New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: falconross on December 22, 2017, 04:04:08 PM
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Hello, New to slot machines and need help....any assistance would be greatly appreciated!! Recently bought a double diamond slot,igt s+ I believe, was told it worked fine except coin would simply fall straight thru and not register. Having owned some snack vending machines, thought no problem. Anyway, got the machine home and discovered my first problem was error code 12, low battery. I ordered a new battery and soldered new one to board. Fired up the slot, error code 12 disappeared but then got 61-1 code. Followed instructions I had read on forum and used reset and jackpot key to clear that out. Everything seemed to be working, except I still couldn't get coin comparitor to work. I was never able to get the led to light up on the comparitor. I started to trouble shoot to see if that comparitor was getting power and double checked all the connections. I must add that I was able to use the reset button several times and the reels would spin and different codes would appear in the winners paid window. Being new to all this, I wasn't sure what I was looking for and was mainly focused on getting the led on the comparitor to light up, so I don't remember what codes they were exactly. Anyway, after trying to figure out the comparitor I noticed the reset button wouldn't work any more and also noticed the lower light on the candle was flashing. After doing more research, I found out that this indicates idle, door open error. This makes sense as I read that the machine is basically in a lock out mode and the nothing will work till the error is cleared, which probably explains the comparitor not working. So, currently, I have a #1 in winners paid window, and 0 in the credits window, with the lower candle light flashing. I have tried cycling the power, reset button, nothing works. I also checked the door optics and even looked at one thru cell phone and could see the flickering light, so the emitter is working at least. The cash box door has the lock removed, but the two green wires are twisted together jumping that connection. The main door seems to shut fine and I believe the optics are lining up correctly. Like I said, being new and all, is my only option to use a clear chip in the main computer board? I know I used the jackpot key a few times after I cleared the 61-1 loop, so did I mess up settings perhaps and just need to start over?? Sorry for the long post and lack of specific jargon, still learning my way thru all of the this! Thanks in advance!!
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Hi, welcome to the site. Is there a sample coin in the comparator? You did a great job with the battery and clearing the 61-1. Post a picture of the comparator for us. Your 1-0 sounds like a page in tests. Closing the door should clear it. Your door optics must work since you cleared the 61-1.
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Thanks for the reply! The machine came with a ton of tokens, I have one in the comparitor. Should I try a quarter instead?? I thought I read somewhere that I might have put it in a test mode by using the jackpot key too many times. I'll post pictures in a few hours...thanks!
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Here's a pic of compartitor with token
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You have the coin sent back to far.
It should be about haft way back.
Then the spring loaded retainer covers about 1/2 the coin.
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falconross,
*** Proten beat me to it....
Your token is located too far back. You need to bring it forward to rest in the cradle as seen below. You will see a small channel behind the "Slide to replace coin" decal the coin should sit into that.
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Gotcha! I set token in correctly now... Unfortunately that didn't resolve anything.
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Try turning the sensitivity screw counter clockwise all the way. When you close the door, do the reels spin? Does a 0 appear in the bet window on the right? The light will flash on the candle until a game is played.
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The comparator does not light up unless the door is CLOSED.
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Unless you have moved them, the door optics must be lined up. You wouldn't be able to clear the 61-1 error without the machine recognizing the door as shut.
You are using matching tokens in the CC and the inserting coin? They have to match as the comparator will read differences in tokens and drop it through. Is the insert coin display lighting up? If not, it's not ready to play. If it is, it sounds like a comparator issue.
Dave
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I did adjust the sensitivity on the comparitor... I turned it all the way ccw, then about a quarter turn cw. The reels don't spin when I close the door and I do have zero in far right display, credits I believe. Sorry, not in front of machine at the moment.
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Full CCW is best, don't do the 1/4 turn the other way.
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I would leave the sensitivity turned all the way ccw. I like to use blue painter tape to check my optics alignment. Put a piece on the cabinet and mark where you optic is. Then do the same on the outside of the door, then see if your marks are aligned. I would also check the wiring on the door optic. Those wires move every time you open and close the door. I have seen the door wire worn through the insulation. It is possible your comparitor is bad too. There is a capacitor on the board inside the comparitor that goes bad.
