bally vegas

[mark the spark]

a question for wolftalk
purchased a bally vegas 1032 assembled in dublin
it has some problems but the main concern is it has a random hold feature.now the random hold is a motor mounted on a printed circuit board.
the board looks like a genuine bally board the part number is M642.335 the fault is that it rotates non stop at the moment and i suspect its been like that for a long time as the wiper fingers have worn a grove in the board so i would like to replace this board when i have found the reason for it rotating all the time 

[wolftalk]

I don't have any information on the 1032 ... or 1032-1, 1035, 1053, 1056, 1057 ... which were all machines made for the UK market.

if the 1032 in the upright/console cabinet?

got some pictures?

if you can't find a replacement board, it may be possible to adapt a different board - like a payout counter - to work.  Repairing the board with copper trace or conductive epoxy is also an option.

[mark the spark]

hi i do have a photo but its to large
 

[wolftalk]

please email pics to slotpics@cdyn.com.  I'll downsize them and add them to the thread ... and post them on the bingo.cdyn.com/slots/ website in their original highest possible size form.

pics of the entire front of machine plus as many internal shots as you have patience for is always useful.  Since the pics are high res, don't move in too close with the camera ... it is better to have the wiring attached to stuff visible and other nearby components in the shot.  That helps people with the "where is the [whatever] thing in my machine". 

e.g. take a pic of the entire left side of the reel mech ... no need to take a pic of just the coin relay as it's easy to pan/zoom in a high res picture to just see that if needed.

[wolftalk]

the disc is m-645-335.

if the worst you have is a few spots where the copper has worn thru, probably the easiest fix is to use copper "foil" tape to bridge the gaps.  If you get wide tape, you can cut an arc shape to cover a longer length.  The self-adhesive foil may need to be soldered at the ends to electrically connect it to the existing traces.

you'd need to remove the wipers and take a picture of the entire board to see if a different board could be modified to make it work.

the crazy solution is to make another board.  You can measure the board thickness ... and guess at how thick the copper is ... then learn how to use pcb layout tools and use one of the many companies that will make 1 board for pretty reasonable price.

I've never done it and it would be a lot of learning.

[mark the spark]

thanks will take some further photos as there is a small motor mountred on the back of it which is of .  part the randomiser circuit this was fed through a n/c contact which is why it was running permanatley.Have changed this to a n/o contact for now on the same relay they are using omron squared based relays the 4 n/c or 4 n/o contacts.
they use 2 relays a draw relay and a random hold relay the random hold relay is for holds after wins i think
ohh not forgetting the cut wires which i need to find out what they are doing and why they were cut

[wolftalk]

the 979 "lucky wheels" had a couple random units.  Once the anti-cheat relay was powered on the first cycle after power-on, random #2 ran continuously unless the coin relay was tripped.

I guess the idea was the randomization was when the coin was dropped wrt the position of the random wipers.

a schem has a user markup of feeding the motor power from a control relay switch instead so the random motors only ran when the flash motor ran.

for home use when the game is only on during play, it doesn't matter much.  When the game is on 24x7, then yeah, the wiper contacts will wear down and the traces/board will eventually grind away.

typically hold was not available after a win, but I don't know the rules for your game ... or the 979.