New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT I-Game and Game King => Topic started by: otguy87 on September 15, 2020, 04:13:41 PM
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Hi all. I recently purchased an IGT Hoot Loot slot machine today. Took it home and it worked fine. Then, the PC nerd inside me wanted to look at the guts of it, and I very stupidly pulled out the motherboard while it was on.
And then, I get this meter disconnected error. Slot Machines LTD and Google led me to this website for help.
Slot Machines LTD said something about needing a keychip/reprogramming/back up to fix it? Or do I need to buy a replacement motherboard?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I hate that I broke this on day one of owning :(
Here is a picture of the error message and the motherboard. This website wouldn't let me upload it as the pictures are too large:
https://imgur.com/a/yHuGCcV
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:NLG_WELCOME:
That's not the motherboard. It's the main board or MPU. It's likely not bad. Pull out the cabinet I/O & inspect it. You may or may not see an obvious problem. Turn the power off first! I can supply a key chip if needed. PM me if interested.
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You could also just jumper the meter connector, if your fried your meter board, that is the easy fix. The meter pinout is the same across all i960 based IGT cabinet.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=327.msg920#msg920 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=327.msg920#msg920)
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Oh, well today I learned. I was wondering what MPU meant when I saw other threads on here.
I will pull it out now and probably PM you in 10 minutes when I have no idea what I am looking at lol
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You could also just jumper the meter connector, if your fried your meter board, that is the easy fix. The meter pinout is the same across all i960 based IGT cabinet.
[url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=327.msg920#msg920[/url] ([url]http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=327.msg920#msg920[/url])
I actually did try doing that, but with a small paper clip as I have no spare wire laying around, but it did not fix the issue :(
I did not see that thread in my research, so thanks, I will still bookmark it
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Then you probably fried your I/O board. Pull it out and look for burn marks, etc. The I/O board is located in the main cabinet area and looks like this. Anytime you want to go exploring in your machine, always do so with the power off, these machines DO NOT do well with hot plugging. There's also another I/O board that takes care of buttons that is next to it, this I/O board does not affect the meters, you need to look at the one pictured with the "shorter" plug on it as pictured. Should be on the left side just below the power button.
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Then you probably fried your I/O board. Pull it out and look for burn marks, etc. The I/O board is located in the main cabinet area and looks like this. Anytime you want to go exploring in your machine, always do so with the power off, these machines DO NOT do well with hot plugging.
Thanks Rick, this is what it looks like:
https://imgur.com/a/KYVydJ8
I do not see anything that looks burnt.
And yeah, I am so dumb for doing that. I build PCs all the time and should know better. I just got so excited to have a a slot for the first time so I wanted to explore :(
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That's the one for the buttons, there should be another one. You may need to remove the board from the caddy to look at both sides of the board.
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That's the one for the buttons, there should be another one. You may need to remove the board from the caddy to look at both sides of the board.
Oh oops, sorry.
Do you mean this board? If so, it seems hard to get to
https://i.imgur.com/Hved1BC.jpg
Or do you mean the MPU?
Sorry, still learning the language of these machines.
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I posted a photo up two posts. There should have been two I/O boards next to each other, one has a wide connector (the one on your photo) the other one has a narrow connector.
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I posted a photo up two posts. There should have been two I/O boards next to each other, one has a wide connector (the one on your photo) the other one has a narrow connector.
Yup, I was just about to post these pictures. I somehow missed that picture. Sorry!
I did see these two other I/O boards in the main cab. Since you said the shorter one, here it is, and it looks fine to me?
https://imgur.com/a/dfV7cDZ
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You can't tell anything under the shield. I usually do the smell test. Burnt semiconductor smell is easy to detect.
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You can't tell anything under the shield. I usually do the smell test. Burnt semiconductor smell is easy to detect.
There are two pictures of it from when I took it outside the shield, are they not popping up?
If not, here they are:
https://i.imgur.com/T0vRKAw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hzuAbyd.jpg
Nothing seemed to smell burnt.
Do you have a website you recommend to buy a replacement though? I think I will just buy a replacement for this one if the KEY 40 I buy off of user RB does not fix the issue.
And again, thanks a lot for the help. I do greatly appreciate it.
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If you post a WTB on the site one of our sponsors will probably offer you a good one for a reasonable price.
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i am thinking need to check for bent pins on the mpu and beyond that trying a new backplane(mobo).
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If you post a WTB on the site one of our sponsors will probably offer you a good one for a reasonable price.
Thanks, I think I found a seller :)
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i am thinking need to check for bent pins on the mpu and beyond that trying a new backplane(mobo).
Is the backplane/mobo attached to the MPU?
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it's the board in the back of the machine that the MPU plugs into.
i am thinking need to check for bent pins on the mpu and beyond that trying a new backplane(mobo).
Is the backplane/mobo attached to the MPU?
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it's the board in the back of the machine that the MPU plugs into.
i am thinking need to check for bent pins on the mpu and beyond that trying a new backplane(mobo).
Is the backplane/mobo attached to the MPU?
