New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Gumbo on December 28, 2023, 06:48:55 PM
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Hello Please HELP. I have a IGT SPlus was working fine UNTIL i put the hopper back in with power on. Got a 3100/1 code. Cant clear it. Ive opened and closed the door multiple times, Checked fuses .checked connections , checked door optics, checked hopper for jams. Any help will be appreciated thanks
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Check the hopper optics to make sure something isn't blocking them.
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I gave it a good cleaning but same results. Thanks for the suggestion. Do you have any more ? Im really struggling with this. Seems like it should be easy BUUT.
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Try running the hopper test in the self test menu.
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Ok im unclear on how to do that. Can you give me a step by step
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Possibly. I'm not at my machine right now and don't do it often enough to have it memorized. Press the self test button until you see a 3 in the coins played display. Then press the spin button and the hopper should pay out 10 coins. If it doesn't work I'll get better directions tomorrow when I can do it on my machine.
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The technical meaning of a 3100 is that an extra coin has been paid.
When you do a pay out the machine applies power to the hopper and as each coin passes the optic it gets counted.
When the number of coins is paid out power is cut to the hopper - the hopper brake seizes the hopper wheel.
When the little spring goes on the hopper brake an extra coin or two is often paid out as the wheel keeps spinning and the machine goes to an error 3100 when extra coin(s) pass the optic.
If there are insufficient coins in the hopper to complete the pay out - the wheel continues to spin but after a few seconds of no coins passing through the hopper optics you get a 3300 error (basically a time out).
The most likely thing that has happened plugging the hopper in with the power on is that you blew your hopper optics.
Try the following:
With the power off - remove the hopper.
Turn the power on, press the white test button multiple times.
Close the door (hopper is still removed).
Is the error gone ??
You can insert a coin and take a test spin - just know the coin will just be bouncing around on the inside and you will want to collect that.
IF the error is gone. Turn the machine off, install the hopper, turn the machine on, Close the door, does the error return ?
If the error comes back you have likely blown your hopper optics.
If you read Ricks FAQs - on the main page bottom right - you can follow the detailed instructions there to get the Game and Reel chip numbers.
Post them back here and someone can pass you the PSR (Program Summary Report) which is the instructions on how to use the white test button to change settings and do various tests such as the one TILT described.
Do you have a Clear & Set Chip ?
Occasionally you get a error that can't be cleared (if you search NLG you will read about the dreaded 61 loop). A clear chip brings the machine back to factory. This should only be used as a last resort.
Once you have Cleared the Machine you will need to use the SET chip to re-enable the bill validator and SET its denomination.
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Thanks so much for all the information, I woke up feeling a bit down but as i sit here drinking my coffee and reading this . Well i must say my spirits have been lifted and i have high hopes my issue will be resolved. Thanks again. I will keep yall posted.
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There is nothing you can do to these machines that can’t be corrected.
They are absolute tanks.
IGT had to deprecate the bill validator (IGT stopped paying JCM for bill updates) to get these things out of the casino. The majority of the machines made their way overseas.
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Good morning Jay , I followed your above procedure. I have a couple questions . When pushing the button multiple times does it matter how many or what the screens outside have on them when you stop ? It clicked loud on the 3rd push. I clicked it a couple more times then closed the door. Dont remember nowhat was showing at that time but i dropped a nickle in and heard it hit the cabinet floor inside nothing change on the screens , dropped a couple more in and nothihing . Pushed the spin button and nothing. Turned off the power , Replaced the hopper and turned power back on. 3100 came back. Does this still mean its likely the optic ? And where might i find one ? Is there a way to temporarily bypass it to be sure thats what it is ? Thank you so much sir for your patience.
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Good morning
The purpose of hitting that self test button was just to ensure that the machine moved into a different mode. It didn’t really matter how many times you press the button just that you press it a couple of times. For the most part opening and closing the door Should have cleared this error.
When you had the hoppee out, did you hit the spin wheels or try and play ?
Was the 3100 error on the screen when the hopper was out?
Can you please post your game and Real chip numbers. The instructions to get these are in Rick‘s FAQ found on the main page of NLG.
I am more of a swap – tronics person. So I would debug this by using another hopper, etc. one of our other members can probably provide instructions on how to electronically bypass the optics.
