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Author Topic: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse  (Read 1465 times)

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Offline Tryingtolearn1

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Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« on: October 08, 2021, 03:54:39 PM »
Hello, neighbor brought over a slot machine to see if I could get it working. I’ve never messed with a slot machine before or any electronics but trying to get educated. I picked the lock to get inside ( no keys) discovered the logic board is quite corroded up from the typical battery leakage ( battery had already been removed) I assumed the logic board was all I needed to be replaced ( which I haven’t been able to find a new one and could use advice as to finding one so far my emails haven’t gotten me in contact with anyone) I also discovered the 1st fuse on the left was blown it had a buss agc5 250v fuse in it, replaced fuse nothing changed ( fuse didn’t blow) pulled out the coin hopper and seen the plug that goes to the board on the bottom right was disconnected, powered on and fuse blows ( and that’s with the logic board out of the machine, kinda thought maybe the bad board was causing the fuse to blow) the only lights on the door that work are the fluorescents and one bulb displaying the payout info ( and yes the bulbs are good) sorry for the long post but wanted to Be as descriptive as possible. I would greatly appreciate any help on trying to get this going again and can send more pictures, I appreciate your patience with me as this is all new, but addicting!

Offline Tryingtolearn1

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2021, 03:56:47 PM »
Outside of what works
« Last Edit: October 12, 2021, 08:57:19 AM by shortrackskater »

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2021, 04:00:43 PM »
The other pics

Offline Tryingtolearn1

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2021, 04:42:04 PM »
Just pulled the front display to inspect more looks like it got hot! Would this be why the fuse blows? And like I said I’ve never worked with circuit boards but is this repairable? Or do I need to add it to my parts to find list.....

Offline Trisail

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2021, 05:02:12 PM »
Sounds like you found the reason the fuse blew - when you plugged the coin hopper back in. Seems to me that would be the logical place to start.

Display looks a bit off, it could be repaired. But if it does not cause the fuse to blow - get that working 1st and go from there. Or leave the coin hopper unplugged and see if you can get the machine operating, it should not need the coin hopper installed to play, just needed when cash out.

The board you have the white circle around the connector - that looks like the power supply. Replace caps on that and see what you get. If that is the connector you plugged in and blew the fuse - then the power supply is bad.
Tony

You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

Offline Tryingtolearn1

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #5 on: October 08, 2021, 05:16:01 PM »
Sorry I guess I did forget to clarify, I never re installed the coin hopper so it does blow the fuse without it being installed, and yes that plug I circled was what I found unplugged and definitely agree it should be the power supply, what would be the caps you mention? And the machine does and did still turn on without that plug being hooked up it just didn’t light up the small bulbs just the fluorescence ( the small bulbs are dc from what I’ve read?) and your thoughts are the display board would not be the culprit of the blown fuse just a bad component on the power board? Thanks for the response by the way!!

Offline Trisail

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2021, 06:40:19 PM »
Ok. Let's recap what I believe you have.

You picked the lock.
Checked the logic board, found old corrosion around battery.
Looking for replacement board.
The fuse was blown.
Replaced the fuse,  nothing changed, you posted it didn't blow. I must assume you powered the machine on with the logic board out.
Pulled the hopper out, noticed the connector disconnected from what we believe is the PS. Connected that connector and powered on, the fuse blew.
The logic board is out.
The 120VAC florescents work and another lamp for payouts, I will assume it is a florescent also.
The bulbs are good - assume you are talking about the other bulbs for the buttons and such, not florescents.

The florescents are powered from the 120VAC (fused of course and probably feed from one of the other fuses that is and was good) That is normal. For the machine to function,  play a game, it will need a functional logic board and power supply. No low voltage (AC or DC) type device in the machine will work without these 2 items working.

So you have responded that you believe the power supply is probably bad. I am not sure from the picture if that is actually the power supply for the machine. It is close to the hopper connector and could most likely be the hopper drive board. If it is, unplug it and see if the fuse blows.

Don't remember where the power supply was on the Jennings I worked on or what it looked like. Your 150 manual may give you a hint what it looks like and you might be able to find it your machine.

I would make the assumption the logic board may be ok. The person that took the battery out may have got it working as there are some repairs that look like have been done. The white wires. They could be factory mod, but it doesn't look that way to me.

