New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: Trooper11040 on April 15, 2018, 05:00:19 PM
-
So I am not a slot machine guy...but a pinball guy...today I saw a post on FB Marketplace for an older style Double Diamond Video Slot Machine from IGT. The guy said it wasnt working, and had no keys, etc. I gave him $75 bucks and brought it home...drilled out the key and all it needed was to be turned on.
I got it up and running but can't play it. I keep getting a "Call Attendant Coin in Timeout" I did notice that there is no coin comparator in place. The jackpot reset is basically two wires that need touched together inside the cabinet...there was no key for that either so someone unwired them I guess. The screen isn't at full width for whatever reason and I think needs replaced. I know nothing about these games and would love to have it up and running and either just keep it for nostalgic reasons or sell it and make my $$ back. I'm not sure if this machine is a IGT PE or PE+...Ive attached some photos...anyone can help. i would be very grateful!
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1880_zpst8nke99g.jpg&hash=e74ba3cd52b906396e18c46722c90b244cf1b6d4) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1880_zpst8nke99g.jpg.html)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1882_zpsx0fcbit1.jpg&hash=fcea424d28c6390710c8cbb84f54d72b7e5c0274) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1882_zpsx0fcbit1.jpg.html)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1881_zpsmznabzkw.jpg&hash=c5d44fb12e477108a41618e12a7da52124dda4b1) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1881_zpsmznabzkw.jpg.html)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1878_zpsqdnyyxpo.jpg&hash=5a498740412a4686d8dc053b6598ad291d3f7c01) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1878_zpsqdnyyxpo.jpg.html)
-
I've not seen one of these machines but I think you could be right, it is an IGT PE or PE+ model video slot. Most PE and PE+ machines are setup for video poker, but yours simulates a 3 reel slot game.
You will need to add a coin comparitor, they are low-cost and you can get a good working one from someone here on NLG if you want to.
The reset keyswitch looks like the example in this link:
http://www.spininc.com/02562-0 (http://www.spininc.com/02562-0)
The reset switch wires are normally "open" (not connected), then when you turn the key the wires are connected. This switch is used for a variety of reasons so it will be best if you replace it.
The door locks can be purchased from a lot of different places. It isn't needed that you lock the door, just that it is latched by pushing down on the latch post. But if you want to keep people out of the machine a lock is needed. May not want youngsters getting in there and finding electricity, or getting your coins.
-
Would I need a certain coin comparator in particular? I see various ones for sale on ebay
Dan
-
yes, there are specific models of coin comparitors made for this machine, someone here will know what the model number is once the machine model is positively identified. The coin comparitor in my PE+ is a "CC-16D"
I'm not sure your screen width is wrong, that could be the way a video slot appears. The writing at the top of the screen does not appear to be "scrunched" or distorted.
We have some experts here on older IGT machines including the PE and PE+ models, they will give their opinions when they login, may take overnight so stay tuned.
-
Do you have a photo of the wires attached to the jackpot reset?
-
Do you have a photo of the wires attached to the jackpot reset?
No photo needed, the reset switch only has 2 terminals/screws, you can connect either wire to either terminal. It is a simple on-off switch. I added a photo of the reset switch in my reply#1 above, take a look at it.
-
ah ok...it appears as whoever owned this prior hooked the two wires to a pinball style switch to be able to reach in and just click the button...Id like to get this back to working 100% again...think it would be pretty awesome!
-
ah ok...it appears as whoever owned this prior hooked the two wires to a pinball style switch to be able to reach in and just click the button...Id like to get this back to working 100% again...think it would be pretty awesome!
That reset switch is normally "off", so in a pinch you can connect it to any switch that is normally off. The voltage on the reset switch wires is low, no danger of getting shocked.
My guess is the coin-in timeout error is because the coin comparitor is missing.
It is an attractive machine, for $75 you can't get hurt if you decide to sell it. But they are a lot of fun to play and add a different type of fun to a game room or basement.
I brightened your photos a little so I could see some details and added a few notes to the photos in case something comes up later and you need the info. The door optic sensors are how the machine knows when the door is open or closed. The coin optic boards detect the coin falling past them and they send a signal to the main logic board (called the "mpu") and it adds a credit to the machine.
