New Life Games LLC
Progressive Controllers and Displays => Mikohn Progressive Systems => Topic started by: Nepa Coin Op on March 12, 2018, 09:31:16 AM
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I have 3 mikohn controller here from Bally 6000s.......... one was working fine in a game I had updated it with the remote batt pack and 2 rechargeable AAAs with no issues for about 2 weeks then I get the dredded 91 error ....... checked batt voltage .... down to 2.24 ..... put fresh set in and when in programming mode it just keeps flipping between disp and adr ..... won't stop so I can enter 1 and do settings ..... no idea what happened to this one ........ have #2 won't boot at all just flickers and only last red led is on ......forgot what 3 is doing I believe flickering too and not allowing setup ........ reseated roms and all that ..... lost here ..... was working fine and just crapped out ....... I have orig batts here with 2.8+ v in them ..... put them in and no change they still are acting up ....... what's the fix for these ???
Thx
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Post pictures please
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I've isolated this prob down to the power sup.... I have a setup that uses a bench supply on my bench when programming these controllers ....... running there it's fine ...... with the ps from the game I get scrambled garbage on the display ..... voltages are good 11.5 and 5.0
I figured I had some AC ripple I recapped the sup ans it's still doing the same ..... what would cause that ?? Very close to putting an arcade switcher in there and being done with it
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I have successfully used old PC power supplies they can power the board and the display (5 and 12V) They have worked very well. PC supplies like the video game supplies have very smooth power. Some of those Mikhon supplies are 25 years old and have lived a hard casino life.
Rich
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That's prob what I'm gonna do ..... I'll end up fixing this for a spare ...... pretty sure the 12v regulator is on its way out on this one ..
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ordered a new arcade switcher and its scrambled hooked up to it, does not like it but on my bench PSU its fine do its deff a ps prob
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Post some pics
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Post some pics
pics of what ?? its scrambled garbled junk when hooked to the swither and good on the bench supply
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Your connections from the switcher.
Does your bench have a display or are you using the same one? If your using a different display then I would focus on that. Are all the pins correctly lined up between the two boards in the display? Without a few pictures trouble shooting is much harder.
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heres where I am with this since we left off........ when hooked to the switcher or factory psu itll flicker between drive b, drive c but never fully boot and all programmed settings get corrupted and lost....
when this originally happened I tested the controller on my bench with a lab power sup and it works fine so I ordered an arcade switcher for it. hooked it up and same thing.... thinking maybe interference from the florescent bulb pulled it all out and brought the switcher and controller to the bench... does the same thing... tried adjusting voltage between 4.8-5.2 and 11.8-12.2 same thing... hooked to the lab supply and its fine boots right up no probs ........wth :Scratch-Head: :Scratch-Head: :banghead: :banghead:
pics are being a pain for me i cant resize from my phone and cant find my damn sd card reader to up load from digi
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Pictures are a pain try adjusting the camera on your phone for lower resolution.
Does this happen to all of them or are you working with the one that is supposed to be good.
Are you using two different display screens?
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both displays are fine as well as all controller when using the lab power sup ........ switcher or oem sup screw it up ... oem sup was good for a long time and started messing up which is what started this nightmare
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Scrambled is what I get
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Strange almost like a cable problem. Do you have another ribbon you can try? Good steady 5 and 12 volts with the switcher?
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yep tried diff ribbons and just about anything else you can imagine....when the orig started doing this I thought .. HA recap n im good..... NOPE... well since its ok on the lab supply ... new PS and im good .. NOPE... for some reason none of these switchers have clean enough power for it .. I did recap the orig and its no diff than it was so that has other issues..... this is a good one
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Check for cold solder joints on the board.
How about an old PC power supply.
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i dont think I have a pc supply around here i would trust..... no cold joints on the board went over that too
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I don't have a board in front of me but aren't there a few electrolytic caps on it that are last chance filters you may want to try them.
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I don't have a board in front of me but aren't there a few electrolytic caps on it that are last chance filters you may want to try them.
yea looks like it has a few.... ill try it
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I don't have a board in front of me but aren't there a few electrolytic caps on it that are last chance filters you may want to try them.
no change with new caps....but as before its fine on the lab supply no good on the switcher .....
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I'm not familiar with the power supply you are trying to use.
I know that old atx supplies also work. Still would like to see pic with switcher hooked up.
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There's a pic further back in this thread
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I want to see the boards with the connections not the scrambled display result.
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i made some headway on this....will work with a switcher if only the 12v to the controller is hooked up ....... hook up the 12 to controller and 5 to the display and it scrambles .... each on its own power sup and its OK..... getting really interesting now
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Does the switcher use a common ground?
Still no picture
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I'm sure ground is common inside
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now all of a sudden it started working with both hooked to the switcher.... i let it run on the bench a while all seemed well...........put it in the game all was well for maybe an hour or 2, walked by it a little later at its giving the C4 so its lost its programming.... one thing i did notice when it was on the bench was every once in a while it would reboot on its own.... strange