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**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: Dbeeson on March 21, 2015, 05:05:48 PM
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Hello everyone,
I'm thrilled to have found this site. I have no experience with slot machines but I'm competent in mechanical systems and have basic/intermediate electronic skills. I have also repaired many pinball machines.
I was at the Ohio Pinball Show over the weekend and picked up a non working (but complete) Bally slot machine to perhaps tinker with. Thinking the resources for slot machines were comparable to pinball machines, I thought I'd be able to find the manual and a lot of information online to get me started. I'm finding this a little more difficult than expected.
So I guess I should start by asking what model my slot machine is? From the limited information I gather, it is an E series. Is there manuals available for them?
The next question is where to start looking. When I plug the machine in, everything lights up but the win meter lcd display shows …..6 and nothing shows on the credit meter display. Obviously this means the machine is not booting up. I thought the first thing I'd look at was the battery on the main board and removing it. Knowing from pinball machines and bally boards specifically (that have those long white cylindrical NiMH type) it's best to cut off the battery before it starts leaking acid and ruining the circuit board. So I've done so. But nothing has changed. Is the battery necessary for operation?
Any help to get me started would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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:NLG_WELCOME:
Hi and Welcome to you new addiction.
You have what looks like a E2000 slot machine
with the credit feature. If you look on the right side
below the handle there is a ID plate.
Post pictures of the machine front and with the
door open for more info.
Code 6 is the "Memory Test Failure"
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Welcome,
Proten is correct that the 6 error is usually related to being a memory error. Like the pinball machines
the Bally E-series uses the 5101 Ram chips. I would start by checking the power supply voltages simply
because it is easier to make sure that you have the proper voltages before jumping off to something
more difficult.
As far as the battery is concerned, most machines have little or no real use for the home user. The battery
is used to maintain accounting data in ram which is important for casinos and regulatory commissions.
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With your background in pinball repair I think you'll take to slot machine repair just fine, just ask any questions here on NLG and the helpful folks will get you going and up to speed in no time.
Bally made many different slot machine models over the years. Here is a manual for the Bally E-2000 models, hopefully it will be the right one for your machine. If it isn't the exact manual it will still contain helpful info.
Welcome and good to see you here! We like pictures, so don't hesitate to post more pictures of the machine, especially the insides showing mechanical assemblies, circuit boards, power supplies, coin hopper, etc. We never get tired of photos.
From looking at the lower glass your machine spent some time at sea on a cruise ship.
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Thanks so much guys! I've attached a couple of pics with the door open, and one with the wheels removed.
I'm not really sure what voltages I should be seeing where. I don't have a schematic. Do you guys know where to find one?
I may have a 5101 chip kicking around on an old bally pinball board.
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I spoke too soon! rokgpsman, thank you very much! I'll review it and see what I can find.
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I edited my previous message to include a manual, look on page 58 and a few pages before and after for wiring diagrams and power supply info. (hopefully it is the right manual)
As the other guys mentioned, if you can positively id it by the idplate that is really helpful to the experts here. There is often a metal plate on the same side as the pull handle, or maybe inside the lower part of cabinet. A picture of it is good to show us.
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yeah Premiere Cruise Lines. The ONLY place it says bally on the entire game is the coil just inside the door. There's no info plate below the crank…well there is but it's blank
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I'll dig for that plate, but I really couldn't see one before.
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Here's one of your photos with some notes on it, but I'm no Bally expert so I'll let the other guys give you specific info and correct anything I say or put in the photo notes.
Sometimes there are tags or stickers inside the machine that gives more clues about the model number and manufacturer, so as you examine it closer you may something like that. But some of these guys can id it based on looks alone.
It looks like the hopper has been removed, did you get it like that, or take out the coin hopper for the photos?
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I just had a look at the malfunction codes in the manual. code 6 should be followed by another number to indicate which memory chip is bad. Mine just stays on 6. In pinball land, that usually means the MPU has some bigger problems. The manual also says that test #1-5 happens so fast the eye can't see it…but part of me thinks it just says 6 off the bat and stays there. That's very typical of Williams late solid state ('84-'89) boot up procedure (or lack thereof)
This is all speculation as I read. I'm gonna have to pull the meter out and test the voltages. The game should still boot up if the reels are out of the machine right?
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that connector you circled is for the reels. I took the reels out to take a picture of the circuit boards. The hopper is down below and intact.
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that connector you circled is for the reels. I took the reels out to take a picture of the circuit boards. The hopper is down below and intact.
my mistake, I lightened your photo and then I saw the hopper. I also edited my notes about the connector in the photo so it won't cause a problem for someone else.
Does it look like that manual covers your machine?
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yes indeed! I believe that is the correct manual, the only difference is that there are more buttons on the front of mine…maybe that's the "2000" series?
Thanks again for all the help, very much appreciated.
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It is an E2000, as mentioned earlier. E2000 is the only E machine with the credit feature. What extra buttons do you have? Maybe the pic in the manual is of the E1000. Mechanically, they are nearly identical (exception being the reel reader boards and the credit feature, if applicable, not all E2000s have credit feature).
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Do the eprom labels on the mpu board say anything meaningful? Usually on getting a machine new to you it is a good idea to verify power supply voltages and check the battery on the mpu board for leakage and it's voltage state. On some machines the battery is just for non-essential record keeping (important to the casino but not important private use) but on other machines the battery is critical for the game to even play correctly. The battery used is typically a BR2330 3 volt coin type, or a 3.6 volt barrel type.
Sorry, but I'm not familiar with the boot-up process, so don't know if the reels have to be installed or not. But there are plenty of Bally folks here. (might take a little while for them to log in and make comments, they could be watching the NCAA tournament games, some may even have a wager or two on a game).
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Extra buttons on the chrome part: change, blank, play 1 or more credits and play maximum credits
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While the E1000 and E2000 machines typically use different MPU boards and different reel reader boards
they also have different hopper boards. However, it is not unusual to find E1000 boards inside of an
E2000 machine.
Your machine has an E2000 MPU but is using E1000 reel readers. The E2000 reel readers operate on 5 volts
while the E1000 board operates on 50 volts. You can easily see the differences by looking for the large 2 watt
resistor on the reel reader board, since your boards have these then that means that they are the older
E1000 boards.
Bally used these older boards on the E2000 machines until stock was depleted before switching to the
5 volt boards. You will also find many E2000 machines that have the older E1000 MPU boards installed.
Hopper boards from either machine can be used in either machine. The E1000 board is much smaller than
the one used in the E2000 so if you have a hopper board for an E1000 machine and want to use it in an
E2000 machine, move the wire, move the wire at pin 8 to pin 9.
