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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: PickerDan on September 19, 2020, 03:29:07 PM
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Hello, I am new to using the forum. Looking for help. My machine is a Bally 809, has the fruits and bars. It was working perfect. Then just started to divert coins to the hole in the bottom of the machine. (One thing to note, when I got it, it would allow more than 5 coins to keep going to the hopper instead of to returning to the tray) not too worried about that. Anyway, after it stopped taking coins, I pulled out the reels and the hopper, cleaning beau plugs with electronic cleaner. Let it dry. (This was 2 weeks ago). Now the handle release coil keeps tripping.I pull the handle, the reels spin, then stop like normal. (Except if it hits a winning combination it does not pay out). Now the other thing that happened after the cleaning is the 6 volt light bulbs are shorting out. They turned real bright, then popped. If anyone has any advice, I would appreciate it!! I will donate to the site. There is alot of great information on here. I also bought the Owner's Pictoral Guide for Bally slot machines. Great book!! I can post pictures of anything you need if I can figure out how. Thanks in advance!!
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During the cleaning something might of been knocked out of adjustment.
Check beau-plug pins not to be bent or pushed back into the housing.
Inspect the payout relay switch on the top left back of the hopper.
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Awesome!! Thank you!! I will check, and post what I find. :)
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your book has a generic 809 schematic in it. If you post the full model number on the plate below the handle, I may have the specific schem for your game if it's not already on http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ (http://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/)
the game accepting more than 5 coins means the coin lockout coil wasn't working. The coil and armature are behind the coin mech, and it had a tendency to buzz after the armature or coil top wore, so the quick hack was to disable the function and keep the money :-) The inconvenient way to disable was to remove the armature. The nicer way was to disconnect the coil or misadjust a switch so it never powered.
if your game is not locking the handle, see if the coin relay on the bottom left of the reel mech isn't mechanically resetting after the handle pull ... or if it is resetting, if it's electrically tripping without the coin switch being actuated. If the coin relay is tripped and/or the handle is released, payout is disabled.
diverting the coins to the hole in the bottom of the machine happens when the hopper is full. If the hopper isn't full per the "golf ball" float mechanism switch, then the coin diverter has an issue.
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about de 6 volt lamps, are they all burning out or only the insert coin and coin accepted?
did you check for shorts on th 50 volt?
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also check the wiring harness going from the door into the cabinet, and if you took apart any plug connectors to clean the pins, make sure the plugs are back in correctly.
finding shorts can be tedious. It helps to remove the hopper and/or the reel mech and see what happens if checking the beau plugs per david's suggestion doesn't turn up anything.
I'd probably use a voltmeter on the lamp socket vs blowing lamps as a test :-)
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Thank you so much!! You guys are great!! I am going to dig into it this coming weekend. I was bummed....I wanted to this weekend, but had to work. I will definitely post my results. I also appreciate you mentioning the voltage meter....those little bulbs are not cheap!! 😒 Have a great week!!
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I ran downstairs to look at the ID tag, it is missing. I see the rivot holes where it was. (That does not help). It used to be a 5 cent machine (behind the slug rejector is 5 (cent) logo written. And there is a 1963 nickel glued to the inside of the door.
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I ran downstairs to look at the ID tag, it is missing. I see the rivot holes where it was. (That does not help). It used to be a 5 cent machine (behind the slug rejector is 5 (cent) logo written. And there is a 1963 nickel glued to the inside of the door.
it's possible to narrow down what model it could be:
1] there's numbers stamped into the slotted metal index discs on the reels. Usually p-484-x, but could also be the tape/wheel code for the model
2] there's an m-645-x number on the payout counter disc ... picture of the entire disc including the wire colors around the edge helps as the same disc was used on many models
3] the reel tapes have a part number underneath the overlap area, but don't uncrimp a tape to look. Either take video turning the reels slowly or write down the symbols in order from the top of the tape down. Top of tape is where the overlap is.
4] there may be something written on the hopper or reel unit, or the reel wipers and reel wiper contact plates.
there was hundreds of 809 models ... my listing goes from 809-A to 809-9ZV (they had to shorten 809-ZZZZZZZZZV), and people on this forum have later models.
even if exact model can't be determined, it can be helpful determine the basic game type. There were things like triple bar, triple bar fruit, 3 bar any, lightning (jackpot only), money gusher, and at least a dozen others. Having paperwork from the same style game can be helpful if you have an obscure issue.
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Ok!! I got some time tonight here to start checking things out again. I am attaching the pictures of the numbers that you asked for. Hopefully this helps. Right now it is free playing, and when it hits a payout it pays the amount like it has 5 coins in it. Maybe this helps that something is stuck where it thinks it has 5 coins inserted, and not resetting to "0". It also still has the short. I put the volt meter to a light bulb socket, and it is showing 50 volts. Thank you to all who are replying!!