-
Thank you very much for your help...ill try to get one of these coin comp. installed and go from there
-
Also do you think $75 bucks was good or bad? i have no idea what these things are worth
-
Also do you think $75 bucks was good or bad? i have no idea what these things are worth
If you lived within a couple of hours from me I'd give you $75 for it this afternoon. :garfield:
(but this is a slot machine hobby interest place, so most folks here are a little bonkers for machines like this)
I think you got a good deal, it looks clean, no broken glass, just needs a reset switch and a coin comparitor. There may be something else wrong but probably not. You will want to pull out the mpu board and make sure the battery isn't leaking and damaging it.
UPDATE- I think it may be a PE (not a PE+) because it does not have an internal bill validator, but that's just a guess. The real way to tell is what the mpu board looks like. So post a photo of it when you can.
-
It work the $75 all day. Your adjustment knobs for the monitor are located on top of the monitor. The far right one is the contrast, the other 4 control the screens width and height along with centering side to side and up and down.
-
Thank you very much for your help...ill try to get one of these coin comp. installed and go from there
you might want to wait until someone confirms what model coin comparitor you need, I'm far from expert on these, don't want you to buy something and it be wrong.
-
The screen adjustment knobs work except for the far left one which I believe to be the adjustment left to right. Wonder if it’s nust a dirty pot and needs a new knob
-
Here is a photo of the CPU...(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1883_zps4nwzi6wc.jpg&hash=a980268765669adaebef6a45198d03afa6b6770d) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1883_zps4nwzi6wc.jpg.html)
Also does anyone know where I could get a new one of these push button things since I want to clean this up a bit?
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1884_zps6oswuf5u.jpg&hash=3919f7af25049240665c010ddab57a20272a686a) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1884_zps6oswuf5u.jpg.html)
-
Since this is the first one of this style I’ve see, your best bet might be to take the button deck apart, then take that plate to a company that does powder coating and has it done in a silver or ceramic color. Your not going to find a replacement, and to have it chromed would cost more then what you paid for the game. You can fine the the monitor adjuster board on EBay. It should come up under 1492 Ceronix.
-
*** Amechanic beat me to it. However, it may still be worth it to pull it and have someone locally give you a quote. If you can not do it locally you could send it out.
The button panel may be tough to find a new one. You may need to pop that out and take it to someone who does chrome plating.
-
Here is your mpu board photo, I've circled the game software chips in yellow. I *believe* this is called a single game board, IGT also made a Superboard that we see in machines for Video Poker, it allowed for expanded game software that contained 5 different video poker games, you select the one you want to play from a menu on screen. Also, you may have already found out the round blue knob is the volume control for the game sounds. And inside the machine there should be a white TEST button you can press and enter the setup and diagnostic menu system. You press the TEST button repeatedly to step thru the screens.
If you wanted to change the game software to video poker you'd have to change the button panel and probably wiring harness, a video poker machine has several more pushbuttons.
I'm still not sure if this is a PE or a PE+ machine.
-
*** Amechanic beat me to it. However, it may still be worth it to pull it and have someone locally give you a quote. If you can not do it locally you could send it out.
The button panel may be tough to find a new one. You may need to pop that out and take it to someone who does chrome plating.
I have a deck button panel re-chromed last year. It cost me $75 to have it done and it too 6-8 weeks to get back. Next time I’m doing powder coating. The ceramic coating it close to chrome, just not as shiny.
-
I have a deck button panel re-chromed last year. It cost me $75 to have it done and it too 6-8 weeks to get back. Next time I’m doing powder coating. The ceramic coating it close to chrome, just not as shiny.
Well, it's been a couple of years. But, that piece should be a $30-40 piece max. We used to have a large piece that was sand cast (rough) then ground and chromed for $190. That piece weighed 60# too (It used to piss the polisher off holding that 60# piece up to the wheel). We even had California EPA regulations where it was done.
As, for time. Yeah. They are a bit slow. It would take us 3-4 weeks to get product done. Powder coating is an option but, it's not chrome and for us it never wore well compared to chrome. For us powder coating was about the same price.
I would suggest you send your photos and dimensions to a few online Plating Co. for quotes if you can not do it locally. You don't have anything to loose to get the quotes.
***One last option could be to look into a chrome wrap material. You would need to clean up the material before applying it. As for durability I don't know. But, it would be the cheapest.