To use an E2000 board on an E1000 machine then move the wire in pin 9 to pin 8
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I would first start by checking the voltages on your power supply. There are three different voltages, 5v, 7.5v, and 10v. Those power supply plugs tend to get bad connections. Check for any burnt wires on the plug. I have also found pin header solder joint develop cracks due to heat cycles. I recently had a E1000 giving me a code 6, and mine was caused by a bad power supply. Once I changed it out my problem went away. I have also seen that removing and reseating the ram chips that the problem can also be solved. The sockets Bally used were junk. They only make a connection on one side of the leg. I've replaced a hand full of those old chip socket to fix different problems. Good luck..
Gary
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Well well... Look at what we found here. Just like a pinball machine (and early ballys at that!) burnt connectors are the culprit. Give it a wiggle and she boots right up! Luckily I have all the molex parts to replace it. I'll get that done and take some pics for you guys. Hopefully that's all of the problems for now. Thanks again for all of your help and information on the machine guys.
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Amechanic, where were you 20 minutes ago?! lol, I'm only teasing. You're bang on though. I'll be replacing those connectors now!
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That is one of the reasons I tell people to start with the power supply first. Glad you found the problem
and now you are HOOKED !!! :wave:
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Typical Bally edge connectors :banghead: All the connections only make contact on one side of the plugs or sockets.. Same problem with the Bally Pinball Machine power supply's.. I had to do some rewiring in a Bally Paragon I picked up last year. The power plugs were melted on that thing.. I brought home a Bally E2000 last fall that the power that the power supply plug was held on with duct tape, it was that badly melted.. It's usually the first thing I check.. Glad to be of help....
Gary
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Ok, seems to be booting up fine now but it won't register my tokens. Someone has put a token mech in it and the tokens definitely trip the switch at the bottom, since I've tested it while the door was open. The wiring for the original electronic mech has been hacked up. Any ideas?
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Hope you don't mind, I lightened your photos so I could see details better. Probably a silly question, but did you try dropping the tokens in with the door shut? Some slot machines will not play normally with the door open, security thing. This machine is like that. It needs to power up and not have any tilts (fault codes), then dropping a coin in should register. If you want it to play with the door open you can set the mpu board dipswitch #8 to opposite position (page 24 in manual).
Seems like that wiring from the coin mech switch should go back to the I/O or MPU for sensing of the coin input. Do you see any other cut or disconnected cables from the wiring coming out of the main cabinet to the door? Someone here should be able to post a picture of the door area on another E2000 (or E1000) to show you what it normally looks like in the coin mech area.
I have to go for now, others will check in when they can. Some of us seniors need our sack time. :garfield:
Here's another discussion about a similar machine and it has a photo of the coin comparitor normally found in these machines. (a coin comparitor is an electrical version of the old coin mech):
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=2354.msg18843#msg18843 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=2354.msg18843#msg18843)
There are other discussions about the E2000 in this forum with plenty of good info (Bally Reel Games).
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Rokgpsman, thanks for the reply. I did put a token in with the door closed and locked. Does this picture seem normal to you or is it an error code? That's what the screen boots to.
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From reading part of the manual I think that digital display is used for a variety of reasons. During normal game play the rightmost 3 or 4 digits will show how many coins were paid out in the last recorded hit. During selftest the test step numbers are displayed along with any fault codes.
I think the "50" indicates a door open code, meaning the door has been opened and the event was recorded, not that the door is currently open. The 3 or 4 rightmost digits represent how many coins were paid out in the last game recorded in memory and is just done as a feature of the game. The manual mentioned that a fault code can flash alternatively with the coins paid part of the display. There is more info on page 18 in manual, plus a few pages before and after.
The machine software does a quick selftest when it powers up. There is also a more elaborate selftest you can run manually to check several things. There is a test switch and test reset switch near the hopper area, you could try testing or resetting it. Might be good to run the built-in selftest, instructions are on page 6.
Not sure specifically on this machine but on many slots in general when you get a tilt/fault code you sometimes have to clear the fault by turning a reset switch/reset key after shutting the door. On other machines just opening and closing the door will clear minor tilts. Does your machine have a reset switch located on the pull handle side of the machine, or a hole in the cabinet where one used to be? For security reasons the slot machines are usually made to sense (usually with a switch) when the main door has been opened, the cash box has been opened and sometimes even if the metal compartment (card cage) that holds the mpu has been opened. (the last one doesn't apply to your machine).
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Rokgpsman, thanks for the reply. I did put a token in with the door closed and locked. Does this picture seem normal to you or is it an error code? That's what the screen boots to.
You should always see a code 50000 in the meter once you close the door, that's normal. Yours has a 6 at the end, not sure why?
Question.. Are you able to play the machine once the door is closed? The 50000 will stay in the win meter until the machine in played.
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Ok something I've noticed. When I push either the reset or test button on the hopper the LCD does nothing. So perhaps it still isn't booting?
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It won't do the manual self test unless it thinks the main door is open. Can you verify that your main door switch is present, connected and works ok? See item 12 on pg 41 and item 8 on pg 43. Some machines also have a door hinge switch to monitor door openings. See item 28 on pg 60.
Both of those switches on the hopper are normally open, when pushed they send 5v or a ground signal over to the mpu to start manual tests, or reset the test.
Per Amechanic question, does the machine do anything when you shut the door and drop in a coin?
Also, do you have the reset switch and key located on the outside of the cabinet near the pull handle? See item 14 on pg 60.
Does power supply 5vdc, 7.5vdc, 10vdc look ok on power supply? They go to various places in the machine, such as the hopper, I/O and mpu. The 7.5vdc is the zero crossing signal signal that goes to mpu. See pg 58.
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I want to clear something that Amechanic stated regarding the 500000 code.
Normally with the door open you will see a 50 000 error, if you see 500000 then that would
probably be a bad cable to the IO board and with that code you will not be able to run tests.
I can not (or have not, seen) whether or not your machine has a candle light on the top of the
machine. If it has the candle and the door is open then the white light should be on. If the light
is on then you should be able to run tests. If there is no light then check the door hinge switch
and make sure it is operating properly. If that switch is bad then you will get the 50 000 code
but will not be able to run tests.
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Sorry about not putting a space in that number.. I know what I mean but I have to remember not everyone does.
Another way to know if you lower door hinge switch is working, is that if your in a test mode like a test 2, where your checking your lights and solenoids, or 4 where your test running the hopper, once you close the door your machine should come out of testing and go to the 50 000 door code.
Gary
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Thanks for the replies. I think my issues are attributed to poor connections, whether they be sockets or molex connectors. Is there harm in plugging in reels/hopper while the machine is on?
So, sometimes I get a 50 000 and sometimes a 50 006. If it is 50 006 the reset and test buttons do nothing. If it's 50 000 I can go through tests. The game will revert to 50 006 if I plug the rear molex connector into the reel set.
