New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: danatlvc on February 11, 2015, 01:41:19 PM
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I have this dual progressive bally machine that is working & running perfect. I picked it up not running with both progressives at zero. The guy that I got it from had just changed the board battery. When I finally got it to play both progressives moved to 1c with the arrow staying at each progressive for a very long time until moving to 1c & then the arrow moved to the second progressive eventually moving to 1c. Right at that time I learned how to set the progressive here on NLG. Now setup the arrows move with each coin in like they should, but the progressive never progresses. I replaced the ribbon cable with a new one & still the same. I have them set at $9000 & then starting progressives set at $1000 each. I have it set at 16% & then set at $1 as the machine is $1. I turn the machine off & on to set & both come up at $1000, but they never move. I've tried all numbers at 9s & both starting at $1000 & several other ways & nothing still/ When I press the hopper button to get to 8 to set it, is it possible 1 thru 7 before progressive setup is a way to turn on the progressive or is it a board issue. All of the boards & traces look good & the progressives makes a very light ticking noise like a clock. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan
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Your bottom pic is a sound board. Just so it's not confused with the progressive parts.
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I copied this from a post from NLG member MarkInAZ
see what the problem is. The Current Lower Amount is the exact same thing you have for the Jackpot Maximum.
Go back into the programming, make 3101 a lower number and/or 2801 larger.
Here is what the meters mean.
27 00110 = Coin denomination & % contribution. Yours is set to penny @ 10%
28 005000 = Jackpot Max $5,000
29 000020 = Jackpot reset amount $20
30 000020 = Current upper display $20
31 005000 = Current lower display $5,000
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Check this thread out on the old site. http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=6260.25 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=6260.25)
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I must be missing something setting it up? I've tried many ways with 2801 & 2901 always set higher then 3001 & 3101
2801 - 15000
2901 - 15000
3001 - 1000
3101 - 1000
16%
$1
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I did a battery disconnect to clear the meters & programmed progressives & still no movement?
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Try settings
2801= 15,000
2901= 1,000
3001= 1,000
3101= 7,000
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The chips to pull out to do a clear, are part number 5101's. I copied this from old site -
I figured it may have been a memory glitch, so I pulled out the 5101's [/size]for a few minutes and put them back in.Powered up the game and the display blanked itself out. It's working again.So if your 7 seg mechanical display is being weird, try clearing the memorybefore you put parts toward it, worked for me.Now I'm back to where I was at step one, error 803101 (see top of post) Wellthe last time I got it going, I was messing with different test modes & the keyswitches on the side. It got me into some kind of programing mode where ifI pushed one of the two red switches on the feature panel/progressive display, it wouldchange the upper or lower display values. Once I did this, the slot worked normally.So I'm guessing that the 803101 error was maybe telling me I had to setthe jackpot/progressive payout before the slot would be operational. I really didn't know what I was doing or what I programed the progressive for,but it works fine. For every 4 coins I put in, the lower display increments one cent, and for every x coins the upper display increments one cent. (still gotta figure that out)[/color]
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The programming copied from old site -
I've been there... My E-2344 has a progressive too. Sorry for not seeing this and posting sooner. I never did find this info documented anywhere. So here is what took me months to dig up by word of mouth. The 802801 in the LED display indicates the Progressive Max value for programming. If the machine is coming up in this state (never happen to me) I'd assume the same - it wants you to set it. To manually enter the progressive programming try this: 1- Unlock & open the machine door & remove the top glass2- Lock the door while in the opened position to activate the lock switch3- Push and hold both feature switches4- Now enter test-8 & continue to hold the feature buttons until the progressive arrow lamps light.5- Release both feature buttons. You are in the progressive programming mode now. The LED display should read 802801. The "80" means test 8. The 2801 indicates the progressive maximum value. 