New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => Aristocrat Video Gaming Machines => Topic started by: Rane420 on August 05, 2017, 07:12:48 AM
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Hello all,
I posted before about my desire to pick up a Miss Kitty. Back on March. 1, I decided to pull the trigger and place my order for an MK6 Miss Kitty. Two weeks later my machine arrived well wrapped and strapped to it's own pallet, but not well enough protected to handle whatever the shipping company dropped on it. Aside from a metal container, I don't think much would have protected it.
The seller had insurance on the delivery and allowed me to return it and shipped out another cabinet. April 14 and my new machine arrives without anything dropped on it, but the MPU box broke free in the process and was loose in the main cabinet. I was able to rig up a mount for the MPU and get the machine to boot up, but had some logic door issues that seemed to be related to some low batteries. I replaced the batteries which seems to have helped the logic door errors. However, after a few minutes of play the machine would then go into a cycle of rebooting providing messages about "Dafa epromchk .c: AVL Media CRC! = calculated CRC!". I don't know if the MPU having come free caused my issues or if it something unrelated.
On April 29th I reached out to the seller and communications were slow, but he was willing to help. I was told that it was the power supply and that he'd send one out. I received a power supply in late June and performed the swap on July 3rd. I may have done something wrong in the swap, but it doesn't boot up at all now. It keeps cycling to a "Game Version Check OK" message.
I've sent a couple messages to the seller and haven't heard back. I'm sure he's frustrated to be still dealing with this sale from March, but I still don't have a working machine and I'm not sure what to do to get it running. It's a pretty machine and I'd love to be able to use it.
If anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it.
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It keeps cycling to a "Game Version Check OK" message.
I'm sure that the Aristocrat experts will chime in. Are you just turning on the cabinet or are you using your set/clear chips to set the cabinet up first?
When I experienced that issue with my cabinet rebooting it was because I had choose the WRONG game type when I set it up. In my experience [NOOB] you have to pick the correct game type [Reel Power, Multi Line, Cashman, etc] or you will not get very far in your set up.
Put in a request for the correct set up for Miss Kitty [I don't have it our I would share] and try again...
[PS, i'm talking the US version of any Aristocrat games]
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This is some bad luck you've had, sorry to hear about it. Shipping is always a worry and has some risk, we've all heard horror stories about it. A shipping experience is only as good as the various guys handling the shipment along the way, just takes one uncaring moron to mess things up.
I think the things you can try with the seller will depend on whether it is an individual or a company that you bought the Miss Kitty machine from. If it is an individual they will have a practical limit to what all can be done to make this right. If you bought from a company they would more likely (but not always) do more just to keep you as a satisfied customer for future sales, both from yourself and others you would tell about your experience with the company.
If the card cage (mpu box) broke free from its mounting that makes me think the machine was dropped or jarred quite a bit. You can check the chips on the mpu board that are in sockets, press down on them to make sure none are loose. Also make sure all cable connectors are firmly connected, stuff like that might have become loose when the machine was shipped or dropped (if that's what happened to it).
Maybe if you can figure out what is wrong with the machine you can repair it yourself, hopefully there are others familiar with it that can help. The seller may be willing to give advice or suggestions and help in that way if they get the feeling that you don't blame them or expect them to keep sending you parts. If the shipping company was at fault on the 2nd machine damage wouldn't the shipping company have to make some type of settlement with the seller?
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Thank you for the responses. I did buy from a company and I think I have been working with the owner. He has been willing to help but I suspect he is just wishing this transaction would come to a close. I can't blame him, but he may yet respond. I'll reach out again next week, but thought I'd get a thread started up on here as well in case it turns out I can get it resolved on my side.
I've tried reseating most of the connections, but you raise a good point on the chips I don't think I've tried them. I don't know if he filed a claim or not on the second machine. I did send a pic of the damage so he may have submitted something and not mentioned it.
I don't have any clear or set chips, so the game still has the configuration it shipped with. Hopefully the power supply swap wouldn't cause me to need to do any configuration changes.
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I don't know anything about the Aristocrat machines so can't give specific advice, wish I could. But there are others here that do know about them. Sometimes it can take a day or so for people to login, hopefully you'll get some good ideas and advice soon. Also, feel free to post as many photos as you can of the machine. Photos usually cause more responses to a problem request and sometimes someone will see something in a photo that leads to fixing the problem. You can attach several photos to each post, up to a limit of 5 per post I think. If you can scale down the photo so it isn't huge then you will have less trouble uploading it and everyone else will be able to view it faster. But if you can't do that we can maybe do it for you. The photo you posted earlier is fine.
