New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: rjpohl on January 22, 2021, 11:14:03 AM
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E2212
Need help figuring out the code on door, see pic 1
the rod (piece) in the right circle on pic 2 keeps getting hung up out of position.
powers up with coin diverter engages, does not register a credit when coin switch is tripped. Hopper runs continuously.
any suggestions where to start?
thanks
Bob
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Bump - need some help getting started on repair.
Is the battery needed on CPU?
Thanks
Bob
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No the battery is only used for retaining the stats.
You can replace it with a NI-CAD cordless phone battery or leave it off.
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Bump - need some help getting started on repair.
Is the battery needed on CPU?
Thanks
Bob
Bob, for the Bally E series machines, a battery is very much needed. That the battery can be left off is incorrect. A lithium-ion or NiCd is what you need. If you want to change to a non-rechargeable type battery, the charging circuit on the mpu board needs to be altered.
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The battery on the MPU is not needed to make these Bally E1000 or E2000 machines to operate. They were used to retain the book keeping memory only and they will run without a battery. These machine how ever are meant to use the Ni-Cad rechargeable battery's. if you install a lithium battery you need to replace the resistor R1 with a diode as to not allow the battery to be charged.
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Without a battery you are likely to get an error from the low voltage detect. So roll the dice.
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The battery on the MPU is not needed to make these Bally E1000 or E2000 machines to operate. They were used to retain the book keeping memory only and they will run without a battery. These machine how ever are meant to use the Ni-Cad rechargeable battery's. if you install a lithium battery you need to replace the resistor R1 with a diode as to not allow the battery to be charged.
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bob - seems this thread has turned into a debate on the battery - addressing the issue you have here - did this machine work? the error looks to be issue with the P2 eprom or with the credit control board in the feature area of the machine. By the way my 2 cents - battery is NOT needed - there is no low voltage detect.
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No, this guy just bought several machines together. The others were S+. I was planning to pull the board and then re-seating all the EPROMs. I was also going to check battery voltage and replace if needed.
Thanks to everyone for there help,
Bob
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the display indicates issue with the P2 - either wrong or missing (USUALLY)
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I tested battery and it reads 4.196 vdc. I pulled all the eproms off the main board (beside reels) and reseated them. I pulled the board to do this and that's when I found that 1 pin was missing from the ribbon connector on the bottom right of board. the ribbon cable runs from the main board to the board on back wall and then up to board in top box. The pin missing is the top left as you look at the board.
thanks
Bob
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Here's pic of cpu board. the ribbon cable with the missing pin in the one on bottom right of board. Cable runs to board and back wall and then up to board in top box. I guess I need rind a replacement ribbon cable. Let me know if you have one.
The solenoid that pulls in to release handle is staying engaged (can pull handle as many times as you want). The coin diverter below coin comparator is engaged, takes coins but does not register them. Hopper continues to run.
Also the top 2 fuses on right (see picture) have blown twice.
thanks
Bob
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few more pics
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the display indicates issue with the P2 - either wrong or missing (USUALLY)
i have a chip reader/burner, How do I know if the P2 is good/bad/wrong?
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also on the fuses in picture above, the sticker has fuse size listed but how do I know if the top numbers apply to the top left or top right fuse??
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the ribbon cable going from io to top box - fix that first that is most likely the problem - the fuse box top number to left next number down to right etc.
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Here's pic of cpu board. the ribbon cable with the missing pin in the one on bottom right of board. Cable runs to board and back wall and then up to board in top box. I guess I need rind a replacement ribbon cable. Let me know if you have one.
The solenoid that pulls in to release handle is staying engaged (can pull handle as many times as you want). The coin diverter below coin comparator is engaged, takes coins but does not register them. Hopper continues to run.
Also the top 2 fuses on right (see picture) have blown twice.
thanks
Bob
KLAR sells those ribbon cables.
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Status Update:
I found a ribbon cable and with it and reseating the chips beside the battery I was able to get the display to act normal.
I tested coin switch (test 3) and it appears to be ok
The hopper runs continuously. When I run test 4 I get error 31 as soon as the hopper coin switch is activated. I will use jumpers and test switch, maybe bad switch.
The fuse on the top right blows as soon as I turn power on (I believe this is the light circuit. Yes/No?
Coin diverter on door is pulled in but still does not register coins.
any suggestions?
thanks
Bob
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Help Still Needed!
I'm going to try to work on this a bit more today and any suggestions are greatly needed and appreciated.
Would the "light" fuse blowing cause coins not to register??
Do I need to find the cause of the light fuse blowing before moving on??
Is there a "clear" procedure for the E2000 slots??
Switch by door lock seems to be a bit touchy, can I just by pass it??
I've got a old hopper board that I was going to install just to see if it would stop hopper from running continuously.
Thanks and hope you guys can help me.
Bob
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Yes!, bypass the door lock switch.
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Status Update 1/27/21
I replaced the hopper board and that took care of the hopper running continuously. Was able to perform hopper test, 10 coins paid out.
I also by passed the door key switch.
Found out if I disconnect one wire on door switch the light fuse does not blow. Most of the small lights then worked on the door. The wire I disconnected is yellow with blue dashes and was connected to normally closed terminal. I followed the wire back to a plug behind the hopper, where it connects and becomes a pair of solid blue wires. The switch has wires on all 3 terminals.
still doesn't register coins.
thanks for any suggestions.
Bob
where can i get schematic of cabinet to help run the short down?
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I hope I haven't wore out my welcome because I really need some help with figuring this "short" out.
The door switch (see picture in previous reply) has a wire on both the NC pole (the yellow/blue wire) and the NO. When this wire is hooked up to blows the "light" circuit fuse. With wire loose the majority of the small lights on door/buttons work. When I connect ohm meter leads to the yellow/blue wire and ground it shows continuity (a short).
