New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S2000 and Vision Games => Topic started by: GT350 on November 11, 2016, 07:10:50 PM
-
I've purchased my first slot machine for my "man cave" and when I plugged it in nothing happened. I eventually found out that it was unplugged on the inside and plugged it in. Only the interior work light came on then I found the power switch and woo hoo lots of lights but a call attendant message came on. I searched and read what I could find and now I think I might have messed it up more because the led light on the edge of the mother board that were lit before are not now and when it's powered up it now says EEPROM error and an alarm goes off. I'm not even sure if I have all the parts, I know the cash can is missing so I put a peace of duct tape on the micro switch and I do here the bill validator run. I'm hoping someone is willing to be patient enough with me to help me get this working. The pics below will hopefully help you help me I'm not really sure where to start. Thanks in advance!
P.S. I've posted this here because I think it's an igt s2000. Please let me know if I'm wrong
-
2 of 3
-
3 of 3
-
Try to clear the error. When you get the EEPROM error, open the main door and turn the jackpot reset key on the side of the machine, above the pull handle. The message should change to hold the reset button 2 or 3 seconds, this is the little button below the lights on the MPU board. You have to hold the button down 3 seconds or so until the message on the display changes. Then you close and latch the door and see what happens.
-
Okay, done no change
-
So what happens when you turn the jackpot reset key at the eeprom error?
-
It changed the message to this
-
Is there corrosion beneath the green varta battery?
-
After the EEPROM device error, turn the jackpot reset key again, and see if the message changes.
-
Is that the battery on the motherboard?
This is the next message
-
Should I have held the jackpot key while holding the reset button?
-
Looking at the pic of the board there is a large amount of corrosion from the varta battery. That may be part of your problem.
-
I'm more curious about the vendor. Did you buy this machine with the understanding that it would be working when you received it?
Thanks,
Jason
-
When the alarm first goes off turn the attendant key 4 times with main door open. Message should be press self test switch for 2-3 seconds .. hold in for 5. Close door and see if it will fire up.
Might have to do this a second time also.
-
Verta battery found, yes a lot of corrosion on it. I tried to remove it and it's stuck pretty good. Is there any thing I need to be extra careful of when removing the battery? I planned to use a knife to carefully separate the terminals from the battery
-
Once you get the machine running. Do as you mention with the knife and then remove the excess corrosion. Clean area with mild vinegar solution, rinse and allow to dry.
-
You don't press the reset button at the same time as the jackpot reset key switch. Just keep turning the key until you get the message about holding the reset buttton for 2 or 3 seconds. the error should clear and machine should work. Then follow the direction about removing the varta battery. Some users just use cutters and cut the battery just above the pcb and leave the legs behind. Be sure to clean the area out of all the corrosion. Hopefully there's no corrosion damage to the pcb under it.
-
I've tried turning the key many times both fast and slow and it doesn't give me tha 2-3 seconds message it just says to wait while it checking the memory and then the alarm goes off again
-
Sometimes you have to go through the procedure a few times. If you don't ever get out of the "loop" then your next steps is to perform a clear (which would require a clear eprom). If that doesn't work, then you may indeed have corrosive damage to the board and you will have to buy another MPU board.
-
OK I'll keep trying. I'm a little confused about the battery and the corrosion. After removing the the battery do I replace it with a new one or just leave it out? Is there any reason I need to get the machine working before I remove the battery and clean off the corrosion?
-
You don't have to. I just prefer to make sure the machine works before I put more time into it than I have too.
-
Ok the alarm quit going off and I have a call attendant message and I never got the 2-3 seconds message and as I sit here the alarm has one beep every once and a while which the door shut
-
I'm making progress:)) I was inspecting the motherboard and found that one of the pins that plug in when it slides in was bent. I straightened it and whim I turned it on the wheels al spun around and got a new message
It shows there is no cash etc and a message that the main battery is low call attendant closure M
Is the main battery the green varta battery or the round one? Also the round one isn't connected on the bottom
-
The main battery is the round one and it should be above 2.8 volts and must be connected, anything lower it must be replaced. Green battery not needed for home use.
