New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: yomusic on January 23, 2017, 03:10:37 AM
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Hello gamers,
I'm new to this forum. My name is Johan, 56 years old and I'm from The Netherlands (Europe)
I bought a IGT Triple Play S-plus slotmachine that isn't working. The former owner used 220 volts on this machine.
All the fuses are blown because it's a 120 volt machine.
I have a few questions about the jackpot.
I've examine the power supply and it has two connections. Have these connections different input of voltage ?
After measuring the output both connections give 220 volts.
Below some pictures of the slotmachine:
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv152%2Fnypd911%2FTriple%2520play1.jpg&hash=4c5ccf224187dabbe3087509cdc5a18f6059df9b) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/nypd911/media/Triple%20play1.jpg.html)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv152%2Fnypd911%2FTriple%2520play2.jpg&hash=924a514a9f55dd160a4e695ca6b3ae27c7c51d73)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv152%2Fnypd911%2F20170122_151146.jpg&hash=1342a0bf70d36fafa8ffda4b46ce679bf7d06f14)
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Does your machine have a large power transformer in the lower cabinet area? If so, that is often where the wiring changes are made so the machine can operate from 120 volts or from 220 volts. As far as I know IGT made their slot machines so they can be operated from 120 volts or from 220 volts, just need to make a few changes to some wiring.
Where on the power supply are you measuring 220 volts? If you are getting 220 volts at the white electrical outlet on the side of the power supply then that makes me think the machine is already wired for 220 volt operation, are you sure it is setup for 120 volts? Maybe something else is causing the fuses to blow or they are the wrong size?
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inside the power supply module you have pictured has all the terminal blocks where the conversion takes place. by moving the one wire (I believe it is purple or violet will change the operation from one condition to another, that is 120 to 220 . see the diagram, the plug on the side goes to the mother board, it provides the a/c voltages to run the game. all the plugs in the back provide 120 vac to run the fluorescent lamps and ballasts and the one connector is the power on/off switch loop.
Jim
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I have the big supply below in the cabinet area, the one that's pictured. I measure 220 volts on both connections. The ballasts and hopper read 120 volts. Maybe I have to disconnect the ballasts. The fluorescent burn for less than a second, then the fuse on the bottom from the supply blows away.
The fuses are the right size.
At this moment I really don't know what to do.
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what voltage are you using for the machine? if your home is 120vac then it has to be set up for 120vac, if your home is 220 volt then the machine has to be set up for 220 vac. tell us what voltage your home uses and we can tell you how to set the terminal blocks which are located inside that power supply, take out the one screw and remove the cover and see how it is wired! compare it to the drawing .
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I use 220 volts. I made a picture of the wiring in the supply.
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv152%2Fnypd911%2Ftriple%2520play3_2.jpg&hash=54656a91cbb5c4a07f14d277368d6f0aff29c384)
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It's working :applause: :dancing_2: I'm one step further. I put wire 3 to 4. It's attach wire 5 now.
The machine comes up with code 61. I've seen enough post about that code, so this is my next challenge to figure out.
Thanks for the help.
Johan :thank_you:
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find out where your test button is located and press it for a few seconds and see what happens, usually located near the on/off switch.
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Hey Jim,
First I get code 61. After pressing the reset button a small sound came out the speaker and the code changed in 61-1. I repeated this a few time but it still came up with code 61-1. And the candle lights are blinking.
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close the door completely, latch down, now turn the jackpot reset key (located outside on the side where the handle is) one time, program should load, get maiden spin.
on the home page, there is a section on the left side of the page, RICK's FAQ , alot of good info for exactly what you are doing
Jim
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Thanks for your time Jim. I'm on a hold right now. I don't have the reset key. I must order or find them on eBay or something like that.
Do I need the clear chip too, or is the reset key okay ?
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depending on you future needs, you should have a clear chip and a set chip, if you ever clear the machine (61 loop) you will need the set chip to turn on the bill validator. for your immediate need you could remove the key switch and extend the wires outside and hook the wires up to a push button switch, the switch is normally open, and the machine looks for it to close one time to perform the function, then it remains open. this will tell you if the game will load. that key operated switch was for casino security purposes.
