New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => SIGMA Reel Games => Topic started by: mwade109 on October 08, 2021, 06:11:51 PM
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I picked up this Sigma thinking the error would be easy to get rid of but I am finding out it is not. Nothing happens when I hit the wires together where the keyswitch used to be on the side, nothing happens when I press the 'test' button above the power supply. On my other Sigma, a SG350, when you open the door all kinds of alarms go off but not this this one. Here's what I know:
The capacitor holds somewhat of a charge, goes from 5.5v to 4.6 in 24hrs.
Replaced 'test' microswitch after testing showed bad.
Tested door cherry switch. tested good.
I was at a loss wondering if this machine would do ANYTHING, I changed the 1st dip switch and it went from rams wrong to dipswitch changed, so I can at least say that the machine is capable of doing something.
Any ideas?
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OK, after looking over everything I cannot for the life of me figure whats going on. I believe it had something with it not seeing the door being open. A thanks to Papacon78 for helping me and providing a pic of his cherry door switch wiring that shows that he has 3 wires attached whereas I only have 2 wires attached. Looking at the mainboard in the background I can see that he is running the same one as I am.
Anyone have any input on where my extra wire might originate from so Maybe I can trace it?
Here is a pic of both of ours switches, mine being the one with only 2 wires
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I checked the schematics I downloaded from the NLG download section.
All of the models I looked at have the main door switch wired the same. Not sure about the model number on your machine/tag being the same, but we can probably assume it is.
Notice the COM terminal is Ground. NC (Normally Closed) terminal goes to the SDS I/O board. NO (Normally Open) terminal goes to J3 pin 5 of the MPU (main) board.
I would assume you need all 3 wires on the main door switch for the machine to function as the signals (ground when main door open or closed) go to 2 different boards.
The switches have raised lettering on them to let you know which terminal is what.
Hopefully you can trace the wires and determine how your machine is wired - or not wired - with the attached PDF.
PM me if you need more information or help.
I noticed you are a contributing member - you should have access to the download section. Download the information there for the Sigma machines. here is the direct link -
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=24 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=24)
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Thank you, although I can usually make my way around with a multi-meter, I am not a electronics tech or even close to it. I cannot read schematics much at all.
The plate on the machine says it is a Model W3113, the mainboard number is B31-1E.
I am not sure how much the schematic on NLG pertains to my system as it is for a 150 Plus.
The wires on my door switch is on com and NO positions. If you look at the coloring of the NC & NO terminal on my door switch it looks like there was never anything on the NC terminal. The entire NC is the same uniform dark color as the little bit of NO terminal that is exposed.
I will be back out to it a little but later today. Thanks
-mike
I checked the schematics I downloaded from the NLG download section.
All of the models I looked at have the main door switch wired the same. Not sure about the model number on your machine/tag being the same, but we can probably assume it is.
Notice the COM terminal is Ground. NC (Normally Closed) terminal goes to the SDS I/O board. NO (Normally Open) terminal goes to J3 pin 5 of the MPU (main) board.
I would assume you need all 3 wires on the main door switch for the machine to function as the signals (ground when main door open or closed) go to 2 different boards.
The switches have raised lettering on them to let you know which terminal is what.
Hopefully you can trace the wires and determine how your machine is wired - or not wired - with the attached PDF.
PM me if you need more information or help.
I noticed you are a contributing member - you should have access to the download section. Download the information there for the Sigma machines. here is the direct link -
[url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=24[/url] ([url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=24[/url])
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Could have asked about the extra wire. On mine it goes to a red plug that isnt hooked to anything. It does nothing more than take up space.
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I have an older Sigma Poker B-52 and the Door/Cherry Switch and Test switch shows the wires as seen in the photo runs back to CN-3 on backside of the board. I know your machine is a newer Reel slot machine don't know if it's wired the same or not. The manuals I have show that a Ram error is cleared by turning the reset switch. Says things like game mismatch will cause a ram error or changing out to another game you have to turn the reset switch also. Like I said my game is older so don't know if the wires are hooked up the same. You could also check to see if any of the chips that are installed have any bent pins. be very careful if you pull any and when replacing them make sure they go in the right direction with the notches. Hope this helps.
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Your diagram was exactly what mine looks like. I got my trusty old multimeter out and tested the wires back to the connector and all of they tested perfect as well as the door switch. Would you possibly have a diagram as to where the two wires for the reset switch go?
Thanks
I have an older Sigma Poker B-52 and the Door/Cherry Switch and Test switch shows the wires as seen in the photo runs back to CN-3 on backside of the board. I know your machine is a newer Reel slot machine don't know if it's wired the same or not. The manuals I have show that a Ram error is cleared by turning the reset switch. Says things like game mismatch will cause a ram error or changing out to another game you have to turn the reset switch also. Like I said my game is older so don't know if the wires are hooked up the same. You could also check to see if any of the chips that are installed have any bent pins. be very careful if you pull any and when replacing them make sure they go in the right direction with the notches. Hope this helps.
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Looks like the reset wire that goes to the MPU is connected to CN3 pin 3. The other wire goes to ground.
EDIT: Ground for the switches is CN3 pin 12.
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Make sure you're using the right ground. I had an issue with one of the buttons not working and someone had it going to the wrong ground.
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Looks like my reset wire going to pin 3 is correct but my ground wire from the reset switch is going to pin 11 (which is on the front of connector, same side as pin 1)
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Looks like the reset wire that goes to the MPU is connected to CN3 pin 3. The other wire goes to ground.
EDIT: Ground for the switches is CN3 pin 12.
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Quite possibly my problem.
Make sure you're using the right ground. I had an issue with one of the buttons not working and someone had it going to the wrong ground.
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No that is not a problem. The door switch ground is connected to CN3 pin 11.
I tried to not confuse the effort here. Pin 14 is the ground for the reset switch (actually all 3 of the switches in that location)
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So.... are you saying I should splice the ground wire coming from the reset switch into whatever wire that is connected to pin 14?
No that is not a problem. The door switch ground is connected to CN3 pin 11.
I tried to not confuse the effort here. Pin 14 is the ground for the reset switch (actually all 3 of the switches in that location)
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This is what I have on my Sigma for the Last Game/Meter/Reset switches.
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Thanks, my mistake, my old eyes deceived me again. The ground wire is going where it should be. Those diagrams are great though!
Anyone with any other ideas? The only other things that just don't look right to me are these two pics, and I am goint to guess they are normal. I never saw a jumper block on a mainboard that looked quite like the one in the picture and in the other pictures, it looks like a after thought and a purple wire was soldered onto that board on the door and it was spliced into pink wire going into the coin comparitor. Could be normal, maybe not.
If no one has any other ideas, anyone have a machine they can test this in?
This is what I have on my Sigma for the Last Game/Meter/Reset switches.
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What pics of mine do you want? I'm selling it tomorrow. I can snap whatever you need
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I am really at a loss as everything seems to be in place, maybe you could send me a pic of the inside of the door, there have been quite a few things spliced in there and I could compare, if you can get a good pic I can zoom in on anything I need. Thanks
-mike
What pics of mine do you want? I'm selling it tomorrow. I can snap whatever you need
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Send me another email so I have your address. Replacing the sigma with an alpha s9.
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Thank you all for your help, this repair will be put on hold while the mainboard is sent to Klar for test and repair if necessary. Hopefully he will find something and all will be well when it comes back.