New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => SIGMA Reel Games => Topic started by: newkid3 on August 02, 2023, 09:30:29 AM
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Hello all, I have a Sigma SG-50 I think it is. The model number actually says W4213. When I got the machine from the guy he said it worked great and then one day it just would not work. I have checked it out and it has the three different power supplies behing the reels. 5v 12v 24v. The fuses are good in all three power supplies. All three supplies have 120v AC going into them. The 5v and 12v are dead and the 24v is only putting out 19v. The LED lights on the 24v but not on 5v and 12v. With all three of them really bad I dont think it is worth trying to fix them. From what I can tell the capacitors all look good. Has anyone replaced these three power supplies with a switching power supply that puts out all three voltages. Any other suggestions for replacing them would be greatly appreciated. The original supplies 5v at 5A, 12v at 4.2A and 24v at 2.1A. Also does anyone know what the board is in the top box? (Last pic) Here are a few pics of machine. Thanks
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Find a compatible Switch mode 3 volt power supply from Meanwell and remove those older supplies.
I did that on our last 3 repairs and it worked perfectly.
You have to consider those original supplies are probably 20 years or older.
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Badbaud, thanks for the reply. The original power supplies are 5v at 5A 12v at 4.2A 24v at 2.1A
The one I was looking at is RT-125D meanwell. The amps are different on it. They are
136W 5V/8A 24V/3A 12V/2A
The 12v amp is lower. I want to make sure I get one that will work. Thankx
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good plan
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Badbaud, do you know if the one I referenced would work? Can you tell me what you used to replace the three power supplies on the ones you did? Thanks
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A Meanwell power supply was suggested. Are they a lot better power supply. Would the other ones out there be ok? I know they have to be thin enough to fit behind the reel mechanism. Anyone have any particular supply suggestions that would meet my needs with what specs I have posted. I have never done anything like this before and just want to make sure I get what I need. Thanks
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Badbaud, do you know if the one I referenced would work? Can you tell me what you used to replace the three power supplies on the ones you did? Thanks
Not sure why these are not bouncing to me?
Sorry, that was a while ago, I had 10 tri voltage power supplies in stock to be used on S5000 power supply conversions.
Since then they have all been installed.
The first step to finding a substitute power supply is to write down your goal.
What is the DC voltage and current ratings on the supplies you want to replace?
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The original power supplies are
5v at 5A
12v at 4.2A
24v at 2.1A
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The Meanwell RQ-125B can handle the 5 Volt and 12 Volt requirements.
I have never seen the 24V power supply go bad. If yours is bad you will have to find a power supply that outputs 24VDC and can handle at least 2 Amps of load.
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The 24v power supply only puts out 19v so something is not right with it. 19v would not be right would it. Thanks
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At over 30 years old I was thinking I should probably replace all 3.
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go for it
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I had the same problem. I found 3 switching power supplies on amazon or ebay with similar ratings. The new ones are physically smaller and the screws are closer together so I had to work at getting the connectors under the screws. If the amps are close or over you are fine. If you are checking the 24v without load it might read low. I think the only 24v I could find was 5A. As long as it physically fits in the space its fine.
Chris
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So I guess which ever way I go I would just cap off the the 120v input wires I do not need to use. I am not sure how it is all hooked up since i have not taken it all apart yet. I wonder if this supply would work or if it is a cheap unit.
The original supplies are
5v 5A
12v 4.2A
24v 2.1A
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT54H9V/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=AHPGS6EZ4OZ6M&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT54H9V/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=AHPGS6EZ4OZ6M&psc=1)
The one from link
Input Voltage: 110V/220V 50Hz-60Hz
Output Voltage: +5V/8A +12/7A +24V/5A
Dimension: 160mm×98mm×38mm
Durable: Yes
It is 1.53 inches deep
Thanks
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I believe I have those supplies, just got back from vacation, will look later and see what I have,
Jim
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So I guess which ever way I go I would just cap off the the 120v input wires I do not need to use. I am not sure how it is all hooked up since i have not taken it all apart yet. I wonder if this supply would work or if it is a cheap unit.
The original supplies are
5v 5A
12v 4.2A
24v 2.1A
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT54H9V/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=AHPGS6EZ4OZ6M&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT54H9V/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=AHPGS6EZ4OZ6M&psc=1)
The one from link
Input Voltage: 110V/220V 50Hz-60Hz
Output Voltage: +5V/8A +12/7A +24V/5A
Dimension: 160mm×98mm×38mm
Durable: Yes
It is 1.53 inches deep
Thanks
Technical specs are fine but look at where the wires terminate and how many there are, It is physically set up for 3 power supplies. You will now have 3 common wires that need to be merged. Not a big deal but be aware.
you will likely need to run extensions and splice into the existing wires depending on where you physically mount the PS.
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It sure if yours is the same design but this is how mine looked after switching to modern switching power supplies.
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I did find these: the three set has the 5-12 and 24 supply, the two set are 5-12 volt supply, also found tested boards for slot and poker, along with cc-16 and black optic sensors.
Jim
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I got the three Meanwell power supplies ordered today. I will report back how it goes when I get them in and installed. Thanks
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I finally got my 3 Meanwell power supplies in and installed in the machine. I have good news and bad news. When I first turned the machine on it came up and said RAMS WRONG. So I opened the door and turned the reset. It then said insert coin. I inserted a coin and it accepted it. I then hit the START button and the reels started spinning. It then gave me an error (NO SPIN 3). I can not get it to clear. All three of the reels do spin. Does anyone know what would cause this error? Here is a pic after I got the new power supplies installed on the metal plate. Thanks
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Swap reel 1 and reel 3.
