Bally 809-ZZN Full Restoration.

[DavidLee]

Miss read the previous post.

Wouldn’t be to concerned about having a electric door lock at this time.
Most machines don’t have them and if they do it is most likely disconnected.

[David Walz]

Minor modifications could possibly solve the situation.
Drill and tap or drill then attach with screws with nuts.

Knockers are not common to slot machines.
Most pinball machines have at least one.

Curious as to what it is associated with.

I was hoping to get the correct parts. The two wires are their, the bracket is their, but no lock part.
On my 1090 I sourced the correct parts from England.

Actually, the bracket if drilled, then would be tapped and flush screws with lock washers would be used. That's factory.
See #25 in the picture.

[David Walz]

I'm heading to the reels next, what a armpit. It is dirty, just nasty grit and grime.
I removed some wanky piece of metal that was not factory. I also noticed that one meter was not Bally, thankfully I have another identical one in my parts drawer. I noticed the connections weren't Bally standard, I have replacement ones so no big deal.

So I'm getting started with the reels and the way I proceed is to dismantle small sections of the reel mechanism at a time clean, repair and service.
  I have a new clock assembly if this one has major problems. I have put new bushings in these clock assembly so its no big deal.

[David Walz]

On the reel mechanism, I will dismantle the unit, each reel will be cleaned, delicately, the steel parts can gets good scrubbing.

[wolftalk]

On the reel mechanism, I will dismantle the unit, each reel will be cleaned, delicately, the steel parts can gets good scrubbing.

you can take the reels off the shaft and clean any old lubrication out of the shaft hole, but I wouldn't recommend taking each reel apart further than that. 

if you take the tapes off or remove the slotted index discs, you'll need to realign/remount everything properly and it's not worth the hassle.

[David Walz]

On the reel mechanism, I will dismantle the unit, each reel will be cleaned, delicately, the steel parts can gets good scrubbing.

you can take the reels off the shaft and clean any old lubrication out of the shaft hole, but I wouldn't recommend taking each reel apart further than that. 

if you take the tapes off or remove the slotted index discs, you'll need to realign/remount everything properly and it's not worth the hassle.

Absolutely correct, I am only cleaning each part and not doing anything that would change the mechanism.

[David Walz]

On the reel mechanism, I will dismantle the unit, each reel will be cleaned, delicately, the steel parts can gets good scrubbing.

you can take the reels off the shaft and clean any old lubrication out of the shaft hole, but I wouldn't recommend taking each reel apart further than that. 

if you take the tapes off or remove the slotted index discs, you'll need to realign/remount everything properly and it's not worth the hassle.

Here are the parts we talked about

[David Walz]

Miss read the previous post.

Wouldn’t be to concerned about having a electric door lock at this time.
Most machines don’t have them and if they do it is most likely disconnected.

I have to put everything back inside the slot machine from the factory, the electronic lock, the counters, every wire can't be spliced, new wires installed, down to the hopper cover, everything needs to be done.

[David Walz]

On to the reels, I only remove and clean the parts, none of the alignment parts that run the wheels, getting them out of time is a disaster.

[David Walz]

More reel work.

[David Walz]

More reel work.
.

[David Walz]

More reel work.

[David Walz]

The electronic door lock. I was able to locate a plate for it in my junk bag. I had the plastic covers. 

[David Walz]

Now a the difficult part, the 110V power. The old wire was a mess, cracked, you name it, it was awful. So reading my electrical drawing until my eyes hurt, I believe that I have figured out the wires to a point.
The 110V leg  belongs on the 50V 8AMP lug, and the other belongs on the 120V 5AMP.
Now I have a red wire and a yellow wire next to this fuse block that came from their. That's the hic up. I am having a difficult time figuring out the exact location. Yellow is the common wire for the low voltage electrical.
Red is the issue.
I need more time to figure this out.

[David Walz]

So its really doing excellent. A lot more work needed.

