New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => IGT PE and PE Plus Poker Games => Topic started by: Trooper11040 on April 20, 2018, 06:07:24 PM
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So I know I had another post, but figured this is an entirely different issue and worthy of a new post. So I got all the components installed on my game...got the comparator up and running...(i think) but all my coin optics still read 0 and the coin out reads 0. I have an extra coin optic that also wont work...the chance that both of them are not working I find kind of hard to believe. I've enclosed some photos of my inside of my machine...something tells me that something is missing or somehow the optics were turned off...not really sure but im ready to pull my hair out over this lol
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1937_zpswsbyn6xy.jpg&hash=241e26f100fd03793d67b2cb4862c049a3b7b0d2) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1937_zpswsbyn6xy.jpg.html)
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Can you pull out your mpu board and post a good photo of it, showing the entire board? Also, have you examined the motherboard (the smaller board mounted on the bottom floor of the machine? Look for any water damage, loose connections on the connectors that plug into the motherboard. Do all of your player pushbuttons light, indicating the power supply for that circuit is working? Are there any fuses in the machine, if so check that the fuse cap fits snugly onto the top of the fuse.
It is always good to thoroughly inspect a machine that is new to you. No telling what might be present until you look.
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All lights work, fuses all look good and have continuity on each one when using my meter. Pics to follow in a second. Just need to upload them
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With the door closed does the machine look like it is ready to accept a coin? If you insert a coin does it get rejected back to front coin tray, or does it go to hopper?
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Gets rejected. Only way I can get it to go into the hopper is in test mode and turning the jackpot key on the coin lockout setting...my display says call attendant, coin in timeout
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ok so I inspected all the boards...they look ok...ive enclosed photos...i also found during my inspection a yellow wire not attached to anything and a red/black set of wires not attached to anything...if you click on the photos, they are much bigger...the photo with the cluster of wires, if you look close you can see a yellow wire hanging out doing nothing
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1942_zpscrrdzepg.jpg&hash=01059ce07554550891a63df4547ded1fb24d087a) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1942_zpscrrdzepg.jpg.html)
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(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1939_zpsofvn4spb.jpg&hash=5011b7abad0e81bdea9b9020a3ae62b991845584) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1939_zpsofvn4spb.jpg.html)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1941_zpskivstuvq.jpg&hash=36fde05d73271155e10a0c0a1e8f2da673c160d6) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1941_zpskivstuvq.jpg.html)
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Are all of your dipswitches on the mpu board in the OFF position?
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According to the self test, on this board all of them are unused except the first one which is 60hz or 50hz. This machine is on 50hz
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According to the self test, on this board all of them are unused except the first one which is 60hz or 50hz. This machine is on 50hz
I think you need to change that to 60hz, you are in USA right? The wall outlet has 120volts AC at 60hz electrical power.
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My mistake. It’s on 60
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I’m in Pennsylvania
ok - they use 60hz electrical power there, right? :Scratch-Head:
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My mistake. It’s on 60
ok, all is good on your line freq selection.
I don't know about those wires that are not connected. The red & black pair look like heavier wire, and those colors are typically used for some kind of power connection. Can you tell where the unconnected red & black wires go to on their other end?
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They don’t appear to go anywhere. I just swapped out the coin hopper optic as well and still nothing. This is def frustrating
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Check the white connectors (called Molex connectors) that plug into the two motherboard connectors I've circled in your photo below. Look at the mating connector (connector with wires attached) to see if there are any darkened or brown discoloration on the white connector housings. This would indicate a poor connection on a power supply pin that is getting overheated.
Sometimes we have people that can only login overnight for a few hours, so some problem discussion threads need patience for all possible ideas to get suggested.
If things like this were easy then women would take over the world, that's why they need us. :garfield:
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I don't know what those loose wires are for but I'd wrap their ends individually in black electricians tape for now, just to keep them from touching the bare metal chassis ground. That's the safe thing to do. All 3 of those loose wires look like they have a connector contact crimped to it, like it was removed from a connector. It's not unusual to find unused wires in a machine, sometimes they are there for optional casino equipment, like a progressive jackpot or security equip or player's card tracking equip. But these don't look like that to me.
Do the red and black pair of wires reach to the hopper connector area?
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The molex connectors look good. No burn or anything.
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Could a dead battery be causing any of these issues? The battery read at 3.6 when I tested it
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I don't think a dead battery would give a coin timeout error. But if your battery is 3.6volts that is what it is supposed to be.
You could put it back together, see if anything has changed, if so then suspect a flaky connection. If still the same then take a break from troubleshooting, give a chance for other more experienced people than me to read thru what has been posted. They will digest it, maybe form an idea and post something.