With the hopper connector? unplugged and the logic board reinstalled see if the fuse still blows. If it does, you will need to determine what that fuse feeds. A schematic will make that easier, but not impossible without it, or even a schematic that is close can help immensely. Detective time.
If the fuse does not blow, then you need to figure out if the power supply is working. If it isn't, try replacing all the Aluminum electrolytic capacitors to try to get it working.

As for the display board being good or bad. Test that theory by plugging it in and see if fuse blows, unplug and see if fuse blows. Probably don't need it plugged in like the hopper to see if the logic board will power up. You will need it working to see the codes that may be displayed when you can tell if the machine is trying to work.

Get the power supply working ( not the hopper driver board if that is what you connected ) and go from there. It sounds to me that is the most logical place to start.

Post pictures of items you need help determining the function. There are members here that work on and know a lot more about Jennings machines than me. I repair and troubleshoot machines.

I hope you can get it going and enjoy the challenge. It will be a bit of a challenge but rewarding when you get it working. Many here to help you with whatever you need.

« Last Edit: October 08, 2021, 06:57:40 PM by Trisail »
Tony

You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

Offline Tryingtolearn1

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #7 on: October 10, 2021, 01:19:13 PM »
Thank you for the info and things to try, been still scratching my head and blowing fuses! Pulled off that power board to inspect that a quarter fell out behind the black part with the fins thought maybe that was shorting things inspected and re installed same thing... I did notice some damage to the larger blue battery shaped thing it has that growth and some cracks in it I think I got some good pictures, so where I am at now I removed coin hopper, removed the 3 reels, removed the logic board fuse still blows... machine turns on fluorescents work, the 2 tiny bulbs that light the pay line display light up, and 1 tiny bulb for the what combinations are for the prizes, but that’s the only thing on the door that works....would definitely appreciate any advice!

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #8 on: October 10, 2021, 01:38:33 PM »
I am under the impression that is has to be a component on this board, I can re install all of the components and disconnect the plug to this board and the fuse won’t blow, with that plug disconnected the only thing I observe is the call attendant button does not turn on the candle light on top of the cabinet which it will do with the fuse blown

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #9 on: October 10, 2021, 03:18:02 PM »
Finally was able to pull up the Jennings info I have.

That looks to be the power supply board. With fuse blowing immediately, I am pretty sure the the silver devices ( power transistors ) mounted on the black heatsink are shorted. At least one, if not both, and possibly more devices on the board. And the blue battery looking device is a capacitor, both of those and any other aluminum electrolytic capacitors will need to be replaced. You will need a replacement board or you can try to repair that one. If you do not do that type of work I can try to repair it for you. PM me.

You can also search the Forum for the Jennings machines here which is where you have posted, for some members that may have parts. Send them a PM with what you are looking for. I am sure they would be glad to help with parts and information.

One name that came up was Alan at KLAR. there is a link on the home page if you would like to contact.

ramegoon also came up. Looks like he is active on here also.

Not sure who is most knowledgeable on here with the Jennings machines.

Tony

You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2021, 02:15:47 PM »
Hi TryingToLearn, I just replied to your email.
 
The small lamps all run on 24V DC. If any of them light, that part of the power supply is ok. Something to be careful of is that they don't have proper holders. If a bulb is absent, the spring that's supposed to contact the back of the bulb can contact the PCB instead and short out the 24V supply.
 
I have odds and scraps of manuals, I attach a picture of the fuse wiring. It appears the left hand fuse goes to the 12V winding, which supplies the 5V section of the power supply. If this fuse is blowing without the logic board plugged in, then the 5V regulator is suspect, because the 5V supply has a 4 amp current limit that shouldn't blow a 5A fuse. The only things that get 5V apart from the logic board are the payout counter on the front, and the solid state relays for the motors. You might trace the wiring for those and look for shorts. I would never dream of trying to repair one of those Jennings power supplies, when for less than $10 I can buy a small 5V 3A switch mode power supply from Digikey. Even cheaper from Ali Baba.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/xp-power/LCW15US05/15189240
 

