New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: ContraAl on November 15, 2017, 02:05:34 PM
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Howdy all,
I just started a second project. It's a s-5500 my father got a while ago. It worked at the time but then it sat in the garage, unplugged for about 10 years. The first attempt to bring it to life, the lights would come on and the speaker would make a whop, whop, whop noise and nothing else functioned. At the time the hopper would move forward and backward but one time it got stuck (frozen) where a coin got jammed behind the knife and the cycle buttons stopped working. I was able to free the coin but now there is a solid red and amber light on the hopper. (see pic)
I replaced the battery and tried the jumper/reset procedure with no luck. The manual just says look for the error codes but the display is blank. Turning the reset key doesn't have and affect. So, here are my noob questions.
1) When I turn on the machine, the hopper never stops spinning. At this point, the hopper is empty. The book said the hopper should stop 30-45 seconds after power up. Does this sound like normal operation?
2) I have changed the battery and re-seated all of the proms. Would a bad MPU cause the display to stop functioning?
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I would suspect the power supply, which is mounted to the back wall, there is a replaceable powersupply with in that box, it supplies all the operating voltages for the machine.
Jim
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Ok. I’ll check that. I found a diagram for the pin outs.
Does the hopper need to be full to get the machine to function?
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If its good, the J10 jumper ram clear only will work on a machine with certain type mains in the machine ,I think 9200 series??
Jim
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Ok... making progress. I started probing the white power supply connector. When I touched the 21Vac return line (pin 15) with the VOM the reset light came back to life. The reels adjusted themselves, the dollar thing made noise and the display said 83f. ‘Bout fricken time.
I jumpered j10 and did a full clear. It took two times but now I show a CL C.
Woo hoo. All I need now are safe ram chips and it should come back to life although pin 10 was 6 Vdc, 11 was -6.87 Vdc, 9 was 3.5 Vdc, 12 was 25.8 Vdc, 14 was 9.86 and 15 was 9.58.
It appears the power supply might be a little weak but my meter could be afu as well.
Now for some chip hunting.
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I would check that power supply connector carefully. Make sure the pins and contacts are snug, have good tension. And that the wires are attached solidly to the metal pins and their contacts. Look for signs of corroded, tarnished metal, or darkened places where the contacts got overheated. It could be a bad power supply, or simply some flaky electrical connections. If you stuck a meter probe in and things got better that tells me that connection you are probing isn't good.
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I think you are right about a bad connection somewhere. Check out these pics. Wires to nowhere. :Crazy: I'm hesitant to just remove all the added in wires because the board might be programmed for an extra device (since removed)
Anyone know what these connectors might be for?
Oh, and I'm back to the no display, constant hopper turn condition again.. :Scratch-Head:
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A lot of times wires and wiring cables that don't look like part of the original factory wiring are wires added by the casino when they install their player tracking equipment or other stuff like maybe a progressive jackpot for a bank of machines or for connecting the machine to the backroom server. Then when they get rid of the machine they remove the equipment to use again on a different machine, but they leave the old wires/cables in there, not worth the time to remove them. Many owners remove the excess wiring, or at least wrap it up into a neat bundle out of the way.
If you see a wiring harness/cable that isn't connected to anything on each end and it is obviously not part of the original factory wiring you can remove it. It usually isn't tied up neatly with the original wiring harnesses, is just strung from here to there. Or you can leave it there, it won't hurt anything except adding clutter.
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I think I found the problem (or at least the lowest common denominator).
Drum roll, please.....
It's a bad power supply! Check out the pics!
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I think what you think is leakage is actually a glue used when assembling the board. This is a pic of the same glue on a power supply board out of a S2000..
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Interesting. Could be glue all the way up the side of the cap.
Do you think I could just replace the board with something like this? I found this suggestion from another post.
63.5W Power Supply Board For Bally Slots (https://na.suzohapp.com/products/power_supplies/80-1178-00) Part Number: 80-1178-00
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/power_supplies&FNAME=MFG_NAME&FVAL=Bally&FUOM= (https://na.suzohapp.com/products/power_supplies&FNAME=MFG_NAME&FVAL=Bally&FUOM=)
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That I don't know, but what I do know is that Surohapp have a $100 min order limit. :duh: Your best bet might be to post a WTB ad here in the classified for a good used power supply. Most Bally 5500/6000 use the same power supply's.
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check the voltage and current ratings on the power supply you have, usually there is a sticker on the side of a big cap that will have the ratings. I think that power supply has three output voltages, +5vdc, +12vdc and -12vdc. here is one that I have used to replace that power supply.
www.jameco.com/z/PT-65B-MEAN-WELL-63-5-Watt-Open-Frame-Triple-Output-AC-DC-Power-Supply-5V-5-5A-12V-2-5A-12V-0-5A_216734.html (http://www.jameco.com/z/PT-65B-MEAN-WELL-63-5-Watt-Open-Frame-Triple-Output-AC-DC-Power-Supply-5V-5-5A-12V-2-5A-12V-0-5A_216734.html)
If I remember correctly, it has the same mounting hole and its the same size, you would have to double check the pin outputs to ensure they are the same.
Hope this helps
Jim