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Glad you got the CC today and seem to be having better luck with it over your original.
Yes the old CC definitely was bad. Thank you for the great service. :applause:
I did end up putting the old CC back in just to make sure it was bad - and it will not accept any coins whatsoever.
But I was still getting an occasional "coin jam" or "reverse coin" error. They would always clear when I opened the door though.
I just spend the last hour and a half with the machine trying to determine why I'm getting errors. I removed that "slow down" arm and got no change. I removed the coin head and cleaned the small chute just past the head. It had some corrosion in it. That didn't make any difference. I removed the optics board and made sure things were clean there. I put some tape on the top of the guide which should have directed the nickle more toward the optics - that didn't do it, but maybe there is a smaller one available? I'm still not sure of the width of the one that's standard for a 5 cent machine.
If I load coins slow and steady, it seems to be fine. Maybe this is just how they are? But none of my IGT's do this at all. I can speed load coins and have never had an error.
I'll keep checking here for any ideas.
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Ok a few PM's now and I have an answer that had been discussed before, and that was the size of the optics guide just past the coin comparator.
I replaced mine and still had the problem, after replacing the CC, which was definitely bad.
My replacement guide is the same size as my other one, which would allow a 50 cent piece to pass through. Tjlee had a similar problem with his IGT and just shimmed it, and Badbaud said the same thing. I'll rig up a shim and see if I get a more consistently working machine.
And maybe sometime there will be someone here who has a nickel Bally with an optics board, who will measure the opening and post it.
UPDATE:
I added a plastic shim inside the optics guide. Same thing: it would still would work for a few coins... then if I "rapid fed" them, I'd get an error or a jam. When it jammed I opened the door and saw the jam was at the point where they drop into the optics guide. I gently pulled and pushed the inner door panel out and in the the coins fell through. I looked around and spotted two phillips head screws that attach the panel to the right side and they were both loose! I thought I had looked over everything when I bought this machine but I guess I overlooked those. Tightened them up and I haven't had ANY jam or error since. It still will drop through a nickel from time to time but maybe my "new" comparator is the cause?
My guess is that I had an alignment issue here along with combination of other things like the bad CC that was in it. Still have no clue if the guide is correct or not but I should now take the shim back out and see if it still works. I get the strangest combinations of problems in the slots I buy but I think this problem is resolved. Knock on wood! Now I need to figure out how to program my top progressive box.
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I took the shim out of the guide. Played and it worked but still kept missing coins from time to time. Tried again today and the same damn thing happened from a couple weeks ago. It accepted less and less coins. I'd put in 10 and 6 would be rejected. Put the old CC back in again and none were accepted.
SO... I'm 99.9% sure that this new used CC is failing. I really haven't troubleshooted a coin comparator before but I put a piece of plastic and wedged the rake open. It takes coin after coin now... no jams, no returns, no "coin reverse" error, no "coin jam" error. Got one "coin mech diverter failure" so I re-shimmed the plastic further in to open the rake all the way. Back to taking coin after coin.
Is this a definitive way to determine it's absolutely the CC? I'd think so.
Do these go out often or did I just get the luck of 2 bad CC's? I have a CC-16D 4B.
I hope someone replies since this really isn't a specific EVO issue anymore... ha ha :) :EmoticonHelp4:
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I have found that replacing the 220 uF 35V main cap on the PC board sometimes fixes a problem.
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Thanks! :1:
I'll try anything at this point. I does keep working with the rake jammed open!
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Make sure the cap is small or the lid won't fit over it.
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Just bought the cap... it was a 330 uf in the board. I'll stick it in tomorrow.
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Okay it's only been 4 months!
I'm resuming this subject... hope someone's out there.
The cap didn't change anything in the CC.
Since then I've had to change the battery in the MPU. I made all the proper settings and got a working machine. I put in 40 50 60 nickels and no problems. Then it started again! COIN REVERSE or COIN JAM (there was never a jam either). I can clear it by opening and closing the door.