Jim
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Most machines use what is commonly called a "2341" reset key, they are available at various prices, here are some examples:
http://www.spininc.com/01465-0 (http://www.spininc.com/01465-0)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Attendant-reset-keys-2341-/121746934761?hash=item1c58aecbe9:g:H0UAAOSwHnFVu6z- (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Attendant-reset-keys-2341-/121746934761?hash=item1c58aecbe9:g:H0UAAOSwHnFVu6z-)
You can also replace the entire reset keyswitch with a new one if you need to for some reason, it is pretty easy. Just one nut inside that holds it in place and 2 wires that slip on.
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Thanks again for the reply. I removed the attendant lock, powered up the machine and hook the wires up from the outside. Code 61 disappeared. The machine comes up now with all kind of codes. I saw the reels turning. The "coins played" digit blinks now between o and 1. The left digits "winner paid" and "credits" are on zero. The candle light is also blinking.
The reels make a lot of noise.
Johan
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Just to make sure.....
When you say you "hooked the wires up outside" you don't mean they are connected to each other all the time? The wires should normally be disconnected from each other, they should only connect momentarily when the reset switch (attendant switch) is turned. When it is released it springs back to the normal position to disconnect the wires. If you have temporarily connected the wires to an on-off switch make sure the switch is set to off except when you want to do a reset.
On powerup the reels should spin for a few seconds, then they stop. Are the reels spinning all the time? When they spin is it a smooth spin or jerky? Is the reel noise all the time or only when the reels are turning? Need clear explanation of what you are seeing.
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I have uploaded a small video on Youtube when starting up the slotmachine.
Hope this will clear a bit of the following problems I have with it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku1f1snt2Ew&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku1f1snt2Ew&feature=youtu.be)
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You're skipping a step. Do the following in order:
- Turn the machine on. Observe 61 is displayed.
- Press and hold the white Self Test button next to the power switch until the machine "dings" and the 61 becomes 61-1.
- Close and fully latch the door.
- Now simulate turning the jackpot reset key by briefly touching the wires from the keyswitch together once, then separate them.
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You're skipping a step. Do the following in order:
- Turn the machine on. Observe 61 is displayed.
- Press and hold the white Self Test button next to the power switch until the machine "dings" and the 61 becomes 61-1.
- Close and fully latch the door.
- Now simulate turning the jackpot reset key by briefly touching the wires from the keyswitch together once, then separate them.
I've done that before but it won't work then. After the "dings" the reset key will not reset the machine. It doesn't do anything.
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Perhaps the 2 wires that go to the reset switch are disconnected at the other end, or broken inside the wire's insulation? Inspect those 2 wires carefully, follow them back to the other ends of each wire. What color are the reset wires in your machine?
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The wires are light blue and yellow/green. But why does the reset work on code 61 and not on 61-1 (see my video)[size=78%] ? And in the area of the reset key is hanging a lose wire (blue/green)[/size]
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Watched you video, here's what's going on! when you closed the door and put the latch down ,then touched the wires together, you went into the book keeping mode, depending on which SP chip you have it usually will take 7 more times of touching the wires together or some SP's require 12 times. anyway, start over, power down the machine. now power up, door open, display should have a 61, press the white test button next to the on/off switch, this should produce a 61_1, now close and latch the door and now touch the wires together, the display should go blank and hopefully load the program, if you get a 61 on the machine then you are in the 61 loop. try this and see what happens.
Jim
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You're skipping a step. Do the following in order:
- Turn the machine on. Observe 61 is displayed.
- Press and hold the white Self Test button next to the power switch until the machine "dings" and the 61 becomes 61-1.
- Close and fully latch the door.
- Now simulate turning the jackpot reset key by briefly touching the wires from the keyswitch together once, then separate them.
I've done that before but it won't work then. After the "dings" the reset key will not reset the machine. It doesn't do anything.
If the 61-1 doesn't change, the machine isn't seeing the door as closed. Make sure that the bill validator stacker door ("cash can door") is closed and latched (if equipped), and make sure the main door is closed and the latch is all the way down.
If it still won't advance past 61-1, then your door optics may be bad.
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Perhaps the 2 wires that go to the reset switch are disconnected at the other end, or broken inside the wire's insulation? Inspect those 2 wires carefully, follow them back to the other ends of each wire. What color are the reset wires in your machine?
We know his jackpot reset wires are working, as it gets him into bookkeeping data if he touches the wires (turns the keyswitch) when the machine is first turned on.
