New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: newkid3 on February 28, 2024, 03:36:39 PM
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Hello all, background of what I am doing. I had an upright Haywire S Plus machine that the handle coil would not work on it. After troubleshooting everything it came down to the MPU board. So I switched out the boards from my upright and IGT S Plus slant top machines and the game and reel chips. They are both 10mhz boards.
I was able to get the upright machine up and running 100% handle coil is working now.
Both of these machines were working and playing this morning before I did this switch.
When I put the original board from the upright machine in the slant top machine it gives me the 61 error code and then I press the test button for 3 seconds and it dings and turns to 61_1 error code. But when I shut the door and turn the reset key it will not do anything. It just stays on 61_1. So this is not the 61 error code loop where it goes back to 61 error code.
I do have the door optics on this slant top machine bypassed with a regular cherry switch like used in these S Plus and S2000 machines. I have read where some people say there are some chips that will not let you get past the 61_1 code if the door optics are bypassed. I do not know if this is true or not.
You can not get into test mode when you have the 61 or 61_1 error code.
Is there anything special you have to do on these slant top machines maybe?
Any suggestions of what I need to do or am missing.
Thanks
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I quote you...>>> "...some people say there are some chips that will not let you get past the 61_1 code if the door optics are bypassed..."
This would have been probably the best time to tell us what SP chip you have installed, would you agree? :sherlock:
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Sorry I aimed to post these two pics. I guess the answer is yes since you do want to know what chips I have.
Thanks
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Nothing special about an SP731.
It's old as dirt, and just a plain Jane Type 0 chip.
It's NOT an original IGT SP PROM...that's for sure.
Why did you change boards when everything was working? :banghead:
It took us 3 months to get your machine working, and you went go mess it up? :fryingpan:
Swap the boards back to like the way they were working.
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I had asked in another topic about switching them and you told me to keep it simple and just switch the boards and chips. I was doing it basically to test and see if it was a board problem on the original upright Haywire board. Since the Haywire was so easy to set up I thought well I will just set the other board up in the slant top since it dont need a handle coil. Then I had this issue.
Maybe it is a board problem since it has an issue with the handle coil circuit also.
Can I just switch the boards and chips back to the slant top and it be ok since it will be original?
I guess if I do that and I put the original board and chips back in the upright Haywire and it does the same thing with the 61_1 not clearing I will know it is a board issue.
Thanks
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Ok I will switch the boards back in the morning.
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Are you able to find out with a multimeter, if there's power coming out of the 2-pin harness for the handle release coil?
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Have you re-installed the belly door (the metal panel by your knees when you're sitting at the machine) when trying to clear the 61-1? There's a door sensor for the belly door. If you don't have the door installed, the machine sees a door open and won't allow you to clear the 61-1.
Also, yes, there are some SP chips that seem to require optics to get past a 61-1. That would be the next thing I'd try if you did have the belly door installed, closed, and latched and still can't get past the 61-1.
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...When I put the original board from the upright machine in the slant top machine it gives me the 61 error code and then I press the test button for 3 seconds and it dings and turns to 61_1 error code. But when I shut the door and turn the reset key it will not do anything. It just stays on 61_1. So this is not the 61 error code loop...
Correct, when you swapped boards, the machine recognized that.
You will have to put in a set of working optics to get past the [61-1] when using an SP731.
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knagl, are you talking about the big square metal door that goes between the bottom door and the top door? I do not have it installed. Are you saying it will let you play the game with that door not installed but will not let you clear the 61_1? Because I was playing the game without it installed before I did this swap. Where and what kind of a sensor is this for that big door?
Thanks
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Stayouttadabunker, now wait a minute. In your reply 1 you scolded me for asking the question of do some chips have to have door optics to clear 61_1 and not posting the pics of the chips I aimed to post and forgot. So then I posted them and then in your reply 3 you said there is nothing special about chip SP731 that it was old as dirt. Also telling me to swap the boards back. Now you are telling me it has to have a set of working optics to clear the 61_1 error. So I am confused.
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:rotfl: Yeah.
Sorry....SP731 is one of those chips that just won't get past [61-1] when using the bypass.
