New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: phurst on September 21, 2021, 06:13:36 AM
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Good evening. I recently went to go look at a PE Joker Wild machine. The seller said it needed a battery, and the pictured in the ad indicated as much. Low Battery, Call Attendant. When I arrived and the seller turned on the machine, all we got was a blank screen. The monitor was obviously on, I could feel the static, and the screen was what you might call "white". We let it run for a while to see if the monitor was just slow in showing a picture, but there was no change over 6 or 7 minutes. As a result, I ended up getting it for what might as well be free.
Got it home, opened it up and pulled the MPU board to try reseating it, and it sure looks like someone at some point spilled a drink inside the cabinet. So, I guess I need to know how to determine if I need to replace one or both boards, and where I might find them. There are a few PE+ boards on eBay, but I didn't know if they were interchangeable, and I really only seemed to be able to find the MPU, not whatever the other board is, which definitely looks to be the worse of the two.
If I power on with the game board removed, the screen stays black. With it installed, the screen is "white". I get no reaction to pressing any buttons on the front of the machine, the test button inside or with the reset key.
(https://i.imgur.com/YWHjujW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yYoev2x.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JxzF0CU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GpoEDr8.jpg)
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I'm afraid that's not a spilled drink. It's damage from the MPU battery that leaked out and corroded everything in it's path. I think your best bet is to locate another motherboard and MPU board. Look for a"Superboard" MPU. A superboard allows you to have a multi-poker menu system with 5 different poker games.
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Makes sense. Will a super board work in a PE, I thought they were only compatible with PE+ machines. Do you know if PE+ backplane are the same? I see several for sale but none marked as for a PE.
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Sorry, I missed the fact that it's a PE not a PE+ :duh: :duh:. PE and PE+ MPU/motherboards are not interchangeable as far as I know.
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If you can get me a part number from the backplane (motherboard) , I probably have it, I do have the mpu as well.
Jim
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PE doesn't have a backplane board.
PE Plus and PE Plus Super boards do.
The pictures show a PE Plus board.
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I agree with Badbaud -- that appears to be an early PE+.
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Interesting, so I COULD potentially use a superboard?
I removed the backplane last night just to clean up any remaining battery juice in the cabinet. While I had it out and was wiping it off, I noticed an obviously broken trace. I fixed it, and now I'm at least getting a picture. I have no real illusions of successfully repairing either board, but I thought it was cool that it fixed something, and if nothing else I can verify the monitor is in good working order. There are obviously still issues though, as pressing the reset button does absolutely nothing. No resetting, no menu, and that door close message is on screen even with the door closed. Both lights in the candle are now flashing as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/KffVgxU.jpg)
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yes, you could use a superboard, older PE machines had the board mounted in the back and had cables and connectors going to the board.
you would need the right software for the super board, and the CORRECT CAP chip , it is important to get the right cap chip or else the color presentation is off.
a quick and easy way to identify which board is which. look at the location of the battery, PE plus have the battery on the outer edge.
here is a picture of the two boards.
Jim
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That button is not a reset button it is a self test button used to set up options.
To reset errors on a PE+ simply open then close the door.
When the door optics are lined up a system reset occurs.
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Oh, interesting! I assume the "reset" key on the side serves some other function?
Is it reasonable to assume the fact that the door open message stays on the screen even when the door is closed, and the CMOS message doesn't clear, and the fact that the self test button doesn't do anything is because my boards are hosed? The door optics are there, but without being able to self test, I don't know of another way to verify they're working. I guess what I'm asking is, is replacing both boards likely to resolve my issues and return the machine to a functioning state, or are there likely to be additional issues?
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It could be your self test button is defective, don't toss out the baby with the bath water.
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The DOOR OPEN message should go away when the door is closed. The fact that it is not could be an indication of broken door optics, and ultimately you'll have to get that resolved in order to successfully clear the error and be able to play the machine.
For kicks, though, let's go through the motions of trying to get past the error on the screen:
Open the door, and press and hold the Self Test button for about ten seconds, then release it. If your speaker is working, you should hear a ding.
Next, close and fully latch the door, then turn the jackpot reset key switch on the side of the machine once and release it. If the machine correctly sees the door as closed and if the switches are working correctly, the error message you're seeing should clear.
You will likely encounter a second error message. Repeat the above procedure to clear that.
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Unfortunately, I've already tried with no success. Does anyone know if the MPU or the backplane are responsible for things like running the door optics and the self test button?
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Those signals run through the backplane to the MPU. Either one could be the cause, but I'd try the backplane first. Yours had a lot of corrosion from the leaky battery and no doubt got into the connectors as well.
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I would suggest trying a set of known good door optics, too. It's certainly possible that the door optics are bad
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I did find the backplane board, I think. here are some pictures of the board I have. Jim
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That looks like one for a slant top.
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Yeah, that one definitely doesn't look like mine.
(https://i.imgur.com/ljdzu11.jpg)
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Yes, that is definitely different,however, I believe I found the right board!, have so many different types and never did mark any of them . I did mark that board pictured, however just put PE + board,
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Bingo! and it looks like the main power header has already been updated.
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Ok, back at it. I now have a new backplane and I scooped up a superboard as well. Got everything installed, now when I power on, I get "Call Attendant" with both candle lights flashing. Reset key does nothing.
(https://i.imgur.com/vqts7WD.jpeg)
If I open the door, I get "Door Open" "Call Attendant", and "EEPROM Data".
(https://i.imgur.com/MqLmvy0.jpeg).
I can press the little white button, screen blinks, close the door, then turning the reset key takes me to a stats page.
(https://i.imgur.com/yuExFP2.jpeg)
I can browse and reset stats, but that'sit. If I hit Bet One, it verifies data, then goes back to plain old "Call Attendant".
Thanks for the help thus far, progress has been made (I think...).
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Press the white test button WITH THE DOOR OPEN until you hear a DING.
Then release the white button and close the door.
If you get another error turn the jackpot reset key and the game will come up.
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Just to clarify Badbaud's post, when you have the door open and the EEPROM DATA error, press and hold the white Self Test button inside the machine for at least five seconds. If your speaker is working you should hear a ding. Next, close and latch the door, then turn the jackpot reset key switch once and release.
Repeat the procedure if needed if a different error message appears.
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That's what I'm doing. I'm not getting a ding, but I'm not concerned about audio at this point. Hold it in for 5+ seconds, screen blinks when I let go, close the door, turn reset key and I get the stats page. Exit the stats screen and then it just says "Call Attendant". No other errors, and machine won't react any further.
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You may have some bad door optics.
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Installed new door optics today, and no change in behavior. I'm showing just under 10v on the cabinet side, and just under 6v on the door side. I'm not sure what else to check to verify they're functioning.
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The door side should be pulsing, can you hold your phone camera up to it and see the pulses?
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I see no pulses through the phone camera unless they're incredibly subtle and I just can't make them out. Since I'm getting voltage at the optics connector, I assume my "new" optics are suspect? They're not terribly expensive if trying another set might yield different results.
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Ok, I'm a dummy. I was looking at the cabinet optic, not the door one. I can see that it's emitting light, but it seems to be solid on, I don't see any flashing.