S+ Display issue but not the usual way…

[BivKrow]

I have an S plus, took everything out for a thorough cleaning as part of my restoration.

All lights, work, denominational, light on front works, close the door and reel spins, power seems to be going to everything, but for the life of me I do not know why the display LEDs just won’t pop on.

Before I did all this, everything was lighting up just fine but now that I’ve reconnected everything it won’t. The only thing I did in the front of the machine near the belly was replace the starter and fluorescent tube.

Top is blinking or solid, depending on whether the hopper is in or not. The hopper needs servicing and repair, which is another issue all to itself but I’m still not sure why the only light that’s coming on in the front is the denomination light and all other LEDs are blank.

And yes, before anyone asks, I have serviced and cleaned the connector to the motherboard, and will be replacing it most likely in the near future too but it seems to be powering just fine.

Hopefully someone can help me out here.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Turn off the power switch.
Disconnect the two connectors on the back on the power supply that have red/white and black wires....those wires carry 115 VAC for fluorescent lighting.
Let's concetrate on getting the game working...later on, all you have to do simply plug back in the fluorescent power harnesses to get those on.

That display you need to get working runs off the middle and top fuse....I dont remember offhand.
All I know is that they are:
8A
6A
8A
Quick blow fuses.
They will have the tiniest thin wire filament inside...not the flat metal filaments.
If you have a multimeter, check them out for continuity.

If you have the small display that goes on the end of the reel glass...pull out the connector and plug it back in.
Sometimes it just needs a little pin cleaning.
If you have the longer reel glass display that runs along the bottom, there will be two small black Microfit Molex connectors.
One is for the lamps that light up [Insert Coin]...[Coin Accepted]...the denomination bulb...the other black Microfit connector is for the data that you want to see on the display.
Again, press on the little tab on the middle end of the connector housing.
It should release while pressing the tab and pulling a little on the housing.
Try not to pull by the wires...you can cause problems wth the pins coming out or whatever.
Pull off/push on a few times for better pin contact.

Finally, I know you've said you've looked at the main white power Molex that runs from the power supply to the motherboard header male pins.
When you wiggle that Molex slightly uwards on the male pins, you will get a cleaner contact than if the Molex is pushed all the down to the bottom of the header pins.
Oxidization and or corrosion is what causes poor pin contact.
Whatch the reels as you wiggle that power connector upwards....the reels will "stiffen" or become loose with zero resistance.
If by wiggling that power connector around on the pins causes the reels to jiggle, now you know you have to replace the harness or female pins inside that Molex housing.
If you get the reels to "stiffen" by wiggling the power Molex upwards, you may not even have to get anything because the pins are contacting against each other much better than before....chances are too, when you look around at that display, it may work as well.
If so, you can turn off the power switch and plug back in your fluorescent lighting harnesses into the top of the back of the power supply.

[BivKrow]

The reels are getting power and when I close the door it goes through a spin and makes the ding noise.

The only issue I’m having here is the display worked before I removed the cpu and now it doesn’t.

Power is there, I’m at a loss tbh. Is it possible the reels and board get power but NOT the front display? If so why would the bulb behind the denom light up but not the red LEDs?

It’s a very odd problem and I need to get it back on to do a proper clear and set.

[BivKrow]

On another note: anyone got a favorite brand and type of fast blow fuses they’d recommend?

[Jim]

don't know what thoroughly cleaning involves, but if you removed the mother board, you probably put one of the cables in the wrong connector, this is a common failure when removing things, the machine will work perfectly, but no display, typically the meter plug was installed in another connector ,this will cause the issue you are having.

Hope this helps.

Jim

[Stayouttadabunker]

Is it possible the reels and board get power but NOT the front display?
If so why would the bulb behind the denom light up but not the red LEDs?

It is very possible the reels and board get power, but NOT the front display.
One of the reasons could be that you bent a pin on the MPU trying to force it down onto the motherboard?
Turn the power switch OFF, remove the MPU and inspect all the pins underneath.
Make sure that every pin is perfectly straight.
Also, check the plug that come from the mechanical meters.
It has mostly brown wires on that harness.
If plugged into the wrong header on the motherboard, you'll get these problems.
We need a photo of the plugs on your motherboard.
(It looks like Jim mentioned it as well as I was typing as he posted)

The display LEDs are on their own small computer circuit board, while the denom, insert coin, and coin accepted lamps use a different line of power.
I really do wish you would put up a good clear 1000KB photo of the back of your display.
The S+ platform has four different types of displays.
Without any photos, we're just guessing what you have. 

[BivKrow]

I’m at work but when I get home I will post the pics and test out your recommendations. Thanks guys!!

[BivKrow]

Thank you everyone for your help display is working again. I had one of the connections to the cpu in the wrong spot and reversed the cable. All is well now except I have a 3200/11 in winner paid, 6 in credits and coins played showing 3. The 3200 in winner paid changes to the 11 paid and 6 in credits so 11-6 but the hopper has an issue. I need to fix now and then likely clear the CMOS from here.

