New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => IGT S and S-plus Reel Games => Topic started by: Keats on July 22, 2022, 01:51:34 PM
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7/22/2022
IGT S+ three reel slot machine. Model B5133 CIW, Mfg 12/93,
Coin Mechanisms Inc. coin comparator Model CC-16-D.100 Rev F, CMI#66160071, 24 volt No Inhibit, IGT Part# 57018991 for small coins.
Motherboard battery Lithium #130127, 61 Green, ER14250 1/2AA, 3.6 Volt, 1.2 Ah.
My question: The battery on the motherboard reads .8 Volts when checked with a VOM. Will a low voltage battery prevent the coin comparator from functioning?
I have a new battery ordered and will replace it when received.
The machine worked well taking nickles and building up credits. The bill acceptor does not accept any bills no matter how old or new they are. Just spits them out.
So I fed the machine nickles and all was well.
About a month ago, it stopped taking coins. They just drop right thru into the metal tray below the front door. No credits show as available.
I opened the door and there was no loght at all on the coin comparitor. No Green, Red or Orange led light. Just nothing. I know that the LED light changes color to indicate the comparitors condition so it must be lit up with the door open so you can see it.
I checked all the fuses and all are good. There are no broken or unplugged conections.
I removed the coin hopper and was able to look behind the bill acceptor and I could see a small amount of an orangeish/brown sticky substance directly below the pull handle assembly. I believe that the handle actually functions an electrical switch and perhaps this is some type of insulation melting??
I'm planning to remove the bill acceptor to allow access to the handle to remove it.
I checked the motherboard for any visible signs of burning or damaged parts and everything looks good. All I can see is that the battery voltage is way down.
The sensitivity screw on the coin comparitor is turned counterclockwise. That allows the coins to register easier.
There are no codes showing.
So I'm really stumped. If anyone has had a similar situation or has any idea why this is happening, please post a reply.
Thanks,
Keats
Arizona
:EmoticonHelp4:
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I wo.uld try a different coin comparitor,also the coin in sensor underneath the coin mechanism itself may be dirty. what the hell,give it a try .PInball wizard
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7/22/2022
IGT S+ three reel slot machine. Model B5133 CIW, Mfg 12/93,
Coin Mechanisms Inc. coin comparator Model CC-16-D.100 Rev F, CMI#66160071, 24 volt No Inhibit, IGT Part# 57018991 for small coins.
Motherboard battery Lithium #130127, 61 Green, ER14250 1/2AA, 3.6 Volt, 1.2 Ah.
Model # is useless. Post the SS & SP chip numbers to identify your game. A picture of the MPU board and inside of machine is also useful.
The machine worked well taking nickles and building up credits. The bill acceptor does not accept any bills no matter how old or new they are. Just spits them out.
Has the BV ever worked? Is the insert bills light on? If not you will need a set chip to enable the BV. The SP+ FAQ describes how to do that and may people here can supply the set chip if you need one.
About a month ago, it stopped taking coins. They just drop right thru into the metal tray below the front door. No credits show as available.
Mine does that periodically as well (assuming the insert coins light is on). Have you tried changing the sample coin? Sometimes just sliding the sample coin holder a few times will make it start taking coins again.
I opened the door and there was no loght at all on the coin comparitor. No Green, Red or Orange led light. Just nothing. I know that the LED light changes color to indicate the comparitors condition so it must be lit up with the door open so you can see it.
Logical assumption but, no, the comparitor LED will not be on if the door is open. The only way to see it active is to snake the comparitor out through an opening with the belly door open. You should be able to press the white button on the comparitor with the door open to see if it adds test credits but I wouldn't sweat it yet?
I removed the coin hopper and was able to look behind the bill acceptor and I could see a small amount of an orangeish/brown sticky substance directly below the pull handle assembly. I believe that the handle actually functions an electrical switch and perhaps this is some type of insulation melting??
Common observation. If you search the forum for "orange brown" you will find several posts with pictures. IIRC it is from a rubber seal that dampens the rebound of the pull handle which starts to dissolve over time. Another back burner item in my opinion?
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7/23/22
"Off-Track" thank you for the reply..
I'll try to post a photo of the machine, etc.
BV never worked. When I bought it from an individual, I did not try a bill. Shame on me. That's why I relied on the nickles.
Tried different sample nickles. Nothing helps so far.
Insert coin light is Not On. All that's showing is last hand paid out amount on the far left end.
Ill try to move the comparitor enough to see if it will light up. I was not aware of a White button on the comparitor to add test credits. I'll look for it.
Rubber seal sounds like that could be it. Not a big deal but I thought I'd check it out while the machine is down and I'm waiting for a new battery.
Thanks again...
Keats
Arizona
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The tiny white button is on the coin in optics board just below the comparitor.
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I don't see where you replaced the battery. Sometimes an S+ will not toss the 12 code even when the battery is low. Low battery will shut the CC and the BV down. Start by replacing the battery.
