New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: David Walz on March 28, 2018, 08:12:30 PM
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Does Bally use special fuses? I have the book, diagram that says 15 amp. Seems the auto parts store fuses seems small and its hard to get them out. Also the fuse gets really hot, and I have checked everything out no shorts in the sysyem. This fuse is for the light bulbs, and they are a lot.The fuses I am using look like they have a small wire inside. As of right now this is the last issue, everything is functioning.
The other fuses are doing great, the slot machine is functioning perfect I got the cat gut and filled up the spaces in the wire harness where the old cat gut was missing.
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It a standard glass fuse like used in earlier cars before they went to the new style. I think the measure like 30-33mm in length and 6mm across.
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They may be something like this, we called them "cartridge fuses", or "Buss Fuses" because of a popular brand. There is a wire filament encased in clear glass or opaque white body. The fuse rating is stamped on the metal end cap of the fuse. Also, they come in "Fast-Blo" and "Slow-Blo" varieties. Slow-Blow fuses would be for stuff that has higher initial amps (surge current) but then drops to a lower amount quickly, such as a motor.
(https://s9.postimg.org/k2lxgyuof/617_BHQ3_Ysz_L._SL1024.jpg)
(https://s9.postimg.org/skvdle8xr/Buss-fuses-agx-20-1-pack-5-fuses-picture.jpg)
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I believe that the fuses I bought were shorter, an they may be overheated. What do think?
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If they were too short they would fit at all. I think you only have the choice of the two lengths. 30mm and a 20mm. If your running the #44 GE bulbs over the #47 that could be drawing a little more amps. The #47 run a little cooler and are my choice of replacement bulbs when working on these style games. I want to keep the energy draw down as much as possible when I have one or two of the fired up.
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I believe that the fuses I bought were shorter, an they may be overheated. What do think?
Lay the fuse you bought down next to a ruler and measure its length. Also, with the fuse in your hand put the fuse cap on the end of the fuse, it should fit snugly. Any loose metal connection with some amps going thru it will get hot. These old machines sometimes have fuseholder caps that are loose fitting. If you think about it, 15 amps is a lot of electricity. The wall outlet in a typical home has a 15 amp (sometimes 20 amp) circuit breaker on it and it uses #12 solid copper wire. A "beast" vacuum cleaner uses 12 amps. So 15 amps is a good amount of electricity. If the fuseholder or cap isn't snug then it will get hot. There's usually a spring in the bottom of the fuseholder to keep the fuse tight against both ends of the fuseholder. Also, if the metal parts of the fuseholder are corroded that's not good, makes for a bad connection.
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I’ve had my fair share of Bally fuse holder fail. The top part of the metal inside breaks off. It looks like it’s made of Aluminum. I don’t know if you replaced your fuse holders when you did you restoration, but you might consider it, if this ones giving you a problem.
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Awesome ideas, im going to get the new fuses fuse holders and order some bulbs. :thank_you:
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The fuse holder, a 15 amp for the 6 volt system had a broken piece of metal on the bottom of the fuse holder, the fuse holder inside was gross, this was a on going problem that was obviously very old, the system was not getting a good contact creating a gap that overheated the fuse burning the wire ends. This fuse holder was the one where the fuse would get stuck making it impossible to remove. Now its a cool cat.
:cool_thumb_up:
The rest of the fuses are work ing excellent, all of the connections are clean, without any issues. Now all of the fuses can be removed easily.
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That's a good fix. The lights on the 6 volt bus that fuse controls should be a little brighter. That old fuseholder that was getting hot means it was "dropping" (absorbing) some of the voltage and reducing the amps that went out to the various bulbs on the circuit.
As Amechanic said earlier, you can use a compatible bulb that has a different bulb number and it will use less electricity. Each bulb (lamp) has a milliamp rating, the lower that number the less heat and less elec it uses. The heat is one of the reasons that the plastic pushbutton lens covers can darken or turn yellow over the years. On newer machines they have started using LED lamps to reduce the heat and electricity needed for all the lighting, which also helps the power supply in the machine not have to work so hard.
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All completed, the blue wire was toasted. I trimmed the end off and re-soldered it.
:thank_you:
It's great when I can get good information about my project from others who know the issues and have great insight on resolutions. Seems it's hard to find people who have the skills to solve complex problems especially these old slot machine.
I know from my experience, when I was young I couldn't have done this, it would be a total FUBAR. I had no patience for this complex project.
:wav: :wav: :wav:
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.....I know from my experience, when I was young I couldn't have done this, it would be a total FUBAR. I had no patience for this complex project......
From all you've done with this machine you'll soon be able to help others that are starting out on getting an old machine working, like you were not long ago. And no matter how long a person is in this hobby they can still learn more.
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.....I know from my experience, when I was young I couldn't have done this, it would be a total FUBAR. I had no patience for this complex project......
From all you've done with this machine you'll soon be able to help others that are starting out on getting an old machine working, like you were not long ago. And no matter how long a person is in this hobby they can still learn more.
:snoopy4: Same with life, I am learning all of the time, and I'm old now, keeping the brain from turning into mush.