New Life Games LLC
**Video Poker, Keno, Slots, 21** Gaming machines => WMS Williams Video => Topic started by: dragster73 on August 06, 2022, 02:08:18 PM
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Does anyone know the part number for the individual LEDs on the Small PCBs for the Emotive lights? Or does anyone have NOS boards they would like to sell?
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Replacing those LEDs has not been possible for me. I can get them OFF, but not putting them on again without damage.
I found some LEDs on old BB2 reels that never get used. - the very very very top PCB of LEDs.. Brand new, pretty much. Removing them from THOSE PCBs are easy. The Emotive LEDs are aluminunimmm or something and suck up the heat. I've spent some money on little LED replacement tools for TVs but they dont get hot enough either.
So I have decided to recreate the damn things from scratch. (minus the firmware on the microcontroller)
I am almost done with the schematic... Still need to lay out the PCBs. Send out for assembly and test. I never get anything right the first time, maybe the second revision. It annoys me to no end to see dim Blue lights on the BB2e .. GGRRR
The LEDs I use are restricted to what parts are available by the assembler (i use jlcpcb.com). I've found some that look good on a screenshot and made the schematic to match those.
I would like to know the original part number, too, but won't do me any good if I have to solder them on myself.
If you try, practice on bad one's first. Save the good one's for once you have the process down. I have a lot of bad one's if you want. lol
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Have you tried to solder paste type of solder that comes in a syringe? I can not practice replacing them if I don't have a replacement. I would be interested to see what your replacements look like once you get further into the project. Thank You for responding.
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Making progress.. It is slow. Next is to add the traces..
For some reason I thought the picture would be bigger...
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It is done.
My first 4 layer board...
Saving up to get a trial run done... Each PCB will cost me about $150 to have made and assembled.
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$600 to replace the four boards?
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So the LED driver chip they use ... It seems to be pretty unique. Out of stock everywhere. Looking to see if there is a different package available of the same chip.
It has gone from 3.00 to about 40.00 a chip. Each board uses 3 of them (Red, Green, Blue).
There are minimum pieces required of these things. The quote I got back was over $1200 for the required number of chips for a trial run.
There is still other components to cover too...
Putting this project on the shelf.
Back to trying to change the LEDs.. lol
This is the LED Driver - https://jlcpcb.com/parts/componentSearch?isSearch=true&searchTxt=TLC59116
If someone finds a secret stash, let me know.
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Looks like there were a few hits on eBay. not sure of which package you were looking for though.
DEAD LINK REMOVED
This is why it's MUCH BETTER to add a photo with the link because links go away.
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The reason for PCB assembly is because LEDs are sensitive to temperature and there are components on both sides of the PCB, and these chips are too small for me.
There does not seem to be a reason all the components could go on one side (with the exception of the RJ45 connector), which would make life so much easier. I'd even assembly.
The part shortages ... They also cannot source the microcontroller.
Maybe not done with this yet. Will look for same parts in different packages and move to front.
Looking to use this LED - https://jlcpcb.com/partdetail/liteon-LTSTK563BGEW/C284911 because it is a name brand and there were in stock at the part house in large quantities. Figured it would be a good place to start. Need to find a source here.
By the way, the default brightness is set by one resistor on each LED driver. It is super tiny, located above the LEDs... Changing the resistor to a lower value should make the LED brighter, but it will also burn it out.. How long? Who knows. They're already burned out... If only they used a larger sized resistor package.
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I ordered some parts in different packages. Going to breadboard it and see how it goes... Few weeks for parts to arrive...
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Took a week to update the PCB with different package types of the same chip and moved everything I could to the front. Still 4 layers..
Sent a few off to be made and assembled, I'll have to put the chips on myself. The cost has gone way down.. Wonder if it will work.
Just realized I forgot to add ground planes on all layers. Hmmm...
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While I wait for the PCBs to arrive, other parts are showing up.. I put it together on a breadboard... These are the same chips, just different packages..
Only 1 LED hooked up at the moment. Not sure if you can see it. (Top Left under the Red and Yellow wires)
The LED drivers are TSSOP28. I've never soldered anything that small before. And they are SUPER tiny, but I did it with minimal problems using a lot of flux.
If I plug it in and get a BLUE LED I think it is a success.
The orange breadboard are the dipswitches..
Let's go plug it in.........................
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Unfortunately, I do not have a game loaded on my BB2e so I cannot test further, but I got a Blue light!
See?
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The PCBs are in.. Still waiting for the RJ45 jacks to arrive and need to put the chips on. Amazing how close I got the holes and notches.
I also tested the LED on the breadboard and it works.
Brightness of the LEDs are controlled by R9, R10, R11.. 500 something ohm on the PCB, 1k ohm on the breadboard. 1K seems bright enough, will swap the 500's for 1k.
Other than that, it looks like they missed the diode... Not really important in this situation. Looking forward to testing it.
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The RJ45 connectors came in.
The board works. Going to move it behind the diffuser and run it for a while (days?) to see how it goes. If all goes well, will make the right side next.
:cool_thumb_up:
Here is a short video showing 2 of them working (same address)...
https://youtu.be/HBe9fM726UM
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Well done, they look great.
Thanks for sharing,
Wayne
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Thank you!
Right side is done. Will send it off soon to be made..
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A couple of things......
1) I noticed kapton tape on the dip switches. It looks like that is used to shield the heat from the soldering process. Using this technique, the LEDs could probably be replaced if anyone wants to try. Put some kapton tape on the top of the new LEDs in an effort to help stop the heat from damaging them. I tested this on 3 LEDs so far...
2) The LEDs are RGB LEDs. I am going out on a limb on saying this, but I am pretty sure ANY 5050 RGB LED will work as long as the leads for the anodes are on one side and the leads for the cathodes are on the other side. The order of the colors matter too. I think Red comes first (pins 1 and 6), then Green (pins 2 and 5), then Blue (pins 3 and 4)
If you mess up your board, let me know. :)
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Nice work, I admire your dedication to the project.
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A couple of things......
1) I noticed kapton tape on the dip switches. It looks like that is used to shield the heat from the soldering process. Using this technique, the LEDs could probably be replaced if anyone wants to try. Put some kapton tape on the top of the new LEDs in an effort to help stop the heat from damaging them. I tested this on 3 LEDs so far...
2) The LEDs are RGB LEDs. I am going out on a limb on saying this, but I am pretty sure ANY 5050 RGB LED will work as long as the leads for the anodes are on one side and the leads for the cathodes are on the other side. The order of the colors matter too. I think Red comes first (pins 1 and 6), then Green (pins 2 and 5), then Blue (pins 3 and 4)
If you mess up your board, let me know. :)
Hi Eddiie. Curious if you have looked at the lighting that is inside the BB3 toppers, as they seem to be the same basic configuration as the BB2E lighting you've been working on? I am looking at wiring a bb3 topper to the BB2e emotive light engine, and so far appears that the biggest difference is that they aren't using the RJ45 type of connections...but as I am just starting down this path I haven't been able to verify chip versions etc yet... parts are on the way. Did you look at this by chance?
thanks!
Steve
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No, I did not spend any time on the topper.
It has been a minute...
The light 'bars', the emotive lights, they have dip switches on them to set their address. The topper must have an address as well. On the BB3 emotive controller they have a port for the topper, don't they? I am not sure if it is a dedicated port for it, or if it is a pass-thru port like they are on the BB2 controller.
The twisted pairs in the network cables, it helps with the data and power coming from the controller in the same cable or close together. Try to maintain that for best results.
Good luck!