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Lets start at the beginning - if your not getting the Insert Coin Light the machine is not ready to accept coins.
Messing with the coin bits is not going to help you.
IF you have an error 12 - this means battery low - you need to fix this before you can move on. Nothing works when you have an error 12.
If you don't have a error 12 then your battery is not being sensed as low regardless of what voltage your reading while on the board.
The most common cause of the insert coin light not being on - is that the door is sensed to be open.
Open the door... press the white diagnostic button a couple of times, close the door.
The reels should spin and the machine comes up to the insert coins prompt.
If your reels don't spin when you close the door - the door is not being sensed as closed.
In addition to the actual door optics there are other doors on your slot (belly door, bill validator door).
The first thing I would check is that your bill box is closed. The door on the front of it usually doesn't have a lock, open close the door tightly - if its springing open then use a small piece of electrical tape to keep it closed. Close the door. Does the reel spin ?
If the door optics have died - your going to need to replace those, you need the insert coin light to be on before your going to be able to deal with any actual bill or coin acceptance issues. You can check your optics by using a cell phone camera. The light is infrared so you can't see it with the naked eye but using a digital camera pointed at the optic you should see a small flicker from the emitter. If this is working - I would check the alignment of the optics to make sure they are matching up.
Post back to tell us what you have found.
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The tiny white button is on the coin in optics board just below the comparitor.
Found it. It really is tiny....
Thank you.
Keats
Arizona
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I don't see where you replaced the battery. Sometimes an S+ will not toss the 12 code even when the battery is low. Low battery will shut the CC and the BV down. Start by replacing the battery.
I ordered a new battery and will replace it when it arrives. I am showing NO Codes at all. Nothing shows up except the Winner Paid box.
I'm going to try to post a few photos.
Thanks
Keats
Arizona
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Lets start at the beginning - if your not getting the Insert Coin Light the machine is not ready to accept coins.
Messing with the coin bits is not going to help you.
IF you have an error 12 - this means battery low - you need to fix this before you can move on. Nothing works when you have an error 12.
If you don't have a error 12 then your battery is not being sensed as low regardless of what voltage your reading while on the board.
The most common cause of the insert coin light not being on - is that the door is sensed to be open.
Open the door... press the white diagnostic button a couple of times, close the door.
The reels should spin and the machine comes up to the insert coins prompt.
If your reels don't spin when you close the door - the door is not being sensed as closed.
In addition to the actual door optics there are other doors on your slot (belly door, bill validator door).
The first thing I would check is that your bill box is closed. The door on the front of it usually doesn't have a lock, open close the door tightly - if its springing open then use a small piece of electrical tape to keep it closed. Close the door. Does the reel spin ?
If the door optics have died - your going to need to replace those, you need the insert coin light to be on before your going to be able to deal with any actual bill or coin acceptance issues. You can check your optics by using a cell phone camera. The light is infrared so you can't see it with the naked eye but using a digital camera pointed at the optic you should see a small flicker from the emitter. If this is working - I would check the alignment of the optics to make sure they are matching up.
Post back to tell us what you have found.
Lots of very good info here. Thank You.
I have No Codes showing at all. The only thing that lights up is the Winner Paid.
I have a new battery ordered and when it arrives, I'm going to install it and try all of these suggestions.
Will try to post a few photos of the machine.
Thanks again,
Keats
Arizona
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(http://IMG_5052.jpg) , (http://IMG_5053.jpg), (http://IMG_5067.jpg), (http://IMG_5068.jpg), (http://IMG_5070.jpg), (http://IMG_5074.jpg).
Here' a few photos of my Triple Play slot machine. I hope they post.
Keats
Arizona
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Pics must be resized to 1000x1000 or smaller.
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Pics must be resized to 1000x1000 or smaller.
Well so much for that.
All my photos are 3024 X 3024. I don't know how to reduce them to 1000 X 1000.
I think I need a youngster to show me how to do that.
Oh well..
Keats
Arizona
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Right click on pic on win 10, choose resize. Most cell phones give option to resize before sending to yourself.
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Keats where you at in Arizona? I'm in Maricopa and work in Chandler - just moved from Mesa. PM me maybe I can help.
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Keats where you at in Arizona? I'm in Maricopa and work in Chandler - just moved from Mesa. PM me maybe I can help.
I'm in Peoria.
I'll keep you in mind, but I'm thinking that a new battery (on order) and a check of the door sensors may do it.
Thanks
Keats
Arizona
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If the winner paid window we is lit up and it’s not a error 12 - I see no value in replacing your battery.
In fact if you don’t have a clear chip. You may want to get one of those on order as changing out the battery may cause a 61 loop. Search the site for 61 loop. You will see hundreds of posts.
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If the winner paid window we is lit up and it’s not a error 12 - I see no value in replacing your battery.
In fact if you don’t have a clear chip. You may want to get one of those on order as changing out the battery may cause a 61 loop. Search the site for 61 loop. You will see hundreds of posts.