When you went into the self test screen for inputs did you try putting a popsicle stick, tongue depressor or narrow strip of cardboard about the width of a nickel down between the coin optic boards? That should cause the ABC inputs to change from 0 to 1.
Also, since you had door optics problems before are you pretty sure they are working ok, when you close the door the machine senses it is closed? I think you will get a message on the screen that says "closure" when the door is shut.
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Trooper11040,
Can you give us a closer photo of the area circled in the photo below? I don't have one of those boards in front of me but, it looks like it my have broken trace in the photo.
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Door optic is working. Replaced it tonight and tells me door open or nothing if it’s closed. Here is a closer view of that spot on the board
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2F8C80ADA9-ECF2-4722-B8D4-2F0E644C1918_zpsjy2mbc6q.jpg&hash=740f9c569eb1fbadab8ebb184426f8111178e74d) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/8C80ADA9-ECF2-4722-B8D4-2F0E644C1918_zpsjy2mbc6q.jpg.html)
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OK, that looks fine. Also, take a look at the area circled below. Something looks strange there but, it could be the lighting. I had a connector once that had one of those pins bent inside.
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Is the coin comparitor on your benchtop (see photo below) a different one from the one shown in your first post of this thread? If you ordered 2 of them have you tried each one? Maybe I missed this if you already told us about it.
Also, the one installed in the door doesn't have a model label, are we sure it is a CC-16D?
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ok so i have 2...one is a 16D and the other is non labeled but has 2 grey wires...the 16D has 2 green wires (on the left molex)
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I don't know what those loose wires are for but I'd wrap their ends individually in black electricians tape for now, just to keep them from touching the bare metal chassis ground. That's the safe thing to do. All 3 of those loose wires look like they have a connector contact crimped to it, like it was removed from a connector. It's not unusual to find unused wires in a machine, sometimes they are there for optional casino equipment, like a progressive jackpot or security equip or player's card tracking equip. But these don't look like that to me.
Do the red and black pair of wires reach to the hopper connector area?
the first time i opened the machine when i got it, the red/black wires were under the MPU board close to the hopper...they are attached to one of the connectors on the motherboard..the closet molex to the front of the cabinet
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ok so i have 2...one is a 16D and the other is non labeled but has 2 grey wires...the 16D has 2 green wires (on the left molex)
and you tried both coin comparitors and got the same result?
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the one in there worked when i was in self test and turned the jackpot key on one of the settings...it lit the light green...the 16D didnt do anything
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looks like in the one photo, there is something white covering that hole...i zoomed in on my phone...let me go and check quick
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ended up being nothing....just fuzz or something
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I'm thinking that on a PE+ the Coin Detector A B C inputs should all 3 be showing a 1 with the machine just sitting there, then they change to a 0 if a coin or popsicle stick or whatever blocks the coin optic sensors. If that's the way it should be then yours is wrong, that's a clue to the problem.
Let's see what others say about this, but I think it should look like the second photo below (top photo is your machine):
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read thru these old NLG threads about a PE+ that has the error "Call Attendant Coin-In Timeout". Notice it says the ABC inputs on the test screen should be showing a "1" at idle, then change to a "0" when you insert something in between the optic boards to block the light sensors. Did you get the coin optics boards that are tested ok? And did you get them connected to cabling ok?
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=6822.0;wap (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=6822.0;wap)
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=18702.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=18702.0)
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Have you tried passing a black piece of paper down through the coin optics and see if they change from 0's to 1's?
ON would be when the optic transmitter's beam is hitting the receiver, a photo transistor that turns on when the transmitter's beam is hitting it.
When a NPN photo transistor transistor turns on it brings the output signal closer to ground, in digital speak a zero = on or beam not blocked, when the beam is blocked it produces a one, 1 = off or beam blocked.
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I’ll check it out...even the little button on the optics board doesn’t work. (Both of them that I own)
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Unfortunately still nothing. They don’t change no matter what. I also try to run the hopper test and it stops once the wheel starts moving and stops. Whatever is providing signal to the optics is shot. I’ve tried two optics boards and two hopper optics so far
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You have 3 fuses, one is 24V, another is 120V, the other is the low voltage fuse. That fuse provides the voltage that generates power for the optics.
Make sure it is good.
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Do we know which one is which? I have three in the back of the machine near the power switch...They are lined up top, middle and bottom
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If they are not marked check all 3 with a meter.
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All 3 have continuity...so it’s not that unfortunately
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Does the coin comparator harness provide any power to the coin optic?
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No, the comparator fires off a pulse to the A optic B and C fire when a coin passes through.