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #11 on: October 11, 2021, 10:42:46 PM »
Aha! I read a bit more carefully this evening. So a quarter fell out from behind the heat sink (finned thing)? That may have done some damage. Anyway here is the schematic for the power supply, and the wire color chart. It's a bit awkwardly drawn and difficult to follow. The 12V AC comes in on wires 33 (orange) and 37 (orange/violet) that go only to the bridge rectifier, lower left, marked YH148. That component is the first failure point to blow the fuse. The DC output from the bridge rectifier goes to the capacitor alongside it, marked 5000uF 16V, which is one of the "blue battery looking things". That is the second failure point to blow the fuse. Rectifiers are robust and difficult to break but big capacitors die of old age, and the one you photographed above looks sick, with electrolyte oozing through the seal. I would try snipping its end wire to disconnect it. The PSU won't run without it but it won't be damaged either, and most of all, if that's the problem it won't blow the fuse. Make sure it's the RIGHT CAPACITOR (5000uF 16V). The 5000 doesn't much matter but the voltage does.

That style of capacitor with leads at both ends is difficult to find today. I could only find one at Digikey and it cost $25. But this one will do the job for a couple of bucks (plus about $10 shipping) -
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/united-chemi-con/EKYB160ELL562ML25S/4843687
Make sure you put it in the right way round. It has a positive and negative end.
 
If you want to replace both of them, not a bad idea while you're doing one, here's a replacement for the 50V capacitor -
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/LGY1H562MELZ50/2540835
That one doesn't have any leads at all, just stubby pins. You'll have to glue it to the PCB and connect it with wires, observing polarity again.


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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #12 on: October 12, 2021, 05:37:30 AM »
That original power supply is a triple output power supply. 24VDC  12 VDC  and 5VDC.

I would find a replacement instead of trying to repair. You can get 3 individual power supplies or any combination of outputs in 1 or 2 power supplies. I don't know the current rating (watts) for each supply. Maybe someone has already done the footwork to find replacements and will see your post and suggest something.

You could purchase parts and try a repair, may be costly. New switch mode supplies are reasonable and would last years.

The schematic will help with which voltage is on which pin on the connector. I posted a PDF and a JPG.
Tony

You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #13 on: October 12, 2021, 09:11:48 AM »
I did that a couple of years ago. You can also remove that large transformer from the game.
Let them that don't want any, have memories of not getting any.

Offline Tryingtolearn1

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update!!
« Reply #14 on: October 19, 2021, 05:56:09 PM »
Just want to give an update, and let everyone know again I truly appreciate your guys’s Help! As someone who has never worked on a slot machine all of the input has been huge helping me to learn! So I received a new power supply board and no more blowing the dreaded fuse! However, machine still doesn’t “function”  with the new power supply board the front display seems to basically all work even the red pay out light display and the counter on the side clicks when you flick the switch for the quarter intake however after very quickly flicking the anti string switch it never registers as coin accepted so it won’t spin, pretty certain due to some of the solder connections and the corrosion and sickly looking components on the logic board that is where I remain stalled, not sure if there are error codes on the red payout display but sometimes it will change when I press the reset button on the logic board, never had the call attendant light come on and have also reset that switch controlled by the key lock on the cabinet, I’ll gladly take anymore advice and am currently working on finding a replacement logic board, thanks again!!!

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #15 on: October 19, 2021, 09:41:45 PM »
Did you read the post on how to bypass the need for a battery?
Turn your board over and see if someone has already did it.
Let them that don't want any, have memories of not getting any.

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #16 on: October 20, 2021, 06:20:50 PM »
I stumbled across that post awhile ago and thought I had read the battery was just for the memory if the power was lost, and thought it would still function without...correct me if I’m wrong! I got ahold of the guy from jenningsslots.com through his eBay account, he says he can repair boards for them and I’m working on getting info on how to make that happen...

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #17 on: October 20, 2021, 06:22:11 PM »
The other side

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #18 on: October 20, 2021, 06:42:07 PM »
Half the chips on the board are CMOS chips and are only powered by the battery voltage.
If there is no battery those chips are not powered, if there WAS a battery it probably leaked and ate some of the board.
The solution is to connect the CMOS chips to the 5 volt supply so ALL of the chips on the board have power and the game will work, most times.
Let them that don't want any, have memories of not getting any.

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Re: Jennings 400 blowing first fuse
« Reply #19 on: October 20, 2021, 07:08:17 PM »
Awesome clarification on that! I will see if I can find those old post telling you how to do so,

 

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