New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Universal Reel/Video Games => Topic started by: Pitts256 on December 24, 2021, 07:46:58 AM
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Anyone have a power supply schematic for a Universal Ultra Upright model 94000?
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Well my worse fear has become reality.
My Ulltra power supply failed a few weeks ago.
A darlington array (see picture) has overheated and failed.
If anyone has one of these or a failed power supply with the part intact please PM me as I would like to repair mine. To date I've had no luck finding a YEC YD-1310 or a data sheet to fit a suitable replacement.
At this point I'm going to assume that a replacement part is not available so I'm reverse engineering with the data I have and will be putting together a replacement power supply. For those of you that are in the same situation with a failed power supply...I should have the complete assembly made up within the next week and I'll post a file with the instructions on the build; pin outs, parts list, pics, voltages etc.
-Pitts256
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May want to try calling NLG headquarters in Bullhead City.
Back in 2019 I sold them all my Uni stuff including good and bad Ultra power supplies.
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Thanks
I'll do that.
-Pitts256
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New Power Supply Update:
The new power supply project went as planned.
The Super Mag 7 is alive and well.
Still putting together the build file. I'll post when completed.
-Pitts256
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New Power Supply Update:
Okay, I've put together two files. Part one will build the power supply and get the machine up and running. Part two is for an auxiliary relay which is necessary to restore the three candle lights and the lock release solenoid for the pull handle. Consider Part 2 optional, the release lever for the pull handle can be zip tied open (down position), the machine will operate fine.
I tried to be as detailed as possible with the two files, I'll update and re-post if needed. If there's something that needs clarification please post a comment and I'll respond as quickly as possible. Also share your improvement ideas and I'll include them in the files as well.
-Pitts256
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Nice! Thanks for sharing.
Have you tried the "Reach" feature on this game? "Super Reach" might work too.
https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=511.0
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I did...works great!
Thanks
-Pitts256
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POWER SUPPLY UPDATE:
The new power supply has been working extremely well. The ULTRA MAG 7 has been played for several weeks now and has not missed a beat.
I've attached photo's of the cause for the oem power supply failure. It appears there was a modification on the CPU board to the LED Display driver chip U3 (M54563P). The U3 pin 9 was lifted from the chip socket and a jumper installed from the anode of D26 to U3 pin 9. This modification supplied U3 with +5V rather than +12V. This was done to eliminate a buzz in the sound output, it also reduced the brightness of the LED's slightly. Not sure if this was a factory authorized modification, it does serve the purpose. The problem though was the ground to U3 was not swapped which intern placed a heavier load on a jumper between the +5V and +12V grounds (a trace in the boards center layer). A warning sign the trace was failing was occasionally the sound chip would lock up and the LED display would flicker, a reboot was required to restore the sound. The trace finally failed and took out the power supply when the temperature in my garage workshop hit 95+ degs, the garage now has A/C (lessen learned). I restored the ground by placing a jumper on the bottom side of the CPU board, on the negative leads for C4 & C5 caps.
Hopefully the information provided will prevent power supply failures for those of you that still have these relics running.
-Pitts256
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Thank You Again !!!
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Good timing on your post. I have a Super Mag 7 and a Twin Crowns both with power supply issues. One is completely dead and the other may be on its way out. I really like and appreciate your info on building a new power supply. I did some pricing on the NMP and found they range from $400-$500. Could you tell me what yours ran and where you purchased it? I may have to break down and do some troubleshooting on the original power supplies. I know the dead one is truly dead as it does not work in either machine. Mike C.
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Hi Mike,
Thanks for the feedback.
I found mine on eBay, the timing was perfect. Two brand new NMP650's popped up on a lab supply store for $89.00 ea plus shipping. It wasn't exactly what I needed but with the capability to adjust each of the module voltages I was able to make it work. Still working well as I write this. The only drawback to the NMP650 is the cooling fan, it's on a VFD and on occasion can wind up to create an whining sound.
If you can find a supply that has 5V-12V-24V-30V you should be good to go. Check out the older Universal supplies...RED, GREEN or YELLOW dot. I see they have the same voltage outputs.
-Randy
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Randy...Wow...the timing had to be perfect. I could live with that price. The 400-500 range is a "tad" high for me. I will try to be patient and search a little more. I did try looking a little bit for something similar...but I could not find anything that was adjustable to get the 30V. Thanks again for all the work you did on this! Mike C.
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Randy,
I finally have the parts in and am attempting to assemble everything. I have the Output Relay module completed. Now attempting to finish wiring for the power supply. On your directions, you mention GND1, GND2, and GND3. What are those in relation to? Is one specifc to the 5v, one to the 12v and one to the 24v? If so, which goes to which? I can hardly wait to get this finished and have 2 working slots again!
Mike C.
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Hi Mike,
THE OLD PS:
From the original power supply the +5V1(VCC1), +5V2(VCC2), +12V, +24V and +30V grounds were separated. The +5V1(VCC1), +12V and +30V grounds were later tied together on the CPU board. See below how they ended up on the CPU board.
GND1
+5V1(VCC1)
+12V
+30V
GND2
+5V2(VCC2)
GND3
+24V
THE NEW PS:
As for the new power supply I jumpered the +5V, +12V and +30V grounds together on the supply terminal block. Also GND1 and GND2 are now tied together. I used GND1 for the GND2 as my power supply did not have an additional +5V output to use for +5V1(VCC2) & GND2 pair.
The +24V & GND3 were kept separate.
Let me know if you need more info.
-Randy