-
Good find on the bent pin. You're learning quickly. There are coin battery holders available from vendors/online that you can solder to the board. This will make changing batteries a snap down the road. Just make sure to get the polarity right. Either way there will be soldering involved so may as well put the holder in.Good looking machine, by the way. Welcome to NLG! On a side note, be careful cleaning those strips. It looks like you have the type that cannot be cleaned with any liquid. I had not seen them before but, judging from your first few pics, that's what you've got.
-
:thank_you: Thanks everyone for all the help so far!!! I'll get the battery changed out and the be back with the outcome and hopefully able to report that it is working :thank_you:
-
The main battery is the one I highlighted inside the red square. The picture you posted is a capacitor on the Multimedia lite board.
-
He was showing the bent pin in that picture.
-
I've removed the green battery and cleaned the corrosion. I soldered in a double AA battery holder and double back taped it to the outside of the MPU without removing the old battery. It tested at 3.53 volts. I fired it up and got a ram error so I tried the jackpot key 4 times and got the 2-3 seconds message. Held for 5, and shut the door. Now I have a massage that says the main foot is open. I've repeated this menu time pushed the door in harder, nothing
-
Main door errors can often be connected to the varta battery damaging the board. Can't say for sure, though. You can find threads on bypassing the door optics using a spare cherry switch. I've done it to one of my machines and it works well. However, this would only cure the problem if the optics are bad or not lining up. It will not cure board issues. At least that is my understanding.
-
Your understanding of the optic by-pass is correct. It only solves bad optics. If the board has the damage, then he will have to get a replacement.
When closing the door, are you latching it close, or just closing the door. You must latch for the optics to line up. Also inspect the optic cables make sure they are not disconnected or broken.
-
I have a feeling you will need a replacement mpu. Also noticed the heat sink @ u-86 is missing.
-
Good eye, Ed. I looked closely at the tracings but could not tell the extent of damage. My first S2000 had the same problem. I tried the bypass first and it did nothing. Changing the MPU did the trick. Never can tell though, it may be worth trying the bypass first.
-
If your going to own a S2000, you better keep a spare MPU around. It seems to me that the S2000's are drying up from the casino's. Get your parts while they are still available and affordable.
-
I've bypassed the door optics, no change. Is the heat sink the little cage thing? If so I removed it for cleaning purposes and reinstated it after the picture was taken.
Yearlier someone suggested a clear, is that worth trying before changing the mpu ? If the battery was dead would that lose something that would need reinstalled?
If I need to replace the mpu that's fine but I will need some good hand holding
I keep meaning to thank you all for such quick responses!! :thank_you:
-
A clear would not fix an main door open issue. It is a good idea to have spare MPU's anyway. Getting them right now while parts are plentiful and inexpensive is the way to go. If you plan on keeping this machine for the long term. I would get a couple spares. First thing you do is remove the varta battery to avoid what you are going through. I recommend you get a clear and a key chip as well. Clears are rarely ever needed, only for certain stubborn errors that won't clear. Most of the the time a key chip is all you really need.
-
Have you checked the belly door switch to make sure it is closing? Have you confirmed main door optics alignment? Have you checked to make sure main door optics themselves are working? Are you sure the main door is latching completely?
Just some things to look at before you throw the board out...
-
I've bypassed the door optics and when I did there was a loose leed on the door sensor but still getting the same message.
I'm not sure how to verify the belly door switch is working but it does appear to be striking and closing
-
You can check it with a voltmeter, but thise cherry switches don't often go bad. Did you bypass the optics by tapping the wire on the door or did you trace it back to it's source at the plug and tap it as short as you could? On mine I just run a 2 ft piece of zip cord from the cherry switch to the optics plug in the harness bundle by the motherboard
-
I used the leads from the optics so I could make up a jumper at my bench and plug it in to the cherry and the wire on the door and the cabinet
-
Did you do something like this for the bypass? Also, is there a striker on the door side that lines up with the cherry switch? I had 1 machine that was missing the striker. I had to steal one from one of my S+ machines.