-
Chrome prices have shot through the roof in the past few years with the EPA cracking down on toxic chemicals. From what I understand, if you want it for less you need to send it out of the US to places like Mexico. They have been developing a water based chrome that you can do at home, but those skits cost hundreds of dollars. Try calling a local chrome shop and ask for a phone quote with the plates dimensions.. You will fall out of your chair.. I almost did. :duh:
-
This is an IGT PE+ video slot. It's pretty much the same as an IGT PE+ video poker machine, but with fewer buttons on the player panel. As rokgpsman stated, you have a standard PE+ board which is capable of running slots and some of the earlier video poker games. While a superboard could also run the slot game, there would be no benefit to upgrading to one for this machine as you don't have the player panel buttons to turn it into a video poker game.
The PE+ slots were popular here in Minnesota as the tribal compact between the Native American casinos and the state specifically prohibits the use of spinning reel Vegas-style slots, so in the years before super-complex video slots with bonus rounds became a thing, the manufacturers got creative and created video versions of their spinning reel slots -- Double Diamond, Red White and Blue 7s, Sizzling 7s, etc., for markets like Minnesota that had a prohibition on spinning reel slots.
I posted some pictures a long time ago of other PE+ slot titles in this thread: http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=340.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=340.0)
-
Thanks knagl, that is an interesting old thread about the PE+ video slot machines and shows that where there's a will there's a way when it comes to the slot machine companies developing machines to comply with gaming jurisdiction regulations.
One of the old photos shows a PE+ slant top video slot and I think it has a bill validator, but the upright machines pictured did not (as far as I can tell). In general, I thought PE+ machines had an internal bill validator and PE machines did not. Or was it just that these were all early PE+ machines without bill validators? Does the PE+ video slot software support a bill validator, same as the PE+ video poker machines?
And if the OP wanted to, he should be able to swap software chips to install a different video slot game, such as Double Diamond Deluxe, and get the "nudge" feature? A lot of the PE+ video poker software is available on the various MAME websites for free download, perhaps they have the PE+ video slot software too.
PS> would you say that to replace his missing coin comparitor he should install a CC-16D ??
-
The screen adjustment knobs work except for the far left one which I believe to be the adjustment left to right. Wonder if it’s nust a dirty pot and needs a new knob
The far left screen adjustment pot on my PE+ is for the Horizontal Width. If your's is frozen or stuck maybe you can replace it (or the entire control assy as Amechanic mentioned). If the pot is maxed out to one end then there might be something wrong with your monitor's circuit board. I think there is a resistor on the monitor circuit board that is the main part that sets the width, and the adjustment pot above the screen fine tunes it. As electronics age the resistor value may have changed. But that's just a guess.
Will it turn in either direction? If the pot is dirty or worn the wiper arm might not be making contact, some slight movement of it might get you a better width.
-
It will turn but nothing happens. When I first turned it on yesterday I could swear the width was longer then it shrunk lol
-
That could be because the pot wiper arm is broken, or something wrong on the monitor circuit board. Did you try pressing down on top of the adjustment pot, just to see if the wiper is not making contact? When turning the pot it should have a stopping point at each end of its travel. If it can turn continually, round & round, then the pot is broken.
You could try replacing the Horiz Width pot, or getting another adjustment assy board with all the adjustment pots on it as Amechanic mentioned. Maybe one of the techs familiar with your monitor will give some advice or ideas. Even as it is now you should be able to get the machine working by adding the coin comparitor. And I'd get a reset keyswitch to finish that part up, easy to install.
Did you find the white TEST button inside the machine? Pressing it will let you walk thru the setup/diag menu screens to see what options you have. On my PE+ the mpu board (main logic board, the one that has the battery installed) is mounted in a metal tray above the monitor and the white TEST button is on the outside of the metal tray not far from the volume adjust, but your machine may be different.
-
Here is a pic of the comparitor in a PE+ I have in the garage that I picked up last year. It had a bad Ceronix chassis. It is a CC-16.. I did a quick look on EBay under 1492 Ceronix and those adjustment boards are still there.. They are $9.99 plus shipping.