Oh yikes. I will have to shine the flashlight and look at it more.
Would you happen to know the part number for that so I can look at prices?
edit - Nevermind, easier to see than I thought it would be.
So I think I will try the keychip 44 that I am buying off here, then I will try replacing the I/O boards. If that fails, I will try what you suggested.
I did look for bent pins and any burnt marks, etc. Did not see any.
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there are a couple of different mobos for the 3902 mpu that you have.
grabbing 2 that i had here they have part numbers of:
pn: 75905300 rev b
pn: 75905701 rev a
there are probably a few more variations
check the side of your MPU that plugs into the mobo and see if any of the pins got bent, that's the easiest and cheapest fix(if its the problem)
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Reseat the mpu. If it is not slid in all the way into backplane you will get that error. A bent pin on mpu where it plugs/slides into backplane can also cause it.
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Might have blew a surface mount chip on the MPU. I don't remember the chip position. Can you see or smell burnt on the MPU?
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there are a couple of different mobos for the 3902 mpu that you have.
grabbing 2 that i had here they have part numbers of:
pn: 75905300 rev b
pn: 75905701 rev a
there are probably a few more variations
check the side of your MPU that plugs into the mobo and see if any of the pins got bent, that's the easiest and cheapest fix(if its the problem)
Thanks, found it! It is 75905701 rev a.
I will probably buy a backup just in case now. Thanks!
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Reseat the mpu. If it is not slid in all the way into backplane you will get that error. A bent pin on mpu where it plugs/slides into backplane can also cause it.
I have taken it out and back in many times now :( Give it a nice tug too, but no avail.
I do not see any bent pins either. I will double check though.
I do appreciate the help though! Any advice/suggestions are appreciated
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Might have blew a surface mount chip on the MPU. I don't remember the chip position. Can you see or smell burnt on the MPU?
I did not smell any burning after the error message. After that message I did take it out again to inspect (with it off this time), but nothing.
When you say mounted chip, do you mean the parts that have like 20 "legs" on them?
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A surface mounted chip is just that. Soldered with the legs on top of the board. The other type of chip have legs that go through the board and are soldered under the board.
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A surface mounted chip is just that. Soldered with the legs on top of the board. The other type of chip have legs that go through the board and are soldered under the board.
Oh, they're soldered? Isn't this where the Flash Chip Key 40 thing goes though?
https://i.imgur.com/d5x9t5I.jpg
Since nothing has worked so far that I could do on my own (checking for bent pins, reseating the MPU), I am trying a Key 40 once it comes in the mail. Then if that doesn't work, try replacing the IO boards as someone else suggested.
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That chip is on a socket, thus removable. The socket is soldered to the board, and then the chip goes in the socket. It is also no a flash chip, it is an eprom.
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That chip is on a socket, thus removable. The socket is soldered to the board, and then the chip goes in the socket. It is also no a flash chip, it is an eprom.
So much to learn on these. Thanks for the info!
I am hoping it is nothing on the MPU though. That seems like more of a tough fix than simply using the Key 22/40 or replacing the IO boards
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My bet is that you blew U74 on the MPU board. It's not unusual for it to go if you pull or plug in the MPU board without turning off the power first. Normally you'll get Coin in Jam error along with the meters disconnected error that will not clear, but not always. Sometimes you can see physical damage to the IC (discoloration or a bubble on the top of it), other times not. If you want to look at it for damage you'll have to remove your sound card that sits on top of the MPU board.
A bad I/O card can cause the same error messages, but you didn't remove them with the power on so it's not likely. You needed a key for your machine anyhow, so it's not a waste of money getting one, but don't be surprised when it doesn't fix your problem. I/O cards are pretty rugged, but can fail. I'd buy a new MPU board before buying I/O cards though.
Good luck!
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My bet is that you blew U74 on the MPU board. It's not unusual for it to go if you pull or plug in the MPU board without turning off the power first. Normally you'll get Coin in Jam error along with the meters disconnected error that will not clear, but not always. Sometimes you can see physical damage to the IC (discoloration or a bubble on the top of it), other times not. If you want to look at it for damage you'll have to remove your sound card that sits on top of the MPU board.
A bad I/O card can cause the same error messages, but you didn't remove them with the power on so it's not likely. You needed a key for your machine anyhow, so it's not a waste of money getting one, but don't be surprised when it doesn't fix you problem. I/O cards are pretty rugged, but can fail. I'd buy a new MPU board before buying I/O cards though.
Good luck!
Oh dang, well, I guess I will find out eventually.
But I am enjoying that I am learning so much on these machines through you guys, so again, thanks a lot for the input.
So what is the U74? I don't see it:
https://i.imgur.com/MTEq8cT.jpg
So, just to clarify, this entire board is the MPU? And the small top part I took off is the sound card?
And I can just buy any MPU as long as it is the same part number 75703902 REV A?
Sorry for 50 Qs. Trying to learn as much as possible.
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I circled U74 in red on the MPU board, and then made another circle inside it where it looks like it may be damaged? Can't tell for sure in the photo.
