New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: puckhead on June 25, 2016, 11:09:43 AM
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first PE game, i guess PE plus cause of the bill acceptor ? didnt work, but now working. cant find a plus manual in the archives. will a non plus do the job? i dont know even the basic game play or anything about it. also, there are wires with no place to go, see pics, they are circled. green wire with yellow tracer, looks like they are all daisy chained. i have a button bulbs out, what type are they? also, once in a while it goes into a memory testing kind of look, and the screen garbles. a reboot fixes it. any ideas?
thanks
mike
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ps the wires are inside the coin door. i also need the little screw and nut that hols the round piece in the cabinet that the door mechanism latches on to
thanks
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That wire looks like the ground wire that goes to the straight pin connector by your button switch. As for your missing hardware, visit your local hardware store that's what I do.
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Amechanic is right, those disconnected wires that are green with yellow tracer are safety ground wires, they slip onto a round ground pin mounted on each pushbutton switch. If you carefully look at the underside of the pushbutton switches you should see the round pin. These wires are not needed for the buttons to work, they are there in case of a short circuit or other malfunction occurs, to keep voltage from getting on the metal chassis and shocking someone. It is good if they are attached but not needed for the machine to work. They are equivalent to the 3rd prong that is longer on a power cord plug, only there as a safety requirement to meet UL code. If you follow the green wires with yellow tracer you will find it attached to the metal chassis of the machine by a screw, it looks like you can see it over to the right in your photo.
Show us a photo of the main logic board (called the "mpu" board). Make sure the battery hasn't leaked onto the board. Push down firmly but carefully on all ic (eproms) that are in sockets in case some of them have gotten loose over time.
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no leakage on the battery. i actually have 2 of these games. the one in the pics has a replacement lithium battery. the other a replacement varta battery ( dead, but no leakage) . which is correct? the varta looks out of place to me
thanks
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no leakage on the battery. i actually have 2 of these games. the one in the pics has a replacement lithium battery. the other a replacement varta battery ( dead, but no leakage) . which is correct? the varta looks out of place to me
thanks
:Please_Post_Pictures_2clr:
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the lithium is the working unit that sometimes does the memory thing. the other board the varta battery is stone dead, and i havent worked on the machine yet.
thanks
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2nd pic
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I would remove the Varta battery. It looks like that's all someone had to use. Replace it with a half AA Lithium battery.
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If I understand what you are saying you have 2 of these machines. If so that's good because you can swap parts from one machine to another to figure out what is causing the memory reset problem you described. It might be the mpu board, but could be something else like power supply. The 1/2 AA battery is the correct one, any battery of the correct voltage can be connected and the mpu won't know the difference. But many people have had the green Varta battery leak and damage their mpu board so I'd remove it and replace with the correct one. You can use a 1/2 AA battery with solder leads (pigtails), or you can install a battery holder and the 1/2 AA battery can then be easily changed whenever needed.
The burned out bulbs should have a number written on them, take a look at one and you can find replacements. Or others here familiar with the PE+ can say for sure which bulb it uses. Is it just some of the player pushbutton bulbs that are not working, other bulbs and lamps are ok? Be careful when removing the pushbutton cover or button assembly to replace the bulb, that plastic can get fragile over the years. One way is to unscrew the plastic nut under the button and remove the entire assembly for a good cleaning and replace the bulb in the process. Or you may be able to just remove the top button cover and then remove the bad bulb.
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If you're going to desolder the old battery and remove it, you might as well put in a battery holder and only ever solder once. I used the simple and cheap 1/2AA battery holders (search ebay) and dremelled a tiny slot on the bottom to bend the wire straight out. Then I place fit on the MPU board and snip off wire I don't need and solder into place. Then just buy standard 1/2AA batteries without the attached wires and install as shown. A better looking solution and likely easier to solder into place without any mods are these Keystone 1016 holders ( http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/keystone-electronics/1016/36-1016-ND/2137844 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/keystone-electronics/1016/36-1016-ND/2137844) & battery clip http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/keystone-electronics/1024C/36-1024C-ND/2746326 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/keystone-electronics/1024C/36-1024C-ND/2746326) ) buy as many or few as you need. Now you can simply pop out the old one and pop in a new battery or remove the battery for long term storage without the fear of damage to the MPU board. Hope that works out for you.
BrianT
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here are pics. the bonus 25c poker has a chip a U66 that the deuces 25c poker doesnt have. i assume thats correct, the dueces game was before it died.
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2nd board
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here are pics. the bonus 25c poker has a chip a U66 that the deuces 25c poker doesnt have. i assume thats correct, the dueces game was before it died.
Not sure, I was thinking the U66 DATA chip was needed on these boards, maybe it depends on the game software that is installed (single game vs multi-game software). Perhaps someone that knows will comment about this.
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I think your mpu boards are what is called a "superboard". These boards allow multi-game software to be installed so the player can pick from a menu of 5 games. These boards have the extra chip socket at U66. But if an older single-game software is installed the U66 socket will be empty.