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I haven't yet figured out the issues with the machine :(
It seems as though it only boots clean when I leave the game on for a period of time, and even then it does funny things. So for example, when I boot the game it just says .....6. It'll stay there. If I come back in 10-20 min later, it'll be 50 000 or 50 006. Flick the power switch and that 6 usually goes away. I can then go into test mode. But I'm not sure what to do from there.
Ok, so I'm always messing around with the reels OUT of the game, as it makes a nasty buzzing sound when I first turn it on with the reels in, AND it boots with a 6 (meaning it doesn't boot at all, can't test etc)
If I pull the rear plug out of the reels, it seems to boot ok, provided it's "warmed up" meaning it's been sitting on as mentioned above.
Now the reels themselves. I can't seem to get the gears so that the peg is anywhere near matching up with the little fork from the crank arm. They seem to be stuck somehow but I have no idea how to free them. I've attached a pic of the side of the reel unit, you can see that the peg is too low, but none of those gears move. Ugh.
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The white cylinder on the side of the reels is an air cylinder. Inside is a rubber cup that start to desolve, turns back to tar.. Remove the assembly and pull it apart, and remove what's left of the seal. Clean everything up and reassemble with a very light coating of grease on the piston and inside the cylinder. Reassemble without the cup seal. They don't make them any or and it will work fine without it..
Now for your other problem sounds so much like the E1000 I just finished working on.. I found that my power supply board had issues. I was getting all these different meter numbers. The power supply voltages seemed fine, but I had a fluctuation in the voltages.. Did you ever measure yours for correct voltage outputs.. Once I swapped out my power supply board my problem was gone.. Here is an old thread that sounds like your problem.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1949.msg14211#msg14211 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1949.msg14211#msg14211)
Gary
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Change your power supply and the connector to the power supply and your problems will resolved.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-E-Series-POWER-SUPPLY-CONNECTION-/350252825206?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item518cb1fa76 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-E-Series-POWER-SUPPLY-CONNECTION-/350252825206?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item518cb1fa76)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-Power-Supply-E1000-E2000-NEW-/171440171118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27eaa1686e (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bally-Slot-Machine-Power-Supply-E1000-E2000-NEW-/171440171118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27eaa1686e)
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Thanks guys! Can I just rebuild the supply I have? I have all the molex required for the connector, I actually repinned the burnt ones already, using trifurcon crimp pins.
I find it strange that if I wiggle or reseat the connector on the power supply, nothing changes, still dependent on warming up.
Amechanic, so that piston is seized in there eh? I'll take it apart. I feel that there's some light at the end of the tunnel with you guys around.
Also, there's a diverter that only engages sometimes (randomly on some resets) that either allows coins to fall into the hopper or through a chute that spits the coins onto the floor. I'm gonna assume this also has to do with the supply and hope for the best :cool_thumb_up:
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On these machines the old power supply and power connectors are a big part of the failures people have. Some people prefer to do a repair more quickly and eliminate the power supply as a potential problem by replacing it with a new one.
If you do rebuild the power supply I figure you will replace the old electrolytic capacitors. One of them is huge (C1) and does a lot of work so if it is bad that could be a problem. I've read that some people replace C1 with two 6,000 uF caps (or similar) since the original size C1 can be hard to find. These caps are nearly 30 years old and drying out/dried out. Same thing happens to caps in old monitors. Both C1 and C2 are filter caps and if bad you could have a lot more AC ripple on the power supply voltages than should be there. Plus, filter caps act as a storage device and keep the voltage from sagging when there is a load switched in, like reels or lights or hopper getting activated. When a filter cap is bad you can get a voltage level dipping downward, then coming back up and that can cause glitches.
On that "006" display you keep seeing, if it is an error (instead of number of coins last paid out) could that be a RAM chip (5101 ic's) problem?? Could the mpu board be halting in the power-up selftest at the memory test? If you have another 5101 you can sub in it might be something to try. Or you could remove the 5101 and power up and see if it acts differently, gives a different error code display. And like Amechanic mentioned earlier, you might just remove the 5101 ram chips and reinsert them into the socket. The ic legs and socket connectors have oxidized over the years and may be intermittent. If you continue to have intermittent operation it isn't out of the question to remove and reinsert all socketed ic's on the mpu board. Take a picture or label each chip so you are sure to get it back in the correct place. If the ic legs are dark & oxidized you could carefully clean each leg with a soft pencil eraser. Just be careful not to break a leg. And examine the old sockets, consider replacing them if nothing else gets your machine running and you think the mpu has problems.
That coin diverter is not super important. It is supposed to divert the coins so they go into a hole in the bottom of the machine and then fall into a bucket underneath in the slot machine stand when the machine senses that the coin hopper is full. On the hopper there may be a sense switch, it gets activated by the weight of coins or with a probe that fits into the hopper bowl and activates when the bowl gets full of coins. This sends a signal to cause the coin diverter to activate or deactivate. Look for a switch on the side of the hopper, or post a picture and we can point the sensing part out. If it is a weight sensing switch there will be a screw adjustment on a spring so you can set the switch sensitivity. But really the coin diverter isn't critical for home use, can be disconnected so all coins go into the hopper if you want, since you aren't likely to fill the hopper all the way up. Or you can disconnect the hopper sense switch.
Keep in mind how old the machine is and how little it has been played in recent years. You will find that there are a lot of mechanical connections that need to be working right, just like on the old pinball machines. But you'll want to make sure the basics are correct first, like power supply voltages, cable connections, socketed ic's, etc.
The tech behind the better Bally E-2000/E-1000 power supply is an active NLG member:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=3315.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=3315.0)
One of his informative E-2000 write-ups is attached.
and here is some additional E-2000 info, some is similar to what is here on NLG, be sure to read the sections entitled "Repair Tips for Power Supply" and "Can't Run Tests", both are good:
http://www.coinslots.com/tips/bally-e-series/ (http://www.coinslots.com/tips/bally-e-series/)
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The coin diverter on the E-Series will be open at the time of power up. It will close as the coil energizes after the fist time the machine is played, or after the reset buttons pushed on the hopper. I just put a paper towel in the over flow chute to keep the coins in the machine. The hopper has a limit switch on it to keep the hopper from over flowing. They are usually set to hold the max payout of your machine, any thing over that would go into the bucket kept in a hopper stand. So what's happening is normal..
Gary
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GREAT!! I get a lot of things now... Er I think? I would say that 6 is due to the power supply indeed, as I bet the AC ripple is as high as can be. I have the necessary caps and will swap them out tonight. I've reseated the ram and have done the "twist test" to test the sockets when it's hanging on 6. It's hanging on 6 because the power supply is doing funny things.
