**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines > Universal Reel/Video Games
Universal slot port test
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UNIMAN:
Thanks for sharing info, very helpful.

You have removed the mpu and inspected, corrected issues. Great.

I think you should remove the mpu cage with edge connectors and inspect wiring behind edge connectors. Especially after seeing that dirty hopper.
There could be corrosion or screws, etc. lodged back there. See in the manual the test switch wire is #10 on the bottom edge connector, a brown wire.
The fact that the test button is jumping ahead so much (press 4 times get test 7) is strange. Could be mpu, could be wiring issue. This test switch wire is the tenth wire from the top of the edge connector on the right, and next to it on the left is the handle release optic wire.

Side note;
The eprom code is observed at every startup with a polarity check. If even one bit is corrupted you get an error at startup. So eprom code should be fine.


PCDOG:
THIS IS A LONG REPLY, BUT GOOD NEWS. PLEASE READ ON.
« Reply #35 on: Today at 10:41:39 AM »
    Quote
Thanks for sharing info, very helpful.
You have removed the mpu and inspected, corrected issues. Great.
I think you should remove the mpu cage with edge connectors and inspect wiring behind edge connectors. Especially after seeing that dirty hopper.
1. On of the first things I did earlier was to remove the mpu cage. Also removed the connector screws to get a better view. Look at all the wiring and connectors and ALL OK. No foreign  junk or stuff floating around.

There could be corrosion or screws, etc. lodged back there. See in the manual the test switch wire is #10 on the bottom edge connector, a brown wire.
2. Wire checks OK

The fact that the test button is jumping ahead so much (press 4 times get test 7) is strange. Could be mpu, could be wiring issue. This test switch wire is the tenth wire from the top of the edge connector on the right, and next to it on the left is the handle release optic wire.
3. On my machine I need to press the test button 4 times then press the test to #7 to manually run the test for each code. Pressing test five time results in tilt turning on.
Side note;
The eprom code is observed at every startup with a polarity check. If even one bit is corrupted you get an error at startup. So eprom code should be fine.

UPDATE on new findings 02-20-2024
1. With the door open and turning the key to lock and unlock, there is no mechanism that would turn the micro switch on or off.   Also there is no mechanical lever or arm on the cabinet to activate the switch when closing the door.
IT appears that the door locking arm may have been altered. If not then there should something to activate the door switch when the door is closed. Found a picture of a similar door latching system but not for my machine. I can figure out how to fabricate on. “”Need to know what position the switch arm need to be in with the door unlocked and in the open position.””
2. I believe I solved the weird machine problems. When running test and partially closing the door strange things were happening. Speaker puzzling noise stopped (no big deal), then also tilt light came on, coin mech opening and closing the coin latch. With door open I flexed the wires near the 36 pin Molex plug. Separated the plugs and cleaned with contact cleaner and small brush. No change. After carefully looking and the female plug allot are spread open to the point they will not make a tight fit with the male pins. Tried to close the female pins but still have intermittent problems. Think I can buy just the male-female pins and rewire the Molex plugs. I have the tools for removing and crimping the pins.
“Do you have another ideas?”

Look at the picture for Coin Comparitor and  the DOOR LOCK ASSEMBLY
On a positive note I did get the machine to work twice.
NOTE I will be away and will be back Friday night 02-23-24  :thank_you:
UNIMAN:
Good to hear your getting somewhere. That big plug can have the female and/or male ends get pushed down too. Have seen that.

Keep us updated.
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