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Is there any sort of test to tell if the comparitor is bad? That was my initial thought as the led light was not illuminating, however I understand that the led will not illuminate with the door open. As far as optics, I know that at one point I cleared the 61 code, so I think they should have worked then. As I mentioned in first post, the reels were spinning and I even got some sound at one point. I'm really thinking the machine somehow is stuck in a door open position that I might have induced...ugh....lol
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I'm wondering if your machine might need to have a set chip used on it? I believe there is a way to test the door optic in a actual machine test? But I am far from the S+ expert.
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On your coin comp. there is a small white button at the bottom left. Push it. It should give a credit for each push, then with the door open push the spin reels button. Once you close the door, credits will go away if it see's the door as closed. Post a picture of the front of door so we can see the display's. A short video showing everything would be better. Post it to youtube then post the link here.
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I tried pushing that little white button as well. Nothing happens at all....I just keep seeing the #1 in winners paid, and 0 in credits with lower candle light flashing.
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Looks like it's going to be the coin optics or a broken wire going to it. Pushing the button should give a pseudo credit.
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Is the insert coin display lit?
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there are two white buttons that are in play, the first being located near the power switch or in the middle of the cage assembly where the board is located. the second white button is the one on the coin optics board (lower left corner underneath the plug).
what happens when you close and latch the door? can you push the white test button and get into the diagnostics? if you can then we can test the optics to see if they are working.
if you suspect the cc-16 is broke, you can temporary shim the rake out of the cc body, (this should allow the coins to pass to the optics)
Jim
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If the coin optics are bad, will it cause the machine to remain in idle mode? Also, i've read that they can be cleaned, but not exactly sure what to clean on them. I failed to mention that the light assembly underneath the "change" button broke and the bulb is just hanging by the harness. Could this possibly cause the machine to not work? Thanks
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Jim, my reply crossed paths with your post....as far as the small white button on the coin optics board, i've pushed that and nothing happens, same with the white button next to the power supply. At one point when I pushed the white test button next to the power supply, things did happen such as the reels spinning, hearing sounds, etc., now nothing happens. When I close and latch the door, nothing at all happens, same display of numbers and lower candle light flashes. Not sure if I read post correctly, did you want me to try to push white test button on CC board when door is closed thru belly door?
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You can only use pseudo button with door open. Cash out button should not be the trouble. You say now the test button next to power switch is not working? Each press of it enters a different screen along with turning the key. When you stated you have 1_0 I believe that is the sound test. Jim Elvis
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I'm sorry, let me clarify...after I initially replaced battery and cleared out the 61 error with reset button and jackpot key, the machine seemed to work, except that when I tried to insert a token into coin slot, it just passed on thru and went straight to the tray. I had read somewhere that I could test the coin comparitor by advancing the error code to #34 using the jackpot key, if that makes any sense. I got to number 34, but after that nothing seemed to happen. For awhile, every time I hit the reset button to start over, the reels would spin and different codes would appear in the far left window, I think I remember seeing a 3100 at one time. I know at one time that the reset button quit working and I powered down the machine and pulled and reseated the computer board and was able to get reset button to work. Somewhere along the way the reset button quit working and reseating the computer board doesn't do anything now.
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If 1_0 is sound test, will it put machine in idle mode? If so, how do I exit that test? I'm thinking I may have inadvertently entered a test mode thru my ham-fistedness!
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that makes some sense, you could still be in the book keeping mode, close the door, keep turning the jackpot reset key until you get back to the game play mode. some times it takes 7 turns others it takes 13 turns, monitor the coins played window, each turn should advance the number, if after 7 you get the 3100 code, stop, likewise if after 12 you get the 3011 code stop, now you are in the game play mode, 3100 is a hopper code that should be reset by lifting the latch and putting it down at the closed position.
JIm
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the sound test is a number 50 in the winner paid window,
Jim
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unfortunately, turning the jackpot key does nothing. At one time it did work, but nothing now
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I should add, sometimes the jackpot key appears to stick when I try to turn, but this last time it turned pretty smooth. Wondering if jackpot key isn't working correctly...