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I'm one step further. The machine starts up with a zero in "coins played"
The problem was in the cash can door. It didn't close. The micro switch was open. Problem solved with some tape because the lock is damaged.
But now I have the following problem. It won't accept coins. The green led in the coin comparitor won't light up.
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The various security switches on machines can be a pain. For home use many people remove the 2 wires going to a security switch and connect the wires to each other with a plastic wire nut. The voltage on the wires is low and safe if you happen to touch it, but the bare wires should not touch metal chassis ground. Taping it may work also, as long as the tape doesn't come loose over time when it gets warm.
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The various security switches on machines can be a pain. For home use many people remove the 2 wires going to a security switch and connect the wires to each other with a plastic wire nut. The voltage on the wires is low and safe if you happen to touch it, but the bare wires should not touch metal chassis ground. Taping it may work also, as long as the tape doesn't come loose over time when it gets warm.
That is a good solution. :applause:
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...But now I have the following problem. It won't accept coins. The green led in the coin comparitor won't light up.
Not sure but I think if you have the machine's front door open the green led on cc won't come on, you can't use that as a troubleshooting help. Does your cc have the sample coin installed correctly? Coin needs to be in the groove or slot on left side of coin holder and the sliding cover needs to be as far left as possible, covering most of the sample coin.
Do the coins just drop straight thru to the coin tray on front of machine? If you press the white pseudo coin button does the machine give a credit?
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We know his jackpot reset wires are working, as it gets him into bookkeeping data if he touches the wires (turns the keyswitch) when the machine is first turned on.
The wires are light blue and yellow/green. But why does the reset work on code 61 and not on 61-1 (see my video)? And in the area of the reset key is hanging a lose wire (blue/green)
Yes, that didn't register with me for some reason, the reset switch wires must be ok if the machine is sometimes responding to them.
The other loose wire may be for another function, a photo might help to identify it.
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The light on the comparator only lights with the door closed. Set your phone on video and close the door to check. Or remove the coin tray and use a mirror to see. You could have a bad MPU. I have one that is marked "reset key won't work" I remember fooling around with it. Several other boards worked fine just not that one. Not even clearing it helped.
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But now I have the following problem. It won't accept coins. The green led in the coin comparitor won't light up.
As mentioned above already, you'll pretty much never see that LED lit up, as it only lights up when the machine is ready to accept a coin, and it isn't ready to accept a coin when the front door is open!
- Make sure that the sample coin is seated properly in the Coin Comparator.
- If the Insert Coin lamp is lit and it seems like the machine should be ready to accept a coin, but coins are rejected back to the tray, you'll want to try adjusting the sensitivity on the Coin Comparator so that it is least likely to reject coins:
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi49.tinypic.com%2F10oobc7.jpg&hash=ace0ee766da08d6fab3304c5881b560be9ce22ea)
Using a tiny screwdriver, adjust that counter-clockwise (away from the +) to make the comparator less sensitive -- that will have the comparator reject fewer coins. Turn the dial all the way back and forth a few times to make sure it's making a good contact, ending up dialing it away from the plus, then see if your acceptance improves.
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Maybe I have to try other coins. It's made for $ 0,25 cents. Well that's what being written on the comparison holder. I saw a small button on one of the connectors of the comparisor. When I push it, I can play with the door open. Must be some kind of testmode ?
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Maybe I have to try other coins. It's made for $ 0,25 cents. Well that's what being written on the comparison holder. I saw a small button on one of the connectors of the comparison. When I push it, I can play with the door open. Must be some kind of testmode ?
That little button that gives you a credit when you push it with the door open is called the "pseudo coin" button and you are right, it is meant for testing. If you press it and get a credit on the machine and can then play a spin that means a lot of things are working, that helps by eliminating a lot of possible sources off the problem.
Can you post a photo of your coin comparitor as it is mounted to the inside of the door?
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I noticed that. :applause: Now I know my machine is almost working as it should be. But when I have a price the speaker sound a "ding" multiple times. And it stops when I use the reset key. No credits are on my meter.
Below a picture of the comparitor. It's a model # CC-160, 24VAC. I use a 0,02 cents euro coin.