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Don't forget to make certain all of your door switches and security switches are working right. A bad one can make your mpu think the door is open (or closed) when it isn't, affecting game play, starting the manual selftest, etc. I've seen switches that would push in or release normally but the contacts inside weren't working.
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I have a 15000uf 25v kicking around, that should be ok to swap the 12000 out with right?
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I have a 15000uf 25v kicking around, that should be ok to swap the 12000 out with right?
15,000 @25 volts should be fine
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Great, it's happily booting now with the cap change.
I took the cylinder and plunger off the reels, freed the plunger (that was a task) and cleaned it up. That's all happy again too.
So I'm still stuck with the 50 on the screen, and not able to do much. I have located the switch on the door (which disengages when the door is locked) and it functions correctly, and no broken wires. I've located a switch inside the bottom hinge of the machine that also detects the door being closed. It seems to be working fine, you can hear a click and the wires are attached.
There is 2 other strange things:
The coil that allows the crank arm to be cranked is always on. I'm assuming that's only supposed to engage when the game is ready to be played and has credits?
The other weird thing is the credit meter. It's always flickering, some segments dim, others bright. Maybe the big cap on that board in the head?
Fun stuff, I'm almost there!
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I think it's section 3 of the manual explains how to use the machine to check your switches. I usually get ride of the lock switch. They are not needed and cause more problems then they are worth. Some times the lower hinge switches need to be adjusted in just a bit. If you put your machine in let's say test 2, can you exit the test by closing the door? You should be able too..
Gary
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You've made good progress. :cool_thumb_up:
This is not unusual for an older slot machine that has set unmaintained for years, you get some major problems fixed, then on to the other ones. It is work but on the bright side it gets you really familiar with your machine. Down the road you'll be thankful for this experience if something else happens, you'll be able to better know what to check.
Electrolytic caps are cheap and all of them in your machine are nearly 30 years old (except the ones you recently replaced). So it is always ok to replace one, it might fix a problem or prevent a new one. I'd put a meter on any switch I wanted to check, they can click or move like normal but still not make good contact if the metal switch inside is corroded. And like Amechanic said, a lot of slot owners bypass or remove switches that can cause headaches. The casino required a lot of the switches just for security reasons, the home owner doesn't need that. I've disconnected cash box switches, circuit board compartment switches, main door switches, etc. If the machine requires the switch to work for certain functions that is different, but the ones that just do an alarm/tilt/fault can be bypassed or disconnected.
The good news is you have a great resource with guys here like Amechanic and others (not me, I'm a noob on them) that are intimately experienced with your model machine. As long as you are willing to work on it, ask good questions and follow their advice you will come out on top. Now & then post a picture, it keeps the interest up & helps us to know your machine better.
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I was reading thru the manual for your machine and if I read it correctly if you see the decimal points lit in the main display (the 6 digit display) that means the mpu is in test mode. (I guess either the power-on test or the manual test). (if only the 2 centermost decimal points are lit it means a reset has happened recently).
Anyway, I think this means any numbers you see in the display when the decimal points are lit is a test fault code and you can consult the fault code list to see the meaning. Maybe someone can verify this about the decimal points being lit, and that normally they will not be lit. I've attached the first picture you posted, notice it has the decimal points lit. Granted, the mpu was acting up then because of power supply problems, but going forward I'd watch for decimal points to be displayed along with numbers.
Also, are you able now to open the door and use the manual test & reset pushbuttons on the hopper to run the more elaborate self-test? If not I'd be inclined to figure that out, once it is working it can be very helpful to test other parts of the machine.
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No more decimals. That was all before I rebuilt the power supply. I still get the 50 000 though. Meaning it thinks the door is open. I'm going to put a little time in on it now and see what the test mode is all about, which does work now.
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I spoke too soon. Now when I reset it there are 2 decimal points, and when the game senses the door closed switch (the one inside the machine, not the lock one) the game goes into tilt mode.
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Pic
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No more decimals. That was all before I rebuilt the power supply. I still get the 50 000 though. Meaning it thinks the door is open. I'm going to put a little time in on it now and see what the test mode is all about, which does work now.
Not sure, didn't the other guys say that 50 000 was normal on powerup until after the first play? The 50 portion just means the machine recorded a door open event, not necessarily that it thinks the door is still open. Remember, the casinos require the machines to record certain events like a door being opened for security reasons. I'm not sure the 50 000 is wrong.
I spoke too soon. Now when I reset it there are 2 decimal points, and when the game senses the door closed switch (the one inside the machine, not the lock one) the game goes into tilt mode.
I think the two center decimal points being lit just means that a mpu reset has happened recently, which happens when machine is powered down then back up and no game has been played to clear the display, or when you push the reset button down by the hopper. When just the two center decimal points are lit I don't think it is an error, just an advisory message. Your machine may be mostly working now, just needs to get a coin credit on it. Have you tried inserting any coins today? Also, remember you can flip dipswitch #8 on mpu so you can play a game and troubleshoot with the door open.
Does your machine have a reset keyswitch on the pull handle side of the cabinet? It is reset by turning a key in the switch (the infamous "2341" key), many slots have them. They are sometimes used to clear minor advisory faults & errors, and to reset the machine after a jackpot and ready the game for play. If your machine doesn't have a reset keyswitch on the side of the cabinet then probably that reset switch by the hopper is how they do it, but normally a slot machine has a reset keyswitch on the outside of machine to make it easier for casino personnel to do certain things and ready the game for play with the door closed.
See the attachment below "How to start a new game". They open the door with power on, press the reset switch near the hopper, display shows 50 000. Next they close the door and machine is ready to play. That means the 50 000 will be on there until the coin is inserted and spin button is pressed.
That's a good idea to explore the manual self-test and get familiar with it. If you can get the machine to cycle thru the tests ok that will prove a lot of it is working ok.
The attached photo of the cabinet reset keyswitch below is an example, yours won't be exactly like this. Also, here's some info about the manual self-test and 50 000 display:
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see attached:
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The 50 000 is normal in the win meter till you play your first spin. After that you should see what you won (if not you see zero), then how many coins played 1-3.. I would get rid of the door lock switch. These E2000 & E1000 machines can not be played with the doors open. Only in test 8.. If you try to coin the machine with the door open, it will go right into a tilt..
Gaty
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The 50 000 is normal in the win meter till you play your first spin. After that you should see what you won (if not you see zero), then how many coins played 1-3.. I would get rid of the door lock switch. These E2000 & E1000 machines can not be played with the doors open. Only in test 8.. If you try to coin the machine with the door open, it will go right into a tilt..
