New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: EliteGeeks on December 06, 2018, 11:52:52 PM
-
I have not been a slot tech since 1993, only did it for a few years, I had Graduated from Las Vegas Gaming and Tech school in 1991, so I am a fast learner and a bit understanding of electronics and poker machines, but some terminology with IGT is not fresh enough in my mind to remember as that was over 25 years ago, I worked for Bally Gaming building machines for a year in 1992 and not really got into IGT, so here we go with my current issue. I am forced into a retirement myself so I need to watch my $, I have a 93 year old Grandma and she is not going to the casinos as much as she use to, to keep her entertained I was going to set up a poker machine for her to use for the next 6 months before she moves to Delaware... it sorta a XMAS gift, with funds short I figured I would grab a machine that needed just a little bit of work and let her play with it. I bought it off of eBay for $80 with Local Pickup, so a Good Deal. ( even better when I found $8.25 still in the machine in hidden spots )
So My issue is as follow.
1. I have a Battery ( 3.6v lithium ) Low on the screen and I have changed the battery and tried what I could to clear it with a few tips I saw, but nothing I have done has fixed it.
2. I am not 100% sure what model I have or the scale I can mod it but I think I have a IGT Player's Edge Plus PE+ "SUPERBOARD" MAINBOARD - P/N 75703407 Rev C 1196GTC
Would like to confirm via my pictures. I have a folder I uploaded called " My Project " I have uploaded to a Album on my Profile.
3. what is the term CG Set mean and CAP or CAPX ?
4. Since I believe I have a IGT Player's Edge Plus PE+ "SUPERBOARD" what is the best software I can upgrade it to, as I was wanting a Multi Game system but I assume I am somewhat restricted.
5. how is the volume adjusted since I cannot hear a think, I do have a speaker hardwired but no volume button/knob
6. Is there a Service Manual floating around? or a How To Manual?
7. Is there a schematic around with wire diagrams?
8. What is the blue POT on the edge of the board adjust?
Any other crash course input would help...
like best place to buy spare parts on the cheap?
I need a tower light ( ebay I guess ) real locks to replace the turnbuckles.
I am in Las Vegas ( Henderson )
- Jeremy :agreepost:
Here is a few pictures, a link to larger ones and more is on my site. small, med and large images http://www.elitegeeks.com/igt/ (http://www.elitegeeks.com/igt/)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fsmall%2FDSCF0693%2520%28Small%29.JPG&hash=22755814a8125aaebc6839b71006e3647d495ca4)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fsmall%2FDSCF0704%2520%28Small%29.JPG&hash=4e34bb553ac2a4227caa53fb47d192c27e28f063)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fsmall%2FDSCF0705%2520%28Small%29.JPG&hash=3a63766c7ca2a1701af4084dded6381667aa66af)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fsmall%2FDSCF0724%2520%28Small%29.JPG&hash=922bd964e051de66991102f3172014cf400583e2)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fsmall%2FDSCF0710%2520%28Small%29.JPG&hash=e5477af9a68dcedaf4ce52a0262b55d9fbfe116e)
-
Please keep in mind, I could spend weeks going this the old forum and this one and learn it all, but I have to do this before XMAS for this sweet little old lady :(
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2FIMG_20170830_095336.jpg&hash=a9a302f302e79bd0a9ff2d5be5ac80cc88859d47)
-
Trying to remember your post.
CG means "character generator" The colors displayed are split into 4 chips Red, Blue, Green and X. Those are combined to put images on the screen.
To get the game up after replacing the battery hold in the white test button until you hear a DING then close door (latch all of the way down) and turn jackpot reset key.
Sound is turned up and down by rotating the blue "wheel" (volume control) on the top edge of the MPU board, towards you is louder, away is softer.
-
As per your list:
1. You'll need to desolder the battery and replace it. If you're going to go through the efforts, get a good quality battery cradle and mount the PCB. See the picture for a decent one and an "el cheapo" Next time you just pop out the 1/2 AA battery and pop in a new in about 2 minutes. If you're getting a Battery Low message the battery is bad or you have an issue with a trace for the battery.