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about de 6 volt lamps, are they all burning out or only the insert coin and coin accepted?
did you check for shorts on th 50 volt?
I is burning out every light bulb. Winner paid came on, real bright then popped. Every other bulb has blown too. I cannot figure out what is going on. I did test a bulb socket, and they are getting 50 volts which is absolutely wrong!! How would I check for shorts on the 50 volt? Would it be back feeding through the ground somehow? Thanks for replying!!
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Ok, so the reels have 484 642 stamped on them, the hopper wheel has M -645-118 on it.
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So the lights will stay on until the machine is played or when there’s a payout?
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your payout counter and index discs are consistent with the 809-B ... and a bunch of other triple bar models. The 809-B schematic and paperwork is probably right or close enough.
you can see if the odds unit matches the below diagram. Some later 809 triple bars used an odds unit with a couple extra wipers and more wires attached to the edge lugs.
none of that helps the 50V issue. It sounds like you have a direct short between the 50V circuit and solid blue wire 20, which is the main 6V power wire. If the short was thru a lamp filament, as soon as the lamp blew the short would go away. Only the jackpot bell coil would likely survive a 50V short thru it.
if you have 50V on a lamp socket immediately after turning on the machine, I'd suggest:
1] remove the 6V fuse and check voltage (CV)
2] pull the hopper and CV
3] pull the reel mech and CV
4] disconnect door plugs one at a time and CV
since disconnecting the door plugs will disconnect most of the lamp sockets, you'll need to check voltage on odds lights in the top. When the odds stepper unit is reset, the left set of odds should be turned on.
if you have to do something to make the 50V appear - deposit a coin or whatever - that will help narrow things down. if the short is at a place that is sometimes connected to wire 30 (common wire for both 50V and 6V circuits), the 50V on the lamp socket will go away as soon as the 50V circuit closes to wire 30.
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Thank you everyone for your help!! Over the weekend I dug in (with all your help) and was able to get my slot machine working 99%!!) I say 99% because it will still accept more coins than stopping at 5. But I am happy with it working!! So as far as the 6 volt light short, I have no idea. I used a volt meter as suggested, and it was reading between 6V and 7V. (That short blew every incandescent bulb in the machine including the jackpot candle and service light. The free play problem was the very last set of contacts on the left bottom side of the reels. When cleaning I must have bumped the end one out of adjustment. I also re-cleaned the jones plugs with new contact spray I bought at Home Depot. (WD 40 brand). I was using some old Radio Shack brand stuff I had. Also the machine is paying out, and paying out correctly. Thank you to everyone who contributed to helping me out!! Right after I post this, I am heading for the donate button. :applause: :waving_flag:
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nice.
game accepting more than 5 coins is the coin lockout magnet and armature behind the coin mech. Remove the mech and take a pic of what is behind there. The armature plate has a tab that pokes into the mech and causes coins to reject back to the tray. That must be disabled somehow - bend tab, missing armature, paper wedged in to hold the armature back and coil disconnected, etc.
there's probably pics on other posts if you search, but if you can't find anything I'll post a pic when I'm back home in a week of what should be behind your mech.
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Awesome!! Yes, I know there is a paper in there, I thought it was there for a reason. Ill pull it out, and see what g
Happens. Ill let you know the result. Thanks!! (I dont know how to post photos. I tried with the reel #s and could not get it to work).
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I pulled out the little piece of paper card stock, it is still taking more than 5 coins. I will dig deeper tonight and keep you posted. (I am keeping everything documented here because I know how others problems helped me with other things).
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After you take a photo and have it filed, use the "Attachments and other options" below.
There’s a limit to the file size. If it is exceeded a notice will appear.
Also, occasionally there’s an orientation problem with a photo.
A photo of the coin lockout mechanism would be helpful.
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if your picture is too big and you don't know how to reduce the size, email pics to slotpics@cdyn.com and I'll downsize them and attach them to this topic for people to look at and give you suggestions.
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Thanks Wolftalk!!! Will do!! I love this site.
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sorry about delay.
first pic below is what dan sent me, and beneath that is what should be behind the coin mech. Dan is missing the armature plate, spring, retaining clip and a couple screws.
the red paper may have been shoved in there if the lockout coil is loose and they didn't want to remove the frame from the door to access the mounting screw.
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The pink paper could be added as extra insulation.
As the coil core will be attacked to the nearest metal object.
Despite the rubber mount and brass retaining screw.
Easy to test the coil with a screwdriver.
Shouldn’t be to hard to find replacement parts or re-manufacturer.