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I was looking at the door optic sensor, reciever and one of the wires detached from the sensor...do I need the sensor, can I just twist wires together to bypass?
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No you can't bypass by twisting wires. You will need replacement optics. Now we know the problem. PM Jim he will have optics for you. Jim Elvis
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I will need new sensor then...the only thing is, i'm not 100% sure if I accidentally broke the wire, or if it was already broke, or at the very least it might have been a bad connection. I was looking at the plastic connector near the sensor when I noticed the wire, not sure if I pulled on the wire or not. thanks
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That is not a reset button. There is no such thing on a S+ machine.
Closing the door and aligning the door optics with the latch all of the way down is the only way to reset the machine.
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I was looking at the door optic sensor, reciever and one of the wires detached from the sensor...do I need the sensor, can I just twist wires together to bypass?
I had a feeling you had a optic problem. Those door wires take a beating this them being attached to the door latch. Do you have enough wire to try and solder it back together? At least till you get you new optics
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Do not twist the wires together you may blow a transistor on the MPU board. Get some working optics.
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I tried to solder, but it didn't work...i'm sure my soldering job was insufficient, ha. I'm gonna get some new optics.
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Those small wires are not easy to solder.
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I was initially having coin problems. I too thought I'd messed up some part of the programming.
First, I found out that one wouldnt see the LED lit with the door open. I opened the bottom door, removed the coin unit, passed the wires through so that when I closed the main door I could see the LED and also fiddle with the settings.
That helped-- but it was still intermittent. Connectors and cabled *looked* good, but more fiddling reveled that it would stop working when the cable was precisely in the right position. Unfortunately that right position was when it was installed and the cable run properly :-=( New cable fixed that
Second-- it was really gooey. A good spray cleaner cleaning fixed the sticky parts and all is well.
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There is a switch for that bottom door right near the door hinge.
It gets flaky and can be eliminated by removing the two wires connected to it and jumping them together.
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A quick update....ordered new door optic set, got them in mail today. Was hoping that they would fix the problem, but no such luck. I still have a 1 in winners paid window, and 0 in credits with lower flashing candle light. So, I now know its at least not the optic set, what about the where the wires from the optics go to? As I said earlier, a novice at these machines, so i'm assuming they lead to a computer board of some sort. Any ideas? Thanks
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Are the new optics aligned well?
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How do you have them attached? The door optic should have the Red/black wires and the Cabinet should be Red/White wires. If hooked up backwards the don't work.
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As far as I can tell, they are aligned pretty good. They are hooked up correctly as well. I even used my phone camera to check the light in the emitter.
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Do my way to check them. I use blue tape on the outside of the door and cabinet to mark where the optics are with the door open. Then close the door to see if the 2 marks line up. I just had a machine where I had to shim out the cabinet optics to work properly. Once I did that mine were adjusted.
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At this point it could be your computer board or the board (backplane) board it plugs into.
Did you make sure the red/white wired optic went to the chassis and red.black wired optic went to the door?
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do you have a meter? unplug the optics on the door, measure the dc voltage , now do the same for the cabinet . does this machine have a belly door switch? if so bypass it. check out the reset key switch, make sure it is working, with a meter set on resistance, rx1 scale, should read open one way and zero ohms the other (wires disconnected)
hard the machine went from working? reset a 61 code to totally un responsive, the S+ machine is not that complex.
Jim
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Thanks for all the replies....I tried the tape method, and as far as I could tell, they are lined up. I'm really not thinking that is the problem as at one point the optics were working and the current problem arose before I made any adjustments to the optics. Yes, red/white is on chassis, red/black on door....The emitter is on the door, verified it is working by using camera on phone. If it is the board, any suggestions on what it could be, or what am I looking for. Someone earlier mentioned a transistor could be bad...
As far as belly switch, I don't see one, but where is that usually at? I'll try the meter on the optics. Just for clarification, is the reset key switch the same as the jackpot key switch?
Thanks!