2. Your board is a "Superboard"
3. CG set is the 4 roms marked MR0, MG0, MB0 & MX0 - in your case CG2185 - (for R, G, B and X which is: Red, Green, Blue and Transparency?) are for graphics. The CAP / CAPX is the chip your board marked CAPX 1321. This is a color table the CPU on the board uses to draw the characters in. Use the wrong CAPX chip and you'll get the wrong colors. A "CAP" chip is only used on standard boards and the CAPX chips are only to be used on the "Superboard" as the CAP & CAPX are two different types of BPROM.
4. You are limited to a "wingboard", specific Multi Poker sets or individual games. See this posting for wingboard / multi poker set info: http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=10064.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=10064.0)
5 & 8. Volume is the little blue pot
6 & 7. Looks like you have many of them listed on your site
Any time you switch poker programs / sets or change the battery you have to configure the machine:
Start with the Door open:
1. Press the white service button (with MPU board in, it's white switch at the same level as PCB edge and on your left)
Press until you hear a tone - Then release
2. Close the door and secure the door latch all the way down
3. Turn the Jackpot Reset Key (on your machine it's the dangling key socket on the right with the wires)
4. Open the door
5. Press the service button and step through the set up menus.
When you have things the way you, close the door and start playing
BrianT
-
They made 5 game software that did not require a wing board.
When I get a PE+ super board into the shop with a wing board I toss the wing board in the trash and put in the 6 chip game chips.
-
Battery I replaced before I posted, just could not get the system past the battery warning, I then seem to have lost my screen, I power it up and everything is white, it is not the monitor. Since I posted this, today I got another IGT Machine, it had a Bad monitor and a coin validator that seems to not be working, but the software is a 6 game software and I assume superboard. I swapped in my monitor from the first system to get that one to post. I assume the backplane ( I think I/O Board ) is having issues on the first system, I was temped to play musical motherboards to double check, the manuals I have up on my site I found at 6am this morning roaming the interwebs, not gone thru them yet, I assume some will be helpful, not sure which one will show me the procedures yet that I need, I figured the chips were were able to be swapped without a wing board I think the newer system I have doesn't have a wing board, it is a newer model I think, I will post a picture of it later or tomorrow. Having one machine was hard to work with, 2 machines are much easier since the new one has what I want as far as software, while not a Game King, it is better than just 1 type of poker. I just need to figure out why the coin validator is not lit up. or figure out how to get it to add coins without it. Should be something I can take care if, I see a few frayed wires in the new system I need to address, I hope I dont get a short sorting thru it all, the Bad minitor needs the Pots replaced up top, then it should work too, Just need to locate them, if I can, I will post pics when I get a moment, got lucky on the 2nd machine, while not as cheap as the first for $80, it was only $125, so only into this for $205
-
can you post a pic of the MPU board with multi poker? I'd like to see which chipset you have.
BrianT
-
I need to figure out how to remove it, does not slide out like the old system from the top, it is on the lower left, issues I am having is Hold button 4 and 5 seem to work intermittently and the door shut indicator on test seems to flicker REALLY fast.
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2FIMG_20181207_193930.jpg&hash=2c68d6343547306d1351a8b09b332060a829d5fd)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2FIMG_20181207_193945.jpg&hash=4ede2dbfb85180013ab50b17d98fad1b12add105)
here is what is broken on the monitor
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2FIMG_20181207_193910.jpg&hash=b471f9bd2faa0b969bd4ee172e3875e8655105e0)
-
You can find those controller boards on EBay. Look under 1492 Ceronix controller. $9.99 plus shipping.
-
On the bottom under the monitor on the left side, grab the black handle lift up about 1/2 inch and then tilt back and it should come out.
-
There is a plug under the monitor on the front left side. Pull down on the plug and once it’s loose, you then can lift up on the front of the monitor assembly and it then side out towards you. I do repair the 1492 Ceronix chassis.
-
Monitor removal is not the hard part, that mobo seems to be stuck...
