New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: kb8yrw on November 14, 2017, 04:11:44 PM
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Well I finally got back to playing with my slots after a couple life happens circumstances......all better now. Anyway I bought a sick 873 about 2 years ago and never cracked it open. Well I plugged it in and the cooling fan started but not much of anything else. So I decided to check all the connections by removing and reseating everything, ribbon cables molex connectors, even the chips on the boards, I powered it back up and progress! The display lit up the feature lights started flashing and the tilt light was on. I got a copy of the manual and went through some of the troubleshooting. The display shows a 50 000 which I understand is the door open fault. With the door closed I hit the jackpot key and it displays 20 000 then 0 000 alternating. I open the door and checked for a coin jam but nothing there. I hit the reset and it displays 5 then 6 then 7 then 8. I tried to put it in test mode but hitting the test does not change the display off 50 000. I checked the battery on the ram board and it measures 3.6v. Today when I powered it up the display showed a 2 (ram error) for about a minute then display changed to 50 000 and lights started flashing again. I checked the power supply and the 5 volts was 5.2 the 7.5 volts was 7 and the 10 volts was 7.5 which is a bit low. This is a 5 line 3 reel nickel machine. I ordered a clear chip for it but have not got it yet. Power supply problem? Anyone seen this problem before? Thanks in advance for any guidance .
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It sounds like your power supply is the main issue if your 10V is that low. There is a very good after market power supply for sale on Ebay. I have used them quiet often. Double check your power supply plug for burnt and loose connections. If you solder you could remove your old power supply and check the solder joints for the pin header for the main plug. Those solder connections crack and cause bad connections that won't let you game operate properly.. I learned this the hard way with my first ever e-series machine.. Another big problem with these e-series machines are the ribbon cables.. Pins get bent or broken off.. I just did a service on a E-Series game, and it's main problem was broken ribbon cable end pins and the same on the win meter ribbon cable.. Those new power supply's a good insurance policy if your planning on keeping the machine, and even a better one for if your planning on flipping the game. Makes a great selling feature..
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Is this the board your referring to as a replacement?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Power-Supply-Rectifier-Board-for-Bally-AS-2518-18-Stern-TA-100/322557305555?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D8a105355d5ba4949823d94333d236701%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D322557305555&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Power-Supply-Rectifier-Board-for-Bally-AS-2518-18-Stern-TA-100/322557305555?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D8a105355d5ba4949823d94333d236701%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D322557305555&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042)
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While taking out the PS I noticed the black w/green trace wire hanging behind the plug. Looks like it is out of the molex connector. I have not figured out which pin it is supposed to go on....... :Scratch-Head:
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Is that the board next to the hopper plug? That's a relay board used in the early Bally e series. Your hopper board is mounted to the Bach wall behind the hopper and transformer. Let me see if I have a picture of a plug here
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Yeah sure is. Nosing around and the closest thing I could come up with is a delay board for the hopper? I took out the PS and looked at the pins closely and I did find several fractured solder joints so I resoldered the whole board. Wife interrupted my progress :hissyfit: so I didn't get a chance to power it back up. I really appreciate the help
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I looked for that after market power supply and couldn't find the auction? It was there just the other day. I hope the seller is still making them. I only have one left myself. I was a Bata Tester on those new boards about 5 years ago. I tested a proto type for a few months. I did a search in my EBay history but can't go back to when I bought this last batch. Hopefully the seller on vacation or the ad just needs to be updated. Here is a picture of what a new one looks like. If I do see the auction again, I'll be buying a few myself.
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I found an expired auction for the power supply and contacted the seller. He has reposted the auction.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-Power-Supply-E1000-E2000-NEW/172984449383?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Da943cce459c448acb536d52290a0816a%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D172984449383&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-Power-Supply-E1000-E2000-NEW/172984449383?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Da943cce459c448acb536d52290a0816a%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D172984449383&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507)
I got one coming regardless if I end up needing one or not. :dancing_2:
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Thanks for finding that. I just saved it in my watch. Did you figure out that loose wire? The one E Series machine I have here doesn't have your board in it. Do your have a copy of the E Series manual? That plugs pin out might be in the manual. If you look at the plug and the relay board, you might be able to figure out where that wire was before.
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Still chasing my tail with this one. Still getting the 20 000 error when I turn the jackpot key with the door closed. Resoldering the PS did not change anything so hoping the new PS will help. I cant find the schematic for the relay board that has the wire hanging out of the Molex plug. Is the 20 error a coin jam?