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A few more thoughts....if the door optics were the problem and if they are replaced, will the idle door open error clear out automatically once I close the door, assuming optics aligned, or do I need to do anything else to the machine to put it back in working condition? I thought I read I had to put a coin in to clear out the error, I could be wrong tho. Also, is there a certain amount of time the optics must be in alignment for the error to clear, or is it instantaneous? Is there anything else except the optics that needs to be in position for idle door open to clear? If not, couldn't I just hold the two optics together and see if the error clears? I really think something else is causing the problem, just not sure what it is.
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On most boards I work on it is Q6 that goes bad. It sends out the pulses to the door optic transmitter.
If it is open no pulses will be sent to the receiver, if it is shorted a steady signal will be seen, in either circumstance a door closure will not be detected.
On the backplane, way in the back right corner is a single, long, black connector that has some door signals.
Sometimes the far right pin, near the edge of the board misses the plug hole and is bent over and not connected.
A rare case but that disconnected pin will not allow the MPU to see the door signal.
Another possibility is your 6V fuse, it provides a DC voltage that is used for external voltages, we called it dirty DC or Vun.
If it is open the DC voltage used to pulse the optic transmitter is not present, result - no door detect.
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A few more thoughts....if the door optics were the problem and if they are replaced, will the idle door open error clear out automatically once I close the door, assuming optics aligned, or do I need to do anything else to the machine to put it back in working condition? I thought I read I had to put a coin in to clear out the error, I could be wrong tho.
When the optics are aligned and the machine is detecting that the door is closed (which means that the bill validator stacker door ("cash can" door) must also be closed), the LED displays on the front of the machine should go blank for a couple of seconds, then return to displaying information. If the displays remain lit with number(s) and don't change at all at the moment that the door is closed and the latch is completely slid down into the locked position, that's an indication that the machine is not detecting the door as being closed.
As far as the flashing bottom candle light, that light will remain flashing fast until the first paid game has been completed after the door is closed.
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I'll take a look at the board. On the 6v fuse, is that one of the 3 fuses underneath the cash can door? If so, then I already checked all of those fuses and they are good. Like I said, I can see a light emitting from optic sensor on door when I look thru my phone camera. I think it was blinking, but will look again. The cash can door had the switch removed and those wires are twisted together. I don't think that is the problem as it worked once and I haven't messed with them. As I mentioned earlier, at one point the machine thought the door was closed as other codes were displaying on front of machine. I could hit the little reset button and the reels would spin. The coin comparitor wasn't working as I could drop a coin straight thru. I read something about advancing from an error code of 10, to error code of 34 to check the coin comparitor. I think once I got to #34, it was supposed to go to another code, but nothing happened at that point. After that, I couldn't get reset button to work, wondering it something happened by turning the jackpot key several times to get to that #34 code.
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With the door open the button on the coin optics works or not? It will add a credit when you press it and then you can press the spin button and the reels spin? Or not? Can you post pics of optics, coin comparitor, and the display with the door closed?
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Coin comparitor button does nothing, as well as reset button by power switch. From what i've read, it sounds like machine is stuck in door open position and disabling any other function.
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Disconnect one wire from the jackpot reser key switch and try it.
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i'll give it a shot
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unhooked connections from jackpot key, no luck there
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I double checked with phone camera and I can see light flashes on the emitter, so that should be working. Tried several times to make sure optics are lined up. I feel that they are. Scratching my head, not sure where to go next....
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It seems when I open door, the bill acceptor does a self test, it makes a noise like it is.
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Does the belly door have a reflective object sensor or a white button switch to detect door open?
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No it doesn't, at least from what I can tell. I played with opening the door some more, and i'm not convinced that is causing the bill acceptor to make noise. It is sporadic and seems to follow no specific pattern.
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Badbaud, you mentioned a 6v fuse, where is that again?
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did you measure the voltage at the optics? did you try and touching the two wires that you unhooked from the jackpot reset key switch, this would simulate the key turning and completing the circuit. while doing that observe the display and see if anything changes.
Jim
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Is there a pin and latch arrangement to release the belly door?
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I checked meter on both door optic sensors and got readings for both, so I think that part is working. As far as belly release, there is a knurled know next to door release knob that you have to pull out to release the belly door. I don't see any sort of wires or anything that tells the machine the belly door is open.