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Still have no signal at all. The coin diverter works, I can get the green light to light if I turn the jackpot key to coin lockout...so that harness obviously works. I’m wondering if I habe the wrong harness/coin comparator
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Could the wrong comparitor be causing me any issues? The harness I have only fits the left one...These are the two I have:
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2F7517AD36-857A-4D5C-B5FD-02AECF4BBB2B_zpstfn4qkkw.jpg&hash=dcab412912f6488bfb7ac53c0888631c401d0047) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/7517AD36-857A-4D5C-B5FD-02AECF4BBB2B_zpstfn4qkkw.jpg.html)
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Every 16D I search for has green. 16A has a red light
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I just looked thru mine 1 has a green lite, 4 have red lights. All have grey wires. (no green wires)
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Grey wires are for AC powered comparators, green for DC.
You have the correct comparator.
LED color doesn't matter.
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Test button on optics should work if comparitor is unplugged.
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See the attached drawing.
J10 provides signals and reads signals on the door, like the coin optics and door LED and receiver.
Make sure none of those pins on the backplane are not bent over.
Especially the one nearest the right edge of the board.
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So I need a comparitor with grey wires? Both coin and hopper optics are getting no power. Anyone live near Central PA? Lol
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See the attached drawing.
J10 provides signals and reads signals on the door, like the coin optics and door LED and receiver.
Make sure none of those pins on the backplane are not bent over.
Especially the one nearest the right edge of the board.
My board is in slightly different order. I took the board out and it says Players Edge 2 on it. My j10 is along the bottom row
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Does anyone by any chance have the manuals for the PE+?
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PM me your email address and I will send you one.
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Ok so the Manual says pins on J50 should be 8 volts at 1,3 and 4. How do I measure these with my meter? This molex is super small
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with super small meter leaders or shove a small sewing needle in the same hole and measure across the needles.
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So i "Think" I am not getting enough voltage to the orange harness at J50...the manual states i should get around 8 volts at certain pins...im def not getting 8 volts...could that harness just be bad?
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so im going thru the MPU and the Motherboard...I'm getting no resistance on R3 and R2...could these possibly be my issue? I get the continuity on the backside of the board though...so I don't know....anyone know any one who repairs these boards if there are issues?
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1972_zpsiwb5ifoj.jpg&hash=4d6615d183fae236dd0ebb4a5b8fcd79abe36267) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1972_zpsiwb5ifoj.jpg.html)
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I found this in an old manual for PE+ machine. What voltage do you get on the coin comparitor power connector on the left side of the cc-16, do you get 24 volts DC on the yellow wire?
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I’m getting 26v at the yellow wire on the harness
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That sounds like your wiring harness is good to the coin comparitor. Was the CC-16 coin comparitor you bought a good working one, or an unknown take-your-chances one?
Also, even if the CC-16 is bad I *think* your coin optics boards would work anyway. There are 2 coin optic boards, both facing each other. One board has the optic tx parts, the other board had the optic rx parts. The boards get power from the machine and when a coin or other object blocks the light from the coin optic tx the coin optic rx board detects that and sends a signal to the mpu board to add a credit. Also, the little switch on the coin optic outer board should add test credits when pushed. If not already done, maybe need to verify power is getting to the coin optic boards. Does it's wiring harness look ok?
Also, I think you mentioned earlier that you replaced the coin optic boards, or removed them and reinstalled them? I think there is a plate in between the boards that has holes in it for the light from the optic tx to pass thru. Plus there is a coin spacer in there. Did you get all of that assembled right, you don't have anything permanently blocking the optic tx light so it can't get over to the optic rx board? And there is a short ribbon cable that connect between the two coin optic boards, it is fragile and can get broken during handling.
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So here is an interesting one. I just plugged in the optics board and tested the boards harness and board while plugged in. I’m getting on some pins between 10v and 13v at the optics board. Could it be that both bords are just dead??
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answers to questions in reply#56 above?? - I'm on the verge of losing interest here. :garfield:
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The 2 I have could very well be considered "take a chance" coin comparators..i don't have the correct harness for the one with the green wires so I can't try it to be sure...the one I've been using has the 2 grey wires. The little switch on both optics I have don't work...but I am def getting power to the optics board as i checked each pin when it was plugged into the board...
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just my opinion,,,,
The PE+ machine you bought was not working when you got it. And you don't know about its history, what has been done to it in the past, from bad repair attempts to flooding (hopefully neither one). Anyway, when you have something like this the last thing you want to do is to buy "iffy" unknown repair parts and try to fix it. For all you know the parts you bought could be the wrong ones or non-working ones somebody is unloading for a few bucks.