Yes, the entire board is known as the MPU board and the daughter board that plugged on to it is the MML2 (Multimedia Lite 2) board (AKA Sound card).
No problem, ask away, that's how ya learn.
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I circled U74 in red on the MPU board, and then made another circle inside it where it looks like it may be damaged? Can't tell for sure in the photo.
Yes, the entire board is known as the MPU board and the daughter board that plugged on to it is the MML2 (Multimedia Lite 2) board (AKA Sound card).
No problem, ask away, that's how ya learn.
Well son of a gun, I think you are right. It does have a raised bump to it, and what looks like possible burnt marks near the bump. It is hard to get a really good picture of it, but since it does have a bump and nothing else does, I assume it did "blow up".
https://i.imgur.com/tS1azw4.jpg (https://i.imgur.com/tS1azw4.jpg)
I even had my girlfriend look for U74 because I couldn't find it. Either could she lol.
But dang, I was hoping it would be an easy fix. I don't mind having backups so I am not mad I purchased the IO boards plus the Key 40.
However, I cannot seem to find this board anywhere to buy! It seems like they are all Revision Bs, and I need to stick with Revision A, correct?
Actually, the only boards I can find are these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/L-K-Slot-Machine-IGT-Game-King-Video-Controller-MPU-Board-75703902-L-K/284007460967?hash=item422029f067:g:imUAAOSwz2pfWoLh (https://www.ebay.com/itm/L-K-Slot-Machine-IGT-Game-King-Video-Controller-MPU-Board-75703902-L-K/284007460967?hash=item422029f067:g:imUAAOSwz2pfWoLh)
Which is REV B, and this, which doesn't even state which REV it is:
https://get-t.net/product/igt-gameking-cpu-board-igt-part-75703902-gett-part-cpu135/ (https://get-t.net/product/igt-gameking-cpu-board-igt-part-75703902-gett-part-cpu135/)
Ugh
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No problem, ask away, that's how ya learn.
And not to get too off topic, but where is the game stored? Is it the chips that have the red stickers on my MPU?
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Spare parts are always a good thing with these machines. Makes it easier to troubleshoot future problems.
Yep, it's toast. If you have the skills/equipment to remove and replace surface mount components that would be the cheapest way to fix it. Most people don't, so it's easier and cheaper just to replace the MPU. Rev A/B doesn't matter, any 3902 board will work (that number is derived from the last 4 digits of the MPU part number).
G2Gliquidators is a member here, but they're liquidating parts from casinos and I'm sure it is all "as is" not tested. You could check with him to be sure. I think it would be a roll of the dice. Might get it cheap, but it might not work. You'd be better off getting one from a vendor here, they'll take care of you if you have any problems.
Yes, you'll have to remove your base chip, GME chips (all eproms) and then SIMM cards from the old board to the new one. The horizontal one under the MML2 board is the CGF simm, it has to go in the same place on the new board. The vertical SIMMs are PXL cards and can go in any of the three slots. Best to keep them in order if you have multiple ones, just for organization sakes.
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Spare parts are always a good thing with these machines. Makes it easier to troubleshoot future problems.
Yep, it's toast. If you have the skills/equipment to remove and replace surface mount components that would be the cheapest way to fix it. Most people don't, so it's easier and cheaper just to replace the MPU. Rev A/B doesn't matter, any 3902 board will work (that number is derived from the last 4 digits of the MPU part number).
G2Gliquidators is a member here, but they're liquidating parts from casinos and I'm sure it is all "as is" not tested. You could check with him to be sure. I think it would be a roll of the dice. Might get it cheap, but it might not work. You'd be better off getting one from a vendor here, they'll take care of you if you have any problems.
Yes, you'll have to remove your base chip, GME chips (all eproms) and then SIMM cards from the old board to the new one. The horizontal one under the MML2 board is the CGF simm, it has to go in the same place on the new board. The vertical SIMMs are PXL cards and can go in any of the three slots. Best to keep them in order if you have multiple ones, just for organization sakes.
I agree. I like the insurance of having spare parts in case anything goes wrong one day. Plus, this is now probably my new expensive hobby. I just want to buy more older machines.
I actually had a vendor PM me so I have one coming :) Also PMd another vendor for purchasing a backup or two, because I do plan to get more of these old IGT machines.
You have been really helpful in teaching about these things, so I appreciate it.
It's late and man, those abbreviations for the chips hurt my brain. I will look at them all tomorrow lol.
Do I need special tools to remove any of these? Or will just a small plastic flat head tool to pop them out work?
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A small screwdriver will work to remove the ICs from the socket, but it's not the right tool to use with any frequency. Be careful because what usually happens is you'll pry up one end of the IC and bend the legs on the other end. That's OK, until you go to straighten out the legs to re-install it on the new board and they break off because you weren't the first one to bend them one direction (weakening them) and then the other and they break off. It shouldn't happen if you're careful removing it equally one each end, which isn't easy with the MPU board mounted in the tray. Just take it slow and be careful removing them and you shouldn't have any problems.
Be just as careful re-installing them into the new board that you don't bend any pins over.