-
ok so I got the comparator ordered...found one on ebay for 25 bucks shipped..should be here hopefully Wednesday or Thursday. i need to order 2 new key/tumbler sets and get a new jackpot reset key/tumbler as im missing the key for the jackpot reset. Im also going to look into ordering a new board for the monitor and see if that could be the issue as to why its not getting wider...anywhere I can get a monitor used like the one inside the game? This one has terrible burn in from what appears to be poker...lol...must have been swapped out from another game back in the day...the stickers inside are from a sioux falls indian tribe casino...kinda cool
-
Contact Alan at K-Lar. I know they have used monitors. You can find there banner ad on the home page. I do believe there is a LED replacement screen option for your game, but they run over $300.. K-Lar can also service your Ceronix chassis if it needs it.
-
Here is the link for that control board...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CERONIX-MODEL-1492-CONTROLLER/162790482382?hash=item25e711a1ce:g:q4cAAOSwInxXOMT9 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/CERONIX-MODEL-1492-CONTROLLER/162790482382?hash=item25e711a1ce:g:q4cAAOSwInxXOMT9)
-
... i need to order 2 new key/tumbler sets and get a new jackpot reset key/tumbler as im missing the key for the jackpot reset. ...
If the reset switch is still in the machine you can probably just order the key, nearly all machines use the same reset key. It is commonly called a "2341" key because of the number stamped on it. But if the entire reset keyswitch is missing then yes you will need the whole thing.
example of 2341 reset key:
http://www.spininc.com/01465-0 (http://www.spininc.com/01465-0)
-
.....This one has terrible burn in from what appears to be poker...lol...must have been swapped out from another game back in the day...the stickers inside are from a sioux falls indian tribe casino...kinda cool
The screen burn is not unusual, these machines are decades old and were running 24/7 while in a casino. That's something that can happen to any older crt monitor so you will find a lot of that on used monitors. When the screen burn is from the same game then it isn't as noticeable while playing the game, but in this case where the monitor was previously in a different machine then that will make it more noticeable.
-
I ordered the little adjustment board that controls the width and height adjustments. I took the screen out today and it the board appeared to be burned out on the backside pins where the adjustment pots were. I’m looking forward to getting this all up and functioning again
-
Be careful when you install the new adjuster board that the pins on the boards don’t come in contact with the metal ring around the monitor and the same with the top bracket. They are a tight fit.
-
One of the old photos shows a PE+ slant top video slot and I think it has a bill validator, but the upright machines pictured did not (as far as I can tell). In general, I thought PE+ machines had an internal bill validator and PE machines did not. Or was it just that these were all early PE+ machines without bill validators? Does the PE+ video slot software support a bill validator, same as the PE+ video poker machines?
Like the OP's machine, those in the pictures in that thread (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=340.0) are mostly older PE+ machines that didn't have the bill validators built in. It's hard to see in those old blurry photos, but next to them are the "sidecar" bill validator boxes that were added on to the machines to allow them to accept bills. You can see one fairly clearly in the third picture, of the "Pharaohs Gold" 4-reel slots.
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi62.tinypic.com%2F2di566c.jpg&hash=163bb9f772d08f8165016914ac43bf6530b29587)
Image credit: FORDBS
Unless I'm sorely mistaken, the difference between the PE and the PE+ is much like the S and S+, when looking inside. The PE+ MPU board is mounted on a tray and slides in to mate with the motherboard. The PE (non-plus) uses wiring harnesses that connect directly to the board (I think). Regardless, there were many PE+ machines made that didn't have a bill validator built in. In fact, the local casino still has three PE+ machines (since upgraded with LCD monitors) in service, all with those sidecar bill validators -- I'll try to get some good quality pictures of those next time I'm there.
And if the OP wanted to, he should be able to swap software chips to install a different video slot game, such as Double Diamond Deluxe, and get the "nudge" feature? A lot of the PE+ video poker software is available on the various MAME websites for free download, perhaps they have the PE+ video slot software too.
There's some PE+ video slot software floating around out there, mostly thanks to NLG members Stolistic and BrianT who both have done amazing work with MAME emulation and program archiving. However, as was demonstrated here in this thread, the PE+ slots weren't terribly popular around the country and as such there have been fewer sources for game ROMs to archive. There are many games which existed at one point that we simply don't have the software for, and may never get.
-
This harness was behind the monitor when I took it out...anyone know what this goes too? I saw a 6 clip harness on the board behind the monitor...not sure if it plugs in there?
