New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: DavidLee on December 31, 2016, 03:09:12 PM
-
Okay, got the counter fixed. Both originals had broken advancing armatures. Only needed to fix one as I found good one in salvage.
Made a new replacement part and shoulder bolt. The shoulder bolt was conceived from the end of a reel index arm. The original
was pressed, peened over and needed to be ground out for removal.
-
Call Larry at 702-363-9998, he has lots of EM parts.
-
Larry and Bad Baud are the best in the business. You will be sure to get a good part in working order.
Happy New Year All
Ra
-
Interestingly, those counters are still manufactured and available for purchase. Unfortunately they only make 24 VAC counters and not the 48 volts we need for our Bally slots. I wonder how well a 24 VAC counter would work in our machines?
Rdaniel
-
Zzzzztt POOF !!
-
Sounds like the smoke genie will be released. Understood.
-
I tried a 24 vac, very erratic and hot. No advance, advanced correctly and counted 3 for one pulse. 24 vac is a no go. I would buy 10 originals if I could find some. A surplus store has them (48 vac) but slightly larger to where they don't fit by reels. Use them in back upper corner for jackpot counter.
Taken non working ones apart, usually cracked plastic on stepper part inside.
-
Thanks for the information. The counter I have has a blue label, TAB and Bally Electronic Counter model E-130-10. If I where to get a 24 volt counter, I would switch out the coils.
Most likely will work on them as to figure out why they don't advance.
-
I have a suggestion regarding the 24 VAC counters. Would it be possible to place a resister in series with one side of the 24 VAC counter to reduce the voltage going into the counter? Resisters are used to reduce voltages in our slots why not for counters?
Rdaniel
-
or just wire two 24 v in series
-
How's it look for you dav
Richard I just found a red candle Toppers again your counters and the Pauper will be in the mail this week
-
Thanks Jon. I appreciate all of your assistance.
Richard
-
or just wire two 24 v in series
The best thing is to use voltage-regulator (7824). The regulator transform >25v down to 24V.
-
No. The regulator is a DC device, not AC.
A 2:1 step down transformer would work but which one would be the question.
If you used a resistor you would need to determine how much current the meter draws when stepping and then calculate the resistance and power rating of the resistor so it doesn't smoke.
Simplicity dictates get another 48VAC counter.
-
Jon,
Still working on why the counters stop working when the coil works good.
I'm assuming the mechanical portion is worn down.
Going to see if I have a working counter of the same style.
Think I have 8 to 10 in salvage.
Hope to come up with a simple fix if possible.
-
No. The regulator is a DC device, not AC.
A 2:1 step down transformer would work but which one would be the question.
If you used a resistor you would need to determine how much current the meter draws when stepping and then calculate the resistance and power rating of the resistor so it doesn't smoke.
Simplicity dictates get another 48VAC counter.
I forgett to say that you need a AC/DC-bridge (4 diods)....
-
Well, lets do some math.
Lets say you want to convert the 48VAC signal down to 24VDC with a regulator.
The 48VAC is the rated RMS voltage of the AC signal.
The peak AC voltage is RMS x 1.414 which calculates out to 67.872 VAC peak.
Adding a full wave bridge using standard silicon diodes - two diodes have about a 1.4V drop across them so 67.872 AC peak minus 1.4V equals 66.472 VAC peak.
Looking at the data sheet for a LM7824CT you can see the regulator has a maximum input voltage of 40 VDC.
A pulsing, because we have not calculated a filter capacitor, DC voltage of 66.472 VAC would be to high for this regulators input voltage.
-
Thanks Badbaud. Now that I am more confused than ever, perhaps it will be best to simply use 48 volt counters.
Rdaniel
-
For those who wish to purchase 48 volt counters there are some for sale on e bay. See web site below:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Slot-Machine-Counter-from-Seeburg-Nickels-Slot-Machine-Durant-6-Y-41610-409-SE/282279571546? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Slot-Machine-Counter-from-Seeburg-Nickels-Slot-Machine-Durant-6-Y-41610-409-SE/282279571546?)
Rdaniel
-
Well, lets do some math.
Lets say you want to convert the 48VAC signal down to 24VDC with a regulator.
The 48VAC is the rated RMS voltage of the AC signal.
The peak AC voltage is RMS x 1.414 which calculates out to 67.872 VAC peak.
Adding a full wave bridge using standard silicon diodes - two diodes have about a 1.4V drop across them so 67.872 AC peak minus 1.4V equals 66.472 VAC peak.
Looking at the data sheet for a LM7824CT you can see the regulator has a maximum input voltage of 40 VDC.
A pulsing, because we have not calculated a filter capacitor, DC voltage of 66.472 VAC would be to high for this regulators input voltage.
Thats correct! I have not work with Electronic development for 16 years now so I cant the data on LM7815 in my head any more.
A sollution is to use a zenerdiod Before the regulator.
BUT! The easiest way is to meassure the impedans of the counter (let say it's 500 ohm) and put a resistor with a equal value or Little bit higher (560 ohm).
-
Okay, got the counter fixed. Both originals had broken advancing armatures. Only needed to fix one as I found good one in salvage.
Made a new replacement part and shoulder bolt. The shoulder bolt was conceived from the end of a reel index arm. The original
was pressed, peened over and needed to be ground out for removal.
-
Nice job David, your like the MacGyver of EM slots! The counters in one of my machine has ENM corporation label and it looks like they are still in business. I found counters that look just like mine on the website but they are only 24 volt version. I sent them a email with the part number to see if they still sell them OR maybe provide a solution for these old ones.