..... cant find a plus manual in the archives. will a non plus do the job?.....
thanks
mike
There are some PE+ manuals in the download area, is this where you looked?
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=92 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=92)
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=75 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=75)
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on the board with the missing data chip, i meant to say the game was known to be working before it stopped, so i assume it had no chip. it did have a varta battery in place of the lithium , so who know, maybe the data chip was removed ?
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So does either machine work with one of the mpu boards?
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i havent tried the working board in the non working game( yet). i dont have set up and clear chips yet, and i dont want to cause some kind of mismatch i cant clear. im tempted to, but im waiting for the chips to arrive. im also going to wait until i get a answer on the missing data chip
thanks
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I think your mpu boards are what is called a "superboard". They allowed the newer multi-game software sets to be installed so the player could pick from a menu of 5 games. These boards have the extra chip socket at U66. But if older single-game software is installed the U66 socket will be empty. I think that's what is going on with the board with empty U66 location. So there isn't supposed to be a chip at U66 since the game software on that board is for a single game.
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thanks for those manual links, dont know how i didnt see that
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the working game with the data chip does have 5 game select. the no chip game i dont know, as its not working. if i put the working board in, will i get a mismatch that will need to be re-set up?
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The machine does a quick selftest when powered up. You may get an error, but you just open the door and press the little white button to enter Test/Diagnostics and step thru the screens, select any preferences or options you want. When done close the door and it should work ok. If you get a persistent memory error, like a CMOS RAM, CMOS DATA, EPROM or EEPROM error then you press and hold the white test button for at least 3 seconds and the machine will attempt to transfer and sync data between the EEPROM and CMOS RAM memories. That should get rid of the error unless there is a malfunction.
Have you found the Test/Diag pushbutton inside the machine?
You mentioned you had ordered SET and CLEAR chips, but I didn't think they were needed on the PE & PE+ machines.
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well, no i have no monitor . powers up, you can feel static on the screen. when you power down, you get the while flash that turns into a shrinking while box. candle blinks. the board from the game with no picture works in my working game, just a cmos error. the board from my working game has no picture in the non working game, and makes the candle blink. ive reseated connections, no help
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well, no i have no monitor . powers up, you can feel static on the screen. when you power down, you get the while flash that turns into a shrinking while box. candle blinks. the board from the game with no picture works in my working game, just a cmos error. the board from my working game has no picture in the non working game, and makes the candle blink. ive reseated connections, no help
A little convoluted for me to follow, so just to make sure I understand your situation-
One machine works ok and both mpu boards work fine in it, correct? And neither mpu works in the bad machine? So do you think you have a bad monitor in the bad machine? Since you have a working machine you can figure out what is wrong with the bad machine by changing major assemblies like the monitor, power supply, etc, right? As you are working on it take the time to check the cable connectors, make sure none have a bent or pushed-back pin. Check fuses.
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With a dead battery you can set up the machine and get it running, but every time you power off the machine the data in NVRAM (non volatile RAM aka battery backed up CMOS) will be lost and you'll need to re-setup the machine the next time you power up.
Now talking about the board with the 5 game select. When you have it running and are on the main menu (game select) you should see a pic like shown below. Turn the JackPot reset key and you'll be at the second pic, from here press the DEAL button once. Then continue to turn the Jackpot reset key until you see a screen like the last one shown below. That will tell you what program & data roms you have as yours are unlabeled. Also you will have bad colors due to having the CAPX1321 instead of the CAPX2174 which is used for these single chipset multi-poker games.
BrianT
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BrianT or anyone else-
do PE and PE+ machines use a SET or CLEAR chip like the IGT S and S+ machines?
Just wanting to get that question cleared up.
Thanks!
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I haven't really seen a use for the CMOS clear / erase chip. But the set chips can be used to enable DBV, set denomination and in some case SAS settings depending on the poker program. Based on documentation that I have seen:
SET001 - Set Denomination
SET004 - Set Denom & Enable DBV
SET038 - Set Denom & Enable DBV
I have verified those to work. There is one set of One Eyed Jacks Wild that has to set denom and only SET001 worked. Other chips (based on PSR documentation) include:
SET002 - Set Denom
SET009 - Set Denom & ??
SET012 - Set Denom & ??
SET033 - Set Denom, Enable DBV & SAS 4.0
Then there are others for international regions or Spanish markets which include SET012, SET021, SET022, SET025 & SET045 to name a few. And when you start using international or regional poker Programs like XP000137 and later you have SET100 & SET117.