Seems one monitor is more dim or washed out than the other... not sure if rebuilding it is worth it, I guess I can get a CAP Rebuild kit and go over it but I dont think that will bring the blacks back, or the reds... seems oddly faded. I did need to lower/adjust the flyback to reduce lines in the monitor
Both have burn in, but the one with more burn in seems to look better, odd
-
Here is the second board I got, secret screw was holding it in
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2F2018-12-08.jpg&hash=c580fcf209e42b5d42828ba79fa3134fca58c097)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2F2018-12-08%2520%282%29.jpg&hash=72a8f5f7c07773365f9dcc5a4ab0994316644f2f)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2F2018-12-08%2520%281%29.jpg&hash=d52cb461b242fc5bcaecad4669ac8e8f49b238fa)
-
can I pop that board in to the other machine and test it? or will I need to jump thru a bunch of hoops?
-
Just a couple simple hoops, worth a try.
-
Just swap the Trays? or do I need to swap the back board too?
Also does anyone know a used parts vendor in Vegas? The ones I used back in the 90s are long gone lol
-
Just the trays, we are still selling used parts for the older machines in Las Vegas.
Have been doing it for over 10 years.
You should come to our shop some day and see what we have.
PM me for address and times.
-
I am scared of working on the thing now, seems the plastic is brittle, May need to get a set of Buttons... wonder will the LED version work in place of the incandescent? and I assume 26mm buttons?
-
When I get a PE+ super board into the shop with a wing board I toss the wing board in the trash and put in the 6 chip game chips.
I'd certainly be willing to pay a few $$ for your "trash" wingboards if you come across any in the future. :yes:
-
I'll see if I can find any that didn't hit the bin.
-
I'll see if I can find any that didn't hit the bin.
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :hail: :hail: :hail:
-
in the middle of taking apart everything, basically refurbishing it, removing surface rust, dirt and my biggest issue right now before I start dealing with posting and electrical is button and stuff, few of them buttons just crumbled. Up to 4 of them now... I saw a full set for $28 but only need a few, lol May need to end up getting the whole set since buying just one on ebay seems to be like $10
-
Before the scrub
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2FIMG_20181210_133148.jpg&hash=2698f53e0cf500e31406cb27364b92110bd0e4ac)
After the Scrub
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2FIMG_20181210_143736.jpg&hash=0a5ace3d54c8b892e88915277523c64fa290d3b3)
still lots of crud to go
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2FIMG_20181210_143722.jpg&hash=9ce32e332d4d66da46a52512f4a2c25ee7c32dd3)
-
tore these apart...
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2F4775803635177912525.jpg&hash=b28033196e0bbc898245fbf666fd765fa1d20cfb)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2F7621643151959268592.jpg&hash=c8344adbf1874ff747f09ede21b6034c6eddd370)
Can I assume they dont sell just these white parts lol
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2Fnew%2520machine%2F3738452325033465479.jpg&hash=1df7ad35a0df57b84eee928f10ce7f19a4f071f1)
-
We sell a medium size priority box of those size buttons and button parts for $20 on our website.
Soak and clean your button parts in Dawn soap, it strengthens and revitalizes the plastic, not just for oily ducks any more.
-
yea I remember that, used Soda water to clean off the sticky stuff first
I will see if I can find the site
-
www.slotmachinerepair.com (http://www.slotmachinerepair.com) see product under Specialty Items.
-
the small button box is $40 not $20, I will save the link and when I finish going thru the entire thing I will make a list...
-
Ya, the large switch button box is $20
-
i have a few buttons not working and it is not the switch or wire, and I am sure not the plug, could it be a bad board or the backboard the main board plugs into, also no power to the bulbs on the buttons, I swapped boards but still not figured out how to clear the low battery warning to get that to work, even tho I replaced the battery
-
found the pad lifted so I hope that is the battery issue
-
turned out to be a bad button...
So I have one issue, the harness plugs for the door are a little intermittent, have a way to clean the connector up? it I think has a coating of nicotine/tar
-
A spray can of Contact cleaner is good. With Radio Shack mostly extinct its not exactly a common item on store shelves unless you have an electronics store close by.
White rubber erasers do a good job on contacts to clean them up - albiet you may find that they are a tad big for some jobs. I have sliced them thin and superglued to an emery board to get into the little places.
For edge connectors Mr. Clean on a QTIP works wonders followed by a dry qtip to clean off the residue.