I'll keep that in mind. I am concerned because the battery only read .8 V . Should be 3.6 V
Thanks
Keats
Arizona
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Yes it should but you won’t get an accurate reading with the battery soldered to the board.
The absence of an error code is likely a door open issue.
If you haven’t been playing with door optics then it’s likely you bill box door that is open.
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When you close and fully latch the door, does the winner paid amount briefly go out and then come back on?
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When you close and fully latch the door, does the winner paid amount briefly go out and then come back on?
I really don't know. The MB is out awaiting a new battery so I can't check anything at this time.
I agree that maybe it's a door open situation.
After I get the fresh battery installed, I can check this out.
Keats Arozona
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The board with the battery.
Is the MPU board.
The motherboard is the small fixed board that the MPU plugs into.
It should be 15secs to slide the MPU back into the machine and test.
Without trying to sound pissy, several members here have chimed in trying to help you resolve the issues your facing, and you appear to be sitting idle waiting for a battery to arrive which is likely not your issue, and may introduce a mirriot of other issues. If I were you I would pop that board back in do some of the tests suggested. If you don’t own a SET and Clear chips I would order those in as they may be needed to enable the bill validator and reset the cmos after a battery change.
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Yes I agree. And if you need some help or questions - PM me, I can give you my cell number.
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The board with the battery.
Is the MPU board.
The motherboard is the small fixed board that the MPU plugs into.
It should be 15secs to slide the MPU back into the machine and test.
Without trying to sound pissy, several members here have chimed in trying to help you resolve the issues your facing, and you appear to be sitting idle waiting for a battery to arrive which is likely not your issue, and may introduce a mirriot of other issues. If I were you I would pop that board back in do some of the tests suggested. If you don’t own a SET and Clear chips I would order those in as they may be needed to enable the bill validator and reset the cmos after a battery change.
O.K. I'm sorry about using the wrong term for the MPU. You have to keep in mind that I'm not a slot machine repairman. I'm just a senior citizen with a couple of machines in my home bar area that the famoly plays with when visiting. I'm pretty handy but it's possible that the technical terms elude me from time to time.
I spent two days trying to figure out how to reduce the size of the photos I took of the machine, the MPU, door, etc. I think I've finally got it and I'll try to post a photo or two to see if it works.
I don't know what a SET and Clear Chip are. I'm assuming that I'd have to remove a specific chip on the MPU and install one of these replacement chips in it's place to get the machine to work again. Do I leave it in place then?
I had to replace a chip on my Game King a couple years ago, it actually replaced the chip that was in place when I bought the machine.
I don't want to screw up anything bu putting something in that I should not be putting there.
I really don't know where to obtain the two chips and if there are different chips, being sure to get the correct one.
The battery arrived by mail yesterday. Today it's time to solder it into place. You said that this might cause other problems. Again, I'm not sure what other issues I might cause by installing a fresh exact replacement battery.
I will put a piece of strong tape across the bill box door to keep it tightly closed leaving only the main door and the belly door that might be a cause of this problem. Because this is and always will be a machine for home use, would it be possible to simply eliminate the door sensors and maybe just splice the two wires together to produce a closed circuit so that the machine thinks the door is actually closed. ?
Also, I'd love to have a way to add credits to allow the family to just pay credits and avoid using coins. I'm open to suggestions in this regard.
So there you have it. I'm trying my best to fix this problem and I'm trying to learn the ins and outs of the repair that needed.
If I an get the photo to post, I'll add additional photos that may give some insight into the machine.
Thanks again,
Keats
Arizona
Fixed a broken quote box. -knagl
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28 July 22
Trying to post a few photos.
Keats
Arizona
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28 July 22
Trying a few more photos.
Keats
Arizona
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7/28/22
More pics
Keats
Arizona
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7/28/22
Last photos.
Keats
Arizona
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The majority of us are not slot techs. We are a community of home enthusiasts, and we are here helping each other.
The S+ slot is governed by two CMOS chips, one is on the Motherboard (fixed board) the other is on the MPU.
When you drop a couple of coins, pull the handle, the details of your transaction is captured by these two Cmos chips.
If the power was to die right in the middle of the spin, and come on hours later, the spin would complete just as if nothing happened.
The two CMOS chips stay in perfect sync with each other, through the book keeping features of the slot can be audited at any time for details like coin in, coin out.
lifetime payback percentage, last xx games etc. In the casino world - integrity of the game is important and must be able to be verified to regulators at the drop of a hat.
When you change the game - glass, reel strips, and the Reel and Game Chip - the CMOS realizes its not the same game you get a 61 error.
You then hold the white button, the machine dings, goes to a 61-1 error, close the door, turn the jackpot reset key, the reels spin and your ready to play.
This gets the CMOS chips to clear a bunch of their counters etc but its all in harmony with each other. This is all done to protect the integrity of the game.
In the Casino world this is a big deal and a game change needs to be authorized by regulatory authorities etc. The accountants get involved and a lot of detail is written down etc. Often the slot company comes out and does this for the casino. In reality the changing of the game is a simple procedure for the home enthusiast (no regulatory red tape). I have 60 different game kits for my machines, with the glass taking the longest part of the process to change.