[off-track]

All is well now except I have a 3200/11 in winner paid, 6 in credits and coins played showing 3. The 3200 in winner paid changes to the 11 paid and 6 in credits so 11-6 but the hopper has an issue. I need to fix now and then likely clear the CMOS from here.

As you're probably aware 3200 indicates a hopper jam (with partial payout).  You say your hopper "has an issue" but do you know what it is?  Check for coins doubled up in the knife area.  With the hopper out of the machine, release the motor break manually and rotate the disk by hand to check for smooth coin movement through the payout counter switch.

It will keep alternating 3200/11 until the machine pays out the proper amount of coins.  I'd suggest you avoid a clear if at all possible as it will all settings to default.

[BivKrow]

I figured it was something to do with the hopper. When I say the hopper has an issue it’s a few different things. I haven’t really had a chance to get into the hopper stuff yet but from a very quick basic inspection there is a broken arm on the agitator and rust throughout. I’ll need to replace the agitator and possibly more after I start looking “under the hood” so to speak.

All it does right now is make a buzz to trigger payout then quit after a couple seconds

[BivKrow]

Any reference pics of the motor brake and other jams I should look for? Do the wheels need lubricants?

[off-track]

Any reference pics of the motor brake and other jams I should look for? Do the wheels need lubricants?

If you add the term "brake" in the search box located at the top right of the thread and click on search you will get a list of all posts using that word in the body text.  Look at the topic text, click on the rightmost red hyperlink in the subject field of that thread and you will see the full topic responses.  Many can have pictures posted that may help. 

I found several with picture of the brake but some can be kind of obscure if you're not familiar with it.  This video seems to sum up the whole idea of rotating the disk by hand.  https://youtu.be/xzXW9I9hv24  If it just buzzes you need to make sure the coin wheel spins freely and the motor itself isn't bound up.

Rust is never a good thing, especially if it's real bad.  Try to clean it up as best as possible.  Emery cloth can be used to polish off light rust.  You may need to remove the bowl (maybe more) to better work on it.  Generally speaking, lubrication is usually a bad thing because it can easily be overdone and end gumming things up over time but a "very slight" application of a light machine oil may be used on the gears/shafts.   

[Stayouttadabunker]

Holy Smokes off-track!...I made that video about 9 years ago! 

[off-track]

Well it does show pulling in the brake, the knife and coin out optics.   

[BivKrow]

Thanks a bunch guys. For the most part I’m able to fix these without an issue I’ve just never worked on the hoppers themselves and I made a simple mistake of switching the wires on the CPU board. I’m going to be taking the hopper apart tonight, cleaning it thoroughly and making sure the knife is in place and probably ordering one of those new 3-D printed Agitators they have on eBay to replace the broken arm on mine

It was just really bizarre how everything was working except for the front LED displays, but it makes sense that the power would go to everything just not the data communication because it was in the wrong port of the CPU cable wise.

I don’t think triple cash is much of a popular theme so I’m probably going to be hunting for an S plus kit to convert to if anyone has a five times pay or double diamond please let me know. It’s the full top, not chop top

[Stayouttadabunker]

Just for the heck of it, I'd like to mention the three hopper error codes and what to look at...I could be wrong on the order but you get the jist of it...>>>

[3100] Extra Coin Out = Check the hopper brakes, brake spring, the shaft pawl nibs or too large of spacing between nibs on the wheel.
Any problems with these doesn't get the coin wheel to stop in time and allows an extra coin to get past the hopper optics.
Sometimes the motor shaft has one worn out pawl and jumps over the shaft nib (or clutch) or the spring has weakened and doesn't pull the pawl down onto the nib to stop the wheel in time.
Also, if the spacing between the wheel nibs is too wide (As for larger tokens) , the smaller quarters will slip past the hopper optics, paying out one too many credits.

[3200] Coin Out Jam = Excessive amperage going to the hopper motor. Usually the cause of coins getting jammed between the wheel and the hopper bowl. When the MPU senses too much amperage trying to turn the wheel, it sends a [3200] code to the display.
If there's something wrong with the hopper transmission (For ex. broken gear teeth, rusty bearings, etc.), that could make it hard for the motor to turn the wheel as well.

[3300] Hopper Empty = Too much time elapsed between coins going thru the hopper optics.
Probably need to fill the hopper with more coins.
Need to check that the knife is flat too...sometimes the coins fall off if the tip is worn out. Flatten knife by sanding knife on sandpaper upside down.

[BivKrow]

Update: disassembled the hopper completely (first time working on one), cleaned it all up thoroughly and properly reassembled everything and machine is working %100 now without issues.

Thanks for the vid link and pic. I thought hoppers would be more complex but this proved to be fairly simple work compared to machines I’ve worked on in the past.

Cheers!

[Stayouttadabunker]

Good job BivKrow!