I don't have all of them to test and some of the above information came from sifting through a lot of PSR (Program Summery Reports). In my most recent PE+ Master Program List I have added the correct SET chip where I could verify documentation. The information has been expanded to include basic run downs of 96 different XP000xxx Poker Programs, 21 XMP000xx Multi Poker Programs and a new section I added "CG by Build" which matches the correct CG graphics set, CAP/CAPX color prom & SET chip based on the program build. As an example using your PP0418 board:
The Build is A47-A76 and according to IGT's PSR for that build, it should us CG2133 + CAP773 & SET004. Of course other CG sets will work but that's the information that IGT intended to work for that Build. To further illustrate that idea:
PP0158 - Bonus Poker
Build A0N-A23 needs CG2003 & CAP904
Build A46-A75 needs CG2003 & CAP904
Build A67-A8K needs CG2108 & CAP740
PP0203 - Bonus Poker
Build 898-974 needs CG2003 & CAP904
Build A35-A51 needs CG1348 & CAP740
PP0250 - Double Down Stud
Build 733-788 requires CG1019 & CAP740
Build A1L-A23 requires CG2015 & CAP740 and doesn't work with CG1019
In fact the way IGT designed the games and "looks at it" is it's not the PP0xxx that determines the CG it's actually the build.
So any PP0xxx that has Build A46-A75 should ALL use CG2003 & CAP904.
My documentation covers 185 different builds which covers the most commonly found builds "out in the wild" This was nice because I have several PP0xxx I didn't know which CG set was required for the correct graphics. Now I know I need to find CG2195, CG2283 & CG2093 as well as CAP1292 & CAP2283 to get them going.
BrianT
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i swapped the monitors. the bad monitor didnt work in the working machine. the good monitor did work in the
" non-working" machine. the non working one did work in the working game for about 10 seconds, then crapped out. i called a local TV guy about repairing it, waiting for a call back. there is an outfit on the web, slotmachineparts.com says they have rebuilt boards for 95.00. anyone heard of them? think a chassis board swap would be successful? i do get surface static and the collapse of the white line when i switch off.
thanks
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i swapped the monitors. the bad monitor didnt work in the working machine. the good monitor did work in the
" non-working" machine. the non working one did work in the working game for about 10 seconds, then crapped out. i called a local TV guy about repairing it, waiting for a call back. there is an outfit on the web, slotmachineparts.com says they have rebuilt boards for 95.00. anyone heard of them? think a chassis board swap would be successful? i do get surface static and the collapse of the white line when i switch off.
thanks
I'm not overly experienced with monitor repair, just know enough to give dangerous advice. :garfield:
A monitor chassis board swap may repair it, a lot of times on older monitors that have a problem people say to try "recapping" it, meaning to replace all the larger value capacitors that are likely to have dried out and gone bad over the years. There are even "cap kits" sold for this purpose. Replacing the monitor logic board would accomplish the same thing, plus you'd be getting a tested board with some guarantee of working I'd think, and all the other circuits on the board would be known to work.
The fact that you have static on the screen makes me think the high voltage and fly back is working. Is the white line you see a horiz line or vertical line only, or does the entire screen get white display (raster). If you are just getting a solid line (horiz or vert) then that can mean the horiz output or vert output transistor is bad. (see example photo below). If both monitors are the same model do you think you should swap the monitor logic boards to find out if it is the board or the crt that is bad on the bad monitor?
I've heard of that company you mentioned but haven't dealt with them, others here may have.
Other than the bad monitor do both machines pretty much work ok?
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If you're going to desolder the old battery and remove it, you might as well put in a battery holder and only ever solder once. I used the simple and cheap 1/2AA battery holders (search ebay) and dremelled a tiny slot on the bottom to bend the wire straight out. Then I place fit on the MPU board and snip off wire I don't need and solder into place. Then just buy standard 1/2AA batteries without the attached wires and install as shown. A better looking solution and likely easier to solder into place without any mods are these Keystone 1016 holders ( [url]http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/keystone-electronics/1016/36-1016-ND/2137844[/url] ([url]http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/keystone-electronics/1016/36-1016-ND/2137844[/url]) & battery clip [url]http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/keystone-electronics/1024C/36-1024C-ND/2746326[/url] ([url]http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/keystone-electronics/1024C/36-1024C-ND/2746326[/url]) ) buy as many or few as you need. Now you can simply pop out the old one and pop in a new battery or remove the battery for long term storage without the fear of damage to the MPU board. Hope that works out for you.
BrianT
I have encountered those batteries in some of my board repairs. What I don't like about them is when you have a side mounted board in a S+ or PE+ and you slam the board down into the slots to plug it into the backplane boards the battery can slip out of it's holder. I would recommend a piece of tape or a cable tie to hold the battery in place.
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i am considering swapping the boards. i dont like to do that if i dont have to, with old stuff you can end up with both not working. there is no line, its totally blank. when it goes off, it looks like a white square that very quickly shrinks and disappears.
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That is just high voltage decay inside the tube. You are getting no video information at all to the monitor. If you have a PE it could be because of open traces from the HOT resistor in the middle of the board. It gets so hot it can open traces. On a PE plus board it could be a bad CAP chip or the 40 pin (last 2 numbers 45) video chip near the MPU chip.
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i swapped chassis boards. both CRTs are good, the bad unit has a bad chassis board. now, do i buy the 95.00 one, have mine repaired, or try to repair it myself?
thanks
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Call Larry we can fix it, we have the tester for that board, 702-363-9998