When you change the battery - some times (search the site for 61 loop) the cmos gets corrupted and the 61, becomes a 61-1 and then goes back to 61 and never clears. To fix this you need a Clear chip, you pull the game chip, insert the clear chip, press the white button, it counts down - basically reformatting the two CMOS chips back to factory, you then pull the clear chip, insert your game chip and your back in operation.
You will then find that your hopper limits are back to the default of 300, there are no reel sounds, all pays go to the tray not the credit meter etc. You can follow the PSR sheet that matches your game chip (Program Summary Report) to reset these values to however you like them (and many more). You will also find that your bill validator does not light up.. If you post your game chip number and ask nicely for the PSR someone will send it to you, or if your a contributing member you have access to this in our downloads section.
The S+ really does not know what denomination it is - if the coin dropped in - matches the sample coin you get a credit. As it pertains to the bill validator you put a dollar in - the machine has no clue as to how many credits to give. If its a quarter machine you want it to give 4, if its a Nickle 20, a penny 100. To program this and to activate the bill validator you use a SET chip. Its used in the same manner as the clear, you pull the game chip, you put in the set chip, you choose the denomination you want. Then you save it, and put your game chip back into the machine. When you turn your machine on the validator bezel will be lit and it will accept bills.
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The majority of us are not slot techs. We are a community of home enthusiasts, and we are here helping each other.
The S+ slot is governed by two CMOS chips, one is on the Motherboard (fixed board) the other is on the MPU.
When you drop a couple of coins, pull the handle, the details of your transaction is captured by these two Cmos chips.
If the power was to die right in the middle of the spin, and come on hours later, the spin would complete just as if nothing happened.
The two CMOS chips stay in perfect sync with each other, through the book keeping features of the slot can be audited at any time for details like coin in, coin out.
lifetime payback percentage, last xx games etc. In the casino world - integrity of the game is important and must be able to be verified to regulators at the drop of a hat.
When you change the game - glass, reel strips, and the Reel and Game Chip - the CMOS realizes its not the same game you get a 61 error.
You then hold the white button, the machine dings, goes to a 61-1 error, close the door, turn the jackpot reset key, the reels spin and your ready to play.
This gets the CMOS chips to clear a bunch of their counters etc but its all in harmony with each other. This is all done to protect the integrity of the game.
In the Casino world this is a big deal and a game change needs to be authorized by regulatory authorities etc. The accountants get involved and a lot of detail is written down etc. Often the slot company comes out and does this for the casino. In reality the changing of the game is a simple procedure for the home enthusiast (no regulatory red tape). I have 60 different game kits for my machines, with the glass taking the longest part of the process to change.
When you change the battery - some times (search the site for 61 loop) the cmos gets corrupted and the 61, becomes a 61-1 and then goes back to 61 and never clears. To fix this you need a Clear chip, you pull the game chip, insert the clear chip, press the white button, it counts down - basically reformatting the two CMOS chips back to factory, you then pull the clear chip, insert your game chip and your back in operation.
You will then find that your hopper limits are back to the default of 300, there are no reel sounds, all pays go to the tray not the credit meter etc. You can follow the PSR sheet that matches your game chip (Program Summary Report) to reset these values to however you like them (and many more). You will also find that your bill validator does not light up.. If you post your game chip number and ask nicely for the PSR someone will send it to you, or if your a contributing member you have access to this in our downloads section.
The S+ really does not know what denomination it is - if the coin dropped in - matches the sample coin you get a credit. As it pertains to the bill validator you put a dollar in - the machine has no clue as to how many credits to give. If its a quarter machine you want it to give 4, if its a Nickle 20, a penny 100. To program this and to activate the bill validator you use a SET chip. Its used in the same manner as the clear, you pull the game chip, you put in the set chip, you choose the denomination you want. Then you save it, and put your game chip back into the machine. When you turn your machine on the validator bezel will be lit and it will accept bills.
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Wow. !! That's a lot of info. Thank You very much. It's starting to make a little sense now.
I posted a bunch of photos after I was able to downsize them. Of all the chips on the MPU, how do I determine which is the "Game Chip" to remove to insert the Clear Chip. I'm a bit timid about messing this all up. On the board there is a chip in a socket with printing on the board reading GAME PROM and the chip has a paper tag with SP731 hand written on it. Is that the Game Chip.? Seems pretty straight forward. I just don't want to assume anything.
Next to it is a chip in socket with REEL PROM written above it on the board and a printed paper tag that reads S+ Reel SS3721 L91-0419 on the chip itself.
On the other side of the GAME CHIP is a similar chip (same size as the other two) in a socket labeled CMOS. A little further away is a chip that has Sound printed on the chip itself.
Next to the REEL Chip is another larger chip with more connections and no identifiers.
