New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: mbrund on December 26, 2017, 01:08:59 PM
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I purchased a IGT S Plus, Triple Play. This machine was taken out of service over 20 years ago and sat in a storage warehouse before I purchased from the gentalman that bought it 20 years ago. When I got it, it had the 12 error. So I replaced the battery. Then got the 61 error and went through the clear process. And got it initialize but coins would stick in the coin validator. I did some reading and saw a picture of a coin inserted in the back side of the coin validator and when I checked mine it was missing, so I inserted a quarter and I was finally able to get the machine to play.
Now onto the next problem, the bill validator would not initialize or accept bills. I read through the forms and all, checked to make sure it was enabled 9_1 which it was. I have not been able to find much info on bill validator wiring and circuit boards. This is a DBV-145-SS bill validator. So I traced the wires and found it goes through two boards mounted to the side of the bill validator cage. One of these boards appears to be a power supply. When I removed the board from the cage, a capacitor was laying lose. It appears to never have been properly soldered to the circuit board, the cap did not pop like many electrolytic caps tend to do, it just came lose from the board. I am going to try and repair it, but the real question is if I can't repair it easily is it worth replacing or should I just upgrade to the WBA bill validator? Or should I just go coinless and be done with it?
(https://hgdhpq.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mUg3V66arEwr9DoHchI7Z48pLzybNBoTQgQi6UYyhEQyzUZiOa5HJmkXIDnp9mPSLfVmrQWmZExvwPTky7a9HIDScRnVlePl7QoZBGO4dZ3RyjEqs_wPVRCTH98fcTOJuc2uQbSe-GrkjtLlJ4CZIjwcoA5cftEOz9cocjnvv6nH0IptUIGJ1AVC2ptMGrJbe2wZXMoXfMhuuhOKBaRoxfA?width=2988&height=5312&cropmode=none)
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Welcome to NLG. Sounds like you are doing a great job right off the bat. The B/V in the S+ can be upgraded if you want. Our vendors here carry entire upgrade kits if you want to go that way. Your Triple Play machine is a Type 0 game. There is a game chip, SP1137 that can set your machine up to give up to 99 credits for each quarter put in. I have this in one of mine and a B/V too. I really don't use the validator but use the multiple credits all the time. Just another thought. I'm sure one of the vendors will jump in and tell you what they have.
Dave
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The loose capacitor from the BV power supply might have come loose due to fractured or "cold" solder joints on its leads on the backside of the board. You could try soldering it or a new capacitor back in place. Be sure to install the cap correctly, it is polarized (has + and - leads).
But the DBV-145 is an older model of bill validator, the software inside it that recognizes the inserted paper bill is out of date and will now only work with the $1 bill. All US paper money except the $1 have been updated to a new design for several years. So, as far as I know there isn't a software update for your DBV-145 that will make it able to accept anything currently in circulation (other than $1 bill). The DBV-200 bill validator is a direct replacement for the DBV-145 and will accept many/most of the bills we have in circulation now. Someone here on NLG might have a replacement DBV-200 for you. Or you can remove the DBV validator hardware and install a more modern bill validator (WBA and others) like Shaggy mentioned. This will let you use any US bill.
On the S+ machine there is a bill validator power supply mounted in the machine just to the left of the bill validator. The power supplies used for the DBV-145 are typically not strong enough to operate a DBV-200 reliably. So if you upgrade your machine to a DBV-200 you should replace the BV power supply also. The stronger power supplies can be easily recognized, they have cooling slots cut into the black cover.
You can check prices on a working DBV-200 and its IGT S+ power supply, compare that to getting a WBA setup. The WBA setup will probably cost more but will give you the flexibility to use any US paper money, if that is important to you. The DBV-200 and power supply are easy to install and you'd be able to use enough bills ($20, $10, $5, maybe others) that would work fine for home play.