6- Should be able to unlock the door and close it for the remainder of the programming.7- Use the two feature buttons to advance the digit to the left and then increase the numbers in the progressive display.8- Turn the Reset key to advance to the next programming variable.2801= Max progressive value2901= Min progressive value after a jackpot3001= Upper current value3101= Lower current value9- Program the progression percentage and coin value next. Set the percentage from 1% up to 16 %. LED will show "80 1%" Set the coin value to your machines value (or whatever you want) LED will show "80 .10" for a dime for example.If you made a mistake keep turning the reset key to come around again to the parameter you want to fix.10- Replace the glass, lock the door closed, the machine is ready to go, the LED displaying "50.000"If you have trouble start by making sure your two feature switches and the reset key switch are good. Go into Test 3 to confirm proper operation. You should see the LED display change every time you open and close a switch. (just like the test procedure in the E2000 manual says, which we all have ) Another good tool is Test-2. As the lights cycle through and the LED display show the bit addresses, numbers 1502, & 1504 should be displayed and make your two progressive arrows lamp light. If you don't see the 1500 series addresses at all then you may not have the correct game E proms for the progressive.Lastly, to check your progressive programming you can use the Maintenance Meters procedure, similar to the book keeping meters. Meter 26 & above relates to the progressive programming (at least on my machine).So there you go.Cheers,Mark
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h yes, I see where its getting confusing. The max & min progressive values pertain to BOTH the upper AND lower displays. The Upper Current value only pertain to the actually upper display and the Lower Current value is only for the lower display.[/size]Does that make more sense?For example:I want my absolute maximum win (both top & bottom displays) to be $500,000.00 So at 802801 make the display read $5000,000.00 (just like you did)I want the jackpot (both upper or lower) to reset after a win to $2,000.00. So at 802901 make the display read $2000.00 (just like you did)I want my top display to read $2,000.00 right now when I close the door. So at 803001 make the display read $2,000.00 (just like you did)I want the lower display to read $4,500.00 right now when I close the door. So at 803101 make the display read $4,500.00 (NOT like you did) [/color]
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Thanks for your help. I tried the settings at the numbers given with no luck. If I pull those chips do I have to program anything besides the progressives? The machine works great &as of now except progressive. I'm unable to download a manual here for some reason? I'm a contributing member to access, but when I download it if fails every time?
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No , just the progressive will need programmed
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I had a feeling I shouldn't of done that because it was working excellent aside progressive not moving & I was correct. After removing the chips & putting them back in it tilted when I powered it up. I cleared the tilt & tried to set the progressive. It wouldn't let me set 3101 for some reason. I pulled the battery to clear progressives to zero & then programmed them. Turned it on & I started to play. I hit a cherry & it paid out & I couldn't play anymore/not registering coins in at the cherry switch. I checked the fuses & the hopper fuse was blown. Now every time I turn on the machine it blows the hopper fuse instantly & the progressive set is gone & at zero first digit only. I can see the hopper brake moving down as the fuse blows upon powering up? I have major hours in restoring this piece & I knew better then to mess with the board chips aside the game set software. The hopper was never touched & all pins on the chips & ribbon plugs are all fine. I also never even removed the board when I removed & installed the chips etc. :banghead: :hissyfit: :no: DO NOT remove the the 5101 chips is my recommendation to all reading unless it's your last resort to a non working machine. This machine worked just perfect before doing this with no issues at all
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If it was paying out , then the hopper fuse has blown, is it possible the hopper is jammed? It did not finish paying out due to a jam? Make sure there is no coins down in behind the hopper board. I'm assuming the chips were double checked and are in the proper direction ? If you could not set 3101 then maybe the value you are trying to enter is not correct and it will not accept it?
