New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Amechanic on April 26, 2014, 07:45:50 PM
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Well I put a piece of paper under the wiper board fingers and checked for a short.. I didn't find any thing :Scratch-Head:.. I took the two mounting screw loose that hold the wiper board in place and removed it.. I didn't find any shorted wire or bad solder connections? The only thing I've been able too find so far was that my payout relays contacts were not opening up very much. So I took it totally apart and straightened and adjusted the contacts and replaced the plastic piece that opens and closes the contacts.. It had two slots that were worn really bad (see pic).. After putting it back together, this has seemed to have helped.. I'm guessing that this relays was slow opening the contacts every once and a while.. That's relays contacts air gaps were almost non-existent and not opening the contacts.. Now it seems to be working as it should.. I'll play it again tomorrow to see if this problem comes back..
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Well this problem seems to be solved.. Fixing the payout relay on the hopper has stopped the over paying issue.. I did notice one other thing while bench testing this hopper. On some payouts, usually longer then 10 coins, I would be short on coins. I noticed that the nickels would get counted, but instead of being ejected out to the coin tray, they were popping back into the hopper bowl.. I made and installed a coin guard to fix this problem. It extends in front of the roller that counts the coin, down to the hoppers knife. It is rounded on the on end to clear the coin deflector movement.. So far no coin jams or any more shortages..
Thanks Gary
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Looks like a good fix. might have been fixed with a new knife or adjusted one. But I like the new idea of the shield ... great fix.
Dave
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Nice job Amechanic, looks pretty clean.
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Looks like a good fix. might have been fixed with a new knife or adjusted one. But I like the new idea of the shield ... great fix.
Dave
The knife was checked and adjusted. Not that easy to just find a new one. This seemed to be the easiest and quickest fix. I've played it all day without any problems or coins jams on my new guard. So nice to constantly get 10 coins paid in jackpots again. That guard comes from years of being a Bowling Center Mechanic. Learning to fix the machines on the fly with what parts you had on hand in a pinch till you could get the right parts.
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OldReno would like this fix... where has he been? MIA?
Dave
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OldReno would like this fix... where has he been? MIA?
Dave
He's here.. Changed his name. He posted just a few messages back.. He's now DonnerPartyofate..
Gary
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Ok ... seen the posts ... like that....YUMMY .... toothpick anyone?
Dave
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Hey, sorry, originally I read I could not log in to the new site with my old name, so I thought I'd use the name I use on the peak oil doomer boards. (Soon it'll be DonnerPartyofSeven...your table is ready.)
Anyway, it's still me...and I'm still around.
I see that in your first pic (top of page) the switch actuator is made of plastic. The reason I don't like plastic, and prefer the old fiber actuators is that they do not get hot and melt like the plastics do. If you look at the pic, you can see that the lower right hand hole is starting to spread out. This is from the heat generated during long payouts methinks, and folks should always check their payout relay stacks to see if the switches have gone out of adjustment due to them sticking to the melted plastic. This can cause all sorts of problems from no pays to runaways. Just one of those things you should get used to checking.
XOXOXO
DP8 (oldReno)
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Hey, sorry, originally I read I could not log in to the new site with my old name, so I thought I'd use the name I use on the peak oil doomer boards. (Soon it'll be DonnerPartyofSeven...your table is ready.)
Anyway, it's still me...and I'm still around.
I see that in your first pic (top of page) the switch actuator is made of plastic. The reason I don't like plastic, and prefer the old fiber actuators is that they do not get hot and melt like the plastics do. If you look at the pic, you can see that the lower right hand hole is starting to spread out. This is from the heat generated during long payouts methinks, and folks should always check their payout relay stacks to see if the switches have gone out of adjustment due to them sticking to the melted plastic. This can cause all sorts of problems from no pays to runaways. Just one of those things you should get used to checking.
XOXOXO
DP8 (oldReno)
One of the first things I do is check the contacts on the switches when I get a new machine. These were working but with a min travel. It wasn't till the over pays started did I notice the worn actuator. I had a couple of fiber ones but none the correct size for this stack, but I did get lucky a find one in plastic. The machines been operating great since the repair and mod of the new coin guard..
Thanks Gary
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Great thread and a I am glad that the fix was made. I LOVE that invention. I am glad that the EM forum still has some life left in it after the switch.
Ra
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ME :applause: TOO :cool_thumb_up:
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Nicely done Gary, and you never got back to me with your address..did you score what you needed? also I have a bunch of new knifes and plenty of old fiber actuators..im sure that plastic one will run a good long time unless your machines really loose..
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Nicely done Gary, and you never got back to me with your address..did you score what you needed? also I have a bunch of new knifes and plenty of old fiber actuators..im sure that plastic one will run a good long time unless your machines really loose..
I found 1 of the 30 female beau plugs, but ended up not having to change out the whole plug in my Metalist. I figured out how to swap out the badly bent female connector and get one back in straight. I found out that my source for plugs has dried up.
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Send me your address you stubborn bastard! ill send you some goodies :banghead:
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Send me your address you stubborn bastard! ill send you some goodies :banghead:
PM Sent......
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Hey, sorry, originally I read I could not log in to the new site with my old name, so I thought I'd use the name I use on the peak oil doomer boards. (Soon it'll be DonnerPartyofSeven...your table is ready.)
Anyway, it's still me...and I'm still around.
