New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT Fortune 1 Sircoma/Poker => Topic started by: RiseLikeRa on November 23, 2014, 03:25:44 PM
-
Hello group:
This is probably a simple one for you experts... My coin diverter seems to always send incoming coins into the hopper causing it to overfill. I hear the hum as soon at the game is powered on. The hopper is like the snow hopper in the Bally EM's that SHOULD change where the coins go according to the weight of the coins in it. While the game is on and the door is open I lift up on the hopper slightly. I here the switch on the hopper click but the diverter does not change its position. When the game is shut off the little flap opens up and clears the path to the under table storage area. I hope that I was clear in my description.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks so much
Ra
-
I pulled both wires off of the micro switch on the hopper one at at time. The coil in the door was still energized with either one or BOTH wire off of the micro switch. I swung open the panel on the door that holds the coin mech and such and found a white and an orange and black wire leading to the coil. I traced both of those wires back to the small board on the side of the hopper.
When I removed those wires from the coil it de-energized. I am going to remove the connection plugs into that logic board. My thoughts are that if I unplug the connection and the coil relaxes then I think that the problem might be that board. IF the coil is still energized then I will suspect that some wires are touching each other in between the coil and the board.
Your collective thoughts?
Ra
-
With my pinball knowledge and if this diverter coil is not a direct circut controlled by the switch only, I would think you have a shorted tansistor or even a possibly shorted diode in that circut. With schematics, easy to follow. Otherwise ... start tracing. Gordy might have the schematics for it.
Dave F
-
I agree that there could be a bad part on that logic board causing the solenoid problem. At least it is a good place to start, based on the troubleshooting you've already done.
If it isn't a large board maybe you can remove it from the machine and follow the board traces (circuit paths) from the two solenoid wires connection points over to a component such as a transistor or chip that controls the solenoid. If the logic board has a part number on it we might be able to find a schematic drawing for it and get a better idea what to suspect. And if you can post a closeup picture of the logic board someone might recognize it or have one extra.
-
Dave and Rok:
Thank you both for getting back to me. I think that we are on to something here. I am going to take that board out and see what I can see. After sending my main board with the parts that I found rolling around in the game after the airplane ride (see picture) Larry sent the black metal clips back to me. I think that they came from this board. I am leaning toward sending this board to Larry Weber also just in case there is more damage than meets my untrained eye.
Once I get the game 100% I can maintain it that way. I am very gentle with my machines.
Gary I hope to see Gordy between now and the New Year. He is holding a poker game for me. Perhaps a diet lunch for us since you are FORMERLY known as the Fatman. :-)
I will keep everyone posted.
Thanks again
Ra
-
Ra,
Something you can try fairly easily & rule out as a possibility before concentrating on the logic board -
I don't think you should assume the micro switch is ok, even though it makes a clicking sound. It could be broken inside and not working, there's some small metal parts and a metal arm in there that flip back & forth to make contact when the switch works. This micro switch could be what sends a signal to the logic board to tell it to turn off the solenoid. If the micro switch is broken then the logic board never gets told to change the solenoid condition. To check this you can take the 2 wires that were attached to this micro switch and touch them to each other, since that is what the switch does anyway. If touching the wires together changes the solenoid position then the micro switch is suspect. You will need to do this test with power on so be careful. Hopefully it isn't too hard to reach safely. If it is then with power off you can attach these 2 wires together somehow, then power on the machine to see if the solenoid changes position.
Just another theory, without the drawings it is tough to know for sure.
-
That is a great idea! I will do it first thing in the morning. In my rookie mind I thought that I had eliminated the switch as the problem when I disconnected it and the coil was still energized. Then I pulled the hopper that the switch is attached to and STILL the coil was energized. I will give it a go before I head off to work. The switch is right in front and very easy to get to. I am encouraged now. I might even be able to fix this puppy. lol
Chat real soon.
Ra
-
Well, the problem could still be a few different things, including a chafed or pinched wire as you mentioned. But I didn't think the micro switch should be skipped over without making sure it was ok.
Good luck with it!
-
Rok:
As promised I took the two wires from the micro switch and joined them together. No change in the position of the coil. I think that evidence is mounting that the small board may be my problem. The game is still working other than that issue.
My plan is to enjoy the game over the holiday weekend with friends and family. Monday I will ship the board of to Vegas to Larry at K-Lar. He and Badbaud have been a wonderful resource thusfar.
I want the game to be 100%. Our trouble shooting has been a great learning experience for me. I can rebuild a transmission with my eyes closed but I get a little intimidate when tinkering with these slot machine. Go figure.
Thank you again
Ra
-
My friend, do you have a pic of this little board? It might be an easy trace with a meter to trace the micro switch to the connector and then connector to the trace to find the circut. You can check for shorted transistors with the meter on diode check (audible continuity) and if you get a tone in all positions on the legs, there is a strong chance it is shorted. The same with a diode, tone in one direction and not in the other. It can be different out of circut. Only will be sure when it is taken out of the circut, but usually that is the case. Send me a pic and see if you can trace the micro switch leads to the connector. I will look for the transistors and diodes on the little board when I see the pics.
Dave F
-
I was hopeful the micro switch might be the problem but now it does seem the small logic board is likely to be it. Good luck!
-
Dave:
Clint Eastwood said that a man has got to know his limitations. I know mine. Although I have a Multi meter I learn more visually. I want to look over the shoulder of one of you experts. Once I see it done I can duplicate the process. I simply am afraid to go too deep without an on site instructor. I know that what you suggested is simple and old hat for you its new territory for me.
Ra
-
Fresh back from vacation I just wanted to post a picture of the possible problematic board. Perhaps someone can see something obvious.
Thanks for taking a look.
Ra