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Turning the reset keys not going to fix error cords.. It's used for book keeping and clearing the largest jackpot.. Error codes are usually only two numbers in the win meter.. I'd have to find my paper manual to check error codes
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Okay I think I made some progress. I double checked the coin switch since I was getting the 20 error when I turned the jackpot key. I removed the NO wire and checked the switch, tested good. Powered up the game with the wire off and no change. I put that back on and took off the NC (green/orange) and tested the switch, tested good with meter. I powered up the game with the wire off and the white candle came on and the feature lights stopped flashing. I hit the test button and am now able to run the machine through the tests!!!! I put the wire back on and the machine immediately faults again. Progress?
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One thing with the Bally e Series machines is that you can not try to play them with the door open. If you do they will Tilt. The only way to run them with the door open is in test 8.
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If you send me you email in a PM I think I have a Bally manual in PDF I could send you.
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okay after several Jack and Cokes :Crazy: I went through this !@#$% and checked every wire physically and with a meter. I discovered that apparently the coin switch was wired backwards. Now when I reset the machine close the door it accepts nickels and allows me to spin. It correctly counts the coins 1 thru 5 and properly displays the amount. The handle releases and the reels spin. The first reel stops but the 2nd and 3rd continue to free spin and I get the 42 error saying the 2nd reel failed. I see this as progress for sure. So aside from that problem it still has a couple quirks and is not behaving properly while testing. I put it in test 8 so I can play the game with the door open and it tilts immediately when the coin switch is operated. When I close the door the white candle goes out and it accepts coins. :Scratch-Head: :Scratch-Head: :Scratch-Head: :Scratch-Head: I checked both door switches with the meter and they test fine. The hopper test also does not work (test 4). The hopper does not move. I performed the switch test (3) and all work except the coin switch that tilts the machine immediately with the door open but works with the door closed. The wire I found earlier hanging by the delay board is still hanging and I have not found where it belongs. Obviously this machine has been worked on prior to me getting it so lord only knows what else I will find.
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I sent you a PDF copy of the E-Series manual.. As for your 42 code you need to see if all 5 lights are on in the second reel reader. The disk that that runs thru the reader should be about 1/16" to 1/32" from the left inside edge of the reader.. Sometime removing the readers and cleaning the bulbs will help, but the photo transistor could be weak. I do repair and rebuild the 50V and 5V reel readers. You can swap the 2nd and 3rd reader to see if your error turns to a 43 or 3rd reel error.. It sounds like that loose wire on the relay board could be why your hoppers not working.. I'll keep looking to see if I can find a machines with that relay board. I think I have one, but it's buried in my back room.. At least your making head way.
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Thank you for the manual :thank_you: I moved the second reel reader to the third position and now I get a 43. I tested the bulbs and the third one in is open so I ordered some new #680 bulbs to replace it. Wish I had a local source for this stuff I hate waiting but I have other issues on the machine to work on in the mean time. I need to clean the grease that has turned into glue off the reel arms. I noticed this morning that the arms are sticking and they were free last night when the machine was all warmed up. My rec room is 72 deg but that grease glue gets pretty stiff when the machine is off. Amechanic thank you for taking the time to look for that mystery wire connected to that delay board. I am going to go over the schematics today and see if I can make some sense of it. I am also going to put some power on the hopper motor just to make sure it will run.
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Caution .. If you bench test that hopper motor make sure the hopper control board is disconnected and removed. If you don't you will cause severe damage to that board.
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When your greasing and oiling make sure to do the hand gearbox. Remove the handle plate there is a ratcheting lever in there to grease, plus all the pivot points. You don't need to reinstall that cover, I usually don't. Just put the screws back.
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YEA.. :dancing_2: Good news, I finally got to my E1000 game and got a picture of the plug. I think your connector might be missing the spur or hook that holds it in the plug. See my pic. Sometimes they just get flattened down. If you need a couple I can mail them to you.
