Bally 809-ZZN Full Restoration.

[David Walz]

Regarding the coin mechanism.
The little screw in the flip open magnet door isn’t original.
This screw is for adjustment and needs to be long enough to move the door in and out.

It appears the problem is, the screw needs to be turned out allowing the magnet to slow the coin.
Depending on how far the screw sticks out the other side. It could be possible to make the adjustment.
Usually a quarter turn resolves the problem.

But in this case it might take some extra fine tuning.

Thanks, will work on that idea. 

[David Walz]

So, I cannibalize another nickel adapter, and I am getting some progress.

[David Walz]

I found out the problem, or at least one issue. The Gate with the magnet was worn so bad that I had to level it out. Then a couple of pieces were missing. I think some bozo played with it and didn't have a clue how it worked. Using parts from the European model, I was able to restore it completely. The actual frame was worn where the coins dropped.

The solenoid in the picture has to be activated, when activated it's pulling the plate finger away from the coin drop allowing the coins to drop in the hopper, or below.

[wolftalk]

just to make sure ... are you testing the mech in the game or out?

if in, is the coin lockout magnet working and pulling the armature plate away from the mech (pulling the tab out of the back of the mech).

also, the back of your mech says "50 pence english" on it.  A nickel may not work reliably, tho often you can move the slide piece on the back to make the accepting rules easier.  Guess it also depends on what parts you've been swapping onto the thing.

[David Walz]

just to make sure ... are you testing the mech in the game or out?

if in, is the coin lockout magnet working and pulling the armature plate away from the mech (pulling the tab out of the back of the mech).

also, the back of your mech says "50 pence english" on it.  A nickel may not work reliably, tho often you can move the slide piece on the back to make the accepting rules easier.  Guess it also depends on what parts you've been swapping onto the thing.

This may help.

Same:
The frame for 5¢.
The coverplates.
The Kicker.
The guage.

Different:
The cradle assembly.
The gate, magnet assembly.

[David Walz]

I have some hopper plug photos, I have checked out the location of each one and they match up to the 809-ZEE drawing:

[David Walz]

Reel photos:

[David Walz]

More reels photos:

[David Walz]

More hopper photos:

[David Walz]

just to make sure ... are you testing the mech in the game or out?

if in, is the coin lockout magnet working and pulling the armature plate away from the mech (pulling the tab out of the back of the mech).

also, the back of your mech says "50 pence english" on it.  A nickel may not work reliably, tho often you can move the slide piece on the back to make the accepting rules easier.  Guess it also depends on what parts you've been swapping onto the thing.

I sent you a PM, again I am trying to figure out which hopper I have. Thanks.

[David Walz]

So, the top compartment has a plastic gear missing a tooth. The E.O.S. switch has broken leads.

[wolftalk]

So, the top compartment has a plastic gear missing a tooth. The E.O.S. switch has broken leads.

that's right.  The missing tooth/"flat spot" prevents the unit from stepping up further than it's supposed to. 

the payout counter ratchet doesn't have a missing tooth because it needs to step around 720+ degrees (the ratchet has 100 teeth).  250 is about the max it can step tho, as the torsion spring will eventually wind tight enough to prevent further stepping.  Occasionally you'll find continuous steppers that don't reset ... they don't have the missing tooth or a torsion spring.

the EOS switch is used to increment a jackpot meter which you probably don't have.  Hardly anyone does and even the casinos rarely used them - they had their own procedures for accounting for hand pays.  The entire count unit is not needed for the game to function correctly.
 

[David Walz]

So, the top compartment has a plastic gear missing a tooth. The E.O.S. switch has broken leads.

that's right.  The missing tooth/"flat spot" prevents the unit from stepping up further than it's supposed to. 

the payout counter ratchet doesn't have a missing tooth because it needs to step around 720+ degrees (the ratchet has 100 teeth).  250 is about the max it can step tho, as the torsion spring will eventually wind tight enough to prevent further stepping.  Occasionally you'll find continuous steppers that don't reset ... they don't have the missing tooth or a torsion spring.

the EOS switch is used to increment a jackpot meter which you probably don't have.  Hardly anyone does and even the casinos rarely used them - they had their own procedures for accounting for hand pays.  The entire count unit is not needed for the game to function correctly.

So its normal missing a tooth.
Thanks that's great, one less thing to deal with.

[David Walz]

I just wanted everyone to know that wolftalk is a great asset to the slot machine community. I have a great desire to rebuild, restore, this Mint casino Bally slot machine 100% back to factory and wolftalk has the knowledge, the understanding, and patience to help me achieve my goal. Thanks!

 
 

[wolftalk]

to assist with your ocd, below is a marked up picture of your relays.

when you see switch blades bent, it's worth checking.  The factory made the switch stacks so straight new blades worked correctly ... they didn't have an army of switch adjusting gnomes running around bending blades :-)

in this case, the switch stack is missing the bottom wafer (red arrow).  There should be a thick wafer like the green arrow is pointing to.  If you have switch parts, add wafer(s) to raise the stack and readjust things so the switch blades aren't so bent.

'course, the switches probably work fine, so it's not necessary.  But if ya can't unsee the oops now it's been pointed out ...

[David Walz]

to assist with your ocd, below is a marked up picture of your relays.

when you see switch blades bent, it's worth checking.  The factory made the switch stacks so straight new blades worked correctly ... they didn't have an army of switch adjusting gnomes running around bending blades :-)

in this case, the switch stack is missing the bottom wafer (red arrow).  There should be a thick wafer like the green arrow is pointing to.  If you have switch parts, add wafer(s) to raise the stack and readjust things so the switch blades aren't so bent.

'course, the switches probably work fine, so it's not necessary.  But if ya can't unsee the oops now it's been pointed out ...

Will fix it I have plenty of parts. Thanks, yes I'm proud of my ocd, (at least I'm not AOC). 

BTW I sent you a message about the wiper number.

[David Walz]

More work.
I connected the belly light wires with the same type of crimper. The tube light was replaced, and a couple of the screws are temporary until I get the new ones. I didn't have enough screws in the door.

[David Walz]

Up top, I cleaned and serviced everything. I replace the contacts that were damaged. I have one wire that I need to solder, I just want to make sure it goes in the spot.

[David Walz]

Right now everything inside the slot machine is cleaned serviced, and the top lights are replaced. The replacement top light bulbs a NOS GE made in the United States.

[David Walz]

I don't know what to do about the door lock. I have a bracket, and a solenoid, however they don't match up.