New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: RollingThunder on October 06, 2022, 05:46:08 PM
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just picked up my first slot machine, guy i bought it from said its bin sitting unused in his basement for 20+ years so thought i might try and get it working. spent a week so far cleaning it all the old grease had turned to glue. got it cleaned up, new power cord plugged it in put a quarter in and nothing.
1st thing the coin reject coil think thats what its called buzzes loud nonstop
2nd coin does make it into the hopper but doesnt register guess thats why the handle doesnt unlock
3rd thing is if unlock the handle manually and pull it the reels spin but they spin slowly, maybe only go around 1 -1 1/2 times thought the cleaning would help but its about the same
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Coin relay bottom left of the reels chassis needs attention.
Put in the latched position then insert a coin or activate the coin switch.
It should release and the handle should pull. If not, contacts cleaned and or adjustment is needed.
Regarding the slow reels.
Below the reels. All the shafts, bushings and control / activation arms should move freely on the shafts.
Easy to check the larger bushings on the rear main shaft. Located back button of the reels mechanism.
This will give an indication on how gummed up the shafts are.
All ratchet wheels should spin freely.
Posting photos can help to diagnosis problems.
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coin realy?
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everthing is clean oiled and moves freely
are those the ratchet wheels your taking about they are a bit sticky when i took them off i kind forgot the order they went back together.
i have the wave washer washer and e clip all on the one side is that right ?
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also is there a piece missing here
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Yes, the coin relay looks like it might need adjustment. See photo attached.
All open contacts should be closed when the latch arm is pushed to the left and latches.
Re, ratchet wheels. If the arm engages and pushes the wheel is on right.
Will double check on the suspected missing part.
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also is there a piece missing here
yes and no.
the bracket with the peg sticking out holding the rubber bumper is a newer part that was on machines after around 1974 and was available in a retrofit kit along with the rest of the pieces for the "trip lever safety unit". It's basically your piece, a ratchet and a couple springs that prevent the handle from going back up until the reels have kicked off. It's designed to prevent reel manipulation by fiddling with the handle.
the 873 did not have the safety unit pieces originally and they aren't needed for the game to function correctly.
some other springs also change around 1974 ... like the torsion spring on the right half-gear changed to an extension spring
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cleaned all contacts and made sure all switches open and close properly. no change
the 25 cent light is on but the insert coin lights are not read. think i read somewhere they need to be on to accept coin
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the 25c light is general illimination - it's always on.
the insert coin light should only go off when the game is paying (payout relay powered), the line unit in the top compartment is stepped up all the way (5 coins played) or the reels are spinning (reel mech C-2 switch opens).
is your game stuck on 5 coins played and not resetting when the coin switch is activated?
I have the paperwork for the 873-K, but it'll take a few days to get is processed and posted. In the meanwhile, the paperwork for the 873-C will be close enough. You can find that on https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/
the manual with exploded parts diagrams for the 873's is the 400 supplement. That's in bally_manuals/ folder on above site.
slow reel spin may also be the L-shaped stop bracket on the bottom/back of the right side of the reel mech. If it's too far back, the reels will kick early. Generally the back edge of the bracket lines up with the edge of the frame or is slightly forward of the edge.
however, if the stop bracket is too far forward, the handle can bottom out before the kick and will be stuck down ... then you need to release it. Referring to the diagram on page 8 of the 400 manual, one way to deal with the handle stuck down is make the game kick. Do that by poking back the bottom of the latch pawl "O" so it pivots enough to release the trip lever. There's a video on windup and kit at https://bingo.cdyn.com/slots/videos/Windup_and_Kick.m4v
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all right heres todays update starting to show signs of life
the service button switch was all cracked and broken some of the metal inside were fall out maybe causing a problem.
the wire plugs in the door were loose if jiggled stuff would turn on and off, bent some of the pins a bit to try and get a better connection seems better.
got insert coin light on now and have 53v on the blue yellow coin switch wire flicked coin switch and realys click and handle unlock :applause:
hit the coin switch again steps up to 2nd coin line try again nothing coin switch shorted out
now touching the blue-yellow to the orange-green to bypass broken coin switch seems to step up to 5 coins but never resets after handle pull
sometime wont go past one coin unplug it, plug it back it goes up to 5 coins but never resets
should i have 53v on the blue-yellow coin switch, why it blow, where do u guys order switches from ?
where should i be looking next?
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Seems a coil is being activated until the machine looses power.
Odds step up contacts might need adjustment.
Possibly at the end of coin 5 a set of contacts don’t open.
Thus cutting power to allow the machine to reset.
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now touching the blue-yellow to the orange-green to bypass broken coin switch seems to step up to 5 coins but never resets after handle pull
the yellow wire on the coin switch is the common wire. When the coin switch tripwire is up, yellow (30) connects to orange/green (74-1). When the coin switch is down, yellow connects to blue/yellow (23-1).
connecting 74-1 to 23-1 would be flaky since you'd be making a path back to wire 30 thru multiple coils in series.
before doing anything tho, test you coin switch. Stick one meter probe on wire orange wire 70 on any handy 50V coil ... like on the coin diverter. Other meter probe on 74-1. Got 50VAC? If yes, 1/2 the coin switch is good. Move meter probe from 74-1 to 23-1 and hold down trip wire ... if you have 50V, the coin switch is good.
usually the coin switch fails when tripwire is down. If that happened, some coin switch bodies are screwed together, some are clipped and can be opened, and some are solvent welded and can't.
If you can open it, clean the contacts and it'll probably work for a bunch more years. If you can't open it, remove it and dunk it in an isopropyl alcohol bath or squirt something like mass airflow sensor cleaner into the case in any crack you find. Shake the switch a lot and leave it a while for the solvent to evaporate out, then test the switch with an ohmeter to see if it's working ok.
the pinball parts suppliers have three terminal coin switches ... the trick is getting one that mounts correctly and has the tripwire rotating the right way. The bally part number is E-108- 92A ... this one should work:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/E-108-92 (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/E-108-92)
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Finall got it going, Readjusted the cam lobe inside the coin switch and cleaned and adjusted all leaf switches today and it works like it’s supposed too. :thank_you: