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Author Topic: IGT S+ Door optics test fine in system settings - candle indicated door open  (Read 1978 times)

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Offline DTAR

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This machine is driving me nuts.
I'm not sure what could be causing this. I can see the input test show the door open and close but the candle still shows it open...top light off, bottom slow blinking.
That and I still get error 21 which is a coin jam, two different optics. Newer one has q2 removed. All optics in the input test are working.
I don't know what else to do..
Matt
« Last Edit: September 28, 2022, 08:30:01 AM by shortrackskater »

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"the candle still shows it open"

The candle will continue to flash until you complete one game.
Open and close the door to remove the error [21] code.
You will know if the door optics are working if the "Coins Played" led above the Max spin button goes out momentarily when you push down on the door latch.
If you cannot get the Coins Played Led to go out momentarily, then I'd be checking the door optics.

A bad set of coin-in optics could very well throw out an error [21]  onto the display.
That's the small circuit board underneath the coin comparator.
Error [21] really means that the coin-in optics were blocked for 100ms or more...not so much of a "coin jam".
Coin Jams are usually referring to the hopper optics.
Now would be a good time to service your hopper.
Check and see if the hopper optics gets blocked by a coin too long.

Anyways, I would take apart the coin-in optics under the coin comparator and clean the three holes in the decoder coin guide.
Those holes cannot be blocked...they must allow the optical beam to "see" each other as one side of the optics is an "emitter" optic and the other is a "receiver" optic on two separate circuit boards connected together by a small, flat ribbon cable of wiring.
Even a small piece of lint in one of the coin-in optic holes can throw out a [21] code.

I attached for you below a screenshot of a page I took from the S+ manual of candle codes.
You can only use on the candle codes if BOTH lamps in the candle are functional.

Click on photo below to enlarge if needed...>>>
« Last Edit: September 28, 2022, 08:30:40 AM by shortrackskater »
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Offline Jim

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describe your test results for the door open and closed.  you should see a solid number with the door open, when you close the door and put down the latch, it should start alternating from 1 to zero and continue this as long as the door latch remains down, when you lift the latch it should go to a solid number.  this is test 13_1.   if that is good, then you have to preform the coin in optic test which is in the same menu , 10_1,11_1 and 12_1.   11_1 will also allow you to test the tiny white button on the coin optic board.  this procedure is in the S plus section, how to guides.

Hope this helps

Jim
« Last Edit: September 28, 2022, 08:31:35 AM by shortrackskater »



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Offline Stayouttadabunker

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Here's a link to a short video I made for you what to watch for when doing the S   Door Optic Test Jim alluded to.
The [13-0] is in the left-most Winner Paid window on the display...>>>


« Last Edit: September 28, 2022, 11:47:10 AM by shortrackskater »
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Offline jay

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Double check your cash can - the door on my cash box doesn't have a lock, I used a small piece of electrical tape to ensure it stays closed.
....and sometimes belly door.....
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Offline DTAR

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Hi,
Yes when I go into the tests and can test each of the 3 coin optics and they all test correct.
I replaced the hopper optics already because that was bad and now it doesn't pull any errors.
The only way I can "play" the machine is plby pressing the test button on the coin optics. So far I've replaced the PCB and all the optics. still getting error 21.

Offline Stayouttadabunker

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The "test button on the coin optics" circuit board is called a "Service Coin" button.
Each press adds one credit and only works when the door of the slot madhine is in an "open" state.


The coin-in optics will NOT accept any coins until the door optics are functioning and in a "closed" state.

Did you try the Door Optics Test [13-0]??
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Offline DTAR

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What voltage should I be getting at the door optics? I feel like I should do the bypass for the door. The optics don't seem to work. I lengthen the door side wires and put both optics face to face and they will only "close" If the optics brass frames touch.

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What's going thru the optic lines is a pulsing voltage somewhere between 3.8vdc - 5.01vdc.
If you put your multimeter onto VAC readings, you would get a pulsing voltage bouncing in the range between 8.3vac - 10.1vac.

There's another way to check the door emitter optic though.
Looking at the door emitter optic with your eyes won't work because the diode emits a infrared light that the human eye cannot see.
However, when you turn on the power switch and point your phone camera lens at the door optic, you should see a blueish/ white light emitting from it.
This won't work for the cabinet-side receiver optic of course, because it does not light up when powered up.

It would be best for you to just purchase a pair of optics because it sounds like you may have burned out the emitter door optic when you messed around with the wires in lengthening them.
Crossing the wiring on an emitter diode will burn it out immediately.

Since you can only get the optics to "see" each other when they touch, what is really going on is that the ground wires ( the brass frames is ground) are probably touching against each other - just as if you've bypassed them.
I cannot promote you to bypass the optics because getting it wrong will kill your IC components on your main MPU that control the optic pulsing and then you'll really be crying because of the big bucks you'll be paying for a new MPU circuit board....get a pair of known good door emitter & cabinet receiver optics.

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Offline DTAR

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Thanks for the extra info. I probably did mess up the mpu and the optics.

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Re: IGT S+ Door optics test fine in system settings - candle indicated door open
« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2022, 10:24:05 PM »
Also, I'm getting about 9.8vac on the cabinet and nothing on the door.
Also when I use the service button l, get one pull them error 21 now. Hopper works tho.

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Re: IGT S+ Door optics test fine in system settings - candle indicated door open
« Reply #11 on: September 30, 2022, 04:26:00 PM »
Also, I'm getting about 9.8vac on the cabinet and nothing on the door.
Also when I use the service button l, get one pull them error 21 now. Hopper works tho.

I wish you would have told me if you used your phone to look for light emitter from the door optic.
However, you did mention that you aren't getting any voltage from that side when you unplug the emitter optic.
That means you have some sort of a voltage problem on that side.

Did you notice the 9.8VAC cabinet receiver optic voltage bouncing around?
It shouldn't be steady - it should fluctuate.
If it's fluctuating, then that side is okay but you must get voltage on the door side for the door emitter optic to work.

There's only 2 wires...follow them back to the MPU and set your multimeter on "continuity" to see if there's a break.
If so, repair the break to try to get around 8.3vac - 10.1vac  voltage at the 2-pin Molex connector for the door emitter.
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Online shortrackskater

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I was following this thread but no reply from OP.
Guess he fixed it!  :Scratch-Head:
Consider becoming a regular contributing member, which helps pay costs to keep this site up and running so you can keep your machine up and running :)

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Maybe he chucked it all in the dumpster?  :pos_computer: :fuel_on_fire:

After all, Matt DID say "This machine is driving me nuts."  :Crazy: :24:
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Offline DTAR

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Nope, still have it. Got a replacement mpu to do fresh checks on a known working board. I'm getting no voltage at the door sensor. Checked voltage at the female side in the cabinet the goes into the mpu and still no voltage. I know this system had a power surge in the past that burned up a few traces on the backplane"backpane" connector board that I fixed and tested with my meter. Maybe there is an issue with the transformer?
I hate this thing.

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Nope, still have it. Got a replacement mpu to do fresh checks on a known working board. I'm getting no voltage at the door sensor. Checked voltage at the female side in the cabinet the goes into the mpu and still no voltage. I know this system had a power surge in the past that burned up a few traces on the backplane"backpane" connector board that I fixed and tested with my meter. Maybe there is an issue with the transformer?
I hate this thing.
i hate mine too sometimes..did you get it fixed? what did you find?
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