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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Other Reel Games => Topic started by: MMoney on July 25, 2022, 04:03:16 PM
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Hello,
I'm a newbie here.....wife wanted a quarter slot to play and use as a pseudo bank. I purchased this one at an auction after making sure it worked well....paid out, etc. It has no key , and I know I'll need to get in there to unjam it some day. I'm not sure whether it's original or is a repo....it has no serial number on the outside anywhere. I see videos on rekeying, etc....but are these pickable to get to that point? If not, I'm not dead set against drilling the lock and replacing with a reproduction, as the machine (assuming the whole machine's not a reproduction) is not part of any of our collections (yet...ha). Thank you in advance.......fascinating material here on these forums!!!
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That appears to be an original mills lock. I would try to NOT drill it out as it would be expensive to replace.
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Welcome to NLG! :wave:
How much did you pay for it?
It appears original, but the award card may be a reproduction. I'm going to PM another member that has a much better eagle eye than I do.
I would say this is a late 40's Mills high top with the cool mystery payout.
You CAN pick the lock. It looks original, it's worth it to re-key and we can refer you to people that can do that.
I watched Youtube videos, bought a simple pick kit and picked the lock of my 1927 Jennings in two minutes.
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Thank you for the replies....picking it would be worth trying then....can you send me a link to the type of pick kit you used? I didn't know they were pickable, as the keys are not the type I'm famiilar with, and I'd have thought that gambling machines would have had unpickable locks for additional security. Any additional info is much appreciated!!
Oh, I paid 1100 for it.
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MMoney,
Nice looking Hi-Top. I like the color combo. It does look like it has been recently redone. Shorttrackskater is correct on the date range. It could be between the late 40's and early 50's.
As, for the original or repo. It appears original but, you won't really know until you open it up. Does the award card have stamped symbols, or do they look silk screened on? If possible do not drill the lock. I have heard they are difficult to pick. I have not picked one. You may try a local locksmith first. Once open it is fairly easy to re-key. You can find non-matching (lock & key #s) locks for $60+ matching ones for $80+. There is one other way into the machine but it's a last resort. It would require removing the base.
Normally, they would have stamped a serial number on the back of the wood cabinet. You should be able to find that just below the back door. It would be on a small ledge cut across the base of the cabinet.
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My brain is in "move mode" right now as I have to move out of my home in less than a month. So, sorry for my "easy" statement!
63mini is correct - that Mills lock is not as easy to pick as the one on my Jennings. I'd call a few locksmiths and explain what you have. Don't call ANYONE that comes to your home... they're a total waste of time and money. Find an OLD man somewhere that's been in the business for years.
Still... look up the website lockpicking101.com or google search "how to pick Mills slot machine lock," which should get you educated on getting this lock open. Here's a few photos showing what the key looks like. I'm certain you have an original lock there.
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Yes............there IS a serial number stamped in the wood....it was dusty and I didn't see it......595993.....does that give any key info?? And the payout plate is stamped, not silk screened. Thanks for the info!!
Mike
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595993.....does that give any key info??
Mike
Unfortunately, it does not.
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If you can remove the lock take it to a lock smith. He will have you a new key in 20min or less, otherwise drag the whole slot in.
Should be easy to pick with a paper clip and small screw driver.
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The last 2 we opened were opened with a flat blade screwdriver shoved in the key slot and a hearty twist of the screw driver.
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The last 2 we opened were opened with a flat blade screwdriver shoved in the key slot and a hearty twist of the screw driver.
Were you able to salvage the locks after that?
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You have a very nice Mills High Top.
As mentioned before 1940's.
The Ser# looks like you have an original cabinet.
The Mills Locks are very unique in design. The Keys & locks have numbers on them.
If you can get it open you can go on EBay & try to match the numbers?
It would be a shame to drill the lock, but, if you do you can always purchase the Locks with key on EBay. They are not cheap.
There was a place in Denver who made those keys. That was over 50 years ago.
The machine also may have a steel plate covering the Cash Box. If it does you may find another Mills Lock.
I have a couple of Mills Machines.
One is a .05 cent Castle Front. I had it redone & after removing the Drill Proof Sides there was a Factory Mills Label inside. It was dated 12-26-35.
It has the Silent Mechanism. It's a littler softer sound.
I also have a .25 cent Black Cherry Machine.
These will last forever. The ones made now will not.
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The last 2 we opened were opened with a flat blade screwdriver shoved in the key slot and a hearty twist of the screw driver.
Were you able to salvage the locks after that?
Yes............that would solve the problem....as a last resort, although I'm not really worried about having to buy a new lock if this one gets stripped out....I restore Muscle cars and know all about paying up for original equipment...ha.
On another track........what are 'Mystery Payouts" ? Random payouts that are not determined by reel character sequence, but by a counter? Or are they determined by character sequence and can be set by the user??
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I have used "shaved" Mills keys to pick Mills locks. Basically a key that can be jiggled and rocked between the two tumbler paths, depressing the tumblers fully while putting tension on the lock cylinder.
Once you understand how the tumblers are situated, it's not that difficult to pick the lock using conventional lock picking tools. And once it's opened, you can disassemble the lockL Using a random Mills key inserted into it, grind and file the tumblers flush with the rotating cylinder diameter.
It will then work as intended, although the numbers won't match. Not a huge deal though and it's much better than a non-Mills lock assembly.
Keep the original lock if at all possible.
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I have used "shaved" Mills keys to pick Mills locks. Basically a key that can be jiggled and rocked between the two tumbler paths, depressing the tumblers fully while putting tension on the lock cylinder.
:agreepost: Perfect! There will be an even greater chance of it opening if it has been previously filed/re-keyed.
ramegoom, can you post a pic of your "shaved" key? Is it just some material removed from the top and bottom of the key to allow more movement?
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yes, please post a pic of the 'shaved' key......any Mills key can be filed similarly, I'd assume?