Since the machine was a good working one that the seller shipped (no reason to doubt that) then I'd think the problem is due to the mishap it had, so look it over carefully for any other damage or something loose. You may need to pull out the hopper and stick your head back in there with a light to see that all looks ok. The wiring cables on machines are often routed here and there in the back, many connect to some type of a backplane or motherboard. Since you know that the mpu board was jarred loose fairly hard I'd take an extra close look at it, see if the board has any cracks from being flexed too much. If there were other circuit boards with the mpu board or near it check them for any damage. If the mpu card cage came completely loose look to see if it could have struck any other boards nearby. Does this machine have a hard drive or crdom drive that could have gotten damaged? Hopefully the software is all on eprom.
Remember to power off or unplug the machine when you are disconnecting or reconnecting stuff, most electronics doesn't like that when power is on.
Also, since you are an NLG contributing member you have access to the download area. There are some Aristocrat manuals there, here is one for the Mk6 model in case you don't have it, maybe it is for your machine:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=174 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=174)
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Thanks again. The manual will definitely come in handy. I'm going to spend some time now going through the chips and rechecking connections. While I do, I thought i'd post some more background.
This video is from before the power supply swap when it was so sort of working. It shows the error when it would simply reboot and resume playing:
https://youtu.be/cdwvGrztG1I (https://youtu.be/cdwvGrztG1I)
This is also from before my power supply swap, during the times it would shut down and not come back up. Sometimes it would do this a couple times and resume, other times I could spot check for days and it would continue to cycle:
https://youtu.be/yK-SftbnSRQ (https://youtu.be/yK-SftbnSRQ)
This video is what I currently see when I turn on the machine:
https://youtu.be/HMPClXJtgW4 (https://youtu.be/HMPClXJtgW4)
I've also attached a picture of how the cabinet looked inside when I first opened up the machine.
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I forgot to answer earlier, but it is all eprom based. At least as far as I am seeing. I checked the chips on the boards and took a couple more pictures.
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Could you reinstall the original power supply if you wanted to? Was the machine working better before you installed the 2nd power supply? Did you get a good feeling that the seller was sending you a new or verified working replacement power supply?
Glad you were able to download the Mk6 manual. There may be other manuals or documentation in there for your machine. If you need any help getting around the NLG download area let us know. Here is the Aristocrat folder showing all that it contains:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=2 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=2)
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I agree, it's probably worth going back to the original power supply to see if I can return to my previous status. At least that way I'll be able to get a feel for whether it was user error performing the swap that caused the boot failure or the current power supply. I had assumed it was tested good and that the core of my problem would fall at my feet for missing something when switching them. I don't see a good way to remove the bill validator cage to gain access to the power supply, so I had to remove my bracket and twist the mpu cage out of the way to make the change originally, but now that I have a manual maybe I can find a better way :-)
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Power supply change on Mk VI. Remove the two nuts over the DBA, lean the DBA out(beware of tight wires.) Then you can get to all power supply plugs and fasteners and maneuver it out past the DBA cage.
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I got around to watching your videos, it appears possibly PS related, OR could be an over-heat situation in video 1, being a home user simply have the logic door open and peek if that fan is running.
It may need a ram clear if the weak battery wasn't changed first.
Mk6 and Mk7 are notorious for needing logic door cycles after power outages regardless of battery condition, in a sealed casino use the flimsy mk6 logic door can be tweeked on the left side to cycle it.
The eproms, can be reseated without causing a ram clear, the usual precautions are paramount.
If a ram clear is required shorting certain contacts on the board will be sufficient, no clear chip needed.
An old NLG doc on MK6 Ram clearing: http://melissarmdlm.ddns.net/docs/Ramclear_Exceed_Xcite.pdf (http://melissarmdlm.ddns.net/docs/Ramclear_Exceed_Xcite.pdf)
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Thank you. I had tried taking the two nuts off when I changed the supply last time, but hadn't realized that it could tilt that far and couldn't unfasten the bottom. I ended up also having to loosen some of the validator cage to get it past the shelf, but that was a much better method than pulling the mpu.
The old power supply brought up the game, but it had a memory issue. From some searching that appears to be related to needing a clear. I don't have time to play with it anymore today, but will try a clear and see what that does for me. If that gets me up and running I'll also do the checks to see if that fan is running. I think the microswitch For the logic door has been bypassed so watching it while running shouldn't be an issue.
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In order to save most important settings the logic door switch will need to be open. If it's bypassed that will need to be fixed.