If I leave the yellow/blue wire loose from door switch the machine seems ready to play (the coin diverter is engaged) but will not register the coin when coin switch is tripped.
Coin switch shows working under test 3.
Thanks and hope you can help me over this hurdle!
I hope to work on tis again tomorrow.
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It's possible that stray mystery wire (leave it off!) that should not be there destroyed the IC input on the I/O board that detects door open/closed.
The game may be never seeing an actual closed door.
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What progress I made seems to have disappeared.
Today when I powered slot on everything seemed as it was yesterday. I was going to run test 3 but couldn't get to it. When I press the test switch it only goes to 1. I can't get it to go to test 2. when i press 1 and let up on button the coin diverter drops out and the black buttons under reel 1 and 2 pull in and release, then diverter pulls back in. Display reads 50 0.00 and then 50 0.70 and then back to 50 0.00 and so on. If i press the reset button the last 0 on display becomes a 6 and the relay by hopper plug pluses.
Once when I turned machine on and activated the coin drop switch the relay by hopper plug started shattering until a fuse blew. To get the relay to stop engaging I had to remove a wire from coin drop switch. what is the relay for?
I'm lost and unless one of you guys can get me on track I'll have to give up on this one.
thanks
Bob
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the 6 usually means a power issue - reset the connection to the power supply- check for burn marks on the bottom 2 connectors.
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The relay is a "delay relay". It waits for a set time for the 5 Volt DC voltage to settle and power the board chips THEN turns on the 50 VAC voltage to the coils and such in the game.
Not getting past test one usually means the door is closed. The test switch won't work if the game door is closed.
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The relay is a "delay relay". It waits for a set time for the 5 Volt DC voltage to settle and power the board chips THEN turns on the 50 VAC voltage to the coils and such in the game.
Not getting past test one usually means the door is closed. The test switch won't work if the game door is closed.
Alan, you're probably right and I need to check the door switch circuit. In reply 20 I have a picture of door switch. The wire that is connected is on the NO (would be closed when door closes), I didn't get any voltage reading on it yesterday. Should there be voltage? The wire that's disconnected has 7.98 vac. It's the one that would cause the light circuit fuse to blow when connected to NC contact.
Should I hear or see the contacts close on the delay relay when door circuit is closed. The delay relay was firing when I closed the coin drop switch on the door.
I won't be able to work on this today but hope to over the weekend.
thanks
Bob
thanks
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If that one stray door switch wire had AC on it the AC voltage probably damaged the IC on the I/O board, the IC input that is connected to the door switch.
Yes, you should see the delay relay turn on.
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If that one stray door switch wire had AC on it the AC voltage probably damaged the IC on the I/O board, the IC input that is connected to the door switch.
Yes, you should see the delay relay turn on.
What is a IC? Is that a eprom? How do I check?
thanks
Bob
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U17 on the I/O board behind the Reel mech detects the door hinge switch on and off positions.
See attached
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I swapped out i/o boards and was able to get back into the test menu. I ran all test #3 except for door hinge switch (instructions said the personality prom must be removed for this test). I tried to run #4 test but I believe the delay relay is bad (see picture).
Bob
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The delay relay has nothing to do with the hopper.
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The delay relay has nothing to do with the hopper.
My bad, I meant test 2.
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Is there a way to bench test the relay with ohm meter?
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Apply 6VDC to the relay coil. + to the cathode side of the counter EMF diode, - to the anode.
Check contact resistance with an Ohm meter. Contact points, when closed should be below 2 Ohms.
If resistance is higher clean the contacts with a burnishing tool.
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Status -
I've got the it to where when powered up the coin diverter and coin reject are engaged and ready to play. With door close the insert coin light is on but coins do not register. I think I'm close, any suggestions on next step?
I performed the Test 2 and everything appeared to work as it should.
thanks
Bob
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Check the coin acceptance switch below the coin validator .
Make sure the coin is registered by the switch.
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Coin is registering on coin in switch. I’ve also operated switch manually with door switch jumped.
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Is the signal getting back to the board?
Could the wire have a break- bad connection at the door hinge?
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Door hinge switch appears to be working properly. If I close the insert coin light comes on, when door is open it is off.
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Attached is a picture of the coin switch, with the door closed and insert coin light is on, what voltage should I read on the Common, NO and NC contacts of the switch?
thanks
Bob
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Open door, turn power off, get your Ohm meter and read the resistance from the COM to N/C contacts then hold the switch wire down and read the COM to N/O contacts.
What did you read for each test?
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Open door, turn power off, get your Ohm meter and read the resistance from the COM to N/C contacts then hold the switch wire down and read the COM to N/O contacts.
What did you read for each test?
Comm to NC 0.00 (closed)
Comm to NO with wire held down 0.00 (closed)
sorry for taking so long to get back with this info.
Bob
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Ok the switch is good so now you need to go to the I/O board and see if your getting that signal to it.
That will tell you the wires to the I/O board are good.
If that checks good the the problem is with the I/O board.
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Ok the switch is good so now you need to go to the I/O board and see if your getting that signal to it.
That will tell you the wires to the I/O board are good.
If that checks good the the problem is with the I/O board.
since the switch test good under test 3 doesn't that indicate signal is getting back to i/o board?
thanks
Bob
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Did you do test 3 on the Arm and Kick switches?
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Did you do test 3 on the Arm and Kick switches?
Now test 3 on coin switch doesn't work (I know it did a few days ago). I'll try to trace those wires back to cabinet and i/o board next week.
Test 3 did work ok on Arm and Kick switches.
Thanks
Bob
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I think I found the problem(s). see burnt items on i/o.
i think items R7B, Q8 and R8B are toast.
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That is just the door open lamp.