-
OMG I forgot I had that radio shack... stuff laying around, few good years old, but use to use it in my old Ham Radio days... thanks for the heads up reminder... I will give it a spray in all the connectors(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2F2018-12-18.jpg&hash=bb0ccff4b144897a1d65affa57779b7b08db3b62)
-
I was considering making a coin in button where the attendant button is and remove the switch in the cash out so my grandma wont hit it, any issues I should consider? Also, on the second machine I am seeing corrupted graphics, I will take some pictures when I work on it, can I just clear the CMOS and see if it will fix it? or is it maybe corrupted game IC roms, lucky it is not the multi game system with the issues... it is the system I had the Battery issue with so I am hoping that is why... and can just be reset, I dont have a Field manual, for some reason every site feels the need to get paid for them to know the reset procedure.
Oh was able with 2 coupons get 20 buttons ordered for $20 new off Aliexpress and I asked for the 5 volt LEDs and not the 12v LEDs I hope I didn't goof there but I was sure it was 6v bulbs
-
If your see corrupt graphics you might want to try cleaning the legs on the socketed IC’s on that board. If that doesn’t fix the problem, then I would try cleaning the edge connector if the MPU, or lastly reflow the solder joints on the socketed IC’s.
-
got a issue, while Machine #1 is still not working my #2 is almost up and going 100%
I wanted to test parts on PC 1 one at a time to see what is broken, now The Very first part I got to was a CC...
Here is a PIC of both, the one on the right works and the one on the left does not, not sure if it is because both are correct and one is bad, or it is both machines use a different voltage or
if someone swapped or replaced the 13v version with a 24v or vice versa...
Did IGT have PE+ Machines with 24v? I am fairly sure the 24V is what is bad with the Red LED, but not sure
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elitegeeks.com%2Figt%2F2940936048747524275.jpg&hash=2705caece3a2b2e625a13a5fa303538b13cc7ced)
-
Never mind, I guess they are both 24v according to a pic I found... still leaves the question why 1 works and one does not since this was not why the Machine ( according to the former owner ) working...
any test diagrams for me to look at for this?
-
It’s possible that the large grey capacitor is bad on the left board. They both are the 24V style comparitor. You can tell by the great wires going to the rake coil on the back. The 13V ones have green wires.
-
Problems deepen with the CC... so I Swapped the boards and then Left one, that did not work as soon as I use the Diverter and Sensor it would start to chatter as soon as I plugged it in, and int one on the right would not work when I used the sensors from the old one, so IF I can fix the Board on the Left ( Red LED, I still need a sensor and a Diverter coil.
at this point not sure if it is worth working on or replacing
-
I was considering making a coin in button where the attendant button is and remove the switch in the cash out so my grandma wont hit it, any issues I should consider?
I'm not sure what you mean by a "coin-in button" -- are you implying a button that would fool the machine into thinking that a coin has been inserted? The machine accepts coins via the coin-in optics, a series of three optics that have to see a coin pass through them in the correct order and with the correct timing of a falling coin in order to post a credit on the machine. You would need a circuit that could simulate that if you were to try and fool the machine into thinking a coin has been added by pressing a button.
For the cash out button, a consideration is that all of the buttons on a PE+ are wired in series. If you disconnect the wiring to a button, any buttons after that one in the series will stop working. I don't know off hand where the cash out button is in the series (if it's the very last one, then you can disconnect the wires -- if there are any buttons after it in the series, though, then you can't). Best bet to eliminate errant cash outs is to physically remove the cherry switch from the underside of the button (but keep the wires connected to the cherry switch), so that when a player presses the button it isn't actually hitting anything inside the machine.
-
yea I only planned to remove the cherry switch, and I figured out the 3 Optics part already, and decided on another route. Just made the Hopper size 9999 and will do the Hopper hack on the wheel to fake the coins and make a ramp to divert the coins back thru the door into the tray, just need to convert to 5 cent...
still need to figure out the issue with the second CC16...
Going to buy a capacitor tomorrow and see if the board starts within, but I still think I have a dead diverter coil and maybe a sensor, I will find out tomorrow
-
well I replaced the caps in both ( just in case )and the CC16 is still bad, the board works now, but the sensor that holds the coin is bad. the diverter coil is ok...
:(
-
Did you take the sensor apart and clean inside it. There is a hole inside that I have found full of dirt and lint. Not sure if it will help, but it’s worth a try.
-
yea, I even resoldered the wires that were questionable, then the Ohms meter told me it was no good.