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Thinking back to when machine somewhat worked.....I replaced battery, got rid of #12 error. After new battery got the 61 error code, was able to reset with reset button and jackpot key. Different error codes came up on LED display and reset button was working. At one point reset button for whatever reason quit working and I pulled and reseated computer board and that fixed problem. A bit later reset button quit working again and was unable to fix problem by reseating computer board. This was about 2 weeks ago so i'm somewhat foggy about the exact sequence of events. But I do know that that is when I noticed current 1_0 error that I have know.
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This has been a fairly long discussion so I didn't read all the way back. When you replaced the battery on the mpu did you examine it closely to see if there was any battery leakage or other damage to the circuit board? If the mpu board has any suspicious coating or residue on it then post a photo of it so we can see what you have. It doesn't normally take this long or this many posts to resolve an issue like yours, so something may have been missed in the steps taken up till now.
friendly advice-
It is helpful to use the right terms or words so everyone clearly understands. Unless your machine has been modified by someone your machine does not have a "reset button". There is a white TEST button inside the machine near the power switch. There is a RESET SWITCH on the outside of the machine near the pull handle, it requires a key to operate. There is a COIN TEST (pseudo coin) switch on the coin optic board just below the coin comparitor. You mentioned earlier that this was all new to you, so it will help you to learn the right way to describe things. These machines have problems now and then and you'll save yourself a lot of time and possible frustration if you can get familiar with the parts of your machine. There are many, many IGT S+ repair discussions here on NLG, some of them relate to similar problems your machine has. Reading thru them will give you a better understanding of your machine, and before long you will be able to help others that just got their first machine.
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I took a look at the board and it looked pretty clean, so does the battery. I really think this is something I might have caused by either using the jackpot key too much or reseating the board. I did take apart the coin comparitor as I thought that is where the problem was and then noticed the idle door closed error.
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I'm pretty sure you can turn the jackpot reset key all you want and nothing bad happens. The machine will just ignore the switch unless it is waiting for it to be turned.
The battery leakage sometimes is faint, or someone may have cleaned it in the past and it doesn't look damaged but over time it fails. If you have another mpu board you can try it to see if that fixes your machine. Also check for bent pins on connectors on circuit boards and wiring cables. At some point if you don't discover what is causing the problem you may need to try swapping things like the mpu to find out what is working and what is not working. Do you have access to another working S+ machine?
Also, just to make-sure, this is an upright machine, not a slant top. right?
Don't hesitate to post photos of your machine, inside and out, it can really help the people here that want to help but aren't sure what has been done or what you've got. Over the years these machines sometimes get worked on by a lot of people, sometimes things are not in original configuration. Photos are great at showing us what you have.
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As far as the jackpot key, I thought I read somewhere after the fact, not to turn it that much...oh well, too late now. As far as slant top, the top is slanted, if that is what you mean...still kind of learning all the lingo, so forgive me. Unfortunately, I do not have access to another board, or machine. I did look at the board and noticed some of the wires coming out of the large white plugs at the bottom of the board were slightly bent, but I managed to straighten them, but still nothing.
As far as pictures, for some reason having a hard time....I will as soon as I get that squared away.
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As far as the jackpot key, I thought I read somewhere after the fact, not to turn it that much...oh well, too late now. As far as slant top, the top is slanted, if that is what you mean...still kind of learning all the lingo, so forgive me. Unfortunately, I do not have access to another board, or machine. I did look at the board and noticed some of the wires coming out of the large white plugs at the bottom of the board were slightly bent, but I managed to straighten them, but still nothing.
As far as pictures, for some reason having a hard time....I will as soon as I get that squared away.
OK, knowing that the machine is a slant top style can be really helpful to know, they have some additional security switches that the upright machines don't have. Any of those security switches could be telling the machine that the machine is not properly closed. The top part of the machine lifts up so you can see inside. When it is closed there are switches on the base that should activate. Also the front panel of the base opens, there are security switches there. You will need to carefully look over your machine, find the wires and switches that have to do with sensing that the machine is completely closed.