Thanks again for the help. I like this forum :drool04:
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv152%2Fnypd911%2FTriple%2520play%25205_2.jpg&hash=50f7f3417833d013b85cfaa05cbdc555146be397)
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From your photo it looks like you do not have the sample coin installed properly in the coin comparitor. The round sliding cover that has the arrow on it should slide to the left to cover most of the coin. That sliding cover is part of the sensor for the coin comparitor, must be over the sample coin. The sliding cover is spring-loaded, you can move it to the right to remove or install a sample coin, but the cover should move back to the left fully so it covers as much of the sample coin as possible. The spring that holds the cover to the left may be missing or disconnected, it is located on the back of the coin comparitor.
The left edge of the sample coin should fit into a groove on that side of the holder for the sample coin. This groove helps holds the coin so that it is stable and is as close to the sliding sensor as possible for best results. Then the sensor/cover slides to the left as far as possible. If your sample coin is thicker than average you may need to loosen the screw in the sliding cover a little so it will move into position over the sample coin.
Notice in the example photos below how the round sliding cover is moved to the left to cover the coin behind it as much as possible:
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Here is what the spring looks like on the back of the coin comparitor. Your model might be slightly different but there should be a spring on there.
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... But when I have a price the speaker sound a "ding" multiple times. And it stops when I use the reset key. No credits are on my meter......
No quite understanding this statement. If you mean when you have a winning spin you get some ding sounds that is normal operation. If you mean the ding happens when you get a credit by inserting a coin or pressing the pseudo coin button that is also normal. If you have a large win then the machine may be set for a "handpay" event, like a jackpot event. When that happens you will hear a number of dings and the reset keyswitch must be turned, it is what they do in casino after paying you the jackpot to resume play. This is done because the hopper can only hold a certain number of coins, some jackpots are too large for hopper to completely pay. This payout level where a handpay occurs is one of the settings that you can configure as you wish.
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I solved the problem with the coin comparitor. Thanks for the advice. The coin was indeed placed wrong. I also removed the weight in the coin comparitor. The coins jammed on that. Now they fall into the hopper.
But I still see no led light burning on the comparitor. And what is the chrome solenoid on the back on the comparitor with they 2 grey wires for ?
And if I win for instance 2 or 5 credits I don't get them on my winner paid window. In stead of that I have to use the reset key to quit the sound that comes when you hit the jackpot.
Hope you know what I all mean with my following questions. :thank_you:
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...But I still see no led light burning on the comparitor. And what is the chrome solenoid on the back on the comparitor with they 2 grey wires for ?
The led on the coin comparitor will not come on while the door is open. The led is probably for testing purposes on the repair bench or is for some other application. You would have to be inside the machine with the door closed to see the led lit.
The little round chrome weight (called a thumbscrew weight) is designed for a certain weight of coin, you are probably using a different coin than what it was for. It is ok to remove it. The purpose of the thumbscrew weight is casino security, to prevent a player from inserting coins too fast and getting extra playing credits. The weight is attached to a lever that moves into position and slows down the inserted coin no matter how fast you insert the coin.
The solenoid on the back of the comparitor controls a part called the "rake". That chrome you see is part of the rake. If the comparitor accepts the coin that a player inserts then the solenoid pulls the rake out of the way so the coin will pass to the coin optics assembly below the comparitor and then the coin goes to the hopper. But if the player inserts a coin that the comparitor does not accept the rake stays in the way, causes the inserted coin to go to a different path and it is returned to the player coin tray on front of machine.
Be sure you have adjusted the comparitor sensitivity adjustment all the way CCW as mentioned earlier. That will eliminate having some coins rejected when you are playing.
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.....And if I win for instance 2 or 5 credits I don't get them on my winner paid window. In stead of that I have to use the reset key to quit the sound that comes when you hit the jackpot.
I think you have a setting wrong on your machine. If the hopper setting or credit limit setting or jackpot setting is wrong then the machine is immediately going into jackpot mode and waits for a casino person to come by to pay you. Do you have any coins in the hopper? Does your "CashOut" button on the front of the machine let you change to credit play (so that any winnings accumulate as credits on the machine instead of immediately being paid)?
There is a white TEST button inside the machine, usually near the power switch. Pressing this TEST button will let you step thru different menu choices and you can enable or disable things. I don't know how to tell you which setting to change but someone else here will be able to.
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If I remember right that 731 uses the dipswitches on the MPU. There is a label that explains what turning on/off the dip does.