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Motor tested out good. I looked over the schematic and took the delay board off to see the back. I measured for voltages on the on the plug and found a 50 Vac on pin 5. From that and following the traces on the board I concluded my missing wire was on pin 2. I checked for voltage on the mystery wire and it has 5vDC. So I put it back in pin 2 and plugged it in and ran test 4, still no hopper movement. So I started doubting my placement of the wire. I decided to check in here and there was your picture confirming my placement of the wire :applause: :thank_you: Thank you for the offer of the terminations but it was just flat as you said. So I am just wondering if this is another test I cannot run like test 8. Test 8 worked a couple times but usually just tilts the machine when I operate the coin switch. When I do the switch test it tilts the machine as well. I close the door and it takes coins and releases the handle so the switch is good. Maybe still a power supply issue? 10 volts is only 7.5. Maybe some more jack and cokes will help, help last night lol.
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I think that your 10V being so low is your main problem. Your 25% down on that voltage.
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Progress....well sort of. I received the new bulbs for the optic reader that was bad and got the installed easy peezy. All the lights come on and test good. The machine accepts coins and plays now but the hopper still will not run on payout. I also received the new power supply so decided to install that and see if it made any difference.......nope. When I hit a payout the bell rings until it times out then tilts with a 32 error (hopper empty.) Maybe I'm not doing it right but when I get the 32 error I open the door hit the reset and the fault will not clear. Cycling the power does not work either. I did find by accident that if I hit the reset and put it in a test mode (doesn't matter which one) before it tilts then reset after the test it clears and will play again. I have checked all the plugs for bad pins and continuity and have not found anything. I guess I need to figure out where the power for the hopper is coming from and see if it is getting signaled to run. I'm suspicious of the delay board since that seems to be inline with the output. Well thought I was in business but back to fingering the schematics again. Oh one other thing it is doing now is the bypass gate on the door that deflects the coins to the overflow is not pulling in so the coins are not dropping into the hopper. When I run the test 2 and it cycles through the coils on the door it pops right in and out. I checked the hopper full switch on the hopper and it is working fine and closes when I push on the hopper. Thought I would mention that because anything can be a clue!
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I think you could have a bad hopper board. Two things usually go bad, first is the two large diodes on the top. I think they are C1 and C2, then the triac mac-15, top right of the hopper board. If your getting the error code 32 is a good sign. That's showing that the payout signal is being sent to the hopper. It's just that the hoppers not running. That's why I suspect you have a bad hopper board. Post a picture of your hopper board so I can see if you have a E1000 or E2000 board.
Sending you a PM.
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Definitely issues on that hopper board. Reed relay 1 has an open coil so it was never going to react to the enable signal. Secondly both triacs test bad. I trigger the gate and nothing. I also measure about 50 ohms from the source to the gate and I should not measure anything. Soooooo waiting for more parts again. I found some sources for the Hamlin reed relays HE321A0400 but good god they want you to buy hundreds at a time or at least have a ridiculous minimum order so I went hunting and found Hamlin makes a HE3321A0400. The pinout looks to be the same and dimensions are very close if not right on the money. 5VDC NO 500 ohm coil and contact rated at 500 ma. I could not find the data sheet for the original but I cant imagine the gate needs 500 ma. Besides I do believe they respond to voltage anyway. I found those reed relays on ebay but they seem to be readily available all over. I'll post my results with them when they come in. I also order new triacs NTE56006 to replace the MAC15-6 . Not much else to go bad on the hopper board except a few diodes but they test good. I think I'm getting close with finishing up this one. Been combing CL for the next dead machine to work on. I would like to get a .10 and a .01 machine but I never see those. Maybe I can convert one?
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Okay got the Triacs and the new Reed relays for the hopper board :applause: Got everything installed and bench tested. Slid the hopper in the machine fired her up and ran a test 4. The hopper started and it spit out exactly 10 coins :dancing_2: I was so happy I did it again! This thing is finally fixed........except. I close the door and start sliding in nickles. The machine is playing great all lights work and its stealing nickles just like it was built to do. Finally I hit a payout and it started paying out.....and it kept paying out.....and paying out......until it tilted with a hopper empty fault 32. Now what? :banghead: Why would it count and stop the hopper motor when the test 4 is run but not count when the machine is paying? The good news is the replacements I found for the reed relays are a perfect fit and function fine. Just for shits and giggles I took the hopper board back out and bench tested the triacs and relays just to make sure nothing nefarious happened and they are fine. Any ideas?
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Try running test 5 to check to see if what on the reel strips is showing up correctly in the Win meter. I've never seen or hear of a run away hopper in the E Series
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..... Finally I hit a payout and it started paying out.....and it kept paying out.....and paying out......until it tilted with a hopper empty fault 32. Now what? :banghead: Why would it count and stop the hopper motor when the test 4 is run but not count when the machine is paying? .....
