New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: t28c34 on November 27, 2022, 12:54:12 PM
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Is there anyone around north central Illinois that can bring a Bally S6000 board to hand have tested? Winter is coming on, time to start tinkering with this machine again. In the past I have had problems with it in the past with 88 codes. Would replace the battery and it would work for a while then back to problems with 88. I put in a new board with leave in chips and new battery from a reliable source. Work really good for a while, then the same thing all over again. I have a new battery on order to try that. I'm wondering if there could be something corrupt with the game chips that are causing problems? Is there anyone near me that would be able to help out?
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Sounds like a bad power supply DC module PT65-B
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Where about is that at and what should it test out at?
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Where about is that at and what should it test out at?
see the attached, the power supply box is on the back wall behind the hopper.
Unplug the large connector on the left and use a meter to check +12, +5, and -12 voltages using the single ground.
Don't bother with any other voltages.
The module that produces those 3 voltages is inside the metal box. It is a PT65B made by Meanwell and can be purchased from Jameco or Mouser Electronics.
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Tested the power supply, all voltages are there as listed. My battery is at 3.61volts. When i run a reset, Ill get either all 8s or 88, or 88FF. sometimes it is off the wall that i get like 8..8 8888. What could cause suck a failure?
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88FF is a battery connection issue possibly. When you see several 8's on the display, the board is not fully seated. The boards are tight fitting. They need a firm push to fully seat to the backplane. You can spray WD40 on the board's edge connector to make it connect much easier.
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there are also voltage test points on the lower left side of the motherboard. you should be able to see them, they are colorful.
be sure to check your main board for bent pins at the rear connector also.
you can also lift out your saferam chips , very carefully of course, then reseat them. Condensation can affect their connection to the socket.
Thanks,
Wayne
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Tim,
I'm seating the board in really good, but still getting the 8s. I re checked the power supply again and getting good readings on all the points. when you mentioned Wd-40, did you mean right on the pins or on the sides of the tray where it slides in?
Wayne,
I always check for bent pins and they are all good. Where is the test points you were talking about? Here is my board
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After a clear procedure and turning the game off you must turn DIP switch 8 back to the off position before turning the board back on.
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Yep, just like it says, machine off and turn 8 back off, hold the door open and wait for the bumping. Nothing. just the 8s
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Spray lube onto the pins. It will seat much easier and properly. The mains are not labeled leave in clear mains? Are they? If they are not leave in clear mains, using switch 8 will not perform the clear. Or do you have to use the removeable clear chips for the mains that are in there? Have you seen CLC on the display when performing the clear?
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U30 and U45 maybe the culprits if all else is found to be good.
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I bought the board from Jim from Midwest slots. I don't remember if those are my U30 and U45 or leave ins from him. I do have some reset chips I think I'll put in and see if that does it
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I have found a lot of problems with leave in clear chips. Removed mine and put in standard clears and no more problems.
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Ok I just tried the original clear chips I have and still get the 8s all the way across. But also, the buttons are blinking it two short bursts. I remember reading something about that. But after re trying several more times, the blinking stopped and no buttons light up. What do I try next? New chips all together?
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Wayne,
Where is the test pints you were talking about? Here is my board
The test points are on the backplane board. The backplane is attached to the back wall of the machine, it's the board that your main board, in your picture, connects to when pushed in.
Thanks,
Wayne
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=37876.0;attach=117152)
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Thanks Wayne,
At the text points I get Red 4.98, Black 12.15, Green 12.09, Yellow 21.9. and blue 7.6 vac
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U30 and U45 maybe the culprits if all else is found to be good.
Sunrise Side,
When you mentioned that, I was thinking the leave in clear chips not U30 and U45. I swapped out the U30 and U45 chips out of my original board. and kept my set of Bally clear chips in and still get the 8s and the buttons blinking twice. Could it be two sets of bad U30 and U45 chips?
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Only a small chance. You changed the mains? Both boards have the same issue? So is it the chips that were transferred from the old board to the new board? Try this, leave the MPU out of the machine and turn the power on, what's on the display?
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When i got the new board, it came with the new mains. I just had to put in my game chips. after a while it started to develop the issues. I just tried it with the board out. It The florescent lights light up and the bally game all rights reserved plays
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Did the old board have the same problem you are having now?
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https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=30564.msg161511#msg161511
88-3 was the code last time. The only chips I haven't swapped out are the U18 and U20. Are those the culprits?
Something new just happened. I read back in those old post, you mentioned JW20. I pulled it off with tweezers and it took flight. I'm still looking for it. but I did steel one off my old board. with my old clear chips in, it cleared. swapped out the old ships with the newer ones and seen in the picture posted earlier. Turn it on with the door open, it shows 88 first, then the date setting. It's up and running. I'm going to leave it on a while. before after a while it would chirp and pe back to locked up. Boy how i would like to play it all day to test it but i have work to do. So, what do you think now of my possessed game?
Half hour latter now, and about twenty pulls, it chirped and get a 80 code.
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Ok, I have left it on hours at a time, playing it on and off and no hiccups.
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What was the last change you made to resolve it?
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I pulled off JW20 to check it and re seat it. but it flew out of the tweezers. So, I robbed one off of another board, ran a clear and it came up running. Could that have been the problem? I'm trying to find the old on and take a close look at it.
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Could be. Any of those jumpers can be oxidized and cause issues. I have had a few boards where the casino techs had taken the jumpers off of some of the critical jumpers and soldered the pins together. I have had to replace the jumpers on some of my boards for that very reason.
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Thanks Tim, definitely let everyone know if it acts up again. I did find the jumper that came off, tested it and it seems OK but who knows. I thought about that of soldering the two together.
Going to start a thread on another project now.
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After two days of leaving it on for a while on and off and playing it, it chirped today and showed 80 a code. I tried a reset; it showed 88 as I held in the buttons. after a few seconds it switched to the C prompts, shut it off and turned the dip switch off. Turned the machine back on and left the door open. Only an 88 code came up. Tried a reset again and it just stays at 88 while holding the buttons.
Are U18 and U20 a suspect? I haven't changed those out yet. Any more ideas?