Gaty
Here's the page from the manual covering Self Test #8 that Amechanic is referring to:
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Ok interesting thing here. Everything seems as normal, close the door, push one of the front buttons, hear the coil engage so that I can crank it but then everything goes funky after that. The coil stays energizes as I guess the mpu thinks I have not yet cranked it. Soo... Switch test. Right off the bat it's not showing me the usual 3 ----- it says 3 580. But I don't get what the 580 code is. Obviously there's a switch problem somewhere. When I go to trigger a switch (like the credit switch) it often takes a long time for it to register 01, as it is being over ridden by 580. I think if I find out what the hell 580 means I'd be off to the races.
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Pic
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Now it's working fine (for no reason) but I don't trust it for long
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I was just wondering if you have checked your doors buttons to make sure none are sticking? If you have a slow or stick switch that could cause problems.. You do know that dhellis here has a tester for the Bally MPU and IO.. If you send him a PM, he will give to prices if your interested?
Gary
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Ok interesting thing here. Everything seems as normal, close the door, push one of the front buttons, hear the coil engage so that I can crank it but then everything goes funky after that. The coil stays energizes as I guess the mpu thinks I have not yet cranked it. Soo... Switch test. Right off the bat it's not showing me the usual 3 ----- it says 3 580. But I don't get what the 580 code is. Obviously there's a switch problem somewhere. When I go to trigger a switch (like the credit switch) it often takes a long time for it to register 01, as it is being over ridden by 580. I think if I find out what the hell 580 means I'd be off to the races.
I think the 500 series codes in Test #3 refer to the dipswitch on the mpu. Specifically, the "5" is for the dipswitch, and the "80" means dipswitch #8. Can you double-check the dipswitch settings, maybe flip them on & off a few times, see if they are spongy or soft or intermittent? Dipswitch #8 should be ON for normal game operation.
Notice that in your photo all the decimal points are lit. This means the mpu is in test mode, test #3 and the fault code is 580.
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ok, I looked at the dipswitch on the mpu schematic and I'm confused. The schematic (portion attached below) shows that only mpu dipswitch 1-6 are connected, switches 7 & 8 are not connected. But the diagram from the Bally E-2000 book shows that dipswitch #8 is used to select troubleshooting mode or normal play. Maybe this was a revision on later mpu boards. Can you verify the part number on your mpu board? And if you ever take the mpu board out you can see if there are traces that connect to dipswitch #8?
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I just found dipswitch #8 on schematic, looks like it was a revision. They used it over in the reset circuitry to implement an added feature. My guess is it allows you to test the mpu without having the problem of the cpu getting reset. Using dipswitch #8 for this was probably only on newer mpu boards, the drawing in the schematic looks hand drawn differently than the rest of the schematic. Notice that in the board drawing there is a jumper labeled "S1". The schematic shows that S1 is in the reset circuitry.
Here's what I think is going on. On older boards the jumper S1 was installed on the board and dipswitch #8 was not used, not connected to anything. If you wanted to you could remove jumper S1 and run the mpu in troubleshooting mode (not the same as built-in test mode). But normally the S1 jumper was there for normal operation. Later they decided to use dipswitch #8 to make it easier to implement this troubleshooting mode so you didn't have to remove S1 and then reinstall it. So they connected dipswitch #8 to do the same thing as the jumper S1. Notice that dipswitch #8 is normally left ON, so the connection is made just like jumper S1 would. Check your mpu, see if jumper S1 is removed. If so, I'll bet your dipswitch #8 is connected in it's place and allows easier selection of troubleshooting mode. Or if jumper S1 is on your mpu then dipswtch #8 is not connected to anything.
The chip U30 that S1 or dipswitch #8 connects is a watchdog timer, it is set to reset the cpu after a certain number of milliseconds if the cpu goes bonkers and doesn't reset the U30 timer. Some of the engineers I used to work with called it "kicking the dog", we'd even see that written in the software comments. (nerds have an odd sense of humor). That's what that control signal RWD is for, it is issued by the cpu thru chip U19 on a regular basis to keep U30 from timing out and resetting the cpu. By doing that at a regular interval it proves the cpu is running its program correctly and no reset is needed.
Anyway, I think the older mpu boards will have S1 installed and won't have dipswitch #8 being used. And on the newer or revised mpu boards the jumper S1 will be missing and dipswitch #8 does the job of S1. Since all the older mpu boards would have S1 on the board and it wasn't publicized what it was for then most people probably didn't know about removing the jumper to go into troubleshooting mode. Another thing, the way it is connected in the schematic below I don't see how the mpu could read the dipswitch #8 during test 3, since it isn't connected to the databus like dipswitches 1-6 are. So my comment about error code 3 580 may not be accurate.
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I think your heading in the wrong dirrection by messing with your dip switches. Does your machine have a sticker on the .back wall for the dip switch settings?
Lets get back to why your handles not locking out? Is the latches coil always energized? There should be a small return spring if I remember correct.. You could have a bad Triac on the IO that controls your handle solenoid? The manual should show what number Triac that is??
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I think your heading in the wrong dirrection by messing with your dip switches. Does your machine have a sticker on the .back wall for the dip switch settings?
Lets get back to why your handles not locking out? Is the latches coil always energized? There should be a small return spring if I remember correct.. You could have a bad Triac on the IO that controls your handle solenoid? The manual should show what number Triac that is??
Looks like the handle solenoid triac is Q16.
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Ok, last post before bedtime :)
Dip switch chart: yes, it is on a sticker on the back wall! It took me a while to figure that out as the manual states where the dips should be at. All set and normal. All is good with continuity, I checked them all at the the back of the board.
The crank issue: I believe the issue here was (believe it or not) the ribbon cables at the top of the door. They are supposed to be tucked in nicely with some kind of retainer (missing). SO, when I close the door to engage the machine, coin drop, I hear the solenoid for the handle click in and all is well. When I crank the handle, sometimes those sloppy ribbon cables would brush up against the wheel(s) causing a tilt of some sort, and then the reels would not stop and the solenoid was then held in.
Now, while I was messing about with continuity on the mpu I noticed that there is NO IC at U30. There is a socket, but no ic. I noticed this previously but thought nothing to check if there needed to be an IC in there in the first place. Well the schematic says 14020 counter. Does anyone know if this is to be in the board? Perhaps this is where my issues are coming from. Sometimes the LCD reads jargon, segments lit that don't even make numbers.
We're almost there guys. :cool_thumb_up: (I hope?)
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... Does your machine have a sticker on the .back wall for the dip switch settings?
The back wall of his machine does have a sticker, shows info for dipswitches 1,2,7,8.
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Ok, last post before bedtime :)
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Now, while I was messing about with continuity on the mpu I noticed that there is NO IC at U30. There is a socket, but no ic. I noticed this previously but thought nothing to check if there needed to be an IC in there in the first place. Well the schematic says 14020 counter. Does anyone know if this is to be in the board? Perhaps this is where my issues are coming from. Sometimes the LCD reads jargon, segments lit that don't even make numbers.