Lastly, there is an open socket that is the same size as the GAME and REEL and CMOS chips. It has nothing written next to it. It's just an Open Socket..
I'll try reinstalling the MPU board and I'll try the machine. If it still won't work, I'll post additional information about it's status.
Next question is where do I obtain a Clear chip and a Set Chip if needed. Are they game specific or just a generic S+ set of chips to fix my S+ machine. ?
Thanks again,
Keats
Arizona
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The reel eprom is installed backward, probably fried it. :talktothehand:
I have never removed any chips from this machine. It was functioning well except for the BV until it stopped working. This is the first time I've even removed the coin hopper to get to the circuit boards. So if the chip was installed the wrong way, that's how it's been for the past two years that I owned and used it.
Keats
Arizona
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The comparator light goes off when the door is opened, that's why you don't see light on the LED.
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I have never removed any chips from this machine. It was functioning well except for the BV until it stopped working. This is the first time I've even removed the coin hopper to get to the circuit boards. So if the chip was installed the wrong way, that's how it's been for the past two years that I owned and used it.
I think Mark is saying that based on the fact that the SP731 label was put on backwards? If you look closely one end of the chip has a notch right in the middle. The socket underneath will also have a notch and that is the important indicator of the the proper chip orientation. Seeing as the SS chip is also installed with the same orientation I'm betting it is correctly installed. Don't worry about empty sockets, that's normal.
Yes, the Game PROM chip (SP731) is removed and replaced with the proper set chip to allow you to enable certain options such as the BV. User RB or Jim @ Midwest slots (among others) can supply you with the correct set chip for your game. After the set is applied you replace the original SP game chip to continue.
There is a lot of good information in the FAQ entry at the top of this forum with tips on how to drill down on the particulars of using the set chip, and how to look up details on your chipset.
Attached is the PSR for SP731.
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30 July 2022
O.K., I think I've got it figured out. After speaking with a friend, he suggested a You Tube video and I watched it. Same machine as mine but it was a Double Diamond game. Mine is a Triple Play. Inside they look identical. Same MPU etc.
In the video they showed a code 12 in the Winner Paid window. Same as mine. Hmmm?
They replaced the battery that was showing a zero voltage and went thru the Clear Chip procedures and the Code 61-1 and 61 and eventually got the machine up and running again.
Very easy to follow their instructions.
I put my MPU back into the machine just now and sure enough, I got a code 12 in the winner paid window. I did not realize that this was a fault code when I first saw it. I assumed it was that the winner was paid 12 coins. Duh !!!
I had not played the machine for some time and I thought it was something from a game played by the dog sitter last time we were out of town. I took a photo of this condition and will try to post it with this reply.
So, I have a new fresh battery and all I need is to obtain a S+ Clear Ram Chip and possibly a Set Chip too and hopefully I'll have it up and running again. Sorry it took so long to get to the actual problem.
If I can find the chips here for a reasonable price, I'll grab them. Otherwise, it's E.Bay for them.
Any ideas ? I'm always open to suggestions about how to get this fixed...
Thanks and I'll keep everyone posted of my progress. It may take a while because I have to get the chips first.
Keats
Arizona
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Go ahead and replace the battery. You should not need a clear chip. You will need a set chip to enable the bill validator.
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Then you'll need to read this...>>>
http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm)
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Then you'll need to read this...>>>
[url]http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm[/url] ([url]http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm[/url])
Good information. Thank You.
Question, assuming that my B.V. is actually good but not enabled due to a previous battery replacement before I bought this machine, How do I determine the version of the chip in the B.V.?
Mine has a few small stickers on it and the first one reads:
IDO23 V3.11.11 below that on the same sticker it reads DBV 145-SS M1 and right below that it reads 08/04/98 512K.
The next sticker reads IDO 023 and right below that on the same sticker it reads V.3.30 (then something illegible ) 1/03. I should note that this sticker it on top on another sticker.
So do I have a version 3.11.11 chip inside the B.V.? Is there a way to remove the B.V. and access the chip itself to see what (if any) markings it may have on it.
I've looked for a video or instructions about how to do this but so far - No Luck..
It looks like it should come apart with just a few screws and the circuit board / chip would remain in place uncovered allowing me to see the chip. I don't want to just start taking screws out without instructions. Can I trust that the stickers on the B.V. are accurate?
If you have any links to repairs / upgrade videos or photos / drawings, please let me know.
I'll try to post photos of the B.V. and the stickers here..
Thanks
Keats
Arizona
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Those 145s are very old so it's probably updated as far as it can go. It is pretty limited and may not even work. Get the machine working before messing with the BV. Did you change the battery yet?
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Those 145s are very old so it's probably updated as far as it can go. It is pretty limited and may not even work. Get the machine working before messing with the BV. Did you change the battery yet?
Clear RAM chip and Set chip will be here this week. Battery to be replaced when they arrive.
Hoping that the BV works after I do the Set chip procedure, (if needed). Just wanted to know if the BV chip was the latest version for that BV.