-
Yes that's exactly what I did, I used that same diagram. Yes the strike is where it should be and making contact as the latch moves up and down
-
You are going to have to try a different board. As others stated it never hurts to have another around. I hate to have you throwing parts at it but from out here we can't have our hands on your machine. That makes things more difficult to diagnose. I am thinking that all the steps have been taken to try to eliminate all but the board. Prices vary widely so be smart. I see them as high as $150+. I think I paid $45 for my last one but I had bought a bunch of stuff from the guy. I'd look here on NLG first. You tend to get a little better pricing. If I see something I'll PM you. My bad board was a 1952-0 and I replaced it with the same. I don't know enough to say what is better or worse but someone will probably chime in.
-
Thanks, I'll look around for one but I know absolutely nothing about what could be used in place of exactly what I have, so please chime in! :thank_you:
-
504B is best without upgrading it and the motherboard to 1270 enhanced
-
I've read several things about when removing the varta battery that a jumper wire is needed and or removing other components. Does this apply to my machine?
How do I identify which board I have?
Do I have more options when I change the board than to replace it with the same one?
Is there any missing from my board? It seams to me that there should maybe be a memory card in the two empty spaces.
-
You have a 500 series board, likely 502. The battery is the only thing to remove and no jumpers
-
your board looks nasty where the battery was removed and the surrounding area. Have you tried rewashing it with some baking soda both front and back?
-
No I haven't, just a water and baking soda mix? Does the battery need to be discounted to wash it?
-
Vinegar the battery is alkali you need to neutralize with a mild acid. Mild solution of vinegar and water followed by lots of plain water.
I doubt your going to save that board it looks pretty bad.
-
Remove the daughter board before washing and try to avoid getting water under your processor chip also
-
Thanks Q, I get the cleaner wrong all the time because I always think of what I use on my car battery. Has hasn't cost me yet though, lol!
-
I've read several things about when removing the varta battery that a jumper wire is needed and or removing other components. Does this apply to my machine?
How do I identify which board I have?
Do I have more options when I change the board than to replace it with the same one?
Is there any missing from my board? It seams to me that there should maybe be a memory card in the two empty spaces.
The jumpers aren't needed. The board I bought has them but I have others that do not and they work fine. To identify your board remove the lite board that is piggy backed on one side. Not really necessary though. We know what series you have and someone already chimed in on what your choices are. No memory goes on the board (SIMMS). Those remain empty. I've dealt with Darell at slots4home and Jim at midwest slots. Both are good guys. Give them a try. There are plenty of vendors here who can help you out.
-
What cash box would I need and what does it take to upgrade to be able to accept new bills
-
Cash box first, new bills later. Get it running first. It may already accept new bills.
-
You need a WBA cash can.
-
I got a package from Ohio Gaming today and my machine is up and running :dancing_2:
Thanks Ohio Gaming!!
How do I remove the cash box
-
:cool_thumb_up: Good job! :cool_thumb_up: I've been wondering about this. Does it accept new bills?
-
Glad to hear everything is working good.
There is a lever to the right side of the cash box .. I think you push down for a WBA and pull the can out.
Thanks,
Ken
-
Thx
It accepted the new 10s and 20s that's all I've tried so far.
Thanks all for the help
Is the volume adjustable?
If so how?
-
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4953.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=4953.0)
-
Thx
I should have done a search first just forgot
-
Do I need a key chip to change the denomination from .25 to .05? If so what is it/ witch one?
-
To go to a lower denomination you will need a clear chip.
For 500 series boards a clear 97 will work fine. You should also get a key chip if you don't have one key 17 will work but if you get another game with an enhanced board you might want to think about a key 45 it will work for both.