So, I'd only buy known tested-good parts if it was me. And I buy them from someone trustworthy. At least you wouldn't have to worry about those parts and could focus on what else is wrong with your machine.
ebay take-your-chances parts are ok if your machine had been working for you for a while, then it failed and you knew the one part that you needed. But for situations like yours where there could be more than one problem with the machine I think buying parts you know are good would be best. This stuff is frustrating and hard enough without adding additional complications.
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Totally agree. I will go with more trusted sources of parts
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What are the part numbers of the coin optic boards, both the original set and the replacement set?
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so im going thru the MPU and the Motherboard...I'm getting no resistance on R3 and R2...could these possibly be my issue? I get the continuity on the backside of the board though...so I don't know....anyone know any one who repairs these boards if there are issues?
([url]https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1972_zpsiwb5ifoj.jpg&hash=4d6615d183fae236dd0ebb4a5b8fcd79abe36267[/url]) ([url]http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1972_zpsiwb5ifoj.jpg.html[/url])
Those 10k resistors are part of the U1 eeprom circuit. If they aren't broken you probably just aren't getting your meter leads connected right, or your meter is reading the parallel path thru the U1 internally. The only true way to verify a resistor is to unsolder and lift one end of it, then measure. Otherwise it is connected to other stuff in parallel and that will lower the resistance you measure.
The eeprom on the motherboard is there for security reasons, the casino or gaming regulators require a way to detect if someone has swapped the mpu board or game software. The eeprom stores some data about the machine, on power-up this data is compared to what is really in the machine and if different a fault is declared. Since your machine powers up ok and you get the video slot game on the screen then I don't think you have a problem with this U1 circuit. But you can try another motherboard if you want to prove it for sure.
What did you figure out about the red & wire wires near your motherboard that are not connected? Are they for optional equipment no longer installed and not important, or for something else?
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The 2 optics I have are numbered:
75305101 Rev A 1692 PCA (one I picked up)
75305100 A 9017 T1 (Original in game)
I never figure out what those red/black wires did
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Where exactly do the other ends of the red & black wires connect to?
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No clue. They were under the motherboard when I opened up the machine for the first time
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No clue. They were under the motherboard when I opened up the machine for the first time
So they don't connect to the motherboard, but run to the back somewhere, maybe back to where the power interface is (the panel with the fuses, ac line filter, power switch, etc)?
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Here is a troubleshooting chart I found for Coin-In Timeout problems on PE+ machines, hopefully it will apply to your machine. You can download it by clicking on the filename below the photo, in case that makes it easier to view.
I *think* the only real difference in your PE+ and the "normal" PE+ we usually deal with will be the player pushbuttons and associated wiring. A PE+ poker machine has several more buttons than your video slot PE+. So hopefully the coin comparitor and coin optics stuff is the same.
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It’s very possible. They come off the harness J3
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PE+ secondary power supply voltages, some of this is what provides power to the coin optics boards:
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What’s funny is I also have a coin out timeout error too lol. That optic is also new as of Friday and not working
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What’s funny is I also have a coin out timeout error too lol. That optic is also new as of Friday and not working
Perhaps the timeout errors are all related to the same problem, like a missing voltage or broken wire, bad connector somewhere? I think the various optic parts all use the same power voltage, called "VB". It is derived from the main power xfmr secondary 7vac output, goes thru fuse F1, then thru the motherboard, then gets rectified someplace to create the DC voltage VB.
Coin-Out Timeout error troubleshooting chart below:
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If the low volt DC voltage is low or not present then most optics won't work.
The Vbb isolated voltage for external parts like optics and front display is generated on the main computer board.
Not having a tester to take measurements "open face" you could tack solder a wire on each side of the on board Tranzorb diode for Vb then plug the board in and read across the wires.
There should be 7 or 8 volts there.
If there is not then it could be a bad power diode by the tray transformer or a bad Vb filter capacitor or a Tranzorb that is conducting (and probably getting hot).
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It’s very possible. They come off the harness J3
When you bought the new coin comparitor wiring harness and installed it, where did you connect it to on the door? Can you post a photo showing the inside of the door, showing the coin comparitor and surrounding area, including where the coin comparitor cable is connected?
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I took a look at a PE+ machine that I have access to, it isn't the exact machine as yours but maybe it is similar enough to be helpful:
1) I removed the coin comparitor from the machine and powered-up the machine. With the door open I pressed the white Self-TEST button to enter the Test/Setup menus screens. On the SelfTest Inputs screen the A, B, C coin optic inputs were all a "1". I dropped a coin thru the coin optic boards and the B & C inputs changed from 1 to 0 then back to 1 quickly as the coin passed thru. Next I folded a piece of paper to the width of a nickel and stuck it in-between the coin optic boards, the B and C coin optic inputs changed to 0 and stayed there until I removed the paper, then they went back to a "1" with the paper removed. Lastly, I pressed the little switch on the coin optic board and the B coin optic input changed to a "0". So having a coin comparitor in the machine or not in the machine doesn't affect the coin optic boards.