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I found the bypassed (zip tied) logic door switch, but hit a second hiccup. I was not provided a barrel key for the audit switch. Is this machine specific or is it more universal like a jackpot reset key? I'll put out a want to buy, but wanted to make sure I knew what I needed first.
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I found the bypassed (zip tied) logic door switch, but hit a second hiccup. I was not provided a barrel key for the audit switch. Is this machine specific or is it more universal like a jackpot reset key? I'll put out a want to buy, but wanted to make sure I knew what I needed first.
I don't know if that barrel key is a universal one. But if it isn't is the audit switch mounted in a way that you can easily remove the wires from it, replace the switch with another one that comes with a key and then reconnect the wires? A lot of these slot machine switches just have 2 wires on them and the switch is either "open" or "closed". If so you can even replace them with an on-off toggle switch and not have to use a key. The key activated switches are a security feature that's important in the casino environment, but for home use they are not so needed.
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Sadly, it looks a bit more complicated than just the two wires. There are 4, with 2 tied into the jackpot reset switch. I'm all for doing some sort of toggle solution if I can figure out which wires need to be jumped together. If it turns out the barrel key is universal, then it's probably worth having some extra patience to get one ordered.
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All 3 of the MAV500 cabinets that I have worked on have the same barrel key, the number 5101.
IMHo you are working way too hard on this, order up a key.
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Found this on the old NLG archive site:
Jpau:
hello guys !!!!
does any of you know where can I get an attendant or audit key for an Aristocrat MKV slot???
will really appreciate any help.
thanks.
AnotherTech:
Do you have a slant top or an upright? They use different keys. The upright uses a #5101 barrel key. The slant top uses a #1452 barrel key. Both use a 2341 for the reset key.
You can get the reset key from ebay, just search "slot machine reset key 2341"
I don't know of anywhere to get just the other keys, but you can get a whole new 5101 lock with keys.
If you have a slant top, you're kind of screwed. I don't know anywhere to get the #1452 key. Maybe one of the NLG vendors on the home page has them.
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Thank you both. WTB posted
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I have a Miss Kitty MK6 and the keys are 5101 barrel and H2192 Chicago lock key.
The 5101 lock is a left and right rotation lock that is why there is 4 wires on the switch.
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Hi all, I received my key, but sadly it does not fit into the switch. It has 5101 on it and the lock says 5101 on it, so I'm not sure what the issue is, but I'm thinking it is time to do a work around. I picked up a few switches from the local Fry's but have some general questions.
Is switch one that is spring loaded and returns to center once released or does it stay In position until manually turned back?
From the manual I can see that turning the key clockwise enters the operator mode, but I see no reference to turning the key counterclockwise. What is the expected result of a counterclockwise key turn?
And now for the long shot, does anyone know which connections are made in each of the key positions? Without a key to turn and test with I'm not sure how I need to connect my wires.
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I'm at work and if no one gives you a answer I will look at my machines and give you the key positions.
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Hi all, I received my key, but sadly it does not fit into the switch. It has 5101 on it and the lock says 5101.
Hey Corey, sorry for stating the obvious but I guess I'm gonna.
Does the key fit the lock at all? My keys need to be rotated till the 2 barrels [for a better description] line up. Then my locks are spring activated where I need to apply pressure inward for the key to seat and turn.
The most mine turn are like a 1/4 turn or less to get onto the setup/operator menus.
If I remember right when I turn the key to the right I get to the menu screen. To get out of the screen I need to turn the key back to the left.
Maybe your switch is defective? That sucks man...
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Thank you.
Also, I don't object at all to statements that should be obvious. My ability to face palm is quite strong, but as far as I can see this isn't one of those times. It doesn't fit at all and the bumps on the lock don't line up with the key.
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Ok I checked my machine an the key is like this.
Turn the top of the key counterclockwise to turn on the light for the meters.
Turn the key clockwise to get into the programming menu.
The key center on your lock is in the counterclockwise position and needs to be turned back to center as in the picture.
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Corey, that know as a "barrel Lock" we had that problem all the time in the vending business. we had two keys to resolve that problem and your problem.
you don't need a second key, you just have to be aware of your situation when you use the key.
the solution is simple, file off the outside guide, the only protruding metal on the outside, this will allow you to insert the key at the offset from 12 o'clock and operate the key lock. now you will be able to use the lock.
Hope this helps
Jim
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Proten, thank you so much for checking that out for me! As it turns out the rewire may be postponed another day.
Jim, thank you as well! Filing down the key, did the trick as far as the lock mech goes. I have a wire to resolder before I can test, but it's looking up!