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FEE1F87F9-D56D-46A3-BCB5-F5401345A28A_zpszazzw4h1.jpeg&hash=df56925ef8ea227470bb84ccf9a0c772c8db47a2) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/EE1F87F9-D56D-46A3-BCB5-F5401345A28A_zpszazzw4h1.jpeg.html)
-
So I was playing around in the settings. My coin optics were all reading 0. Does that usually happen if a compartor isn’t on there? Or could the optics board be shot
-
Did you drop a coin in to see if it changes ?
-
Did you drop a coin in to see if it changes ?
or swish a popsickle stick (or narrow strip of cardboard) back and forth. You want to block, then unblock the optic sensors in there to test. The 2 boards are mounted parallel to each other, the coins pass between them.
-
Yes nothing happened when I put a coin between it. I’m just wondering since there is no comparator there, it’s making it not work.
-
Yes nothing happened when I put a coin between it. I’m just wondering since there is no comparator there, it’s making it not work.
I don't know about that, never tried it or heard of anyone trying it without a coin comparitor in the machine. Seems like the coin optic boards would be a separate circuit from the coin comparator and what you are doing would work. But it doesn't seem likely that your coin optic boards are bad, that doesn't happen very often. Let's give some of the experts here time to offer an opinion. You are on the screen in the test menus where you can test inputs when you do this?
Is your replacement coin comparitor on the way?
-
Coin comparator should be here Friday! I’ll order a new optic board in the mean time just Incase that’s bad as well
-
Well I forgot to order the harness that goes between the game and the comparator...I also do not believe my optics are working...I get 0's on A,B, and C...no matter what I do, I can't get it to read anything other then 0's. I tried wiggling the harness, cleaning the optics, nothing...guess ill be ordering one of those as well
Dan
-
Got the coin comparator today but unfortunately needed the harness...I believe I also need a new optics board...and then last night, my door optic broke (the wire pulled off so i'll be waiting a few more days for everything to come in) I can't wait to see this all up and running
-
Be careful on the door optic parts - there are 2 of these, one on the door and one on the main cabinet. They are not the same, one is an optic transmitter, the other is an optic receiver. You have to get the correct one installed at the correct location, or it will not work. Make sure that the part you order and install has the same color wires as the one you are removing.
-
I ordered the set of 2...one of each...i know the one with the bubble looking part goes on the cabinet...i still have the original..just unfortunately broke it yesterday...i was so close to being done with this and having it all up and running!
-
yes, it is frustrating. You have to be careful, a machine like this is at least 20 years old, many of the plastic parts and small wires are fragile due to age. When you get the new parts you will notice that the connectors are the same on each part (poor IGT design decision), so it is possible to install them reversed. From what I know the wire colors are different on each part and is a good way to tell the difference.
So whoever removed the coin comparitor from the machine also took it's wiring harness? I wonder why, unless they needed it to repair another machine.
When you get the replacement coin comparitor installed you know about installing a "sample" coin/token in it?
-
good to know...i am even considering upgrading the monitor to an LCD...the old tube is just nasty and so old...colors are all messed up on the bottom of the monitor.
-
Post a picture of the monitor where your colors are off. It sounds like your monitor needs to have a degaussing coil used on it..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Degausser-Degaussing-Wand-Coil-for-Arcade-Monitors-CRT-Tube-Television-TV-US-NEW/123034014331?hash=item1ca566127b:g:6j4AAOSw7nZar7tt (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Degausser-Degaussing-Wand-Coil-for-Arcade-Monitors-CRT-Tube-Television-TV-US-NEW/123034014331?hash=item1ca566127b:g:6j4AAOSw7nZar7tt)
There are other ways to do it without buying the tool
-
I’ll get a photo. I’ve never heard of this before lol
-
I’ll get a photo. I’ve never heard of this before lol
Some games have a built in degaussing circuit.. There is a Thick wire around the back side of the monitor.. Has a 2 wire plug that plugs on to the chassis..