2) The PE+ machine I was using has a hopper that has an optic coin out sensor. On the selftest inputs screen the coin out sensor is normally a "1". I took the folded piece of paper and stuck it between the coin out sensor arms (they form an upside-down U) and the coin out input changed from a "1" to a "0".
3) I followed the wiring harness from the coin optic board back to the right where it connected to a larger connector on the inside of the door. I disconnected that connector, which disconnected all connections going to the coin optic board. Then I powered up the machine, pressed the white TEST button to get into selftest inputs screen and now all of the coin optic inputs and coin out input were showing a "0", just like your machine. (they should be showing a "1")
So, I think you could be missing the voltage/voltages needed to operate the coin optic boards. The optic board has a 10 pin connector called J50, I believe pin 1 is at the bottom and pin 10 at the top. On the PE+ I was messing with it has about 9volts DC on the optic board connector pin 8 with the meter black lead connected to pin 7, which is a green ground wire. This 9 volts DC is called "+Vb" on the PE+ drawing I looked at (maybe on other drawings it is "Vbb).
Since your hopper coin out optic sensor is also not working right then I don't think the problem is your coin optic boards or the wiring going to them. I think the problem is further upstream, somewhere that whatever is wrong is affecting not just the coin optic boards but also the hopper coin out sensor. Something that is keeping thr +Vb voltage from being made or from getting out to the hopper and the inside of the main door. That can mean your mpu board is bad, or the motherboard.
As badbaud said, these optic parts get their voltage from the mpu board, which makes it from the ac voltage coming thru the motherboard from the power transformer. When measuring voltages you may not be able to connect the meter ground (black) lead to machine chassis ground, the power supply voltages may be isolated (for safety) and the low side is floating, I'm not sure. So I put my meter ground lead on the optic board connector pin 7 gnd (a green wire) to measure the 9 volts DC (+Vb) on pin 8.
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If the voltage is good on the MPU board across the Vb Tranzorb then the harness coming out of the side of the tray and heads to the door wiring may have a bad crimp on a pin.
Brings back dreaded memories of trying to find a open wire or bad crimp on that large connector as years of wear with the door opening and closing actually breaks wires in the loom or at the pin.
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Here are some photos of the door itself
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1974_zpsjw6xt0ey.jpg&hash=c5f53281c6d751dc1873e3f6e4de17190a7e8bc7) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1974_zpsjw6xt0ey.jpg.html)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1975_zpswl4lcx0v.jpg&hash=bdc01c58dbcd8cdc68e58d92f2af2cb4a1327d8a) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1975_zpswl4lcx0v.jpg.html)
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Since your hopper coin out optic sensor is also not working right then I don't think the problem is your coin optic boards or the wiring going to them. I think the problem is further upstream, somewhere that whatever is wrong is affecting not just the coin optic boards but also the hopper coin out sensor. Something that is keeping thr +Vb voltage from being made or from getting out to the hopper and the inside of the main door. That can mean your mpu board is bad, or the motherboard or some wiring/connector further back. Keep in mind your hopper coin out sensor isn't getting power either.
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Since your hopper coin out optic sensor is also not working right then I don't think the problem is your coin optic boards or the wiring going to them. I think the problem is further upstream, somewhere that whatever is wrong is affecting not just the coin optic boards but also the hopper coin out sensor. Something that is keeping thr +Vb voltage from being made or from getting out to the hopper and the inside of the main door. That can mean your mpu board is bad, or the motherboard or some wiring/connector further back. Keep in mind your hopper coin out sensor isn't getting power either.
unfortunately I have to agree....it will be tough finding a new MPU and motherboard for this machine
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unfortunately I have to agree....it will be tough finding a new MPU and motherboard for this machine
Maybe not, knagl said the pe+ video slot was very similar to the poker slot. So an ordinary pe+ mpu board might work fine, just move your game eproms over to the new board. But since so much about your machine is working, you may only have a problem with the "+Vb" voltage, so you might be able to replace the bad component on the mpu board if that's the problem.
Figure out a way to add a couple of long insulated wires to the mpu, they can be small gauge, connect them on the mpu board where the "Vb" voltage is made and run the wires out so you can attach a meter. Power up the machine and see if the 9 volts dc is there.
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lol looking at my MPU now...trying to find it on here. I should have become an electronics guy!
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Ok found it. Let’s give this a test!