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Could you try this hopper test with the hopper installed?
Open the door, and turn on the power switch.
Get ready to press the little white Test button with your right hand.
Now partly close the door with your left hand, so you can see the right-most [Coins Played] window on the display.
Press the Test button a number of times slowly, until you the number "3" pop up in that window.
Now press the Spin button, and watch the display.
The numbers on the display should count up to "10" as the coin hopper is spitting out quarters.
The hopper will stop when it pays out ten coins.
Some software chips work this hopper test a little differently.
If pressing the Spin button on the button deck doesn't start the hopper test, turn the Jackpot Reset key once, instead.
What you want to see is if the hopper stops when it counts out the tenth coin in the [Winner Paid] window.
If an extra coin passes thru the hopper optics, then you may have a problem with the hopper brakes.
The brake pawl may not be closing fast enough to stop the transmission axle because sometimes the brake spring has come off.
Because of this, an extra coin will get thru the hopper optics - giving you the [3100] code.
Slide out the hopper and inspect it from behind.
In the photo below, is how the spring should be attached from the motor to the brake pawl on the shaft.
Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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Thanks Ill try this
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Ok i tried the hopper test as suggested, pushed test button until i got 3 on the coins played , nothing happened , no up to 10 count . pushed spin and nothing. Spring is in place on the hopper and in can manually work it and spin hopper. Could it still be the optic ? Thanks for the effort guys . At this point im not ready to give up. I still need to get chip pictures as requested by Jay.
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When you get to the "3" in the [Coins Played] window with the Test button, you might instead, have to turn the Jackpot Reset key to activate the hopper test.
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That did indeed make it count up and spit out 10 coins. So does that put us back to the optic being blown? If so where does one find one ? I feel were making progress
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If it counts to 10 and stops that means your optics and hopper brake .
It also means that the MPU board that controls the hopper should also be fine.
Is your machine still showing the 3100 error?
If so, I think we’re gonna need to run a clear through the machine
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It does show the 3100 code. Now im nervous. Not sure i can do the clear and factory reset thing. But willing to try. You guys have been super helpful so far, all is appreciated.Will probably need your guidance through the procedure. Or very detailed instructions i can refer to. Thanks
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Do NOT try to use any Clear chips yet :talktothehand: ...you will only screw up things worse. :arrowthruhead:
Let's finish trouble-shooting your machine first Gumbo. :yes:
With the [3100] code showing on the display, try this...>>>
Watch the [Coins Played] window on your display when you close the door, and AS YOU push downwards fully on the door latch.
Does the number in the [Coins Played] window momentarily go out, and then come back on?
Why am I asking you this?
When you push down on the door latch to the bottom of the slot, what you see happening in the [Coins Played] window, will tell us if the door optics are either out of alignment or dead.
IF the cabinet receiver optic "sees" the door emitter infrared light beam, the [3100] error code will go away.
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Ok Im all for more troubleshooting. I turned the machine on, with door open , Display had 3100 flashing to 1 and back. didn'ts played had 0 and slow flashing blank and back to zero then back . So when it came on the zero i latched it. It didn't blink or any interruptions. Just continued the same rhythm of zero and blank and back. Could this mean door optic is not working?
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Move the door latch slowly up and down while watching the [Coins Played] display...tell us what you see.
Hopefully, it's just an alignment issue.
We could tell you how to align the door optics.
If you can't get anything to change in the [Coins Played] window on the display at all, I will have to say you need to then try checking the door emitter optic by viewing it with a digital camera while the when the machine's power switch is ON, and the door opened.
You should be able to see with camera, a blue-ish or purple-ish light coming out of the emitter.
Let us know if you see anything?
Are you able to post pictures?
Can you turn the power OFF, slide out the MPU, and take a picture of the software chips?
Jay politely asked you what chips you had in Reply #6....I was wondering if you were ever going to answer him.... :fryingpan: :lol:
Below are a couple of pictures of the door emitter optic for you.
Click on any photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
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My apologies, Im seeing replies on my phone that im not seeing on my laptop. Ive tried to attach photo of my chips {says file to large} Chip numbers are SP1048 and SS4662. Ive tried the door procedure as instructed by Bunker with no results. still need to try the camera thing.