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I re-soldered the CAP back on in the proper polarity and then replaced the fuse. But the fuse blew again. So there is a larger issue looming somewhere either in the bill validator power supply still has a bad component or in the bill validator mechanism itself is causing it to blow. So I will look at the other option available (update the bill validator to the later model that accepts the modern bills, OR increase the credit per coin dropped. OR move to a coinless solution with a button on the side of the machine).
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I re-soldered the CAP back on in the proper polarity and then replaced the fuse. But the fuse blew again. So there is a larger issue looming somewhere either in the bill validator power supply still has a bad component or in the bill validator mechanism itself is causing it to blow. So I will look at the other option available (update the bill validator to the later model that accepts the modern bills, OR increase the credit per coin dropped. OR move to a coinless solution with a button on the side of the machine).
yes, that old power supply may have a problem. But even if it worked I think you'd get tired of only being able to insert $1 into the machine, most people want to insert a $20 and get several credits, then play without having to stop after every spin to insert more money. That's why upgrading to a DBV-200 or a WBA is a better solution.
Is your machine already setup to accept coins? Is there a coin entry head so that coins can be inserted? If not there may be a place to install one on the button deck, covered by a blanking panel. Then there needs to be a coin acceptor on the inside of the main door. Post a photo of the inside of your main door if you have questions. Many people like playing by using coins, but again it can get old having to continually insert coins after every spin. With coin play you won't be able to insert a bunch of coins and then play for awhile. The machine will only accept coins for the next spin, no coins go to credits (except on certain machine setups with a particular SP chip installed).
What do you mean when you say "button on the side of the machine"??
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Is your machine already setup to accept coins? Is there a coin entry head so that coins can be inserted? If not there may be a place to install one on the button deck, covered by a blanking panel. Then there needs to be a coin acceptor on the inside of the main door. Post a photo of the inside of your main door if you have questions. Many people like playing by using coins, but again it can get old having to continually insert coins after every spin. With coin play you won't be able to insert a bunch of coins and then play for awhile. The machine will only accept coins for the next spin, no coins go to credits (except on certain machine setups with a particular SP chip installed).
What do you mean when you say "button on the side of the machine"??
Yes it has a coin comparator and it works fine. I can insert quarters and it works as it should.
As for the button on the side of the machine statement. I saw a guy on eBay that sells a solder in button that allows you convert an S Plus machine into a coinless machine for $15
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Yes it has a coin comparator and it works fine. I can insert quarters and it works as it should.
As for the button on the side of the machine statement. I saw a guy on eBay that sells a solder in button that allows you convert an S Plus machine into a coinless machine: [url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/CONVERT-YOUR-IGT-S-PLUS-SLOT-MACHINE-TO-A-COIN-LESS-GAME-NO-MORE-COINS-NEEDED/112679192844?hash=item1a3c34090c:g:IycAAOSwPIhZ5d9w[/url] ([url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/CONVERT-YOUR-IGT-S-PLUS-SLOT-MACHINE-TO-A-COIN-LESS-GAME-NO-MORE-COINS-NEEDED/112679192844?hash=item1a3c34090c:g:IycAAOSwPIhZ5d9w[/url])
Since it works ok with coins you don't have to do anything to the bill validator if coin play only is fine. And you can use tokens in place of coins if you want to, just insert an example token into the coin comparitor in place of the real coin in there now.
The ebay button thing with the pushbutton on the side of machine is an added switch with a couple of wires that run inside the machine and attach to the coin optics test switch below your coin comparitor. Look just below your coin comparitor, there is a green circuit board called the coin optics (there are actually 2 boards, one in front of the other). Over on the left side of the green coin optic board is a small switch. This is the "pseudo" coin switch, it is used to put test credits onto the machine so you can play while the door is open. Once the door is closed the machine removes these test credits. So you have to mod the machine so that it thinks the door is always open. This is done by changing how the door open/closed sensor works.