Now... many more coins are just dropping through...like it's a CC issue. I replaced it but, as I said in the other thread... maybe it's bad too? I said this in July:
Do these go out often or did I just get the luck of 2 bad CC's? I have a CC-16D 4B
Are those CC's notoriously bad? Is there another one that would be compatible?
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The coins are getting through the CC so I would try another coin optic board.
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The coins are getting through the CC so I would try another coin optic board.
Well I already did replace it.
Maybe the replacement was bad, but I don't know how to test it and it came from a good source too! I do remember dropping a nickel past the CC, directly into the COD board and it gave some indication of the coin passing through. I guess I'll take it apart and repeat everything again...
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Is that a Game Maker. If so did you set it up as a coin acceptor plus COD board?
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No ... it's an
EVE ...er make that an EVO - and, yes I did set up for CC and COD board. I tried CC only just for the hell of it and the coins dropped through. Now with CC and COD board, some drop through... some work... sometimes I get COIN REVERSE and sometimes I get COIN JAM (even if no jam).
There's NO rhyme or reason here unless I just by chance bought a bad COD board and/or a bad CC.
I just can't afford to keep buying shit and shotgunning this machine.
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Logically you have the option of continuing to buy shit until you get the machine working or give up.
I don't know what kind of a machine a EVE is but if it is a newer machine many manufacturers switched to a 12 Volt DC CC16.
A CC16D is a 24 volt AC comparator.
When a coin does get sensed by the COD board you get coin reversed or coin jam.
CC16D comparator does not have the circuitry to provide those error codes.
Those codes only come from the COD board.
It's only job is to look for slugs.
The DC comparator has additional circuitry to provide a coin optic "A" signal to the COD board and the COD board provides the coin optic "B" and "C" signals as the coin passes through.
If the COD board has some surface mount parts on it and a plug in long DIP switch it usually needs to get a coin optic "A" signal from the comparator.
If the COD board consists of three pairs of transmitter and receiver optics and some resistors the comparator can be a CC16D or a mechanical coin acceptor as coin optic "A" through "C" signals are obtained as a coin falls past t hem.
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I almost fell out of my chair laughing when I saw that I wrote EVE instead of EVO! :24:
Of course, it's a Bally EVE, the companion to the one less ribbed ADAM machine. :rotfl:
Thanks for the detailed reply!
I'll take it apart tonight after work or tomorrow and check everything carefully.
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"a plug in long DIP switch" should read DIP IC, it is usually a 18 or 20 pin IC in a socket.
As far as the COD board goes on the older Bally it provided all 3 coin optic signals.
They used a CC16D on the older Bally but a EVO may have a different requirement.
Still it is the COD board giving you reversed coin errors.
I have repaired those boards and amazed how many times it was a bad IC.
Unfortunately the IC was a PIC micro controller chip and I couldn't read the software to clone it onto a blank so had to get one off of another board.
On some one of the optic receivers was weak and giving random errors.
I replaced all three as Bally didn't have a test to show A through C optics firing like IGT does.
We do repair those boards if you want to send in your complete coin bracket with COD board and comparator attached.
Hopefully Bally didn't stray far from the Bally 5500 to the EVO because I test them on a 5500 tester.
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The only thing that makes sense to me, logically... is that I have a bad CC and a bad COD board...again. They've both been replaced but with used (but I assume "good") ones.
Tonight I jammed open the rake on the CC and I'm getting 100 percent coin acceptance.
I'll keep putting in coins and see if I get a coin reverse again.
UPDATE:
After a number of coins inserted, I got a "COIN JAM" error. Opened door, closed door... and it clears.
Stand by...
After 34 coins, I got "COIN REVERSE" error. Opened door, closed door... cleared.
I've inserted 137 coins so far... no error!
Still it seems to me, that it's both the CC and the COD board.
Frustrating.
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But your comparator is incapable of giving you those errors. It only checks for slugs and you have the rake wedged open so even a slug would pass through.
