Coin Comparitors and Other Coin acceptors > Coin Comparitors and Other Coin acceptors

Testing a CC-16 24v IGT

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850mph:
I’ve spent a couple of hours on this forum, on YouTube, and with the manuals… but still have a couple of questions about the CC-16 24v used in the S+….

I get it, there were dozens of models made, and somewhere on this site there is a good list of what acceptor goes with what machine.

Couple of questions

1) Are the letters and numbers AFTER the “16” in the device name simply a REVISION code?
— ie CC-16 D 100
— the thing that matters are the two grey wires going to the rake, indicating 24v AC device

2) I have what I assume is an early version of the CC-16 with a RED LED
— Or, has someone perhaps replaced the LED?
— Does it function differently?

3) Does the GREEN LED on the 24v unit (IGT) only light up when the door is closed and door optics line up?
— I have seen video of the MICRO COMPARITOR (purple label) on a workbench where the green light is active all the time
— Perhaps on the 16v DC units the green light stays on all the time?

4) supposedly there are three states to the CC-16 which are indicated by the LED (Green, Red, Orange)
— Are there ways to FORCE these states for testing purpose?
— Or am I confuse and this color system is not available on the CC-16, with only one LED?

5) I understand the S+ coin-in optics controller unit can be tested from the S+ Test diagnostic system
— any way to test the CC-16 from the diagnostic system
— (some posts say the green light stays on when in the test mode…??)

And finally, if you’ve got what might be a dead comparitor…

On MY SPECIFIC unit, the previous owner bent back the rake so all coins drop through into the coin-in optics…

Obviously this implies there is something wrong with the unit…

Without metering the jumpers— is there a simple mechanical way to determine if my CC-16 is functioning correctly?

Here’s the thing…. When these units were $25-30 it made sense to simply replace a malfunctioning unit without testing…. But now at what looks like $100+ on eBay… it makes sense to come up with a more specific diagnosis… am I wrong about this? Or are these units just too complicated for the average joe to even attempt to repair once bad connections/shorts can be ruled out?

Thnx.

Stayouttadabunker:
I have no idea what the letters are for....never needed to know except for this...>>>
CC16-D is for small denomination coins.
CC33-D is for large denomination coins.
Only use 24VAC comparitor boards with the gray wires for an S+.

Many homeslot owners don't know what sized encoder guide is sandwiched in between the coin-in optic boards under the CC.
If they have the encoder for large denomination tokens, nickels and quarters will miss the optics, not register as credit to the MPU, and drop the coins back into the coin tray.

The LED diode on the CC ONLY comes on when the door optics "see" each other...either visually or bypassed in continuity.
Jump the purple and red wires together for the emitter & reciever harnesses and the LED diode on the CC comes on.
It doesn't matter what color it is.....I've seen red, amber, and green ones.

In my opinion, someone that bends the rake back is just too lazy to replace the capacitor on the CC circuit board....but ordering, then replacing caps and soldering is too hard to do right? lol

Any CC test unit you make MUST allow the coins to drop from 2" ABOVE the CC to work correctly as the CC computes time and speed of the coin falling thru the unit.
Personally, I made a "Frankenstein" tester...everything is exposed on a bench...outside of any cabinet.

Jim:
since you have a belly door machine you can take the coin comp. bracket off and drop the belly door and watch the entire operation of the cc-16 etc.  you will see if the LED comes on.

turn the adjustment all the way ccw.
measure the voltage across the large cap on the cc-16 board, should be around 19vdc.

with the rake bent out of the way, does it accept a coin and establish a credit??

Hope this helps.

Jim   

850mph:
Thnx…..
And YES the machine accepts the coin and gives a credit….
I can play this machine … no problems with credits and payouts and diagnostics.
Will test CC-16 through belly door and test voltages when the sun comes up!
Cheers.

850mph:
Now here’s a SURPRISE!

I swapped out an undamaged (no bent rake) CC16 with the unit I was using with a bent rake…
and…
The second unit works just fine—
Rejects non quarters to tray, accepts quarters, drops to/through coin ops which gives credits, and drops to hopper…
The unit also rejects all coins when a sample coin is NOT inserted in the comparitor

Then….

I bent back the rake on the first unit back into the correct position…
and…
The first unit works perfectly with quarters also.


I now have a couple of working CC-16, and a couple of questions.
..

QUESTION

1) if output test 2-34 correctly lights the CC-16 LED
— does that mean ITS LIKELY THE WHOLE UNIT works, or simply that it’s getting power?

2) if the LED lights up when passed through belly door when door is closed
— does that mean it’s LIKELY THE WHOLE UNIT works, or simply that it’s getting power?

FINALLY

Although I can hold my own with a multi meter around the house with mechanical stuff…
I’m no genius with a multi meter on PC boards and don’t want to blow my units up.

From experience I know PC boards are generally DC voltage, and batteries and board components should be measured with DC voltage multimeter settings.

But let me ask before I test the BIG capacitor on the CCs board just for kixxx as Jim suggests…

The CC16 is pulling down 24 volts AC, right?

So should the BIG capacitor in the unit be measured pulling AC voltage?
-or-
As Jim suggests above should the cap be pulling around 19 volts DC?

Just double checking.

Thanks..

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