New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Phan000 on October 05, 2020, 07:11:05 AM
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I got yet another Bally EM. It is working properly except for the jackpot bell.
It’s missing a 5v fuse as well as the cap. Appears to have some alterations on the wiring.
The bell is fed into a two blue wires: one goes to the door switch...
The other wire is a bit hard to follow.
What would be the purpose of the 4th fuse, if everything else is working? Looks like it had a candle at one point.
(https://i.imgur.com/r5Cw1v1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UlxLug0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/APwEOek.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6IK2Bsn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Zax1Vme.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N78zdyG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/V24oVL9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/82kHRwp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/80DRRnA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5FZHmUR.jpg)
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on a base model 1114, the bell should have solid blue wire 20 and solid red wire 10-2 on it's two leads. Someone cut the red wires and connected them someplace else with the dark blue wire. Looks like a door switch for an alarm (bell rings when door opened)? That may be how the game came from the factory ... only way to know is find the schem for a 1114-37. If the wiring is messy and outside the harness, that's a clue someone else made the changes.
anyway, there's a couple red wires that have been cut and capped off. Originally the red wire from the harness would go to the bell plug, then from there to the terminal strip. You have an extra wire on the terminal strip attached to the red wire. Is it going to the cap with the red wire and is it also solid red ... or is the red/yellow and it goes to where the dark blue wire goes?
you're right on the game having a candle ... or at least support for one. On the terminal strip by the bell, the solid blue wire is 20 and the red wire is 10-2 - same as the bell. Those connected to the jackpot lamp in the candle.
the black/yellow wire is 83-3 and would have gone to the service lamp. The other side of the lamp goes to 20 also.
the 1114 has 5A fuses in both the hot and the neutral wires coming from your power cord - see schem chunk below. Your game connects wire 80-8 and wire 10 together, so the fuse isn't needed and wouldn't do anything if you plugged one in.
Are the fat black and white wires on the two fuses going to the power cord or something else?
assuming you have a standard power cord with a ground pin, running the game as wired is perfectly fine. There's no reason to have a fuse in the neutral side.
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Most likely there was a service / jackpot light on top.
Also circled a bare wire that could cause a short.
Blue is the 6 volt, red is the jackpot and the black/yellow is for change/ service button.
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I cut off the nutted red wires and removed the door switch wire.
With a little experimenting, the bell works perfectly.
There is an extra set of red wires as noted in the photo. When connected, they make the jackpot bell ring, even with the reels removed.
What is the purpose of the second set of red wires? Also the yellow bare wire noted by David seems to serve no function.
The blue door wire that was previously connected to the bell was an aftermarket addition. It’s was not in the harness, and is not something that would benefit home use.
The wire nuts are temporary. What is the permanent choice for connecting these wires? Butt connector?
Thanks
(https://i.imgur.com/80bDqZ9.jpg)
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red wire from harness connects to red bell plug wire #1
red bell plug wire #2 connects to wire going to terminal strip
cap the yellow wire, tho I'd make sure it doesn't go anyplace you care about.
butt connectors are fine
the bell was not being used for jackpot, it was being used as an alarm. The microswitch where the dark blue wire, yellow and red/yellow wires went was moved by the door hinge? Hinge switches were used on some games. Typically a tower light was turned on when the door was opened. MGM casino liked them.
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One more issue with this machine-
I lubed and cleaned all the mechanisms under the reels.
They spin well, however the first reel stops prematurely on occasion. Very intermittent, sometimes only advancing a symbol or two before the stop engages. Reels 2 and 3 work well.
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if the reels kick off before the handle is really close to hitting the bottom when you pull it, then the reels may be kicking a little too early and you'd want to adjust the L-shaped bar on the bottom/right/back side of the reel mech forward a little to make the kick later.
if you move the bar too far forward, the handle will hit bottom before the kick and be stuck down. You have to release the handle manually or nudge the release pawl with a long screwdriver to cause the kick.
if it's not that, check for wear on the timer link ... the long bar connected to the front shaft under the reels ... and see if you have slop in the shaft relative to the clock gearing which is usually a worn roll/tension pin connecting the shaft to the clock.
also see what hole is being used in the end of the timer link. There's multiple holes so the same part can be used on different reels and have a different effective length.
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So the reels are not kicking off before the handle hits botttom. That part seems right.
With the timer link, I am having trouble assessing any issues there. I didn’t really see any slop, but not sure about the holes that you mentioned. Where would I look for that?
The issue is very intermittent. Spins and stops great 20 times, then first reel stops prematurely.
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in the below image are the timer links (green arrow). Note the four holes in the left end.
the idea is the links get progressively shorter so the reels don't all stop at the same time.
note also the variator in the link on the bottom. That changes the length of the timer link slightly on each spin to help randomize the outcome.
there's also a variator on the link arm to the clock. If you are having a problem that is cyclical ... like it works fine for X number of spins then an issue ... spin the cog to make the link arm as short as possible and see what happens. Repeat making the link arm as long as possible.
if having the length at an extreme - I forget which - makes the issue repeatable, then either the kick is happening slightly too soon or there's an issue with how the clock is controlling the shaft.
if the problem is more random, make sure the pawl (red arrow) is rotating freely on the shaft.
someone had the clock-controlling-shaft issue a few weeks ago - http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=28167 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=28167)
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Try moving the timing rod to the first hole.
See if that makes a difference.
Also check the ratchet wheel on the left outside of the reels. It needs to spin freely.
A month ago a problem like this was posted. After many exchanges and adjustments the problem still persists.
Owner of the machine noticed excessive play at the timer lever assembly arm. The roll pin hole that holds the assembly
was badly worn. So much so it effected the timing.