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Post a photo of your mpu board if you aren't sure about it, the area near where the transformer connects to the mpu. I think it is there somewhere. The drawings I am posting are for a certain mpu board, it may not be exactly the same as yours, IGT changed them somewhat over the years.
If you see a burned or seriously darkened part that might be what you are looking for... :garfield:
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Ok found it. Let’s give this a test!
.
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Nope, every one sells those boards, I even sell a PE+ multi board that has 5 poker games on it.
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ok..so ill solder 2 test wires to each end of this diode? (D2)
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1976_zpsbeb0vzoq.jpg&hash=b2ef9b0e80d06effa56af7b91a239a88f79273c8) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1976_zpsbeb0vzoq.jpg.html)
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There's a "VB" test point right there, that's what you want to connect to, so yes I think it is D2.
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+Vb and VB GND
Logic ground for chips is another ground.
Logic ground and Vb ground are not connected to each other anywhere.
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There's a "VB" test point right there, that's what you want to connect to, so it looks like it is D3 on your board.
ill need a little drawing like you always do to show where to put each test lead...lol
btw..you guys on this group are AMAZING!
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I typo'd on my prev message, I think it is D2 (not D3). But your board has special pads for test points, see the VB and B Gnd pads?
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Solder the test wires directly to the leads of the Vb diode, that diode is the Tranzorb that protects the Vb circuitry from voltage spikes.
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or connect here, you can melt the solder and poke your test wire into the test point pad.
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No, those pads don't go to the Vb tranzorb. The one on the right goes to logic ground.
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Nope, every one sells those boards, I even sell a PE+ multi board that has 5 poker games on it.
That will be what he wants after he gets this thing running. Poker is way more fun than slots.
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No, those pads don't go to the Vb tranzorb. The one on the right goes to logic ground.
I'm not following what you mean, it looks like the board copper traces go directly from each end of D2 to both of those pads I show in photo?? Which pad is not connected to D2 anode or cathode?
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I think vB is on its own trace on the left
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D2 def. traces to a logic board...see attached photo:
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_1977_zps0e9yvcsf.jpg&hash=7e78f8b886680ee060135d4a1887034d7ac67a44) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_1977_zps0e9yvcsf.jpg.html)
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+Vb and Vb GND ref des refer to the leads of the diode as being the test points not the pad on the right which, if you follow it carefully goes to the anode side of the Tranzorb for the 5 volt logic.
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+Vb and Vb GND ref des refer to the leads of the diode as being the test points not the pad on the right which, if you follow it carefully goes to the anode side of the Tranzorb for the 5 volt logic.
ok perfect...so ill add 2 test leads to D3..one on each end, making them long enough to test once everything is plugged back into the motherboard
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+Vb and Vb GND ref des refer to the leads of the diode as being the test points not the pad on the right which, if you follow it carefully goes to the anode side of the Tranzorb for the 5 volt logic.
hmm, ok, I guess my drawing is for a different board, it has D3 as the 5 volt zener and D2 as the spike suppressor for Vb voltage, and has D2 connected to CR25, CR25 is series rectifier that makes Vb voltage.
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So D3 came in at 9.6v on the DC side of the meter
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That should mean your mpu board is ok, it is producing the VB optic parts voltage. Now you have to look for how it gets from there to the optic parts. That 9.6vdc goes from the mpu board to the motherboard J1 connector, pin 27A, then thru a board trace on the motherboard and comes out at motherboard connector J3 pin 25. You could pull your motherboard out and check for continuity from J3-25 to J1-27A. Since the VB voltage for the hopper coin out sensor comes from a different connector on the motherboard than the VB voltage for the coin optic boards I'm thinking your problem has a good chance of being on the motherboard. But that is yet to be proven,,,, and I'm not sure if my drawings are accurate for what you have.
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Also, you will want to look extra close at your mpu board connector J1, make sure pin 27A is not bent over or broken since that is how the VB voltage gets from the mpu to the motherboard.
And likewise look closely at your motherboard connector P1 pin 27A connector and the J3 pin 25 connector.
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So D3 came in at 9.6v on the DC side of the meter
You are going to have to clear your message folder of old posts. I am getting folder full and can't post to it.
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So D3 came in at 9.6v on the DC side of the meter
You are going to have to clear your message folder of old posts. I am getting folder full and can't post to it.
Cleared it
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there is a good book on the S+ and PE+ available, go to page 93 in this book, it will explain the entire voltage distribution as far as the +VB is concerned!.
Jim
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there is a good book on the S+ and PE+ available, go to page 93 in this book, it will explain the entire voltage distribution as far as the +VB is concerned!.