I see that in your first pic (top of page) the switch actuator is made of plastic. The reason I don't like plastic, and prefer the old fiber actuators is that they do not get hot and melt like the plastics do. If you look at the pic, you can see that the lower right hand hole is starting to spread out. This is from the heat generated during long payouts methinks, and folks should always check their payout relay stacks to see if the switches have gone out of adjustment due to them sticking to the melted plastic. This can cause all sorts of problems from no pays to runaways. Just one of those things you should get used to checking.
XOXOXO
DP8 (oldReno)
I just replaced my JP Hopper switch assembly due to a broken blade on a switch and had a plastic controller assembly with all switches in place and an extra one that I found I needed to get my 783 working properly, Noticed the same melted hole on mine and also saw it allowed less movement with this type of assembly. I made sure to run wires to 2 sets of switches and considered a third set to keep the melting from happening. Also the movement is very limited on the plastic part, I made sure to have all switches push up on the piastic to make sure it will allow for max movement. Then noticed that it will cause a problem moving downward to make good contacts when adjusted properly it will tend to not allow the uppers to fully break contact before closing on the bottom leaf. I saw that the slot in the plastic piece was not large enough to allow the solenoid to completely draw the arm down to the magnet, restricting the movement of the switches. I took it apart and I filed off the bottom of the plastic where it touches onto the metal bottom plate, there is a round headed rivet that it hits also.I just made the slot larger allowing it move fully downward giving enough room to make good strong contacts on all switches. This should reduce the possibility of resistance from poor contacts and keep those leafs from getting hot.. (My switch leafs where shorter on the Bakelite moved assembly so I couldn't just change out the broken leaf without modifying it to fit.) :Scratch-Head:
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Send me your address you stubborn bastard! ill send you some goodies :banghead:
Love it... :24: :24: :24:
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I think the old style bakelites are better, but there sure are a lot more of the plastic ones around..one little trick I learned on these was to take a small needle file(flat) and dress the top of the coil and the the underside of the hold-down plate..just enough to make the plate sit flat on both of the ears of the coil..I take the spring off and check or change it too..weak springs will slow the contacts breaking, and that's what causes the burn marks and distorted plastic slits...a que-tip and some grease/Vaseline on the pivot points will quiet a buzzing coil sometimes.
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Send me your address you stubborn bastard! ill send you some goodies :banghead:
Love it... :24: :24: :24:
I resemble this remark and. :agreepost:
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I think the old style bakelites are better, but there sure are a lot more of the plastic ones around..one little trick I learned on these was to take a small needle file(flat) and dress the top of the coil and the the underside of the hold-down plate..just enough to make the plate sit flat on both of the ears of the coil..I take the spring off and check or change it too..weak springs will slow the contacts breaking, and that's what causes the burn marks and distorted plastic slits...a que-tip and some grease/Vaseline on the pivot points will quiet a buzzing coil sometimes.
:I_agree_1:
I have been using Vaseline on old mechanical slots for years, doesn't harden like most white lithium grease does .... I agree with that fully.
Dave F
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Zinda,
sounds like a good fix. Is it working ok?
Adjusting switches is a fine art, and always remember to look for the 'push' when they make contact.
I usually try to adjust the static blades (smaller ones) first, and then if that doesnt' work will adjust the actuators, however when you do that you have to readjust the static blades.
It's all good.
I'd spend more time here folks, but am working hard on some solar stuff right now. It'll be over in a week or so.... Thanks.
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Zinda,
sounds like a good fix. Is it working ok?
Adjusting switches is a fine art, and always remember to look for the 'push' when they make contact.
I usually try to adjust the static blades (smaller ones) first, and then if that doesnt' work will adjust the actuators, however when you do that you have to readjust the static blades.
It's all good.
I'd spend more time here folks, but am working hard on some solar stuff right now. It'll be over in a week or so.... Thanks.
Still working perfectly, haven't had to do anything since I rebuilt the sir prize unit. Best machine I own now. As long as you don't overload any contacts those plastic will work just as good, most don't think about the current draw and the heat causing the problems.
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When we would test machines before putting them on the floor, we would check all pays.
Of course, after some time of checking pays, the payout relay and assembly gets quite hot.
So, we would give it a rest from time to time, and IMHO this helped keep the plastic from melting by hot contacts.
And then we found faster ways to check pays, e.g. pulling out hopper before reel spin (and pay setup) so it doesn't reset every time.
That way progressively higher pays will check out fine, without having to start from zero everytime.
E.G., check a 100 pay, then a 200 pay. If you pull hopper, you only need another 100 coins to check, not 200.
Hope that makes sense?
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When we would test machines before putting them on the floor, we would check all pays.
Of course, after some time of checking pays, the payout relay and assembly gets quite hot.
So, we would give it a rest from time to time, and IMHO this helped keep the plastic from melting by hot contacts.
And then we found faster ways to check pays, e.g. pulling out hopper before reel spin (and pay setup) so it doesn't reset every time.
That way progressively higher pays will check out fine, without having to start from zero everytime.
E.G., check a 100 pay, then a 200 pay. If you pull hopper, you only need another 100 coins to check, not 200.
Hope that makes sense?
Makes good sense, how many 200 coin pays are going to happen in regular play anyway, check it 2 times and if it isn't hot it should be good to go. I just held the payout switch down and let it spit out coins till the hopper was empty, then temped the contact with the hopper removed from the machine right after testing. Anything less than 150F should be OK. Mine are about ambient +10 so that's just about 150F here in Phoenix!