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Here's a video for programming the progressive https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xu2cYQlcB8&list=FLM9XPK3Jq9PzUaBqNuYAXjQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xu2cYQlcB8&list=FLM9XPK3Jq9PzUaBqNuYAXjQ)
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UPDATE
If I leave the hopper fuse out now I can program the progressive after unplugging the battery to clear. Then after powering on & off to set I can play it until I hit something. Then I have to go into the progressive program cycle through & shut on & off to reset it to play after the pay the hopper was unable to pay without a fuse? If I put a fuse in the hopper it blows with a flash instantly when I power up. I've been fooling with it so long today I can't remember if it paid out the cherry or not or it happened when it went to initiate the payout? This issue did happen when I hit the first pay & was a cherry I know for sure & I also heard the light dong of the coin diverter discharge & going limp in the door. I've made some steps since the crash, but the hopper is a major issue & I don't know where to begin with that? What is this small fuse type box behind the hopper pictured here, as there was one coin laying there when I pulled the hopper to inspect. It's a long shot, but I have to start somewhere? Thanks
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Turn the power off. Take the hopper out and look down inside where the hopper board is mounted. Look at both sides. Coins can fall in there and cause fuses to blow. Pour out all the coins, Then press and hold the brake lever to release the brake. Then spin the pinwheel by hand. If it turns freely 3 or 4 revolutions then it's not jammed. Hopper board may have failed. Not sure why but take a look for pinched wires or something out of place.
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That is a Delay relay , the blue cube next to the hopper plug. I would inspect your hopper board and hoppers mechanical condition for problems.
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Get us a picture of your hopper board.. Bally had two different type, E1000 & E2000.. It sould like you could have a cracked ceramic diode, or the Mac-16 400v Triac has failed.
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It's an E2000. There were no coins stuck where the hopper board is & it also turns freely when the brake is held down. There were very few coins in the hopper when this happened, but there was a coin laying against the Delay Relay in an oddly position & possibly touching the lower prongs coming down under it, but I can't say for sure. I was just shocked to even find a coin there because if I hear a coin go anywhere aside hopper I stop turn the machine off & remove it. It's possible that coin on a long shot ended up there in the few plays I did after removing the 1501s. The Delay Relay looks good on the outside looking through the plastic, but possible it got shorted from the coin? Would that cause the fuse blow? Where could I find a Delay Relay & or a hopper board reasonably to purchase & try? These machine are not worth a whole lot, so I have to be careful. Thanks
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It's possible the coin shorted the circuit and caused the hopper board to fail. It's possible the coin caused the relay to weld a set of contacts together and causing the fuse to blow , you can take the blue cover off the relay and inspect the contacts condition and se if they open and close properly, but I'm not sure as to the wiring to the relay and how it is connected in the hopper board circuit. Could be chance the board is 33 years old and happen to fail. It is common with hopper boards. You can test and replace the diodes and triacs yourself, or send it to dhellis for repair, or get a new one from foxsslots on Ebay.
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Diode's CR11 & CR12 commonly fail. The Q1, Q2, & Q3 fail also. Those parts are the workhorse on the board. Here's the board on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLY-SLOT-MACHINE-E2000-V2000-HOPPER-CONTROL-BOARD-/150619541405?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23119fcf9d (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLY-SLOT-MACHINE-E2000-V2000-HOPPER-CONTROL-BOARD-/150619541405?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23119fcf9d) The Blue relays are very robust, but it should be inspected for internal damage being there was a coin nearby and questionable.
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UPDATE:
I had to leave that machine alone for a few days before I could go back to working on it. When I get really frustrated I get nothing done & don't think clear.
I now have the machine working good again with the exception that the hopper blows it's fuse on every power up. I can sit there & play it now with no fuse until I hit something then I push the test button & continue playing.
I've ordered a hopper board from Barry & have my fingers crossed it will fix the fuse issue for the hopper to work. I also pulled the cover of the Delay Relay & it looks good & the contacts manual open, so I assume it's good.
I also have the sound working now & it makes sound for inserted coins & on pays, but no sound when the reels spin? Is this dip switch settings or the way the chip or sound board is set? It also makes a screech phone type noise every few minutes when it's not played for a while that I'd really like to turn off if possible? Any suggestions
Thanks
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I did notice that your hopper board had been repaired before at CR11 & CR12 & Q13. Those are the common problems. I would unplug your hopper board but plug your hopper in to see if it sill blows the fuse. That way you have taken the board out of the loop. If the fuse doesn't blow with the board disconnected and the hopper plugged in, then you know it's the board.