Jim
Where do I obtain this book
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So I just checked every wires continuity from the MPU to the J50 harness and every wire was good. So that eliminates the harness as the issue. I know I’m getting 9.6vdc of power off the +vB circus. Definitely narrowing it down to the last few places
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I also have continuity between J1-P27 and J3-P25...so thats good
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according to the book I referenced here is the flow chart for the voltage from the mother board to the optic board.
J/P13 PIN 7 is ground. that ground travels through the motherboard and is present at J/P3-PIN 23.
J/P3-23 IT GOES TO J/P 203 PIN 14 IT GOES TO J/P 301 PIN10 IT GOES TO J/P50 PIN 7.
+ VB IS MADE ON THE CPU BOARD, it's output is at J/P1 pin 27A travels through the mother board and is at J/P3 pin 25
J/P 3-PIN 25 GOES TO J/P 203 PIN 3, GOES TO J/P 301 PIN 1, IT GOES TO J/P50 PIN 8.
hope this helps
Jim
k
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Once I get home, I’ll test these
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I will check for continuity on these later tonight. Getting ready to finish this and get it running!
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So here is something I just noticed. Looking at the diagrams, Its Showing the circuit to both optics boards (hopper and coin in) going thru RP1...RP1 on my MPU, is missing. Could that be causing my issue?
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(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FC171E517-A173-4DCA-8AD9-22DC60920AED_zpskzrxvjee.jpg&hash=719fe5bce7d88e724591ca7d00de16d170668c06) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/C171E517-A173-4DCA-8AD9-22DC60920AED_zpskzrxvjee.jpg.html)
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Yep, those are opto input series resistors . The optoisolator for 4 inputs won't fire without them.
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Yep, those are opto input series resistors . The optoisolator for 4 inputs won't fire without them.
Where can I buy these from?
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PM me
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as Badbaud pointed out, you do need RP1, how ever you still need +vb at pin 7 and 8 of the coin in optic P50. should be there when power is applied and the board in place (that's where the +vb comes from.
Jim
that jumper is supposed to be there, the black and white wire, it should be on pins 26 and 27 of P5, it connects B ground and H ground.
where does that yellow wire terminate or begin, I'll look at the schematics and tell you what is is!
Jim
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as Badbaud pointed out, you do need RP1, how ever you still need +vb at pin 7 and 8 of the coin in optic P50. should be there when power is applied and the board in place (that's where the +vb comes from.
Jim
that jumper is supposed to be there, the black and white wire, it should be on pins 26 and 27 of P5, it connects B ground and H ground.
where does that yellow wire terminate or begin, I'll look at the schematics and tell you what is is!
Jim
So you are saying I should still have power at J50? I don’t think I do but every wire from the harness to J50 has continuity.
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Does anyone know where this part comes from? As I await the arrival of my RP1 for the MPU to come in the mail, i decided to start cleaning up the game a bit, cleaning the chrome, etc...i found this part and have no clue where it comes from
(https://newlifegames.com/nlg/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi41.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe285%2FSkydivincoastie%2FIMG_2054_zpsfn7ddzr4.jpg&hash=8661547e3cbe86f7e0b0a2af2711be389315207c) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Skydivincoastie/media/IMG_2054_zpsfn7ddzr4.jpg.html)
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It goes way in the back to cover the wiring so a coin doesn't fall back there and short out something.
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Ok. I’ll try to look at where it clips in. Thanks as always! Hopefully your care package shows up Monday lol
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And the machine is WORKING!!!! The only remaining issue I see is occasionally if I drop a quarter in, it will pass thru without giving me a credit. Maybe 1 out of 30 won’t register.
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That's good news about it working 99%. What did you find out was the main reason the coin optics and hopper coin-out optic were not working?
For the rejected coin problem-
Did you turn the coin comparitor sensitivity adjustment all the way counter-clockwise? That's the small screwdriver adjustment in the lower-right corner on the front of the coin comparitor. If you've already done that then sometimes it helps to replace the "sample" coin quarter in the coin comparitor with a different coin. And make sure the screw on the sliding cover is firmly tightened. That's what keeps the sliding cover close to the front side of the sample coin so its metallic quality can be accurate measured. The sliding cover contains the sensor that is part of the comparitor electronic circuit.
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Badbaud I have to thank you big time for helping me and supplying the part!!
As for the coin not registering sometimes, I have it tightened all the way. I’ll try my second optic that I have laying around and see if that works
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Does your coin optic boards have the 25cent spacer between the boards, that's what forces the coin to pass thru the coin optic boards properly and get detected. Don't forget to try replacing the sample coin, it's easy to do. Not all quarters are created equal - metallically speaking.