I have no idea why, because when I tried it this morning, and I had to use optics to get past it.
We learn something new everyday....lol
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Ok I put the Belly door back on and it still did not clear the 61_1.
Stayouttadabunker, so you actually tested it. So you think that is my problem for sure?
Can I take a set of door sensors out of a working S2000 and mount them on a small board facing each other then plug the door sensor in and close the door enough having away to support the door that I can plug the cabinet sensor in long enough to turn the reset key and clear 61_1? Something like that at least. If there is enough room for me to do that. I might have to actually mount them in the cabinet and get them lined up some how. It's not as easy in a slant top machine that's for sure.
If I need to open the door I could just put a business card or something solid between the sensors to make it show open if the board trick or something like it will work.
Once you cleared the 61_1 then the machine would play with the door sensors bypassed like mine was with that chip correct?
Once I get the game booted up I can unhook the sensors and plug the bypass plugs back in.
Thanks
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I wonder if it is that it actually has to have the door sensors hooked up or that all 4 wires have to be hooked up for that chip to recognize the door as shut.. Just an idea.
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Well I have the slant top up and running. I threw in a set of door sensors and turned it on and got 61 error. I pushed the test button for 3 seconds and got the ding and 61_1. I closed the door and turned the Jackpot key and the 61_1 went away and it came up with a 49 error. Reels not connected. Then I pushed down on the door real good and hard. The 49 error went away the reels spun and I could play it.
So from this the SP731 chip does definatly have to have door optics hooked up to clear the
61_1 error code. I am not sure they even have to be lined up for the 61_1 error to clear. Since mine cleared and then it gave me the reel error and I had to push down hard on the door and hold it for the reels to spin and me be able to play it. So I am not sure about that.
So I took the door sensors out and hooked my sensor bypass wires back up and it is playing good.
By swapping these boards I saved the money of having the original upright board worked on or buying another board to get the handle coil working on the upright. Since the slant top does not need the handle coil.
Thanks
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Yep...once the [61-1] is erased, you can go back to the bypass.
I don't know if hooking the two other ground wires will help get past the [61-1]with an SP731?
From what I understand, they're ground wires for the optics, so they can be powered up.
It's certainly warrants an investigation, as there's room for those on a cherry switch.
***UPDATE***
I added two more wires to the bypass cherryswitch.
It still doesn't let me get past [61-1] using an SP731.
I was correct, the other two wires are just ground wires to power up the optics.
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knagl, are you talking about the big square metal door that goes between the bottom door and the top door? I do not have it installed. Are you saying it will let you play the game with that door not installed but will not let you clear the 61_1? Because I was playing the game without it installed before I did this swap. Where and what kind of a sensor is this for that big door?
Yes, that is the door. If you have previously successfully played that machine with that door open then someone had previously bypassed the door sensor. As such, you can disregard what I said for your machine.
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knagl, this is a S Plus slant top machine. I have looked and can not find anywhere that the sensor could have been for that door/panel. The door below it has a switch on it. Where would the sensor on this machine be located for that door/panel?
I could see it not having anything for that door/panel because the main door has to be open to remove that door/panel.
Thanks
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knagl, this is a S Plus slant top machine. I have looked and can not find anywhere that the sensor could have been for that door/panel. The door below it has a switch on it. Where would the sensor on this machine be located for that door/panel?
I could see it not having anything for that door/panel because the main door has to be open to remove that door/panel.
Again, if the machine works with the panel off then you can disregard looking for it. Either it doesn't exist on that machine or it has been successfully bypassed. The machine will not allow you to play if it thinks a door is open. If it's playing with that panel open, it doesn't know any better.
On my bartop machine, there is a small photo sensor about halfway down along the right hand side of that panel (it bounces a signal off of a reflective piece on the panel to know if the panel is installed or not), but it can be bypassed by jumping two of the wires together. It was my understanding that the slant top machines were set up in the same way, but it has been well over a decade since I've seen the inside of an S+ slant top machine. As such, I can't say for certain that the slant tops have a similar sensor on the door panel, but I was under the impression that they did.