New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: inobmaz on July 19, 2016, 09:13:31 AM
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New to the forum and slots. I bough an e2000 slot machine with problems. The LED indicator doesn't turn, the coin goes straight to the tray and can't pull the handle. The good news is I have a manual, and the machine lights power on. I did try to reboot the machine from the hopper board with no response. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Let me know I can include photos.
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Hello and welcome to Mew Life Games..
First thing I do with the Bally E Series machines is to check the power supply plug for burnt connections, (I'll post a pic of one I just repaired)... Look for burnt or dark coloring of the plug. Then if you have a voltage meter check the out put test loops of the power supply for voltages. Hook the black lead the GRD, then test the other 3 loops for voltage. You should see about 5v, 7.5v, and 10v on the 3 test loops. Next check your fuses.. Both the fuse and power supply are located in the back wall behind the hopper. Easiest way to check the fuses and fuse holders is to remove the whole fuse block, two screws or nuts hold it in place, then unplug it from the wiring harness. Check your fuses with the meter, and inspect the fuse holders them self. They can crack or break the metal pieces inside the fuse holder. If this machine has been sitting for a long time the reel mech assembly will need to be cleaned and oiled. There are a few cross shafts that have pivot arms and other linkages that must move freely to operate. Also the very first thing to check is the condition of the power cord. Since they come in the bottom of the machine they tend to get cut up and exposed wires. Check and repair as needed. Post pictures of you new toy.
Gary
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Thanks Gary! I will take some photos tonight.
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I just realized I forgot to post the picture of the power supply plug I just replaced..
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Gary didnt see any discoloring on the plug. I will check the voltage soon. Here are some photos.
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Check the condition of the solder joints on the back of your power supply where the plug connects. The tend to develope crack due to heat cycles. Those cracks cause heat in which melts the plugs. Check your pier cord and fuses next.
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Sounds like your MPU board is dead.
Check the battery on the MPU board and make sure it is at least 3.5VDC, replace if not.
Re-seat the EPROMS and any other chips.
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Sounds like your MPU board is dead.
Check the battery on the MPU board and make sure it is at least 3.5VDC, replace if not.
Re-seat the EPROMS and any other chips.
Isn't it true that the Bally E1000 series and E2000 do not need there battery's to operate? They are used to retain the book keeping information on the machine. I do agree with reseating the eproms on the board. I was giving basic startup thing to check on a new machine.
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Thanks guys. I reseated the eproms on the power supply. The LED read out is now workin! Next step run through the tests. Have more info soon.
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Thanks guys. I reseated the eproms on the power supply. The LED read out is now workin! Next step run through the tests. Have more info soon.
Greatg news that your making progress. Run test 2, that will cycle thru all the bulbs and solenoids.
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..... I reseated the eproms on the power supply. The LED read out is now workin! ...
The power supply has eproms?? :Scratch-Head:
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Sorry new to some of the terms. I reseated the plug that connects to the power supply.
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Sorry new to some of the terms. I reseated the plug that connects to the power supply.
The connector in the plugs are tin plated. What happens over time is that the header pins and plug connectors tarnish. Taking the plug and in and off a couple times helps to clean the plugs. Using a pink eraser on the pins works great.
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Great idea tricks of the trade.
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Sounds like your MPU board is dead.
Check the battery on the MPU board and make sure it is at least 3.5VDC, replace if not.
Re-seat the EPROMS and any other chips.
Isn't it true that the Bally E1000 series and E2000 do not need there battery's to operate? They are used to retain the book keeping information on the machine. I do agree with reseating the eproms on the board. I was giving basic startup thing to check on a new machine.
Nope. The battery must be in and working.
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I use the Ebay lithium 3.6V battery on all of my E2000 CPU boards. They are larger than the original NiCad batteries but have a massively-long shelf life holding the charge when the machine is powered off.
I solder short wires on each end, solder directly to the board and call it a day. Just be sure it's a rechargeable Li Ion battery, cost is about $4:
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ramegoom.com%2Fjohn%2FE2000%2Fli-ion-cpu-mod-E2000.jpg&hash=b467e2ae8b13bc104dca28798688fdbd8d5339aa)
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Sounds like your MPU board is dead.
Check the battery on the MPU board and make sure it is at least 3.5VDC, replace if not.
Re-seat the EPROMS and any other chips.
Isn't it true that the Bally E1000 series and E2000 do not need there battery's to operate? They are used to retain the book keeping information on the machine. I do agree with reseating the eproms on the board. I was giving basic startup thing to check on a new machine.
Nope. The battery must be in and working.
Ok my mistake.
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I use the Ebay lithium 3.6V battery on all of my E2000 CPU boards. They are larger than the original NiCad batteries but have a massively-long shelf life holding the charge when the machine is powered off.
I solder short wires on each end, solder directly to the board and call it a day. Just be sure it's a rechargeable Li Ion battery, cost is about $4:
([url]https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ramegoom.com%2Fjohn%2FE2000%2Fli-ion-cpu-mod-E2000.jpg&hash=b467e2ae8b13bc104dca28798688fdbd8d5339aa[/url])
Do some research. If you don't remove the 5V charge circuit the battery will eventually blow up. I just spent 2 hours removing a blowed up battery mess from a board. As the Li-Ion battery loses it's ability to keep it's 3.7v the 5V charge circuit will burn up the battery. You are suppose to remove the 100 Ohm charging resistor and drop in a diode to isolate the battery from the charge circuit.
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I *did* the research, and I previously posted the info that you're referring to.