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I replaced the coin and changed the sensitivity. Still every now and then one goes thru
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The coins that pass thru and don't give you a credit, do they go into the hopper, or returned to front coin tray?
If they go to the hopper then the problem is the coin optics boards. If the coin gets rejected to front coin tray then the problem is the coin comparitor.
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Ok I just changed out the optic and it’s working. They were going into the hopper
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Badbaud I have to thank you big time for helping me and supplying the part!!
As for the coin not registering sometimes, I have it tightened all the way. I’ll try my second optic that I have laying around and see if that works
Did you follow my instructions?
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Badbaud I have to thank you big time for helping me and supplying the part!!
As for the coin not registering sometimes, I have it tightened all the way. I’ll try my second optic that I have laying around and see if that works
Did you follow my instructions?
to the T....once I put the new optic in, everything worked perfect...havent had any slip up on the coins with the new optic
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Congrats on getting your machine working. Can you please elaborate on what you did or what part(s) you replaced to get it working, for the benefit of someone viewing this thread in the future?
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So after checking every single wire from MPU to optics, and not getting it working, I looked at the diagram for the optics. The optics used a resistor named RP1...I noticed it was missing (something one wouldn’t notice right away because it’s small). Once it was replaced, everything was golden!!
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Congrats on your fix. :applause: I’ve been following this thread almost from the beginning. Nice find on the missing part on the MPU Board. You had great help with Badbaud too.
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Congrats on your fix. :applause: I’ve been following this thread almost from the beginning. Nice find on the missing part on the MPU Board. You had great help with Badbaud too.
He’s fantastic along with many others here. So much great help!
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So after checking every single wire from MPU to optics, and not getting it working, I looked at the diagram for the optics. The optics used a resistor named RP1...I noticed it was missing (something one wouldn’t notice right away because it’s small). Once it was replaced, everything was golden!!
Was that missing RP1 broken off of the mpu board, or was it never installed to being with? Did the solder holes have little broken leads in the holes, or did the solder holes only have solder?
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I noticed there was nothing on RP1 like it was ripped off. Still had pins in the holes. I had to desolder the old pins
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I noticed there was nothing on RP1 like it was ripped off. Still had pins in the holes. I had to desolder the old pins
That means it probably got broken off when the board was being handled at some point in the past. If you'd had another mpu then installing it for troubleshooting would have quickly shown that the mpu was the problem, and that the coin optics boards and associated wiring was ok. Glad you got it figured out.
What's the status of the monitor display width problem?
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The width is still an issue. I can’t get it full width. Not sure what component on the chassis needs replaced or adjusted
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Other than the display width problem (which I think is an open issue on another thread) would you say the machine is working 100% ? Coin hopper pays out, pushbuttons work, button lites ok, fluorescent lighting, the pull handle works, etc?
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Yup everything is 100%!!
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Yup everything is 100%!!
That great - maybe you can mark this topic SOLVED and we can end it before it gets overly long. <too late!>
For any new problems you can start a new topic.
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Does your coin optic boards have the 25cent spacer between the boards, that's what forces the coin to pass thru the coin optic boards properly and get detected. Don't forget to try replacing the sample coin, it's easy to do. Not all quarters are created equal - metallically speaking.
I have the same issue (sometimes the coin is not detected). The machine was changed out from $0.50 setup to $0.25 setup. I changed the coin in the comparator but not the spacer (didn't know to change it or not). Is the spacer different for the $0.50 vs $0.25 coin?
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Yes. Each coin size used a different coin guide thru the optics. If your using a .50c coin guide running quarters, your machine will miss counting some coins. The guide keeps the coins centered as they pass the optics.
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Yes. Each coin size used a different coin guide thru the optics. If your using a .50c coin guide running quarters, your machine will miss counting some coins. The guide keeps the coins centered as they pass the optics.
Thanks, The coin guide you're talking about is the plastic part that the optics sandwitch in a S2000 machine correct? The metal guide on the outside (coin entry) is already changed. Just want to make sure since I could be calling the parts by the wrong name :-)
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Yes the black plastic coin guide for the optics.
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Yes the black plastic coin guide for the optics.
Thanks, Do you have any suggestions on where I can locate some?
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FYI, coin and hopper optics should read zero in test mode.They go to 1 when a coin blocks their optic.
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The black plastic quarter coin guide should be available through most of the venders located on the top of the home page. Check with Ohio gaming, Midwest slots or post a WTB ad in the classified section here. I’ve seen them on EBay.
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FYI, coin and hopper optics should read zero in test mode.They go to 1 when a coin blocks their optic.
Other way around. :Professor:
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Woops, used to using the scope. 0 = xsistor is on, 1 = xsistor is off.