-
I called the company and asked that same question. Do they still make 48 volt counters, the answer was no more. Also I looked up the manufacturers catalog line and there are no 48 volt counters for sale.
-
If the counters you have don't work, open one up. If there is a coil and its bad, it most likely can be replaced.
-
The counter on my .5 cent machine is not working but I see someone taped and put a wire nut on another wire and I'am not sure if I should connect all 3? .25 cent has a lower door counter and I was wondering if that one could be used on the .05 machine?
-
Billy,
Brown/white is the coins out and the white/blue is coins in.
Where does the white/blue wire lead to? Should be two counters in the reel mechanism.
The counter from the other machine should work fine. Probably test it on the other machine before installing.
Save the old counter as it may be repairable.
-
Hi Dave,The .05 counter has a label that states "Direct to Cash Box" 2 wires coming out the back of the counter- orange wire is not cut and is attached to the reel mechanism, the white and blue is the other wire that is cut and taped together so maybe the cash box was used as the coin out counter?
-
Hello Bill,
White and blue I believe is the coin in wire. Also the cash box meter may be connected to the switch near the coin diverter depending on the machine. There is a separate chute to the cash box that has a trip wire switch near the end to count coins, depending on the machine if it came with one installed.
Most likely the wire was cut when the counter stopped working.
-
Thanks for that information David, another reason why I need to find a donor machine for parts
-
Bill,
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/clt/5944246930.html (http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/clt/5944246930.html)
Wow just saw this on CL Vista, Ca. Not for parts a real nice machine with stand, $300.
Sent you a text earlier, hope you get the info.
Dave
-
That might be an "E" machine with circuit boards, not an EM. Best to contact the owner and see what the tag says.
Rdaniel
-
Could be an E machine. Where would the logic board be located?
Will try to find out.
-
Looks to me like a 1090
-
Jon,
Exactly what I thought.
The earlier list said 1019, didn't think there was a 1019.
Listing has been updated without model number.
Sent email to guy asking for info on ID tag, if the is one.
-
That's an EM Slot machine.. I see a dash pot switch by the air cylinder and the payout counter is on the bottom right rear of the floor behind the over flow chute.
-
Put a couple of counters into a machine today.
Veeder-Root made for Bally..
Note if your coin out counter test good, but still doesn't work.
Check to see if the door switch lower right has be disconnected and or removed.
The brown / white brown / yellow wire runs from the payout step up unit through the switch then to the coin meter.
In some machines.
-
Of course the door switch was to allow mechanic to check pays etc. & not screw up accounting...
Veeder root, great meters!!!
-
Hi David, E-mailed the C/List seller(Gin) but never received a reply about that slot machine....
-
I also sent a message, but never heard back.
Maybe sold, but not removed.
Will check the post for any updates.
Made an offer on a 1090 in Fresno for parts.
It's a Summit machine, but still has some useable parts.
Haven't heard back from the guy.
-
it seems like there are not a lot of Bally EM for sale lately and the cheap ones go fast, I noticed the other day that one of the payout counters is skipping or not registering the correct payout all the time. Works good for most of the payouts (2,4,10,14,18) but gets funky when it hits 3 bars/100 coin payout so do you think that arm is worn or loose?
-
If the 100 is not working properly I would check the outboard wipers and the carryover circuit people clean the pay board but they don't pay a lot of attention to the hundred and 200 count or the outboard wipers clean them really well make sure your reels are clean
-
it pays out coins correctly but sometimes the counter does not register the100 on the meter. I will recheck and clean the wiper board/reels just to make sure
-
Bill please post a picture of the front of the machine
-
Hi Jon, Here is the picture of the Money Honey Kit machine
-
I would check the 100 pay contacts and metal receiver strip on the payout step up unit.
May be dirty and or have a weak connection between. Check to see if the contact is perpendicular to the strip.
These contacts are sensitive to adjustment, if they are bent down to far they will run off early and the pay will be short. Hook the meter up to the 100 pay lug and make continuity, then manually step it up to see if it runs off at 100.
-
If it actually pays out a hundred coins but the meter count is lower, then set up a hundred or more payout. Watch the meter while it's paying. You will have to jumper the door switch to have door open to set pay and have a plastic cup handy to catch coins while watching meter. What you will probably see is the meter hangs (usually same # same dial). It may take 2 or 3 coins, pulses to get it to advance past a certain number. Like when the first dial goes from 9 to 0. Not Everytime. But once or twice on a hundred payout.
As long as machine pays out correct coins.
-
Unless they are new, many of those counters have been through up to 700,000-800,000 or more turns and as such may have reached the end of their accurate and useful life. I have had the same problem with counters. They hang up or count for a while and then hang up. Some are sealed and cannot be opened unless the case is broken. ENM counters can be opened and possibly repaired.
Rdaniel
-
Payouts of the 100 and the 200 amounts are spot on every time and the fingers look like they are lined up correctly on the payout disc.The meter will work for the first 100 payout and than will stutter on the 2nd set of 100 like something is loose but then works fine on the small payouts.
-
On the payout step up unit there are contact strips under the spiral cam near the hub.
Spray some contact cleaner into a little cup and use a q-tip drenched in cleaner to clean this area.
Mostly from the 6 to 12 o'clock position. This area hardly ever gets any action so could be a layer of grim on the surface.
-
ok let me try that and I will let you know if that works.