[wolftalk]

Now a the difficult part, the 110V power. The old wire was a mess, cracked, you name it, it was awful. So reading my electrical drawing until my eyes hurt, I believe that I have figured out the wires to a point.
The 110V leg  belongs on the 50V 8AMP lug, and the other belongs on the 120V 5AMP.
Now I have a red wire and a yellow wire next to this fuse block that came from their. That's the hic up. I am having a difficult time figuring out the exact location. Yellow is the common wire for the low voltage electrical.
Red is the issue.
I need more time to figure this out.

don't plug in the game like that!  It's not right yet.

short answer:
1]  the black wire from your power cord going to the 120V fuse is correct (unless you have a power switch added to the game). 
2] the white wire from the power cord should connect to the red wire
3] the orange/red wire connects to the 50V fuse where you currently have the white power cord wire.


tmi
----
the other end of the orange/red wire goes to transformer lug 2 ... so it's a wire between lug 2 and the 50V fuse.

the white wire from your power cord is effectively tied to a red wire AND a black wire(s).  This weirdness in connecting different wire colors together is due to the transformer supporting 120, 220 and 240 volt mains/wall power, so the various wires connect to different places depending on what your input voltage is.  When you have 220/240V mains, the transformer itself steps it down to 120V to power the motors, override solenoid, delay relay, etc.

a common wiring is the red wire is attached to transformer lug 7, the black wire(s) are attached to transformer lug 5 and there's a bare jumper wire connecting lug 5 and 7 together.

below is the usual diagram that is oddly missing from the 809 schematics, but it's not literally showing the wires.  It's just saying the 120V power cord wires are eventually connecting to transformer lugs 1/3 and 5/7.       

post a pic of your transformer wiring if not sure, but it looks like red is on lug 7, two blacks are on lug 5 and the jumper is there, so that's correct at the transformer.

eventually bally made it easy and you just moved a connector between two molex plugs to configure the game for 120V or 220/240V.   The earlier games you had to change jumper wiring on the transformer and/or maybe move where the red wire attached to the transformer.

[David Walz]

Now a the difficult part, the 110V power. The old wire was a mess, cracked, you name it, it was awful. So reading my electrical drawing until my eyes hurt, I believe that I have figured out the wires to a point.
The 110V leg  belongs on the 50V 8AMP lug, and the other belongs on the 120V 5AMP.
Now I have a red wire and a yellow wire next to this fuse block that came from their. That's the hic up. I am having a difficult time figuring out the exact location. Yellow is the common wire for the low voltage electrical.
Red is the issue.
I need more time to figure this out.

don't plug in the game like that!  It's not right yet.

short answer:
1]  the black wire from your power cord going to the 120V fuse is correct (unless you have a power switch added to the game). 
2] the white wire from the power cord should connect to the red wire
3] the orange/red wire connects to the 50V fuse where you currently have the white power cord wire.


tmi
----
the other end of the orange/red wire goes to transformer lug 2 ... so it's a wire between lug 2 and the 50V fuse.

the white wire from your power cord is effectively tied to a red wire AND a black wire(s).  This weirdness in connecting different wire colors together is due to the transformer supporting 120, 220 and 240 volt mains/wall power, so the various wires connect to different places depending on what your input voltage is.  When you have 220/240V mains, the transformer itself steps it down to 120V to power the motors, override solenoid, delay relay, etc.

a common wiring is the red wire is attached to transformer lug 7, the black wire(s) are attached to transformer lug 5 and there's a bare jumper wire connecting lug 5 and 7 together.

below is the usual diagram that is oddly missing from the 809 schematics, but it's not literally showing the wires.  It's just saying the 120V power cord wires are eventually connecting to transformer lugs 1/3 and 5/7.       

post a pic of your transformer wiring if not sure, but it looks like red is on lug 7, two blacks are on lug 5 and the jumper is there, so that's correct at the transformer.

eventually bally made it easy and you just moved a connector between two molex plugs to configure the game for 120V or 220/240V.   The earlier games you had to change jumper wiring on the transformer and/or maybe move where the red wire attached to the transformer.

Thanks for straighten me out.

 

[David Walz]

After making the adjustments to the wiring, this is what we came up with. I first removed all of the fuses, I soldered all of the connections, even the white wire to the red wire, the cap keeps everything safe.
You have to admit it looks awesome inside, everything is cleaned, repaired, soldered, wires are in alignment. 

[David Walz]

So, with the machine plugged in, I started putting fuses in one at a time until I was confident enough that it was clean of any shorts, wire issues, etc. What I came up with was the 110V reel light lit up. The bulbs lit up so that's great.
The belly light is not lit, I checked it out before I put it in the machine and they lit up, the volt meter shows zero volts, so now I need to trace some wire.

[DavidLee]

Check the starter to see if it is seated properly.
Sometimes they will slip back and loose connection.
Same with the lamp if it was seated / locked in.
Assuming there’s power to the transformer.