If you still get a reel 3 message then it is a driver on the main computer board.
If you get a reel 1 error then it is due to a defective reel unit.
Try blowing out the reel optics with some canned air and see if that helps.
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I tried blowing the reels out with canned air and it did not help. I noticed when I reset the machine number 1 and number 2 reel LED's will blink when the reel passes by the reel optics. But on number 3 the LED does not blink. So then I swapped 1 and 3 reels and I still get (NO SPIN 3) error. The LED still did not blink on reel 3. So does that mean it is on the main computer board? If it is a driver can that be fixed? I have some soldering experience. Is there anything else I need to check or do? Thanks
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I am not an expert but I can say I have experienced reel issues on a Sigma game. There are two common trends that causes reel-spin issues (that I know about):
1. The factory clips that hold the ribbon cable along the door comes off. When the door closes the ribbon drags on the reel. If there is ANY resistance on the reel, the machine detects that as an attempt to cheat and stops the game. Look very carefully for any obstruction or drag when the door is closed.
2. The motors can go out. But I highly doubt the motor gave you one spin and then burned out.
Tell me this, if you open the door with the game turned on, are the reels locked tight? Are the motors all holding the reels? Don't force them but they won't spin freely like when the game is turned off. if the motors are working properly you won't be able to spin them when the game is energized. Plus, if the motors are holding the reels, that means they are most likely working. They are stepper motors so they usually work or don't work.
Also, There are 3 keys on the side, one is for Reset, one is for pay out, one Displays the previous spins. If I recall you need to do the reset key before the game will play properly. But since it took a coin and spun that is a good sign. It's telling you that there is a reel issue so focus on that for now.
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Want to clear this up incase my post was confusing. All three reels spin. When I put the coin in and it registered and then hit the start button all 3 reels spun the same but only for maybe 3 or 4 seconds and then stopped. Then the machine started making the error sound and top light started blinking. Then the (NO SPIN 3) error came up on door along with (TILT) light. I have not been able to clear this error. Well I can clear it but it comes right back. If I open the door and turn the reset key it clears the error and all 3 reels start spinning and stop again with sound, error and tilt. It is like the reel optics is not reading it in a certain amount of time and the error comes back. The number 3 reel optic is not reading it I am pretty sure because the LED light never does blink like the number 1 and 2 reels do. I know it's not the LED bulb on the reel because it does the same thing on two different reels in the 3rd position. It also would not be the optics because both reels work in number 1 position. What all could make the optic not read the reel? Is there something on the main computer board that would keep the optic from reading? Would it be a driver in this situation? Thanks
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Yup, sounds like what Badbaud said, likely a problem on the main board. Driver or optics controller. Badbaud would know more about the board. I would start by doing a close inspection of every component on the board and look for damage, corrosion or bad cap.
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It could be time to send the board to me so I can put it on m Sigma board tester and find and replace the bad driver IC.
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The NLG File System has a manual
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I have a manual on my tablet. Well I was trying to decide if I was going to send the board off for repair or buy a good used board someone on here offered me. So I was thinking with all the testing I had done it had to be the board or ribbon cable. So I decided I was going to check continuity on that ribbon cable for reel 3 before I did anything. Well I found two wires of the ten had been completely chewed through and part of the wires missing. The other 8 wires tested good. The weird thing is there is still a good wire between the two that got chewed on. I guess a friendly mouse was in there at some time. Hopefully I can repair the wires and it take care of the issue. No wonder the reel was not reading. Thanks for everyone's help so far.
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Got the ribbon cable repaired and the machine is up and running. I was only able to mess with it a few minutes after I got it all back together. The hopper works. Everything seems to pretty much work. I did notice one thing. If I put 3 nickels in it they register as they should on each one. But if I insert a forth nickel it goes to the hopper but does not give me a credit. Anyone know what could cause this? Also it seems like one of the reel strips is a little off. Can they move and be adjusted on these machine reels? Like maybe it has moved some. Thanks
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Congratulations, it feels good when you identify the cause of malfunction.
Mine did the same thing when you inserted an extra coin but it issued the credit after you played the first 3 coins. Kinda weird. If I recall ( it has been a few years since I sold mine) if you press the button to retain credit instead of paying out it will acknowledge the coin when you first put it in.
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Chris-socal, you know after you said that it made me remember. When I stuck the 4th coin in and then I hit start. When that spin was over the start button lite back up and I was able to hit start again without inserting another coin. So it did give me the credit but just showed up later. Do you know can the reel strips on these machines move some and you need to do something to get the strip lined back up to Pay line correctly? One of mine seems to be off by maybe a 1/2 or less. Thanks
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That I do not know , I can honestly say I have never messed with reel strips. I considered myself fortunate. Badbaud might know. I don’t know if you need to physically shift the strips or if there is an electronic nudge function.
Chris
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I got to mess with the slot machine some today. It is working good. The reel strip was not off adjustment. I think I might have a bulb out in the candle. I am pretty sure one of the lights should come on when I press the change button but it does not. I guess the other one should come on when I open the door. Is this correct? I need to check all of the button lights. I guess I will just have to find out what bulbs I need when I get in there. I also need to clean it up good now. Thanks