We're almost there guys. :cool_thumb_up: (I hope?)
well, U30 is a safety circuit, it resets the cpu if something were to go nuts with the cpu while it is executing the game program. It may not have to be installed since it only does something if there is a cpu runaway. But since I'm just making an educated guess and it should be a readily available chip you might want to install it if you continue to have mpu problems in case I'm wrong about that. The name of it is "binary counter". It may be listed as CD4020 or other part numbers with 4020 in the name, the prefix is sometimes a mfr thing. The equivalent circuit on the E-1000 machine mpu board is called U6 and it is a 4020 ic. (see attached)
Removing it is the same as removing jumper S1 (or turning dipswitch #8 OFF), which puts the mpu into what Bally calls troubleshooting mode for troubleshooting the mpu itself. Maybe someone was troubleshooting things before you got the machine and removed U30. The tech NLG member that Amechanic referred to earlier (dhellis) could say for sure since he tests & repairs these boards.
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Ok, so you're saying I do need it in order for the game not to think it's in test mode? I'm confused since you also mentioned that it may not have to be installed.
Another thing to clarify, I HAVE seen the display with no decimals before. A few times actually, where it just read 50 000. Not lately though.
During test mode, are you able to run the machine as normal? Ie credit the game up, and crank it? Because the game WORKS now, but does strange things like I can pump credits into it (and they are registering) but the lights on the front buttons (1 cred, max cred)don't always flash to ask my selection, and doesn't seem to count the credits I put in properly. I can put 20 credits in and I may get 2 or 3 pulls. Of course, I don't know what I'm putting in right now because the credit display is all wonky, which I figure will be the last thing I tackle. But still not giving me the right amount of cranks for the amount of credits. I should also mention that I cranked it 20 or 30 times and did not get any payout at all.
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Ok, so you're saying I do need it in order for the game not to think it's in test mode? I'm confused since you also mentioned that it may not have to be installed.
Another thing to clarify, I HAVE seen the display with no decimals before. A few times actually, where it just read 50 000. Not lately though.
During test mode, are you able to run the machine as normal? Ie credit the game up, and crank it? Because the game WORKS now, but does strange things like I can pump credits into it (and they are registering) but the lights on the front buttons (1 cred, max cred)don't always flash to ask my selection, and doesn't seem to count the credits I put in properly. I can put 20 credits in and I may get 2 or 3 pulls. Of course, I don't know what I'm putting in right now because the credit display is all wonky, which I figure will be the last thing I tackle. But still not giving me the right amount of cranks for the amount of credits. I should also mention that I cranked it 20 or 30 times and did not get any payout at all.
Not having U30 installed doesn't put the machine in test mode, that is done with the test switch down by the hopper. Removing U30 or S1 or turning dipswitch 8 OFF just keeps the cpu from resetting, which you want if troubleshooting the mpu board itself, and Bally called that troubleshooting mode. From looking at the schematic it doesn't appear that U30 is required for the game to run since U30 only does something if the mpu malfunctions, then it resets the cpu. But I don't know what is going on inside the game software and I haven't worked on these mpu's so I could be wrong. So unless someone tells us for sure one way or the other I'd install the chip since it is low cost and fairly easy to get. But from looking at the drawings I don't see that it has to be there.
My hunch is that Bally added the troubleshooting mode with jumper S1 and dipswitch #8 for when they needed to troubleshoot the mpu board itself, like at the factory or someone doing maintenance in the repair shop. Notice that on your mpu board in the lower left corner there is a place for a TEST switch connection. (see attached) Your board probably has a couple of solder pads where that TEST switch connection would go. When testing the mpu itself the tech could add the TEST switch connection, then disable U30 so the cpu wouldn't timeout and reset while he was working on it. You don't want it resetting when you are working on it. Anyway that's my theory. So I'm not convinced that U30 is needed for the game to work, but dhellis or someone else could tell us for sure.
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...Another thing to clarify, I HAVE seen the display with no decimals before. A few times actually, where it just read 50 000. Not lately though.
That is good, is a normal display as long as all the decimal points are not lit, the 2 center ones lit are ok.
...During test mode, are you able to run the machine as normal? Ie credit the game up, and crank it? Because the game WORKS now, but does strange things like I can pump credits into it (and they are registering) but the lights on the front buttons (1 cred, max cred)don't always flash to ask my selection, and doesn't seem to count the credits I put in properly. I can put 20 credits in and I may get 2 or 3 pulls. Of course, I don't know what I'm putting in right now because the credit display is all wonky, which I figure will be the last thing I tackle. But still not giving me the right amount of cranks for the amount of credits. I should also mention that I cranked it 20 or 30 times and did not get any payout at all.
From what I understand, if you get into test mode #8 by pressing the test switch near the hopper 8 times you can run a lot of the game functions sorta like normal. That is covered in the manual, see below. This is part of the built-in self test, not the same thing as my previous post when a tech is troubleshooting the mpu by using the test switch connection to the mpu board and disabling U30 by removing S1 or turning dipswitch #8 OFF. If you are in the built-in test mode the display should show "8" in left hand digit and all the decimal points will be lit. And it may do some quirky things since you are not in normal play mode. I haven't done this so can't describe it exactly for you, sorry. I am figuring some of this out as we go along, want to share anything I find out but run the risk of misinformation since I only have the drawings to go by, not a real E-2000.
Some of this has gotten pretty deep into the machine's electronics, and I find that really interesting, but it may not be all that helpful to getting your machine working. I suggest making sure the mpu dipswitch's are set normally, press the test switch near the hopper and do some of the built-in self tests to see what passes and what fails. If you can locate and install a replacement U30 that will eliminate any worry about it.
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...Sometimes the LCD reads jargon, segments lit that don't even make numbers.
I'd make sure the cables, ribbons that connect to that display board are not flaky and the sockets the cables plug into are good connections. A lot of time on ribbon cables the header connector is pressed on and over time it can get intermittent, especially if it is disconnected from the board by pulling on the ribbon.
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Now, while I was messing about with continuity on the mpu I noticed that there is NO IC at U30. There is a socket, but no ic. I noticed this previously but thought nothing to check if there needed to be an IC in there in the first place. Well the schematic says 14020 counter. Does anyone know if this is to be in the board? Perhaps this is where my issues are coming from. Sometimes the LCD reads jargon, segments lit that don't even make numbers.
We're almost there guys. :cool_thumb_up: (I hope?)
Ok just woke up and saw that you have been busy.. I pulled out one of my MPU Boards bad from dhellis, and it does have the IC you seem to be missing. I check the second one, and it too has one. I took a quick picture with my phone for yea.
As for the doors ribbon cable, they do cause problems if not secured. If a reel doesn't spin at a correct rpm, your machine will tilt!! I like to help hold then in place with a piece of tape.