Still can't find a disassembly video. photos, for the BV. So what if I wanted to replace the chip in the BV. How would I get it open to access the chip.?
Thanks
Keats
Arizona.
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Don't think any 145s had eproms you could upgrade, you would have to send it to someone and get it flashed. Be much better off upgrading to a WBA12/13 setup.
Do not clear machine unless in the 61 loop. :talktothehand:
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The DBV-145 should have an EPROM. I will post disassembly pictures later. DBV200 will accept a few more newer bills. If you want to go with a WBA, Jim Midwest Slots has all the parts to make the conversion.
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Don't think any 145s had eproms you could upgrade, you would have to send it to someone and get it flashed. Be much better off upgrading to a WBA12/13 setup.
Do not clear machine unless in the 61 loop. :talktothehand:
I wouldn't be surprised. This is an old model and I'm sure your right. I'll just let it go and when I do the Set chip, I'll see if I can get it to run again. Should be able to take 20's and that would be nice..
Good tip RE: the clear chip use. I'll see how it comes up after I put the new battery in.
Thanks
Keats
Arizona
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Here's the 145
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EPROM inside
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DBV-145 ID022/23 V 3.40. will accept the new $20 and new $50
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EPROM
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Cool! I have never opened one of those up! I have a half dozen or more around here somewhere.
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Just a FYI, the 145 can only provide one protocol, either 023 or 022. so, when upgrading this unit make sure the sp chip in your machine will support the new software!
example, if your sp chip supports 022 protocol, and you put in a 023 protocol, it will not work, easy fix, change the sp chip in the machine .
Hope this helps
Jim
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Just a FYI, the 145 can only provide one protocol, either 023 or 022. so, when upgrading this unit make sure the sp chip in your machine will support the new software!
example, if your sp chip supports 022 protocol, and you put in a 023 protocol, it will not work, easy fix, change the sp chip in the machine .
Hope this helps
Jim
8/2/22
Thank you.
I'll look at it after I get the machine up and running. If all is well, then I'll try to open the 145 BV and see exactly what chip it has. Maybe, it can be upgraded. Maybe not. When/ if I do, then I'll take photos and post them here. It's goot to share these photos so others can see what things look like. Can't find anything on You Tube etc.
Keats
Arizona
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3 August 2022
HORRAY !!!!!!!
I have the machine up and running again. I had to use a Clear Ram chip and got rid of the code 61 and the machine will now accept coins and play like it used to.
I then swapped out the game chip for a SET chip and was able to enable the BV. It now lights up and I tried it with $1.00 bills. It takes them and stacks them like it should.
However, instead of adding credits to the machine, it dispenses 20 nickles for each dollar it accepts. So in effect it's a change machine. That's not what I want it to do. I want to be able to insert bills and have the machine add up credits to match the dollar amounts inserted.
When I was setting up the BV chip, it allowed me to set the denomination and I set it to 5. It's a nickle machine so I assume that that setting is right. Maybe it was suppose to be set to something else? I tried to follow the instructions that came with the chip but it was not very clear about that.
So, bottom line, it works again. Worse case, I just feed it nickles and play it.
I really do appreciate all the great replies from everyone and If I get it to take bills and add credits, I'll post again.
Till then, I'm wishing everyone much Health and Wealth.
Keats
Arizona
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Press the cash-credit button to light it up before you insert bills. Do wins go to credit meter or pay in coins? You may have to change the 5_x and/or 8_x settings.
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You will probably find that all your wins are paid to the coin tray rather than going to credits as well and your likely missing your reel sounds.
Most of this got reset to factory once you used the clear chip.
All of these items, including hopper limits, credit limits, partial pays, use of the bell on wins, jackpots only, etc can be controlled/adjusted just using your white set button.
I have attached two files. One is a PSR - Program Summary Report - this outlines all the options for your Game Chip (SP chip).
These can be a bit hard to read so one of our esteemed but now retired members created a simplified sheet that covers off many of the major SP chips.
Contributing members have access to the whole library of SP/SS files in the download folder including service manuals, error flip cards etc.
Per your use of the set chip. If you set it to 5, and you get 20 coins to your coin tray you know you did it right. Nothing more to do with the set chip.
I use tokens in my machines, pretending they are quarters, however my bill settings I set as a penny. That way I can add 100credits quickly for a buck.
Now that you are familiar and comfortable with the use of set chips, removing your game chip etc. I point you to the IGT S+ Bible (Ricks FAQs on our home page).
You can turn your machine from what ever theme to what ever theme.
Ie Your three coin double diamond can become a 5 coin RedWhite and Blue just by changing the Game Chip, Reel Chip, glass and strips.
Being able to swap out your theme adds loads of fun and longevity to your platform.
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Can't tell for sure but it looks like sp731. If it is menu 5- should be set to 5-2. While you're at it change to 6-1, 7-1 8-1. You should already be at 9-1 from using the set chip. That should do it.
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5-0 and 8-1 will send wins and bills to credit meter. (as long as the credit limit is set high enough)
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5-0 and 8-1 will send wins and bills to credit meter.