Gary
PM Sent..
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Thanks for the great advice Gary :hail:
I did as you said & it didn't blow the fuse :applause:
I'm really looking forward for the board to arrive now :dancing_2:
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For the sound option , only thing I remember is there is an attract feature that can be turned on or off with the DIP switch setting. There should be a sticker next to the MPU that has info for each DIP switch setting. As far as the reel sound , try adjusting the sound pot on the Sound board. The sound fades when the pot oxidizes from age. Rotate the pot 1/2 turn back an forth to get a good connection and then set the volume. Is the progressive working?
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No, the progressive is still not progressing. For now I just want the machine up & running again
Thanks,
Dan
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I had one machine I never could get the sound to work correctly. It would make noise when coined up and on wins, but did the same screeching noise when the reel would spin? I sent my boards out to be tested on a different Bally that had sound, and the worked fine for them?? I finally have up and pulled the sould parts out. If it was a dip switch setting I never found it? Do you have the sml daughter board connected to your IO where the ribbon cable is attached, or are you plug right into the IO?
Gary
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No daughter board & the sound board ribbon plugs directly onto the I/O. It doesn't make any sound when the reels spin, just coin in & on wins. The screech alarm noise comes on every few minutes like to entice you to play. It makes the noise for a second 2 or 3 times consecutive & then it won't do it again for a few more minutes if not played. If your playing it never makes that noise. I'd like to turn that one off so I can leave the machine on in my game room
The sticker next to the board does not address Dip Switch 3 thru 6, so maybe these are possibly for sound options? Anyone know or how are yours set? On my Dip Switch only 2 & 8 are On & the rest Off
Thanks,
Dan
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Yes that is the attract feature that is making noise when it's idle. I will look at my machine tonight and try to find the attract feature setting on the DIP switch.
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I think you asked about a clear chip? Barry has them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLY-SLOT-MACHINE-RAM-CLEAR-CHIP-/350098974229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5183866615 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLY-SLOT-MACHINE-RAM-CLEAR-CHIP-/350098974229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5183866615)
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On the MPU board, it is dip switch #4. Turn this off and it will never play attract sounds.
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Thanks for checking for me
I think maybe my dip switches don't all function. I turned 4 off with no change to feature. Then turned 3 thru 7 off & it still does the attract phone ring screech feature? The only thing that did change is when you insert coins the upper lights for each coin flash instead of mobile is all? I think it was 5 or 6
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The attract feature on mine is two different melodies that play during attract feature. Now when the door is open for a length of time it makes screeching annoying noises. Have you checked your door hinge switch? Is the switch working properly? Wired properly? Does the candle go off when the door closes? Candle comes on when door is opened? Just want to be sure the door alarm is not confused with the game play melodies. here is a youtube of a E2000 working correctly .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhbMkwXxGWg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhbMkwXxGWg)
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I'm wondering if you could be in need of the small daughter board that attaches to the IO first, then your ribbon cable attaches to the daughter board. The only other thing I can't think of is that you have a problem with your EPROM in P1? Like I said I never got mine working..
Tim... Does your sound machine have the daughter board I'm talking about? See pics..
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I'm now thinking it's the door doing the screech noise thanks to you guys.
