New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: mrcrazy on June 02, 2022, 04:32:23 PM
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Well, I have moved on to some drop in bartop IGT video poker machines. These are from the 80-90s I believe. On all of them the large lower flat metal door is missing. Validator door is bypassed already & both door optics were tested in another machine & are good. The lower door seems to have a sensor, its a small black plastic square with what looks like 2 very small optos in it & mounted to the side of the cabinet inside. there are 4 wires coming off it, I tried shining a light in them, blocking them but no matter what I do it says "door Open" so I cant reset the game. Is there a way I can twist any or all of those 4 wires to make it think the door is closed? I should of snapped a pic & if necessary I will tomorrow and attach.
thanks for any help or advice you can give,
Greg
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Door optics typically use a pulse modulation to specifically thwart being blinded by light pens.
In the upright models people used to shine a light up the hopper chute to blind the hopper optic - this allowed the hopper to keep spitting out extra coins since it couldn't count them. They "fixed" this by adding a u-shaped plastic housing to the optic and lowering the time out so you get a hopper empty error sooner.
Now back to your question door are not made to be bypassed by shorting wires but you can strap the emitter and receiver together with a piece of electrical tape and tuck it into the back of your cabinet. With that said there are ways to bypass the door optics but its more complex than just the shorting of wires.
As to the specifics of your lower door - pictures please - the Slant tops had plunger switches for their large doors. A bar top is pretty much the same beast as the slant except its in a slightly different form factor.
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Thank you for the reply Jay but its NOT... this is a single optic with TWO small optics in it & from what I have read the lower door has some sort of reflective tape that marks the door as closed. I have plenty of experience in the uprights & slant tops but this is my first crack at bartop ones. i read some old posts on newlifegames.net that someone said there was 2 wires that would bypass but the didnt say WHAT 2 wires!! there are 4 at the connector.
Greg
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Here are the pics of the opto im talking about. Again from what im told it can be bypassed & normally when the door IS there, there is some reflective material that tells the game the door is closed. One opto has black/yellow wires the other has black/red. Anyone know which wires I connect to bypass this as my door is long gone. Maybe I should try some foil?
thanks,
Greg
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Well, first thing I would do is see if they re any good.
Shine a flashlight at the optics in your hand and see if the flashlight triggers the optics (phototransistors).
You'll know if the "Coins Played" display changes.
In the photo below, if you were to remove the black electrical tape, you could determine which two wires to connect together to bypass your pair of optics....I highlighted them with some yellow arrows.
If you can try to see which two wires are connected to ONE optic, you'll know which other two wires are for the other one.
The tape is covering the wiring configuration.
At the main black connector from top-to-bottom, I see Brown, Green, Purple, and Blue.
The Brown & Green wires have grey stripes.
The Purple and Blue have black stripes.
This means the grey stripes are the "hot" wires, while the black stripes are the ground wires.
Each optic will have one grey wire and one black wire for sure.
Measuring voltage with a multimeter between any "hot" grey striped wire, and to cabinet metal will tell you the voltage going thru it.
Any striped wire should show 5 to 10 volts DC on your meter I believe.
I don't have a manual in front of me at the moment but I always thought on door optics it was 5VDC, while the cabinet side was 8-10VDC.
Yours has both optics (emitter and receiver) in one housing.
The multimeter will also tell you if the voltage is "steady" or "pulsing".
If it's a "pulsing" voltage going thru it, then I don't think connecting the two hot wires together and connecting the two ground wires together will make a bypass...it will burn out something instead.
That's why Jay said it's a little more complicated to bypass a "pulsing" voltage, instead, find a prism/reflector that allows the two optics to "see" each
other or take that housing apart and FACE the two optics AT each other physically.
Good luck! :)
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There is a simple fix for this.
Take the 4 wire harness the optics plugs into.
Cut the first 2 wires off of the plug, strip, and wire nut together.
Repeat on the next 2 wires.
Toss the optics.
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I just looked at my bartop machines and discovered what I discovered 10 years ago in the archive site thread you found -- neither of mine use a bypass. One of the reflectors appears to be authentic, white reflective material like you'd see on the side of a semi truck (but without the red). The other one appears to be using reflective aluminum tape like you'd use for HVAC ducts (not "duct tape", but the actual good foil tape you'd use on a duct), and that was good enough for that machine to work.
In digging through the archive site, I did find this post (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=21142.msg171208#msg171208) where user crgadyk said he was successful in bypassing the belly door optic by unplugging it, and using a wire between pins 1 and 3 on the harness, and then a second wire between pins 2 and 4. It was obviously a decade or more ago, but I remember the belly door optic bypass could be accomplished with just one wire, so only half of that solution is necessary (and you can experiment to determine which half).
I have attached an image to demonstrate what he said. Unplug the optics from that harness, then use a small wire to jump pin 1 to 3, and another wire to jump pin 2 to 4.
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THANKS!!!! This is what I was looking for!!! I will try it tomorrow & let you know!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Greg
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Ya, jumper 1 to 2 and 3 to 4 does the same thing.
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I wanted to verify for others in the future the fix was jumper 1-2 and 3-4. I had a hell of a time with this one, the white button was not working either. I had to remove the whole power supply (not easy on a bartop) and cleaned connectors as well as removed the motherboard and found a rotted trace. So much gunk on everything it’s amazing these games didn’t short out with all the crap spilled down in them. I now have it reset and will burn a set of eprom for multi-poker tonight and get a hopper installed (ugh, those long necks are a nightmare). Thanks everyone for your help, I really love this forum.
Greg
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Good job, and thank you for posting your findings.