The wires coming out of the board that were bent, do you mean the electrical contacts (pins) that are part of the large connectors on the edge of the board? If so, why were they bent? Is there damage to the mating connector on the motherboard? I think it best if we know more about this, and again photos would help us to see what you have there. Is this the same circuit board (mpu) that you replaced the battery, correct? We need you to post photos, will be hard to help without them.
When attaching photos it is better if they are not giant-sized image files. Nowadays digital cameras and phones take high res photos that create big files. If you have a setting on your camera to reduce the size of the photo that might make it easier for you to attach the photo files here on NLG. Or email the photos to me and I will post them for you. You can contact me by clicking on the "private message" icon on the left side of this message.
This is an example of what a slant top machine looks like. If this is what you have it is important to know that.
(click image to enlarge)
(https://s9.postimg.org/raatd0nf3/1011-1.jpg)
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I have been working on S+ machines for a while and never have I came across a "idle door closed error". I have no idea what it is. I read that you have a 1 somewhere and a 0 somewhere and that sound's like stuck in a test mode to me. Pictures would help so much. What area do you live? Maybe a member is close by to help.
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I think he has a 16" top. Thus the slant. Maybe wrong, just my interpretation.
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Could be an upright, photos would really help. Lots of suggestions have been tried but no solution yet, so I thought we should make sure nothing odd was going on.
And a photo showing that error message would be very helpful. Not long ago we had someone with a problem on their IGT machine, turned out it was a Bally. Not saying that's the deal here, but we shouldn't make too many assumptions. Photos are so important on harder problems.
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:I_agree_1: :I_agree_1: :I_agree_1: :I_agree_1:
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Here is a picture of the machine....front what I gather, it is not a slant top, sorry for the confusion
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Here is a picture of the error code, or at least that is what I am calling it. There is a 1 in the winners paid display and a 0 in the credits display. I agree, test mode sounds like a good explanation. I've been thinking the whole time that I induced this problem as it was responsive to the reset button and not displaying this error, then all of a sudden after me messing with it, I wound up in this situation.
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To everyone who has chimed in, thanks for your patience in helping me with this! I think I got my camera settings adjusted allowing me to attach pictures. Let me know what other pictures might help.
thanks!
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Open the door, step back a bit, and send a picture of the inside please.
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inside of door
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inside of machine
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Wonder what that black 1 pair wire is draped under the reel mech bracket?
Could be someone's attempt to defeat a door optic system?
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Here is a picture of the machine....front what I gather, it is not a slant top, sorry for the confusion
yeah, elvis is correct, that's a 16" upright machine. The Dbl Diamond Deluxe are very fun to play because of the "nudge" feature they have. Good job on getting the photos posted.
Probably not a problem, but is the door optic connector disconnected, or is it just the way it looks in your photo?
(cllick image to enlarge)
(https://s9.postimg.org/ob8i3wb3z/inside_front_z1.jpg)
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No, its just the picture, the door optic sensor is connected.
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Wonder what that black 1 pair wire is draped under the reel mech bracket?
Could be someone's attempt to defeat a door optic system?
falconross- those black wires are not original to the machine, can you see where each end goes to?
(click image to enlarge)
(https://s9.postimg.org/e2g0xox8f/inside_front_z2.jpg)
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The black wire is for a fan that the previous owner sat in there. I just left it in...not sure if it needs it or not
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to the left of the left reel, you can see blue glow from the fan's light
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I've been doing some reading on a S plus manual I found online, and a Zero in the coins played window indicates I have entered a self test. With a 1 in the winners paid window, it says i am in the Slot Accounting System (SAS). Does this make any sense?
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The black wire is for a fan that the previous owner sat in there. I just left it in...not sure if it needs it or not
Most home owners disconnect the fan on an S+, they don't have an overheating problem in home use. But it won't hurt anything as long as the wires or fan don't touch the rotating reels or the wires don't get pinched. The fan might actually bring extra dust into the machine, I'd probably remove it if it was my machine. We'll see what others say.
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I've been doing some reading on a S plus manual I found online, and a Zero in the coins played window indicates I have entered a self test. With a 1 in the winners paid window, it says i am in the Slot Accounting System (SAS). Does this make any sense?
