New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT Fortune 1 Sircoma/Poker => Topic started by: tomterlec on January 12, 2022, 02:22:56 PM
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I have what I believe is an early Fortune 1 Draw Poker, unfortunately the model and serial are missing. Overall the machine is in good shape and plays but has an intermittent issue where buttons don't respond during play. It almost appears to freeze for 5-10 seconds then will register. The led's register being pushed when testing and this only happens during play.
I've been reading old posts and found a similar issue and it was suggested to replace the 5101 RAM chip. My RAM chip at B2 (hope this is correct) says it is 5101-L. I don't know much about compatability of different versions but I have a 5101P-1 and 5101E-1 spares, would either of these work?
If anyone has any other suggestions on possible issues, please respond as well.
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I checked for datasheets. Not much out there but I did locate the Intel M5101L-4 sheet. Nothing on P and E numbers. The -1 or -4 number is probably the timing speed.
Normally those letters indicate package types. IE P - plastic L or C ceramic?
The letter is usually part of the suffix IE 5101- P 5101- L 5101- E, but because these are pretty old and obsolete the L, P and E you have could be package type.
You can look at them and see if they all look the same IE all plastic or some maybe ceramic?
I would try one and see if the machine behavior changes. If the letters are for voltage ranges - that may be bad. I would suspect worse case it may damage the chip you put in, but probably not any other device. Your RAM chips are running on 5 VCD so even if you put one that would maybe be CMOS voltages 6 to 18 approximately, it just may not work, but won't be damaged.
My advice - try it. Put one in - power up for 10 seconds - power down and check the chip to see if it got warm/hot. If not, you are probably good to see how it does booting up.
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Im not saying you are approaching this wrong but out of curiosity have you lifted and re-seated all of the chips that are in sockets? Gently, using a proper puller or very slowly using something like a small screwdriver….cringe.
Also, was that battery in the holder already in there or did you put it in? The reason I ask is because that battery is only used on versions that retain credits. All boards have the holder but many don’t need it.
If you cannot resolve this, Badbaud at K-Lar has a testing station for these boards. He got mine fixed up and working and also replaced the color adjusting pots that typically go bad. The three up by the Danger high voltage text.
I strongly suggest you do whatever is necessary to get the game working, it looks very clean and there is something very satisfying about the way these games play. More textile than newer machines.
Chris
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Thanks Tony, I’m leaning to trying the 5101 chips I have.
Tom
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Chris,
I have not reseated the socketed chips but will give that a try as well. I have reseated just about everything else LOL.
I agree, there is something special with these early video pokers and they are worth the extra effort.
Tom
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I have what I believe is an early Fortune 1 Draw Poker, unfortunately the model and serial are missing. Overall the machine is in good shape and plays but has an intermittent issue where buttons don't respond during play. It almost appears to freeze for 5-10 seconds then will register. The led's register being pushed when testing and this only happens during play.
I've been reading old posts and found a similar issue and it was suggested to replace the 5101 RAM chip. My RAM chip at B2 (hope this is correct) says it is 5101-L. I don't know much about compatability of different versions but I have a 5101P-1 and 5101E-1 spares, would either of these work?
If anyone has any other suggestions on possible issues, please respond as well.
That is usually a defective coin in switch. The normally closed side of the switch provides voltage to the panel switches, when it opens it disables all switches.
It could also be a bad 2 pin jumper on the backplane board, they are also connected in series to the button switches.
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Great suggestions to check the coin in switch and 2 pin jumper, thank you!
Tom
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I’ve continued to work on this issue without success so far. I’ve removed and inspected interconnect board, microprocessor board and backplain and all appear to be working, good traces and jumpers in place, etc. I also swapped the Coin-in switch out and the problem continues.
The issue seems to reside with the deal and draw buttons, almost like one is sticking and staying closed after pushing it. When I can’t deal a new hand, if I push the draw button several times I can deal. Could this be as simple as bad switches? I know this are difficult to find but if anyone has 2 working ones they can part with, I’ll give that a try.
Tom
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You should be able to pull the wires off of all the buttons and just touch the leads. This will prove the game logic is working fine.
You can also test the buttons with a multimeter. To see if they close and then open properly when pressed.
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One of my F1 buttons was sticky, someone probably spilled a free drink in it 30 years ago. I flushed mine with isopropyl 90, then after it dried I sprayed with contact cleaner. It took awhile to dissolve whatever was in there. Those switches occasionally come up on ebay too. Like Jay said you can replicate the button action but mine had 4 or 5 wires on each button because of the lights so I didn’t want to un-solder them all. I used clip on test leads to prove it was the button and not the board.
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Those Electro-Mech buttons actually have two buttons built into them. In the casino, when one side went bad we soldered the wires to the other side, the spare button.
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Those Electro-Mech buttons actually have two buttons built into them. In the casino, when one side went bad we soldered the wires to the other side, the spare button.
That’s good to know and I’ll give it a try and report back.
Tom
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After trying Badbaud's suggestion, the culprit is definitely the draw button. I desoldered the wires from the button, jumped them to the other side and it worked! Thanks for everyone's suggestions, I really appreciate it!
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Glad you got it working. I would have thought it would have been the mechanical part of the button due to sticky drink, not the electrical part.
Good job. :applause: :applause:
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Badbaud is absolutely the best there is! I just helped a fellow who sent me a PM about a button issue on an old Fortune Coin 21 game. I did not know that the buttons had a 2 in one ability. We did get his game up and running. No worries. It was a blast helping another NLG member for across the country. Great forum we have.
Stay well all
Ra
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Thank you for that Ra! When those wires break off (all of them) its like a bad joke!
My machine plays great now and all the button lights work perfectly. I still have plans to map the wires for future prosperity of man kind. We also learned that the color codes are the same in Poker and my Blackjack.
Chris