Thanks,
From all the things I've been able to find and read, it looks like I need to push the White Self Test button once and then use the spin reels button to scroll thru the various #'s till I reach the 5 series and then use the reset key to change it to display 5_0 and then do the spin reels button again to get to the 8 series and do the same thing till it reads 8-1. Hit the key again one time to set it and it should be good to go.
I'm not sure that this is correct but I think it is.
All I'm trying to do is have the machine add credits to play with when I insert a bill from $1.00 thru $20.00 and when I win just add the win to the same credit meter. I used to be able to hit the cash out button and the machine paid out whatever credits were available as nickles dispensed into the coin tray. Now it just changes the bill to coins and spits them out into the coin tray below the machine. The game plays when I use nickles to feed the machine, but wins drop coins out from the hopper. Should be an easy fix and probably something I've overlooked but the terminology used in the various pages that I've read leave me confused. I have no idea what accounting system I should have, I don't know what an SAS is, etc.
I'm just looking for a easy set of instructions like open door, machine on, push self test White button once, push spin reels until the proper code number is displayed, use another button to toggle thru the options for that code and then turn the key once to set it. Then how to go on to the next setting I need, etc.
Maybe I can find a video that shows that somewhere.
Again,
Thank you very much,
Keats
Arizona
Keats
Arizona
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Just keep pushing the white test button until you get to 5. Use spin button to change it to 5-0 Then turn jackpot key to get to 8. Use spin button to change to 8-1, I believe with SP731.
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You might have overlooked something SCM?
There's an SP731 GAME PROM in my test machine.
I have to set it to [5-2] to get the [Cash/Credit] lamp lit up and send winnings to the credit display.
If I want, I can physically press the [Cash/Credit] once to have winnings spit out to the coin tray instead...
or turn it back on - to send winnings to the credit display.
p.s. I just tried setting it to [5-0] and could not turn on the [Cash/Credit] button lamp.
Had to set it back to [5-2].
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5-0 makes cash-credit button blink and you don't have to press it to light it up. (does not blink until you have credits)
5-1 you have to light cash-credit button up or it will pay from tray.
5-2 sends coins to tray.
EDIT: this is with SP1271
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EDIT: this is with SP1271
Ohh!!! hahaha :duh: I thought you guys were talkin' about the SP731!!
I'm going golfing! :24:
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EDIT: this is with SP1271
Ohh!!! hahaha :duh: I thought you guys were talkin' about the SP731!!
I'm going golfing! :24:
My bad. Just noticed it was 1271 I was using. Can I go golfing with you?
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Anytime! :rotfl:
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I will toss in a 731 and see what is different. I thought they were the same settings just had a different way to get to them.
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LIV or PGA ? what a mess.
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5-0 makes cash-credit button blink and you don't have to press it to light it up. (does not blink until you have credits)
5-1 you have to light cash-credit button up or it will pay from tray.
5-2 sends coins to tray.
EDIT: this is with SP1271
It worked.... Had to set it to 5-2 for credit light to come on and 8-1
It's taking $1.00 bills only but that's better than it was before. Credits are adding up.
Thank you to everyone..
Keats
Arizona
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I would suggest you try older bills….none of the colored money will work.
Jim can set you up with a head that can deal with most everything.
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I would suggest you try older bills….none of the colored money will work.
Jim can set you up with a head that can deal with most everything.
Yea, I'm keeping my eyes open for good looking older bills. So far it's kinda picky about the $1.00's as well. Takes them sometimes and we then retrieve them from the cash box and run them again. Sometimes even they don't work again.
I really didn't want to have to pull the MPU again and go thru the BV chip process. Maybe at a later date.
I know that the BV is old but it was suppose to accept 1-5-10-20's. None of the larger bills are accepted. I'm sure it's another setting. Maybe when I set up the chip, I should have entered 20 instead of 1. Maybe it's only set to take the $1.00's. ?? Hey, I'm still ahead of the game.. It's running and taking some bills so life is not bad...
Thanks again
Keats
Arizona
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No.
The S+ is based on coins & credits.
You drop a coin in, it compares against the sample coin if its a match you get a credit.
The machine has no idea if its a penny, dime, nickel, quarter, or Spanish Galloon.
One in = One Credit.
I use Japanese Pashilo tokens that are roughly the size of a quarter. I have 4 machines and around 10,000 tokens.
When you SET the bill validator your telling it what denomination to translate the coin exchange to. Setting it to 5 gives you 20 credits for your dollar, setting it to 25 gives you 4 credits. You do not SET what bills it takes.
There is a series of dipswitches on the side of the head that tell the validator what bills it will take or what to exclude.
On some of the older heads casinos turned off $50's because there was a way to color a $5 bill to make it appear to be a $50 to the head.
When people inquired the casinos used to tell people that $50's were unlucky.
The other point I will make is that money is dirty. So the optics in the heads get dirty and cleaning helps.