-
Here are 3 photos from the test menu:
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2F38F1F169-19D7-4C09-84DA-134B7DF87325_zpsdei8jldm.jpeg&hash=c502c5d5a725c79a611e9fdf5445178984c14f5f) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/38F1F169-19D7-4C09-84DA-134B7DF87325_zpsdei8jldm.jpeg.html)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2F3FA659A8-6191-47EA-9852-4D7A98F4B822_zpsjwk9uxzw.jpeg&hash=dd859107dbb91ba2d971cd14f2a3c7ae1b573cfe) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/3FA659A8-6191-47EA-9852-4D7A98F4B822_zpsjwk9uxzw.jpeg.html)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FD99F36D5-B393-49C3-AEFB-BED20EBEB45A_zpsx1grcm2u.jpeg&hash=d8099d0053d62890c62685a933f147d8efe1804e) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/D99F36D5-B393-49C3-AEFB-BED20EBEB45A_zpsx1grcm2u.jpeg.html)
-
It’s usually in the corner but maybe because your screen adjuster is messed it could be why your colors look like that. If you hold a speaker magnet or and device that generates a magnetic field next to the screen you can change the colors. It can happen if someone puts a stereo on the game or right next to the monitor.
-
Your machine's monitor is a crt. On the inside of the crt at the big end there is a metal screen and it can be become magnetized in some places. That's why they used to tell people don't let your kids put a magnet near the screen on a tv. Also, if you turn on or off a large motor like a vacuum cleaner near the crt screen it can put color blotches on the screen. This was back in the day when tv's were in console furniture cabinets and the screen was near the floor. These color "blotches" are because the crt's internal metal screen has become magnetized in some areas. The fix is to use some method of "degaussing" (you can google the details of what it means).
Old time tv repair repair shops always had a degaussing coil. In a pinch you can use something with a strong motor. You turn the motor on while holding it close to the center of the screen, then slowly rotate the motor in the air making circles in front of the screen as you back away and increase the distance from the screen. After you have moved back far away to not affect the screen you switch the motor off. You can probably find a video on youtube showing someone using a degaussing coil.
Things that have bigger electric motors can be substituted for a degaussing coil, like an electric drill or one of those large soldering irons that have a big transformer inside. Whatever you use has to have a strong enough magnetic force to affect the crt screen. The process of degaussing removes the magnetism from the crt internal screen. CRT's with large color blotches may need the degaussing process done a few times. And without the proper degaussing tool you may not completely get rid of the blotches but should get some improvement.
Inside many monitor or tv displays there is a built-in degaussing coil wrapped around the crt near the big end. Each time the monitor is switched on the degaussing coil will activate for a few seconds, then switch itself off. If your monitor has this it may have gone bad or gotten unplugged like Amechanic mentioned.
-
I’ll get a photo. I’ve never heard of this before lol
Typical youngster response. :garfield:
I think there are LCD upgrades but they can be costly so depends on your budget. If you want to look into that just ask and someone here can point you in the right direction on how to get that done.
-
Haha we had a tube when I was a kid. It was inside “furniture†and very heavy lol
-
You can get a LCD from HAPP - these are meant as a direct replacement - they go for about $350.
With regards to the PE+ itself - I paid about $800 for my PE+ about 15 years ago they have dropped considerably and you could probably find a PE+ with a decent monitor for less than the LCD drop in. In particular slant tops are not the most desirable platform for the home patron due to their size (I don't ever want to carry one of those down to the basement) and I have seen some of these go for $150 - makes a great parts machine (Bill validator, buttons, coin optics, coin comparator, door optics etc etc).
You cannot use a standard LCD as the colors are all inverted - this is unique to IGT and Cetronix (sp?) monitors.
There is a thread on how to hack this - but it involves modifying the system board etc and as I have about 7 boards all setup so I can just swap the boards vs a bunch of chips. There is no way I am hacking up a bunch of boards. Makes them useless in other machines. I would be more apt to cough up the $350.
-
Haha we had a tube when I was a kid. It was inside “furniture†and very heavy lol
If you have an AC powered electric drill it might be large enough to try, can't make it any worse. Or you could lift up your vacuum cleaner and move it in circles near the monitor. The monitor needs to be on when doing this so you can see if the degaussing process is working or not.
Here are some of the videos out there, this is still done nowadays because there are many crt displays still in use:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=degauss+tv+monitor+crt+with+a+drill (https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=degauss+tv+monitor+crt+with+a+drill)
-
I’ve heard that the old style soldering iron that’s the size of a hand gun work good for this. I bought one of the circle style degausser tools for my person use here.
-
I have an old Radio Shack bulk eraser that works well to degauss a monitor. Based on the pictures, that monitor definitely needs to be degaussed.