This cabinet has never had a candle installed, so I can't go by the light. When I finally got it running after purchase the sound was unplugged & also the volume was turned all the way off at the pot. It looks like the door switch is not hooked up? I plugged the one wire to the bottom of the switch & taped plunger down it & it still does the 2 or 3 minute screech. Does that wire go on the prong behind the switch possibly, it would be a tight fit though? When the sound was off I just assumed the door was bypassed because the lock bar doesn't reach the plunger to push it down & the machine played with the door opened or shut? There's also one wire with electrical tape at the end seen in pic that I don't think applies, but maybe?? I'm also going to check the lines on the ribbon today
Thanks,
Dan
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I'm not at my machine right now, is there two wires only going to that switch? If so, hook them together. You do not need that switch for home use. Now there is another switch behind the the lower door hinge and mounted to the side of the cabinet. It has to be activated when the door is closed. With the power off if you close the door slowly and listen carefully you can here the switch click. If it does not click you may have to loosen the screws and adjust it closer to the hinge. The wires have to be connected to the switch properly. Post a pic of the hinge switch.
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I alway remove that door lock switch. Put the two wire together and its bypassed. The easiest way to know if you lower door hinge switch is working is... Does the test programs quit running and show a door code 50000 in the win meter when you close the door?
Gary
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Well when I went to connect the 2 wires for the door switch by removing the switch I found a broken wire to the back switch connection. I then connect the 2 wires with no change on the screech. I was testing this with the door open because I had connected the wires for the door to be closed? Then I remembered Tim said to close the door & listen for a click & I heard nothing & looked for another switch with non found Tim said to close the door. So I closed the door & went out of the room & never heard the screech? I thought AWESOME we fixed it. I then thought I'd put a few coins in to see when I stopped if the screech alarm would come back & it didn't. I LOOKED UP & BOTH PROGRESSIVES HAD PROGRESSED :dancing_2: :applause: :dancing_2: The damn thing wasn't progressing because the door was opened :24: :lol: :Crazy:
:hail: THANKS A MILLION GUYS FOR ALL YOUR HELP :hail:
Now I'm counting the days for the hopper board to arrive, so I can play it & see the progressives move :rotfl: .
What are the odds that the hopper board went out right exactly after the RAM clear removing the 1501s? Bad Luck it was, BUT the machine was screwy for a good while after & took a long while unplugging the battery a few times to get it working again :Scratch-Head:
It also now plays the music melody with dip switch 4 on with the door shut when not played for a while :applause: So dip 4 is attract melody & dip 6 is for blinking coin in lights. I wonder what 3 & 5 do? I turn them off & on don't notice any change, but I only spin it a few times until I get the hopper going with the new board
This is my first E2000 & I would of never guessed that the machine would play with the door open :Scratch-Head: Live I learn I do
:thank_you: :thank_you: :thank_you:
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Yea the Bally E-Series slot can only be played with the door closed unless it's in test 8. Is good to hear your almost finished!!
Gary
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I have not checked this on my machine, but Dip switch #5 is for the attract feature for the lights on the top award glass and reel glass. The lights are to blink a pattern when the melody plays at idle/attract mode. Make sure your hopper fuse is AGC 5 amp.
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The new hopper board came in & the machine now works perfect including the progressive. This machine had no sound with the reels spinning with me trying dip switch #3 thru #6. I finally discovered dip switch #1 turns the reel spin sound on which was nice surprise
Thank You All & Appreciate
Dan
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That's interesting the dip switch 1 worked for the sound.. It usually controls the bell for jackpots and coins sometimes the ding you hear for each coin played.
So glad to hear it's now at 100%.. I'm going to make some notes for my repair log on your sound finds. You should make a short video of it working.. Dan, let me know about that old board per my PM..
Gary
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I had all sounds except the reels spinning on the progressive machine. I picked up another E2000 machine for parts yesterday & got it working & it had the reel spin sounds. I swapped the sound boards & both the machines stayed the same with their sounds. I looked at the dip switch settings on the machine just in & #1 #2 #7 #8 were on, so I did the same on the progressive machine & got the reel sounds on the progressive machine :applause: . I then turned #7 off both because the sticker says it's supposedly not used to see if you needed both #1 & #7 on for the reel sounds & both kept their reel sounds with just #1
Thanks to All here it's working 100% with full sounds & both progressives working
Thank You,
Dan
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That's good information to have. The machine I had about a year ago didn't have any information on the dip switches.