Those errors can happen with a good COD board if the coin has to wide of a gap to fall past the optics and the coin is able to side step one of the three optics on the way through.
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But when I unjam the rake...they just fall through... mostly. I might get one coin registered out of 20.
I've now inserted 239 coins so far, no error.
I bought the COD board from Roz and it was the proper one... it does have a wide gap though! I tried shimming it before but removed the shim when I thought it was the CC.
These machines are so obscure, no one knows enough about them!
334 nickels inserted so far, no error! Ahhhhhh
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That could be because the comparator re-directs the coin slightly out of the range of the COD optics when the rake is in play.
Without the rake the coin has a more direct path.
I have seen this happen when someone has a dollar spacer in a machine that takes nickles or one that takes quarters.
Have you held the COD board in your hand and dropped a coin into he left side, then right side of the slot and viewed it's path past the optics to see if a coin could miss a optic.
The solution would be to find the correct spacer for that denomination or be creative with a sculptured piece of plastic glued into the slot to keep the coin in front of the optics as it passes.
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I did hold it without it being connected and saw there was some space. I made a "tape spacer" but then removed it when I thought I had the problem corrected with the "new" CC. And that was after I bought the replacement COD board.
I'll remove it now and fabricate something... somehow.
So far, it's been fine. This is the most coins it's accepted without error. Still I'd like to figure this out.
When I did a set/clear I selected Coin Comparitor only and thought it would bypass the COD board. It didn't ... but I didn't have the rake jammed. Do you know if that would determine if I did have a bad CC, if I deselected the COD board in settings and coins passed through?
Thanks for all the help.
UPDATE:
At coin number 435 I got "COIN REVERSE COIN MECH DIVERTER FAIL" error.
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If you can hold the comparator in your hand with the door closed and power on and the coin falls through the left side of the comparator you know the comparator is working, the rake is opening and closing at the correct time.
A comparators only other option is to reject the coin and drop it through the right side into the coin tray.
Make sure the small adjustment on the front of the comparator is turned fully counter clockwise (leftie loosie).
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If you can hold the comparator in your hand with the door closed and power on...
I can't do that.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding.
I did remove the COD board again. here's a shot of the space. I still think this is for a quarter but all this was hashed out already and those that knew EVO's said it was the proper one.
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Okay I just "fabricated" this out of two layers of foam tape stuck to the plastic COD coin optic thing.
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Hang on...
Had to delete the last post here and re-write it.
There's just no rhyme or reason to this. I made the shim... reinstalled all and then all coins were dropping to the hopper and not being registered at all!
Took it all apart again... made sure it was aligned... same thing.
Swapped out the chip with my spare "possibly working" other COD board... same thing.
Removed my shim... reinstalled... same damn thing... no coins registered... just dropping in.
Fussed again... made sure it was exactly as it should be, comparing it to the other COD unit (with frame). Reinstalled it but I had taking the shim out... now it's working again!
This machine is beyond my brain capabilities. I did get it from being completely dead to "almost fully" working but the frustration is making me drink!
:drinker:
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Okay I just "fabricated" this out of two layers of foam tape stuck to the plastic COD coin optic thing.
yes you have a 25cent guide that what is wrong I had same trouble
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From your first picture I can see the spacing was to wide and that is why you were getting errors.
The spacer you installed looks much better but foam tape is sticky and could slow down the coin.
Find a hard piece of plastic to make the wedge.
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From your first picture I can see the spacing was to wide and that is why you were getting errors.
The spacer you installed looks much better but foam tape is sticky and could slow down the coin.
Find a hard piece of plastic to make the wedge.
Badbaud - did you know you helped me with this same issue extensively? Just scroll back to page 1, 2...
I thought it was determined that the 5 and 25 cent guide were the same size? Mine still seems big to me.
I'll try making a wedge again that won't cause any friction to the coin.
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I cut up a plastic stick-on wire tie mount. It fit right in. I played a while...working so far. I removed the jam from the rake and it's still good so far.