How large was the payout (win) that you hit? If it was a lot of coins then the hopper would run to payout all those coins, and if it emptied the hopper before paying out your win then you would get an error.
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Try running test 5 to check to see if what on the reel strips is showing up correctly in the Win meter. I've never seen or hear of a run away hopper in the E Series
Good suggestion, I ran the test and checked the position when it shows a win on the center pay line. Bar Bar Bar shows 111. Bar bar 5Bar shows 1 1 2. Empty spots show blanks and in between it shows 3's. Now according to the manual I should be able to select which pay line I'm looking at by operating the coin switch. When I do that it immediately tilts just like it does when I try to run test 8. I can run test 8 only if I insert a coin and let it fall through, hitting the switch manually tilts it immediately. Now the plot thickens :Scratch-Head: I discovered that when it hits and starts paying it times out and gives me a 32 even though the coins are still pouring out suggesting it is not getting the count signal. When this happens I open the door (white light comes on telling me it knows the door is open) I hit the reset and about 5 seconds later the hopper starts running and spits out the correct amount of coins, winner paid light comes on and it displays 20 (correct amount.) So I start chasing nickles all over the room swearing at the machine. I repeat the scenario several times (except the chasing nickles part, I was ready for it this time) and it happens the same way every time. Sooooo is it related to the door being open? Something wonky with that coin switch because it does not behave like it is stated in the test, it just seems like it is related to the door somehow. :banghead: I'm thinking the hopper is fine now because it will properly dispense the correct amount so just got to solve this mystery now.
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Sounds to me like something is wired backwards. Post a picture of your coin switch and wiring. Next I would look at the door switches. Sounds like your hinder switch is working because the candle is lighting when the doors open. Do you still have the cherry switch on the door, right under the lock. I have seen those cherry switches with 2 or 3 attached. I try to eliminate that cherry switch. They work I Series with the door hinge switch. One other thing to check would be the hopper payout switch all the way back to the roll the coin contacts as it's being counted. Look for any play. I've seen the rivet that holds the tapered roller to the trip lever loose and too much play in the lever to the coin switch on the hopper.
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I checked the switch wiring and originally it was soldered on backwards and the machine would not reset early in this endeavor. Once I swapped the wires around to the proper spots the game functions as it is now. just for the hell of it I swapped them back and the game just sits at tilt and will not reset so I put them back according to the print. So just to recap the game functions and pays out properly as long as the door is open close the door and it pays out until it times out and gives a hopper empty error (and it isn't) reset the fault with the door open and it pays out the proper amount.
So with the door open I put a ground jumper on the NO contact of the coin switch and simulated a coin. The machine registered it and I spun. I did this until I hit and the machine started paying out just like it does when the door is open, timing out with a 32 error. I hit the reset and it did not pay out like before. I removed the jumper and it paid out the correct amount.
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Here is a picture of the coin switch on my one S-Series I have here on mine the the green with orange tracer is on the center tab and the blue with red tracer is on the far right tab. I do not have a ground wire on the left tab, just the grey wire and the resistor between the coin switch and diverted coil.
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Trying to get back with this misbehaving machine. Work called me out of town for a bit but hopefully back for the rest of the year now. Thank you for the picture yours is a little different. With the exception of my additional ground wire they are wired the same. My coin switch contacts are opposite yours meaning my NO contacts are on the right and yours are in the center. I did remove the ground wire and tested but it behaves the same. So until I figure this out I can make the machine function by removing the wire off the door switch to make it think the door is open all the time. I unplugged the buzzer and took the bulb out of the white light. The machine pays and plays correctly except it constantly shows a 50 in the left of the display because it thinks the door is open. Other than that it pays out and displays the correct payout and shows a winner paid light. I am not giving up on this, not my nature but in the mean time I know how to make it work for the Christmas party coming up.
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Maybe look for a second E-Series machine. That way you can compare the wire in both and then figure yours out. Did I ask you if your machine has the second coin switch located on the lower bottom corner of the door? It would be down near the coin over flow chute send the coins when the hopper would be full. If your is missing, check to see where the wires are now and if they are connected or taped off seperate. I'm still thinking your problem lays in the door switch wiring circuit.