With your display issue, have you checked the condition of the plug end of the ribbon cable for a bad pin? If its been rubbing on the reels long enough it could have a bad segment or broken wire inside.
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And we're back!
Yes, I should not have been up till 2am puttering about.
Anyway, good news is, the decimals are only 2, they always were after I fixed the power supply. So no it's not stuck in "test" mode (I meant diagnostic mode for mpu but kept calling it test mode) and the game operates fine.
The problem with the credit display was due to a bad connector pin in the .100 molex connector on the driver board's daughter board (as shown in the pic)
So I'm on to solving the last problem. The game seems to have never ending credits, and when it goes down to zero, it just comes back to 99, with a few segments (not a digit) lit before it. There's a pic of the current state. The next 99 credits might have the segments lit on the top and not the bottom.
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:thank_you:
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It appears that it was over 999 credits. It's back down to under 999 and starting to show numbers properly. I'm going to drain it completely and see if it will take my credits.
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Ok now it's down to 0 credits. I notice that I can only put 4 tokens in at a time. At 4 coins I can spin once at 3 coins and then 1 the next spin. Is there any way to add tokens and the game can keep track of how many credits I've put in on the credit meter?
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No that's normal. You can insert only one extra coin. Even my later Bally 5500 does it like that. Do any winnings go into you credit meter, or does your machine payout? I think you can set it up do either. If I remember correctly it has something to do with your cash out button, or maybe a bet button??
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Ok great! Still one problem and I believe it is battery related. I had the problem with credits being more than 999, well it seems to revert to that when I shut the game off and turn it back on. If it's anything like a Bally pinball machine, it's the battery.
You guys noticed that there's a coin battery holder on the board, would a 3v lithium battery work?
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Yes, a 3v lithium can be used. In fact I think you can mount a round coin style 3v battery holder on the board, looks like the solder pads are there. (EDIT: I forgot you already have a round battery holder on the mpu). Or you can use a remote AA battery holder and solder the 2 wires from the battery holder to the mpu board battery connection pads.
Something to keep in mind, the original battery was a rechargeable NiMh type so there is a charging path that goes from Vcc to the battery thru R62 when the power is on. You shouldn't do that to a lithium battery, so need to remove R62 and add a blocking diode. The diode will let battery power go from the battery to the 5101 memory when machine power is off but the diode will block the charging path back into the battery when machine is powered on. This is one of the mods that dhellis recommends that Amechanic mentioned. Because the diode drops about .6 v when turned on the 5101 memory will get less that 2.5v from a 3v battery, so it might be better to use a 3.6v battery. If you use a remote battery pack and simple non-lithium AA batteries I don't think it will hurt anything to leave the charging system as it is but good practice would be to add the diode anyway. The solder pads for the added diode (CR5) are already on the board, looks like Bally allowed for this in case a non-rechargeable battery was ever used.
This may be why your credit memory is acting up, the 5101 memory may get corrupted when machine power is turned off since it isn't kept alive with a battery.
I was looking for more info on the credit display board and what other boards it connects to. Does the ribbon from the credit display run directly to the I/O board or does it go to another board and then to the I/O? If so, can you tell me the Bally p/n's of those boards so I can find them in the drawings?
here's a photo showing the mod dhellis suggested:
PS> the popular, long-lasting 3.6v lithium battery shown below is often called a "Tadiran" if you want to search for it on internet. You can get them in a variety of shapes, with or without solder leads. They are used in a lot of slot machines and arcade games.
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It is possible that your machine there will need the battery. It's used for keeping any accounting information intact. Normally it's not needed, but since your machine has the credit option it might. I would have thought that is might have worked just the opposite and that you would loose and credit you had stored up? Interesting... :nerd:
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I'm thinking that the 5101 memory is used mostly for storing accounting data but there are probably a few memory locations in the 5101 that weren't being used for that so they stuck the credit data in there too on machines that have the credit feature. Then when the mpu powers up it reads that 5101 memory and displays whatever your credits are from last time. If the battery is dead or removed then the 5101 data gets random bits stored in it when powered off and then back on. This doesn't matter about the accounting data getting clobbered to the home user but the part of the 5101 that stores the credits also gets random data. When a static RAM chip like a 5101 gets powered up it's memory will have a random collection of "1" and "0" bits, not a nice pattern of all zeroes or all ones. That could be why the credits he sees on power-up are crazy amounts.
The credit info has to be saved somewhere when the machine is turned off and there isn't anyplace else that it can be saved from what I see on the drawings. Adding the battery isn't too hard for him and will eliminate it as a possible problem, but I agree with you that there could something else going on.
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Ok now it's down to 0 credits. I notice that I can only put 4 tokens in at a time. At 4 coins I can spin once at 3 coins and then 1 the next spin. Is there any way to add tokens and the game can keep track of how many credits I've put in on the credit meter?
It wasn't built to do that unfortunately, like Amechanic said. Since you won't be using the "Change" button on the front of the machine could you disconnect the 2 wires from it and connect 2 new wires from it to the coin mech trip switch? That way you could easily punch in 3 credits to play instead of having to insert coins/tokens each time.
Also, what does the blue button do? I can't read what is written on it.
(enlarged portion of your photo below)
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The blue button is actually a collect button, if you want to be paid out the credits.
I'll stick a coin battery and do the diode/resistor swap and see if my credit problem is solved.
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Ugh.
Well here I am, back again. I now have another problem, which I may or may not have created.
I went to do the mod removing the resistor and adding the diode so my lithium battery would no longer charge. I did it and was not successful. When I fired it up, it went into ....6, frozen.
Ok, so I reversed the mod, and put the resistor back in it's place and removed the diode.
Putting the connectors back on I felt resistance when replacing the ribbon cable on J3. I turned the game on and it booted up but didn't go into the normal working mode. So I turned it off. Today I grabbed a rechargeable lithium battery and stuck it in. But again, the game didn't go into normal functioning mode when I closed the door. No lights flashing. So I looked at the connectors.
Looks like I bent the pin adjacent to pin 1 (so the last pin?) and it touched the pin beside it, instead of going into the socket. When I tried to bend it back, I broke the pin. Non stop swearing over here. What a foolish mistake.
SO, now the damn game won't do anything when I close the door. If I go into load test #2, no lights or coils will cycle. Ugghghggh.
I guess my question is, if I get another ribbon cable connector (from god knows where), will everything likely go back to normal or have I shorted something out?
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I bought some ribbon cable connectors from Jamco a while back. They work but the pins are .030 shorter then the original ones. I found that I could file down the top of the board connection for a tighter fit. I did by the crimping tool for making the cable repairs.
Your other option would be to get a used one off EBay for Foxsslots.