I feel like I've been here before though.
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My fingers are crossed
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My fingers are crossed
Well good news and bad news...
So far I haven't got any COIN REVERSE type errors. But... it once again began dropping some coins through, but just to the tray. At the same time, I notice the touch screen stops responding too. This happened before, a long time ago. I have no idea if there's any connection.
I re-wedged the CC. I cleaned the screen, for the hundredth time.
Working again.
It's listed on Craigslist too. Problem is I don't want to sell it to anyone who doesn't know what an EVO is. It's just not right.
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It may be time for the shotgun approach.
Re-seat every connector in the machine, unplug it and plug it back in a couple of times.
A freezing screen could indicate a computer board problem or a dirty connector, let's hope it is the latter.
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Okay did all the above, again! So far, it's working. Once in a great while, the CRT turns more yellow! I can just tap it and it stops.
I'm just running out of the will and energy to keep working on this machine.
In my few years of collection slots, I've fixed a LOT of IGT s plus's, s2000's, CEI poker, Status poker, and even my Bally Game Maker. But NOTHING has been as strange and obscure as this machine! It has been FUN (believe it or not) getting this up and running but it wasn't easy.
And I TOTALLY APPRECIATE all the help from badbaud, CV slots, cowboygames, uniman, and the rest!
With that said... I'm done with this machine. I posted a WTS here. I hope someone close to me want's it and can figure out the last "oddities" in this slot.
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This was a very entertaining repair topic,
It looks to me that if a .05 guide was purchased from the beginning this could have been handled in a timely manner....
Where would a person find a Nickel guide? I just purchased a Bally Game Maker with similar problem and I believe the guide is a Quarter guide and would like to replace it.
Happy Holliday’s,
Mike
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Correct me if I am wrong but I think the nickle and quarter guides are the same size.
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I was wondering the same thing.... that's why I put up the Post...
Thanks
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Correct me if I am wrong but I think the nickle and quarter guides are the same size.
if the coin can bounce or go thur and miss a eye it will at times go into coin reverse I had some nickel games that a quarter wouldn't fit thur the coin guide , so I think there is a 5cent and a different one for 25 cents for ballys , we have made dollars ones work with a 25cent coin by add screws inside the guide to make coins stay to one side and past all eyes
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Once again thank you for the response, I will let you know how it works out over the weekend....
Happy Holliday’s,
Mike
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I agree with bestbuyslots. I think there's a different one for nickles. I had purchased a replacement guide and optics and the same thing happened. I just made a shim using an adhesive wire tie mount, cut to size. So far I've had no "reverse coin" errors at all.
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Happy New Year 2015
So after reviewing the configuration of my recent purchased Bally 19" LCD Game Maker I seen that it was configured without the COD, So I performed a RAM CLEAR and configured the game with the setting obtained in this post.
The coin in reverse message went away after the correct configuration, but the game would not recognize the coin when dropped in. Yes, the bill acceptor works but the coins would go straight in the hopper.
That's not right, so I pulled the coin comparator out and found a piece of cardboard holding the rake in to accept all coins...
Bottom line, the coin comparator was bad and the machine was configured incorrect....
NEW comparator and RAM CLEAR and all is well....
Thank you for all your time and wisdom...
Mike :dancing_2:
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THANKS mantaramian!
That really makes me think I have another bad CC as well. It only makes sense. And just because I got it "working" on ebay doesn't mean it really was!
I did have to jam my rake for it to work. I still get an occasional coin dropping to the tray but mine works fine otherwise.
What model CC is in your machine?
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Woohoo!! Good job!
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2 pics, something else to mention. I don't believe the Bad Comparitor is the correct one to use either
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Green wires to the coil means it is a DC comparator - grey and it is a AC comparator.
If the grey one works then the machine generates a AC voltage for the coin lockout engaged signal (ready to accept coins) or if a comparator is used it powers up the comparator to compare coins dropped to the one lodged between the sensor coils.