Your advice relative to ONLY if you're not using a rechargeable battery. I use rechargeable Lithium batteries, and there is no chance of explosion or overheating. IF you use a standard source lithium battery, then yes, you need to remove the resistor and add a diode next to it, as shown here:
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ramegoom.com%2Fjohn%2FE2000%2Fe2000MPU_lithium_mod-1200.jpg&hash=b0e9db5129511209a0df5b66c3271af5b6c75f56)
Personally, I prefer to use the rechargeable battery instead, not the one shown avove. You don't need to worry about eventual depletion and it can take the trickle charge indefinitely.
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This is where I found the info
http://science.energy.gov/~/media/wdts/nsb/pdf/Lithium%20Ion%20Battery%20Kits%20Information/Safety-Hazards-of-Batteries.pdf (http://science.energy.gov/~/media/wdts/nsb/pdf/Lithium%20Ion%20Battery%20Kits%20Information/Safety-Hazards-of-Batteries.pdf)
I agree, the Li-Ion are safer to charge but would recommend a socket and not soldering to the battery.
Considering their higher current rating, if you don't charge them they will still last for years without even seeing a charging voltage so the diode may still be a good option.
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Agreed. Use a large Li Ion battery and a diode, you'll get at least 10 years out of it. Even a coin cell will give you years of backup power. Slightly more work to install it, but a good option.
The rechargeable batteries I use are made for rechargeable drills and other power tools, so it'd be virtually impossible to overcharge or overheat the cell thru the 100 ohm resistor. Running your machine for a few hours will keep it fully charged at all times.
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I sell the NICAD 3.6 battery on ebay - why mess around with a work around when the correct battery is readily available? ebay item
152028476827
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I completed the 8 tests. All a success expect for the reel reader test. When I held the coin switch to cycle thru the desired paylines nothing happened. Could be user error. I couldn’t move each reel either as the directions state:
“Move each reel one position at a time while observing the display. Check all positions on each reel. If the symbol appearing on the indicated payline is at odds with the code being displayed,
check to be sure the correct tapes have been installed. If the tapes are correct, proceed to the next test.â€
Finally, I rebooted the machine. Then inserted a two coins. The first and second reels locked quickly then the third reel kept spinning. Finally the TILT sign lite up and the errors code displayed (see photos). The code are 41 000 and then 2 000.
Do you think there is an issue with the reel reader control board or the position readers?
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Could be the stop solenoid. If it gets sticky, it will prevent the reel from stopping.
And, the reel has to stop at its expected symbol, otherwise, you'll set a tilt code. So a sluggish solenoid can give you fits.
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When doing your test 5 for the reel readers you don't need to hold the coin switch to check the readers.. Go to test 5, unlatch reel one and spin it slowly and watch you win meter.. You should see each symbol appear in the meter.. Do the same with all 3 reels.. The latch paw attaches to the solenoid for each reel stop.. That latch paw is on a small cross shaft, this shaft should spin freely, and the latch paw should move with out binding.. Same goes for the larger shaft on the top that the reel stops pivot on.. these levers should and need to move with out binding..
You say your getting a code 41, but the third reels not stopping? Code 41 refers to reel one, 42 is reel 2, and 43 is reel 3... One way to check a reel reader is to move it to a different position and see if the error moves with the reader.. These codes can come from a reel not spinning at the proper speed, look for anything rubbing on a reel slowing it down, or it could that your reel hubs needle bearings are dry and need oiling.. There is a small oiling hole on each of the reels hubs.. If your code is 41 and and reel 3 is not stopping, you need to make sure no one before you has crossed the reel readers plugs..
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I completed the 8 tests. All a success expect for the reel reader test. When I held the coin switch to cycle thru the desired paylines nothing happened. Could be user error. I couldn’t move each reel either as the directions state:
“Move each reel one position at a time while observing the display. Check all positions on each reel. If the symbol appearing on the indicated payline is at odds with the code being displayed,
check to be sure the correct tapes have been installed. If the tapes are correct, proceed to the next test.â€
Finally, I rebooted the machine. Then inserted a two coins. The first and second reels locked quickly then the third reel kept spinning. Finally the TILT sign lite up and the errors code displayed (see photos). The code are 41 000 and then 2 000.
Do you think there is an issue with the reel reader control board or the position readers?
Your kick and or arm switch on the side of the reel mech could be out of alignment, that is if test 5 works and shows the proper reel symbols.
If the readings don't match the reel tapes there is a reel decoder board inside the mech that could be suspect.
Best practice is to re-seat all reel reader card and decoder connectors before doing a test 5.
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Good news the slot is working! The hydrotex lube had dried on many components in the reel mech. Broke it down, cleaned it and reapplied lube. Thanks everyone.
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Glad to hear it's working. Many of they machines problems can be fixed by doing just as you did. The latch paws. Dog bone links, and other pivoting levers dry out and become sticky. A god cleaning and oiling can fix a lot if problems, but not always everything. Have fun with your newly fixed toy.
Gary
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The slot was working fine until recently. The reels just spin, no tilt nada. When I run the test diagnostic no readings on the display. Any thoughts?
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Check your kick and arm switches on the left rear side of the reels. Make sure one switch didn't come off the cam
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first picture shows 0000 in the win meter - not arm kick - there are other threads for the 0000 error.
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Any recommendations on someone who can test and repair the reel readers and reel reader control board?
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Call Larry 702-363-9998.
I have testers and repair parts for both.
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Thanks I will call you tomorrow.
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You should also send your I/O board