There is also belt replacement as sometimes they slip and fail to read bills.
There are calibration cards that you insert into the head that reprogram/realign a head to better read bills.
Since your up and working with coins (the title of your post)
- I suggest you start a new post in the validator section titled - DB145 only accepting $1's and the guys will help check your dip switches etc.
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No.
The S+ is based on coins & credits.
You drop a coin in, it compares against the sample coin if its a match you get a credit.
The machine has no idea if its a penny, dime, nickel, quarter, or Spanish Galloon.
One in = One Credit.
I use Japanese Pashilo tokens that are roughly the size of a quarter. I have 4 machines and around 10,000 tokens.
When you SET the bill validator your telling it what denomination to translate the coin exchange to. Setting it to 5 gives you 20 credits for your dollar, setting it to 25 gives you 4 credits. You do not SET what bills it takes.
There is a series of dipswitches on the side of the head that tell the validator what bills it will take or what to exclude.
On some of the older heads casinos turned off $50's because there was a way to color a $5 bill to make it appear to be a $50 to the head.
When people inquired the casinos used to tell people that $50's were unlucky.
The other point I will make is that money is dirty. So the optics in the heads get dirty and cleaning helps.
There is also belt replacement as sometimes they slip and fail to read bills.
There are calibration cards that you insert into the head that reprogram/realign a head to better read bills.
Since your up and working with coins (the title of your post)
- I suggest you start a new post in the validator section titled - DB145 only accepting $1's and the guys will help check your dip switches etc.
Thanks Jay. You've given me a lot of info and I believe that if I set the BV to 1 instead of 5 it will give me 100 credits for a buck. That would be great. I know that the grandkids would love to have a bunch of credits to play when they come to visit.
I'll take your advise and create a new posting because this is a different topic.
Thanks again.
Keats
Arizona
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According to the PSR for SP731 $.05 (nickel) is lowest denom you can choose.
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Perhaps he can upgrade to a 1271 then. It will not change the play but widen the options.
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I prefer SP1271 on my games and it does allow for 1 cent denom. :I_agree_1:
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I prefer SP1271 on my games and it does allow for 1 cent denom. :I_agree_1:
O.K., Not to sound too dumb. Isn't the actual game on the game chip ? If I were to get a SP1271 game chip, wouldn't I lose the current game I have on my machine?
Is the same game available on a different game chip and it could be swapped with my SP731 chip?
Getting it to do a 1 cent denomination would be nice to build up credits but if the BV could be set to accept 20's or even 10's then I would not have to change the game chip.
I'm going to post on another area that deals with the BV. This is more the BV issue now than the game not working as shown in my original posting RE: coin acceptor not taking coins.
Thanks to all who replied and I really do appreciate it.
Keats
Arizona
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SP chip is like the Operating System. The reel chip (SS) has the paytable to match the reel strips and award glass.
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Short answer NO you won't loose your game but you will have to use your Set chip again to activate your validator.
There are two chips that make up a game set.
The SP Game Chip and the SS Reel Chip.
The Game Chip can be thought about as the Operating System of the Game and the Reel Chip is the game / theme.
The 731 is an older chip and the 1271 is a newer chip both are roughly equivalent.
Per the boyz above it would appear that the newer chip allows 1c denomination while the older does not.
There will be other changes such as the ability to have different credit and hopper payout limits rather than having them tied to the same value.
Basically newer chip, more options.
The PSR document - Program Summary Report provides all of the options and setup information for the Game Chip
The PAR Sheet - Pay Table and Reel shows all the details about %% payback, variation etc.
If you go to the IGT game bible (see Ricks FAQs on the main page for the link) you can look up your theme and see all the different SS chips for your theme - each having a different payback %% there is also a bit of the information that is available on the PAR sheet.
Based on the PAR information - it will tell you what 'TYPE" of game chip you need to run the theme.
TYPE 0 is the most common - no special features. About 90% of all game chips support TYPE 0 games.
TYPE 1 are nudge games where the reels go up or down based on a reel symbol like the arrow on a diamond or a balloon.
There are about 14 or 15 different TYPES.
There are many different game chips available - a 731 or 1271 support several kinds of games as do many others.
From the SP1271.DOC I gave you ......the 1271 supports Type 0 (no special features), Type 1 (Slam Dunk, Balloon Bars, etc.), Type 4 (Spin ’Til You Win), Type 5 (4th of July), and Type 19 (4th Coin Buy-a-Pay).
Certain game chips support Montana Credits - which allow you to plug in say 15 coins and you get 15 credits, where as most chips just let you put in the max number of coins for your theme.
If you want to use Montana Credits you just need to find a Game Chip that supports Montana Credits and supports TYPE 0
Some themes (not yours) have the ability to choose from 10 different winning songs. So when your machine hits - instead of the classic ding,ding,ding sound it can Play "Your in the money" and other catchy tunes. This is supported with the 731 chip but not the 1271. Some of these fun features went away to make room for more accounting information that was required by gaming regulators.