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My Phone camera shows a flashing purple light in the door latch side but the optic in the cabinet side is not doing anything. So im guessing its bad. But ill wait for your instructions on the next move. This has been an interesting ride and i do appreciate everyone's input.
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The cabinet receiver optic does NOT emit light rather, it's made to receive infrared light.
That's why you cannot see anything on its lens.
I do not know if you are capable or not of testing this cabinet reciever optic...one needs a multimeter to read ohms.
To test the door receiver optic, you have to unplug its 2-pin Molex connector from the harness that runs back to the MPU.
Now you put the probes of the multimeter into the two male pins inside the Molex housing of the cabinet reciever.
The multimeter will respond in ohms, as you shine a flashlight across a good recever optic.
Of course, if the multimeter doesn't respond, it's dead.
Now, there's a test that you can do to test the door optics, but since you didn't get a response from the door optics while looking at the [Coins Played] window on the display, and raising/lowering the door latch in attempt to line them up to each other, I would have to say that because you see infrared light with a camera coming out of the door emitter, the cabinet receiver is dead.
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When you take a photo with your phone email it to yourself - you will be given an option to reduce the size of the file.
Then post the reduced sized photo.
Just a quick running tally:
You have proven your hopper and hopper optics are good.
The Self Test you ran tells us the logic on the MPU board drives the hopper just fine so we believe at this point your MPU is good.
What is not working is that when you close your door the LED screens are not changing, this leads us to believe that your door optics or at least the receiver is blown. They are very sensitive so may have been damaged when you inserted your hopper with the power on.
What StayOutofTheBunker didn't mention is that you could also extend your receiver optics and put it directly against the emitter as a test.This basically ensures that the door alignment is not at issue.
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Itested the one in the cabinet with ohm meter and flashlight , i did in fact get a reading. then i extended it out of its bracket to the door and placed it in front perfectly, nothing happened. So then i had seen where you can run a test by going to 10/1 then turn the set key untill it says 13/0 then close the door and it should flash 13/0 13/1 and back and forth if working. It did not, it simply stayed on 13/0 I feel were making progress. I will work on reducing pics.
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You would simulate the door opening and closing by removing your coupled optics and then putting them back together again.
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Yes sir thats what i did
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Hmm...those are very thin wires going into the end of the TO-46 metal can package of the optic.
You could very easily break one of the wires taking a receiver optic can out of the cabinet holder.
Extremely delicate stuff.
It would be better to remove the two Philips screws that hold the black plastic holder on the cabinet bracket.
I'd test it with the flashlight again....to see if it stills gives a response.
It's a hard test to do because you have to hold the multimeter probes onto the two pins, and then a hand to move the flashlight back and forth across the receiver.
Not enough hands.
I'm lucky because I use a spare female Molex with two wires, to check receiver optics.
I use tiny, mini-hook leads on my multimeter to hold onto the pins and wires, instead of the pointy pen ones where you have to actually touch onto the pins.
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You have no idea of how hard I just got slapped when I asked my wife for a bit of help.
Perhaps it was me referring to her as a “ spare female Molex” you be careful !!! :rotfl:
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oh...the male Molex always gets it wrong....haha
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I will do further testing in the moring, Thanks guys Goodnight
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Update. After going back over our messages and testing each thing again. i determined that the door optic receiver was not working. So i did the only thing i could think of to confirm this. I made a jumper wire and it immediately cleared the 3100 code and works as normal. So i unpluged it and will be ordering a new receiver optic. I may not should have done it that way but i get impatient at times. I want to thank each and every guy that help me along the way . Could not have done it without yalls knowledge and guidance. This is an unbelievably helpful site. I dont have much money but i feel the need to donate because you guys really wre patient and helpful. Thanks to all involved.
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Glad you got the code cleared! :applause:
You can easily leave the jumper plugged in and play your machine - bypassing optics doesn't hurt anything. :cool_thumb_up:
The only time you really need to have real optics in there is for when one would need to use Clear chip to get out of the [61-1] Loop.
That rarely happens.
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Thats good to know, But i would like to keep the machine as original as possible. I have already ordered the replacement optic. Next on the list is to get all lamps working again. Now in this department Im not against upgrading to LEDs. Again im very grateful for the assistance I received at this site.