When you shut the door and latch it the machine should exit test mode and return to normal play mode. Does your door latch and sliding locking bar move up and down freely, you can move it all the way down to lock the door?
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yes, actually, if the door is lined up just right, the latch will slide all the way to the bottom by itself
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yes, actually, if the door is lined up just right, the latch will slide all the way to the bottom by itself
That's critical because it is how the door optic mounted on the door gets aligned with the door optic mounted on the cabinet.
If this is messed up (bad optic alignment) the machine still thinks the door is open, even if it is closed and latched. So the machine would not exit test mode.
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there is a footnote on the the SAS that says if the PC(SAS) does not equal 0 in the winners paid window, mine is 1, the PC(SAS) will be activated not allowing further operation. It goes on to say in another paragraph that if PC(SAS) is not installed, the address must be 000.
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even if all of this PC(SAS) test inhibited the machine, would it still clear once the door is shut?
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Brightened your photo to show details better.
(click image to enlarge)
(https://s9.postimg.org/f6059lcpr/doorz1.jpg)
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there is a footnote on the the SAS that says if the PC(SAS) does not equal 0 in the winners paid window, mine is 1, the PC(SAS) will be activated not allowing further operation. It goes on to say in another paragraph that if PC(SAS) is not installed, the address must be 000.
Can you press the WHITE test button and step thru the test/setup menu screens, set the SAS setting to 0? I think the SAS setting is for connecting the machine to the casino server for certain casino operations. For home use this feature is not used.
even if all of this PC(SAS) test inhibited the machine, would it still clear once the door is shut?
evidently not.
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no, i can't
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would removing battery and resoldering maybe clear it?
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Was the machine stuck in this way when you got it?
There will be other folks logging in this evening/night, let's see what they suggest.
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it wasn't ...it had dead batttery, so I replaced it. Then got 61 error code, resolved that with test button:), and jackpot key. The coin comparitor wasn't working so I went on a wild goose chase trying to fix that. The test button was working, the reels would spin and the slot handle was working too. I really think by trying to use the jackpot key, test button, I probably put myself in this test mode that i'm in.
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When you replaced the battery did you take a photo of the mpu board or write down the game chip numbers by any chance? This might be helpful. On the mpu board there are 2 socketed chips, there should be labels on top of these chips saying "SSxxxx" on one chip and "SPxxxx" on the other chip. If you can tell us those 2 chip numbers there is a document that gives specifics about the features and settings on your machine.
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Do you have a RAM clear chip? That could potentially help at this point if the machine is somehow stuck.
Also, you mentioned you reseated the MPU board a few times -- hopefully you did that with the power off? Always ensure the power is turned off before removing or inserting the MPU board into the motherboard (the motherboard is the fixed board in the bottom of the machine that the removable MPU board mates to).
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See the attached layout of the backplane board.
J10 pin one is the pin that connects the door optic receiver to the computer board.
That is the closest pin to the triangle marking on the connector.
Nearest the edge of the board.
Remove the plug and see if that pin is bent over and not making contact.
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I have a SS4251 and a I can't tell what the other chip is as the sticker looks like it is missing. I'll post a picture. As far as replacing the MPU, yes, I always made sure the power was off, and no, unfortunately I don't have a RAM clear chip. I'll take a look at the J10 pin. Thanks for all the suggestions!
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That could be the trouble. No sticker blocking the window can erase the chip.
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oh wow, had no idea...should I put something back over the window, or is it too late?
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I did some looking for the sticker and no luck...I was hoping maybe it fell off during one of the times I pulled the MPU board out, but if it did, I don't see it.
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I wouldn't worry a lot about the missing label. It takes a lot of UV light exposure at a certain specific frequency of UV light to erase the eprom. Not likely it could do that inside the machine. Almost nothing in science is impossible but this would be a long-shot thing to happen, in my opinion. When installed your mpu board faces the metal wall of the machine cabinet, so there is no direct exposure to any light.
