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Author Topic: Confirm, is this a Bally 724-A? Also, need help with wiring.  (Read 3080 times)

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Offline RILaw

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Re: Confirm, is this a Bally 724-A? Also, need help with wiring.
« Reply #20 on: March 05, 2022, 11:12:07 AM »
Yes, I'm in Rhode Island, USA.  Sorry my WHITE wire that I've been talking about is the neutral line coming in, RED on Bally schematics.

Offline wolftalk

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Re: Confirm, is this a Bally 724-A? Also, need help with wiring.
« Reply #21 on: March 05, 2022, 08:39:25 PM »
Sorry my WHITE wire that I've been talking about is the neutral line coming in, RED on Bally schematics.

red isn't necessarily neutral, but for once I'm gonna shut up :-)

later model machines like the 1102 make everyone happy - the wire color convention guys, the fuse-in-hot guys and the diagrams are consistent and match how the machine was shipped.

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Re: Confirm, is this a Bally 724-A? Also, need help with wiring.
« Reply #22 on: March 06, 2022, 05:45:16 AM »
Sorry my WHITE wire that I've been talking about is the neutral line coming in, RED on Bally schematics.

red isn't necessarily neutral, but for once I'm gonna shut up :-)

later model machines like the 1102 make everyone happy - the wire color convention guys, the fuse-in-hot guys and the diagrams are consistent and match how the machine was shipped.

I was just calling it Neutral to clarify since originally in my slot it was BLUE, then I tossed the mess of a power cord that was in it (was spliced in two different spots so was actually three different power cords made into one (why not just replace the whole cord??? Lol).  So now the cord has normal color coding (WHT/BLK/GRN), but I mentioned RED because the schematics I have show BLACK AND RED and Gnd.  So was just trying to clarify on what "Mark the Spark" was saying.


Offline RILaw

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Re: Confirm, is this a Bally 724-A? Also, need help with wiring.
« Reply #23 on: March 07, 2022, 11:57:42 AM »
I don't think any bally schem is going to help for the coin door ... looks like someone did their own thing on the door.

do the wire colors match between the jones plug and socket?

the power cord wires afaik always connected to the fuse and the red wire. 

for 120V operation, the red wire then connected to transformer lug 7, tho sometimes it ran off to a power switch and the wire color coming back to lug 7 was different.

black wire 80 is also connected to transformer lug 5 and they ran off to the hopper motor, timer motor, etc.

I downsized the transformer pic and it's below.  The "correct" way to hook up the transformer for 120V afaik is to:

1] white wire 50 from game harness goes on transformer lug 3
2] black harness wire(s) 80 connect to lug 5
3] red wire 10 goes on transformer lug 7
4] power cord white wire spliced to other end of red wire 10
5] black power cord wire attaches to fuse
6] lugs 1-3 on transformer jumpered together
7] lugs 5-7 on transformer jumpered together

note the power cord black and white wires are often swapped with white power cord going to the fuse and black splicing to red wire 10.  Some late model games put a fuse in both wires and that took care or local rules requiring the "hot" to be fused.

since lugs 1-3 are jumpered, the harness wire could be attached to either.  Ditto for lugs 5-7.

tmi
----

if you look at the diagram below and connections per above, for 120V there is effectively two equal length windings on the transformer connected in parallel, so current is split and the transformer probably runs cooler. 

a common way to connected the transformer seems to be like you did it ... white wires on lug 1 and blacks on lug 5.  Red isn't used.  Jumpering lug 3-5 doesn't do anything because nothing is connected to lugs 7 or 9.

one reason you see people jumpering jug 3-5 is they are looking at the diagram for wiring for 220/240V.  In that diagram, you need the jumper to connect the two windings in series, and the black wires on lug 5 are the 120V OUTPUT to the motors.  In effect, a center tap on a longer 240V winding so the voltage there is 120V.

the other reason 3-5 is jumpered is the game was running on 220/240V and was switched back to 120V.   They didn't bother to remove the jumper and rejumper/rewire per bally's instructions.

if you hook it up like you have it ... and lots of games are connected that way ... it'll work.  As a bonus, the wire colors match.  All the current is flowing through one transformer winding, so the transformer may be a bit warmer.   The single winding can handle the current though, because it does it when the game is wired for 220/240V.

having said all that and been way more confusing than usual, it would be great of someone with a transformer handy verifies the diagram below is correct.  Without the jumpers, there should be no connection between lug 3 and 5, and measuring the resistance between lugs 1-5 should be the same as the resistance  between lung 3-7

if you look at some later model schem that used plugs to configure the voltage, the result is like the diagram.  Earlier schematics are a bit of a mess - sometimes red is tied to black, sometimes nothing appears connected, and it's a crapshoot whether it was drawn for 120V or 240V.  There's also a note similar to "for straight 120V games the black power cord wire goes to the fuse".

Thanks Again Wolftalk!!   :hail: :applause: I'm actually shocked this thing works, especially after the condition I got it in.  Have a few little things to fix (needs new lock, belly light not working, reels spinning a tad slow) but she plays and pays out good. 


« Last Edit: March 07, 2022, 03:25:06 PM by RILaw »

Offline wolftalk

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Re: Confirm, is this a Bally 724-A? Also, need help with wiring.
« Reply #24 on: March 08, 2022, 03:36:46 PM »
I see why ya went to the trouble to deal with the insides ... that looks pretty good on the outside.

Offline RILaw

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Re: Confirm, is this a Bally 724-A? Also, need help with wiring.
« Reply #25 on: March 08, 2022, 04:03:00 PM »
I see why ya went to the trouble to deal with the insides ... that looks pretty good on the outside.

Exactly, I got it for free, and didn't know what the inside looked like until I picked it up.  If I had seen the inside prior, I probably would have passed.  The other reason I put effort into it, was the simplistic EM workings.  Very easy to work on and trouble shoot (Once you confirm how to wire power lol) (I own EM pinball and Bingo machines, have owned many EM's, but this is my first EM slot). 

Thanks again!

 

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