-
used my cordless drill which helped IMMENSELY! The monitor is about 98% better
-
:cool_thumb_up:
you're gonna be an expert at this soon! :garfield:
-
lol i dont even have the game up and running yet haha
-
lol i dont even have the game up and running yet haha
minor details - you'll get all the help you need to take care of that. :wave:
if you can borrow a larger drill that is ac powered instead of cordless you may be able to make your screen purity even better. use the same technique of switching it on while holding it very close to the monitor screen, then move it in circles in the air and back away slowly before switching it off. You can do this several times if you want.
Here is the drill that Amechanic's shop assistant uses:
-
I think my dad has an older solder gun. Watching some YouTube videos shows that to really put out a large magnetic field. Hopefully I’ll have the other parts hopefully here by the weekend. I found a guy about 45 mins away that has some of the parts I need. I may take the trip
-
So I got the new screen adjustment board in the mail. (Ceronix 1492 board). I still can’t adjist outwards. The screen has burn in further then what’s showing on the screen so I know it gets “widerâ€. Anything else I should look for?
-
There is a discussion area here on NLG that pertains to monitor problems and their solutions. You might try reading thru the threads there to see if anyone has had a similar problem and how they solved it. The Ceronix monitors are used in a lot of machines so there are several threads about them:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=30.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?board=30.0)
I don't know how deep you want to go into repairing your monitor. You can sometimes find an entire replacement monitor circuit board and just replace it. The Ceronix website might have the boards for sale, also other websites may have them.
Or you can try replacing parts on the monitor circuit board to repair it if a tech here were to suggest a likely part to replace. I'm not a monitor tech but I'd probably check the 38.3kohm resistor at G11 to make sure it is ok, but that's just a guess and a place to start.
-
I also noticed that I’m getting a 0 next to my coin out. I’m starting to wonder if this was a bad purchase lol
-
Is the screen width so bad that the game is unplayable? If not you could get it working otherwise, then decide what to do about the monitor width.
Here's another idea, a lot depends on what you want to do:
http://www.galco.com/repair/Ceronix/1492 (http://www.galco.com/repair/Ceronix/1492)
-
Ok so I got the coin comparator in place...I’m still getting zeros on the coin out and coin in on all 3 optics. Also tried a second optic and still noting. I’m stuck now unfortunately
-
Odd...when I turn the jackpot reset key in the self test, it lights the green light on the comparator and a coin will go down the main chute to the hopper
-
The width is still an issue. I can’t get it full width. Not sure what component on the chassis needs replaced or adjusted
If you wanted to try something you could take a look at the monitor circuit board, find the horiz width circuit and check the 38.3k ohm resister at G11 as mentioned above in reply #66. That resistor works with the horiz adjustment pot. Maybe the 38.3k resistor has gone bad, something to try.
-
The width is still an issue. I can’t get it full width. Not sure what component on the chassis needs replaced or adjusted
If you wanted to try something you could take a look at the monitor circuit board, find the horiz width circuit and check the 38.3k ohm resister at G11 as mentioned above in reply #66.
Fixing the crt I feel like it may be out of my skill level. I’m scared of shocking myself lol
-
On the side of the monitor is a large power transistor that is held in by two screws. This is likely the culprit.
......and yes electrocution is a possibility if you touch the back of the tube.
I would send it into a TV repair place or use the send in service offered by Cetronix. Go to their web site.
-
Fixing the crt I feel like it may be out of my skill level. I’m scared of shocking myself lol
well, it's healthy to be respectful of electricity. I've known that since the time I pee'd on an electric fence wire at the farm. :odie:
Maybe someone will have a suggestion on how to proceed. If you can get another monitor circuit board from someplace you could replace it. Or maybe someone will have the entire monitor for sale.
-
Here check this out.
https://www.ceronix.com/content/21-ceronix-warranty-and-returns.html (https://www.ceronix.com/content/21-ceronix-warranty-and-returns.html)
There are phone numbers to call but for $65 you can send your monitor in and they will repair it.
You can also get drop in LCD replacements and if you google ceronix for sale you will find a number of used monitors for reasonable prices.
I also direct you to many of those on our home page who may machines they are willing to part out for you.
-
If you had an ESR Meter you could test the capacitors on the Ceronix chassis.