I don't think you have hurt anything, it could just be the ribbon cable. You could look for some bad solder connections on your IC sockets in your MPU Board.
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.....Putting the connectors back on I felt resistance when replacing the ribbon cable on J3. I turned the game on and it booted up but didn't go into the normal working mode. So I turned it off. Today I grabbed a rechargeable lithium battery and stuck it in. But again, the game didn't go into normal functioning mode when I closed the door. No lights flashing. So I looked at the connectors.
Looks like I bent the pin adjacent to pin 1 (so the last pin?) and it touched the pin beside it, instead of going into the socket. When I tried to bend it back, I broke the pin. Non stop swearing over here. What a foolish mistake.
SO, now the damn game won't do anything when I close the door. If I go into load test #2, no lights or coils will cycle. Ugghghggh.
I guess my question is, if I get another ribbon cable connector (from god knows where), will everything likely go back to normal or have I shorted something out?
Don't feel too terrible about it, a lot of owners of these machines have had problems with those ribbon connectors, it is one of the non-forgiving things in the design. If there is enough length some people cut the end off the ribbon and install another connector (or have someone do it for them). Or if they aren't a lot of cost you can just order an entire ribbon cable. These type of ribbons are still available from a variety of sources. Electronics stores can make the ribbon for you, they just need to know the length, number of conductors/wires and what type of connectors you need on each end. You can send them a picture of your old ribbon cable, or if they are familiar with it you can say it is for a Bally E-2000 slot machine, mpu to I/O cable. Also, some people remove the socket style connector from the mpu board and install a normal ic socket, that way the newer style ribbon connectors fit tighter since the pins on them are sometimes a little shorter, like Amechanic said. So you've got a lot of choices on how to repair it, get opinions from guys here that are owners of the E-2000 and E-1000 machines to see what they think is the best way to go.
Ribbon cable example sources:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLY-SLOT-MACHINE-E-SERIES-RIBBON-CABLE-/350123645320?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5184fed988 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLY-SLOT-MACHINE-E-SERIES-RIBBON-CABLE-/350123645320?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5184fed988)
http://www.idealposter.com/bally_slot_machine_replacement_p.htm (http://www.idealposter.com/bally_slot_machine_replacement_p.htm)
Hopefully it is just the missing connection from the broken pin that is causing the new problem. If you have identified which pins it was on the mpu socket connector that were involved you can see what signal it is. Removing & installing those ribbon connectors on those socket connectors is as delicate as working with an ic in its socket. Your battery mod probably went fine. Don't kick yourself too much over this, you've already fixed a bunch of things that were a bigger & tougher problem. I bet if we had a show of hands there would be several others that have had this happen.
Below is the E-2000 schematic for the J3 connector and a photo of the J3 board connector showing the traditional way to number the pins on a socket, but you will need to verify this. The schematic shows the J3 socket outline to help identify which pin has which signal. Notice the notch on the J3 socket at bottom edge in the schematic drawing of J3. I think this corresponds to the top of the J3 socket on the mpu board since the ribbon plugged in here has the red stripe at the top. Red stripe usually means pin 1 on a ribbon cable.
Now on a normal ic socket these pins would be numbered 1 thru 8 down the left side of the socket, then you cross over to the right side lowest pin and continue the count upward 9-16. But since they are connecting a ribbon connector to J3 instead of an ic they may numbered it differently. You can work that out with an ohmmeter if you have to, just check the pins of J3 to the U7 chip next door since it is connected to many of the J3 pins. Also notice that nearby transistor Q2 has its collector connected to J3 pin 16. All of this should show you how they numbered the J3 pins. Maybe the guys here familiar with that cable can say what pin numbers are broken from looking at your picture of the ribbon cable.
But unless you are just wondering about it I wouldn't worry too much about it now, you could wait to see if the new ribbon fixes everything. From my looking at it J3 does not have any power supply voltages or ground connections, just has logic signals, so you likely didn't ding anything badly shorting 2 of them together. But even if it did zap an ic you'll get it back running.
another source of info:
http://www.idealposter.com/ (http://www.idealposter.com/)
You weren't tired of working on it yet, right? :garfield:
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Another idea, doesn't the same size ribbon cable run from the other mpu connector J2 to a display, or from the I/O board to a display? Could you take that cable and use it in place of the broken one just to see if the machine will boot up, since the display isn't critical? Just an idea...
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Alright guys, you're not gonna believe this but I successfully repaired the connector pin. I used a very small dab of (very expensive) conductive silver epoxy on the base of the connector and stuck the little pin back on. Wow. I'm sure if I remove that connector again that pin will likely break off, but I don't see a need to do so EVER AGAIN. I'm not touching it. That's it. There's a rechargeable lithium battery in there and it's happy.
One thing to note, I think the mod didn't work before because as rokgpsman pointed out, I believe the voltage drop over the added diode was too great for the 3v battery. But having said that, shouldn't' the game just act as though there is no battery and function as normal? Hmm…
Anyway, it's back to working perfect again, and no more messing around with it. It's been fun hanging out with you guys, hopefully I won't see you again too soon! :lol:
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Alright guys, you're not gonna believe this but I successfully repaired the connector pin. I used a very small dab of (very expensive) conductive silver epoxy on the base of the connector and stuck the little pin back on. Wow. I'm sure if I remove that connector again that pin will likely break off, but I don't see a need to do so EVER AGAIN. I'm not touching it. That's it. There's a rechargeable lithium battery in there and it's happy.
One thing to note, I think the mod didn't work before because as rokgpsman pointed out, I believe the voltage drop over the added diode was too great for the 3v battery. But having said that, shouldn't' the game just act as though there is no battery and function as normal? Hmm…
Anyway, it's back to working perfect again, and no more messing around with it. It's been fun hanging out with you guys, hopefully I won't see you again too soon! :lol:
You can still stop in and see what's going on here now & then, there might be someone new with a problem on their E-2000 that you can be helpful with due to what you've learned on your machine this go-around.
Good job on getting it back working, that was a creative idea on repairing the ribbon connector pin. :cool_thumb_up:
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...One thing to note, I think the mod didn't work before because as rokgpsman pointed out, I believe the voltage drop over the added diode was too great for the 3v battery. But having said that, shouldn't' the game just act as though there is no battery and function as normal? Hmm…
yes, I agree that at worst it should have worked as if the battery was dead, game play ok but the accounting and credit display data would be garbled.
.....I'm sure if I remove that connector again that pin will likely break off, but I don't see a need to do so EVER AGAIN. I'm not touching it. That's it. There's a rechargeable lithium battery in there and it's happy.
…Anyway, it's back to working perfect again, and no more messing around with it. It's been fun hanging out with you guys, hopefully I won't see you again too soon! :lol:
FAMOUS LAST WORDS! :wave:
MODERATOR- I guess this topic is closed.