You can buy a ram CLEAR chip from several vendors here on NLG, or find them for sale elsewhere. It is an eprom, your remove the eprom on your mpu board that is marked "GAME PROM" (also called the SP chip, the one without the label in your case) and install the CLEAR chip in its place, then power up the machine and it clears everything back to factory default condition. Using a CLEAR chip is not something you want to do unless nothing else has fixed a stubborn problem. If your machine has a bill validator then you will also need to get a SET chip to re-enable the bill validator after doing the CLEAR ram process because the CLEAR sets the bill validator to "disabled". CLEAR and SET chips are often sold as a pair.
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Ok, thanks. On the clear chip, do I leave it in, or do I put the original chip back in after I clear everything out? What about unhooking the battery? Would that possibly clear everything out? I read that it takes about 45 min once battery is removed due to a capacitor keeping some residual voltage. If I did remove batt, would quickly removing and reinstalling possibly clear my problem? From what I read, if batt is removed for longer that 45 everything is cleared. Is that doing the same thing as a clear chip then?
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Also, on the clear chip, would it be replacing the chip with the missing sticker in my case? What about the other chip with the sticker?
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Yes, the CLEAR chip replaces your SP chip that is missing the label. After the CLEAR chip has done its thing you turn power off to the machine and remove the CLEAR chip, put your SP chip back where it was. You don't do anything with the other chip (the SS chip).
Here is a good explanation on how to do the CLEAR ram process:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=16134.msg86119#msg86119 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=16134.msg86119#msg86119)
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Ok, thanks. On the clear chip, do I leave it in, or do I put the original chip back in after I clear everything out? What about unhooking the battery? Would that possibly clear everything out? I read that it takes about 45 min once battery is removed due to a capacitor keeping some residual voltage. If I did remove batt, would quickly removing and reinstalling possibly clear my problem? From what I read, if batt is removed for longer that 45 everything is cleared. Is that doing the same thing as a clear chip then?
I doubt if removing the battery would be helpful but I guess you could try that if you want to. Only need to unsolder one leg of the battery. The CLEAR chip actually rewrites the data stored in the cmos ram so that it is set back to factory default settings. Having a dead battery allows the cmos ram data to change to random settings, so that isn't the same as doing a CLEAR ram process.
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Yeah, thats what I was thinking, just heating up one leg, removing it for a bit, then replacing. I will get the clear chip, but that's gonna be a bit due to the holiday, so I wanted to try something in the meantime. Thanks
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If it were me, I would order a new sp chip with the clear and set. Only about $10 more and if needed you'll have it. Just my opinion. Not near my notes to know what sp for dd deluxe.
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ok thanks, probably a good idea in case that chip is indeed bad. What about the SS chip, should I get that while i'm at it?
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You mentioned be removing and inserting the MPU did make it work at some point. Have you inspected all the pins on the MPU edge connector.? Can you get a good closeup of the motherboard/backplane board with the MPU removed?
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Also a pic of the MPU with the battery location
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here are some pics of backplane board, and batt
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Well, removing the battery for a bit worked!!!! The first time I removed the positive leg for a few moments and resoldered, nothing happened. I removed the leg again and let it set for an hour and when I put MPU back in I got the 61 error. I was never so happy to see the 61 error, lol! I pushed test button, got the chime, used jackpot key and it came back to life. The coin comparitor is even working now and the machine seems to be working great. I was give a huge bag of tokens and been playing them and the machine cashes out as well. So excited!! Thanks to all who helped!! :thank_you: :thank_you: :thank_you:
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That's good news. :applause: Sounds like your games MPU had some how for some reason locked up? Does your machine payout on every win? Some S+ games chips will give you the option of letting winning go to credit or paying out after every win. This is selected by pushing the cash out button. One way it lights up, the and other way the buttons lights off..
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This machine will give you the option of credit or payout. Yeah, I must have gotten myself into test mode. Glad that's over with!
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Strange way to clear a S+.
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Well, removing the battery for a bit worked!!!! .......
I'm surprised but glad that it worked.
Are you sure you didn't also say a prayer and sprinkle some magic fairy dust around too? :odie:
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Lol! I'm suprised it worked too, but I'll take it!
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I think it was a connection issue between the mpu and mb? Maybe some oxidation?
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I think it was a connection issue between the mpu and mb? Maybe some oxidation?
Time will tell. Play it for a week or more, then report back if it's still working.