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.....And if I win for instance 2 or 5 credits I don't get them on my winner paid window. In stead of that I have to use the reset key to quit the sound that comes when you hit the jackpot.
I think you have a setting wrong on your machine. If the hopper setting or credit limit setting or jackpot setting is wrong then the machine is immediately going into jackpot mode and waits for a casino person to come by to pay you. Do you have any coins in the hopper? Does your "CashOut" button on the front of the machine let you change to credit play (so that any winnings accumulate as credits on the machine instead of immediately being paid)?
There is a white TEST button inside the machine, usually near the power switch. Pressing this TEST button will let you step thru different menu choices and you can enable or disable things. I don't know how to tell you which setting to change but someone else here will be able to.
Inside the machine is a hopper. I filled it with the same coins (160 coins) I have attached in the comparator. I think the program chip is messed up.
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Inside the machine is a hopper. I filled it with the same coins (160 coins) I have attached in the comparator. I think the program chip is messed up.
Ok, that is good to have several coins in the hopper, it will probably hold many more than 160, it depends on the size of the coin but often you can put hundreds of coins if you wish, it will hold as many as it takes to fill it up to the "hopper full" probe that sticks into the side of the hopper on the front. But many people don't want so many coins in the hopper and they prefer to play by using credits on the machine. It is your choice.
You say your chip is "messed up" but I think you mean the preference settings or something else. If the eprom program chip was messed up or damaged the machine would not play. Maybe I misunderstood your statement. Some of the features or way your machine operates can be controlled by a dipswitch setting or by the settings available when you press the white TEST button.
Another NLG member just posted that you can check the dipswitch on your main circuit board (called the mpu board). There may be a label explaining the purpose of each dipswitch position, that may be a way to change how your machine operates so that it will not keep going into jackpot mode with every win.
Can you post a photo of your mpu board showing the dipswitch on it?
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It would be helpful if we know what eprom chips you have in your machine. Sometimes the label on the back of the chips will tell us that. But if you can follow these instructions (from another NLG member-thanks Dave!) this will tell us what software is in your machine:
When you have the credits cleared (zero credits on the machine), open the door and push the white test button (probably located on either the front or back of the power switch assembly) until a 4 shows in the coins played window. 2 sets of numbers with flash on the front display. One is the SP (game) chip. The other is the SS (reel) chip. Tell us what those numbers are.
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Interesting coin you are using, can you post a photo of it? What is your country location? Where did the machine come from, is there a casino nearby?
Thanks!
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So, if I understand all the posts up to now, your machine is operating as it should .EXCEPT FOR THE PAYOUT FROM THE HOPPER. so, every time you get a winning combo the machine locks up and you have to reset it using the jackpot reset key ( or in your case, touch two wires). you have to change some settings to do this. VERY SIMPLE, with the door open (this puts you in the service mode) press the white test button near the on/off switch, this will take you into the machine diagnostic mode, in this mode, you can test every function of this machine. press the button until you see a 0 in the coin played window, and a 5_0 or a 5_1 or a 5_2 in the winners paid window. the 5 indicates the setting feature, the 0-1-2 indicate the actual setting of that feature, your PSR or SP chip will define each. USUALLY A "0" SETTING WILL PUT ALL WINS ON THE CREDIT METER. use the spin reels button to change this setting. once set, continue pressing the white button until you see a 7 in the coins payed window and some numbers will appear in the winners paid window, one of them should be flashing, use the jackpot key switch to move the flashing number over to the fourth position, now use the spin reels button to advance that number, you want this to be 1000, now press the white button, a different set of numbers may appear in the winner paid window, set this to 1000, press white button again, now a 8 in the coin played window and a value in the winner paid, set this to a 1000. after all is set close and latch the door .the new settings should be set. now play the game and verify that the game is operating as you want.
hope this helps
Jim
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I use a 5 euro cent (see pic)
It's to small for the hopper to pay out. The knife is also a little bit damaged. So there are two things to do: use bigger coins and renew the hopper knife.
For the rest the machine is doing well :applause: Thanks for all the help I get.
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv152%2Fnypd911%2F5eurocent.jpg&hash=57bd9b0e19303b969f9c36a334fb3a974acc1f03)
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If your 5 euro. is close in size to US 5 cent or 10 cent, you can change parts in the hopper to make it work. Must be very close or a hair smaller or hair larger. We are able to use .984 tokens in place of our 25 cent