This type of freeplay mod for S+ machines is covered in some of the past discussions. Here is one of them:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4574.msg24084#msg24084 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4574.msg24084#msg24084)
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Ok I was wondering if that is what the switch mod did. That sucks because it loses credits at power cycle or when the door is closed and locked. Trying to use it with the door closed and the door sensor enabled causes a 21 error (if I recall from my playing around last week). I found that out when I was testing it last week before I determined that the issue with the coin comparator was the fact that it was missing the quarter in the token slot at the back of the comparator.
So I guess I will keep an eye out for a newer DBV-200 and a new PSU, OR a WBA setup, OR the newer chip that allows it to add credits for each coin dropped that Shaggy talked about.
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Ok I was wondering if that is what the switch mod did. That sucks because it loses credits at power cycle or when the door is closed and locked. Trying to use it with the door closed and the door sensor enabled causes a 21 error (if I recall from my playing around last week). I found that out when I was testing it last week before I determined that the issue with the coin comparator was the fact that it was missing the quarter in the token slot at the back of the comparator.
So I guess I will keep an eye out for a newer DBV-200 and a new PSU, OR a WBA setup, OR the newer chip that allows it to add credits for each coin dropped that Shaggy talked about.
Well, the machine was designed and built for casino use, not an arcade game. So it has certain security safeguards. If you could open the door and punch in a bunch of credits, then close the door and play that means someone working at the casino would do that for their buddy. Jail time commeth.
But defeating the door open/close sensor can be done a couple of ways and that's discussed here on past message threads. If your machine uses a white "Cherry switch" to sense when the door is open it is pretty simple to mod. If your machine uses optic sensors there is one optic on the edge of the door and another optic on the cabinet frame that lines up with the door optic when it is closed & latched. For that a different method is needed.
That $15 ebay method sounds like a lowcost way to add freeplay.
The DBV-200 SS model heads are not hard to find. That and a replacement DBV power supply might be a good low-cost upgrade for your machine. I'm almost certain that there are trustworthy folks here with what you'd need to do that and they'd make sure the DBV-200 was updated to the latest internal software so it would work with nearly all US bills.
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You can post a "WTB" (Want To Buy) ad in the following forum: http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=23.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=23.0)
I'm sure one of the vendors will have a DBV-200 and power supply available for you to put into your machine, and they're typically not extremely expensive.
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.....So I guess I will keep an eye out for....... the newer chip that allows it to add credits for each coin dropped that Shaggy talked about.
As mentioned by Shaggy back in reply#1, replacing that chip is another fairly easy and lowcost change you can make.
On the main circuit board (mpu board) there are 2 chips in sockets next to each other. One is the SP chip and the other is the SS chip. The SS chip is more or less your Triple Play game chip for the machine. The SP chip is sorta like the operating system software. You can remove this SP chip and install the SP1137 that Shaggy mentioned. Then each time you insert a quarter into the machine it will add 99 credits (or less credits if you want). That's makes it very easy to play without having to add money continuously and you don't have to have a bill validator. This SP1137 can be obtained from vendor folks here on NLG.
I'm not sure, but you may also need to get a SET chip if you decide to install the SP1137 chip. The SET chip is a utility chip that is used in some situations to make changes to the machines settings.
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I re-soldered the CAP back on in the proper polarity and then replaced the fuse. But the fuse blew again. So there is a larger issue looming somewhere either in the bill validator power supply still has a bad component or in the bill validator mechanism itself is causing it to blow. So I will look at the other option available (update the bill validator to the later model that accepts the modern bills, OR increase the credit per coin dropped. OR move to a coinless solution with a button on the side of the machine).
You need to replace the main cap with a fresh new one.
It was not a cold solder joint that caused it to fall out, it was the failing cap heating up to the point it un-soldered itself.
A sure tell that it is time to replace the cap.
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I updated the system with a WBA bill validator. I am now just waiting on the set chip to re-enable the bill validator. I ran the validator test and it accepts a bill and spits it back out. But it wont work when I take it out of self test. When I check the status, it shows disabled. So just waiting for the chip now.....