New Life Games LLC
**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Reel Games => Topic started by: dgalvin66 on December 27, 2016, 12:18:43 AM
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So I just picked this up today for $30. The person told me it was parts complete but could not open the bottom door to verify. He had it in his mini storage so there was no power. I figured taking a gamble for $30 was worth a shot. The outside laminate needs to be re-glued because it is pealing off pretty bad, but that will be an easy fix.
Got it home and got the door open only to find that it is missing the hopper and coin comparitor right off the bat. Plugged it in and it powers on all of the lights but nothing is working.
I am not sure but think that it is missing a printed board (MPU or IO). I will post some pictures and hope that someone can help me get this figured out.
I do have the "Operators instruction manual" & "Basic Operation Class 1" Manuals in PDF. If anyone has the service repair manuals or any other info on this machine I would love to get a copy.
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More pictures
Let me know if you need any other pictures.
Thanks in advance
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It's been awhile since I have worked on these. Sorry, your missing the game and I/0 boards. I don't remember seeing that game. The reels and machine in general looks pretty clean. The boards could be found but it may be hard to find the EPROMs for the game. Good luck, at least you only have $30 invested.
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It looks like the I/O board is there, otherwise NOTHING would be shown on the displays.
You are missing the main computer board that contains the game software.
If you can find a SMI number of the reels somewhere in the machine it may be possible to find the correct software.
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I will look to see if I can locate the SMI number.
Thanks
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So I just picked this up today for $30. The person told me it was parts complete but could not open the bottom door to verify.
......I am not sure but think that it is missing a printed board (MPU or IO)......
As you know it's not "parts complete", the card cage is missing a board and like you said the hopper is gone. If I'd paid a big price for the machine I'd be talking to the seller about it, but since you only paid $30 it isn't a big deal. If you will remove that board that is in the upper part of the card cage and post a photo of it we can id it and you will have that info.
You can find the mpu boards from different sources, they will likely not have the game software eproms you need for this machine but those are also available here and there. Maybe you can use the name of the game or the artwork on the glass (the game theme) to help id the game eproms needed. The experienced folks here on Bally 5000/5500 machines can help with that, or you can contact someone like this guy that sells the game chips, he can probably help you to figure out what the SMI chip numbers are.
http://jjslots.com/Bally-Items_c3.htm (http://jjslots.com/Bally-Items_c3.htm)
Odd, but there is a tag on the side of the machine that says "SMI-1095" but I don't think that relates to the game software. There is a listing in the Bally S5500 software list for a game called "Wild 7's", the SMI is 6021.
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=207.0 (http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=207.0)
If you can't find the exact game software to match the reelstrips and glass you may be able to get something close enough to work ok for casual play, a lot of machines have different clones of the same game.
Not sure if the old drawing below will be of any help, but just in case:
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I think that the tag on the side is referring to the payout table for the machine and nothing to do with the name of the game.
I am not worried about if I find the matching software so long as I get the reel strips that match what ever MPU & chips I find. Worst case I can always make new reel strips to match the payouts on the reel with graphics to match the glass. It will just be for my wife and I to use in the living room so 100% authentic is not really an issue, just so long as it works and looks good.
I plan to completely redo the outside of the case since the laminate is peeling off but am going to wait until I have it working.
I have reached out to a few people that I know here in Las Vegas but have not heard from them yet because of the holidays. I have talked to a member on here that has the MPU board with software and the entire reel mechanism with the matching strips. I am waiting to hear from my local contacts to see if they can help me out a bit cheaper and not have shipping charges to pay in addition.
I have about 5 or 6 oval slot toppers that I was planning to modify to mount on the walls but instead I think I will just try to sell them to raise the extra money to buy all of the parts to fix this up or buy another slot instead that does not have such a poor reputation and support structure. I will give this one some time before I make a decision to move to something else since I have only had it for 2 days.
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Hope you reached out to Larry at K-Lar here in Vegas. We have a 5000 tester and many boards to help you out. 702-363-9998
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No I did not. I will tomorrow.
Thanks for that info.
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Leave him a message if he doesn't answer right away. He is nursing one heck of a cold and I am staying away from the shop until I get the all clear. Tell him badbaud sent you.
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Hi -
I have a lot of Bally 5000+ parts from a parted out cabinet, I know I have an extra hopper if needed.
Let me know what you might need. I'm in the Detroit area. The hopper would be heavy/expensive to ship unfortunately.
Carl
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I saw this posting and I am in the same boat. I picked up a 5000 Plus in good condition but it is missing MPU board and I think the sound board. PS is burned out, I suspect someone thought the machine was toast so they started parting it out. Where can I get MPU board? I dont see a lot of parts for these anywhere. It is missing SN and date tag, some plastic pieces are dated 1991. Did I purchase an $80 paper weight that lights up? Pic is attached of the tray. Thanks for any help.
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We have boards and software but would need to know what software you need on the MPU board.
We also repair the black power supplies.
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Hi -
Looks like you're missing both the MPU and I/O board - the tray holds two boards.
The sound comes off the back board (I believe) that is present in your picture (see a volume control on it?).
If your power supply is also dead, might be best to use this machine as a donor to another that is complete - putting all those things back together will likely cost more than you already have in it.
I have most of a cabinet available for parts if interested (not the boards at this time).
Cheers,
Carl
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Can we determine what software it needs by looking at the game? Pics attached.
As for power supply I will clean and re-solder the sub board and check the caps. Looks like some ceramic caps on the other transformer burned out too, they were sandwiched between the PS .
Should I contact you directly for the board?
Chris
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Thanks Carl, I will make that determination when I see the price tag on the boards.. you are right, I forgot the IO board!
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It's hard to see but the I/O board is still there.
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If the IO board isthe one right under the reels, yes it is tere. How do I get ahold ofyou regarding MPU board?
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Private Message me on this forum.
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I got the black box working but now I have this contraption to clean up. The red caps were smashed between the black box and the filter and one was froed.. plus I am only gettinf 67v out of the filter. Am I correct that the red caps are 10 nf?
Chris
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Those are MOV's. Metal oxide varistors.
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The line filter is often bypassed when it causes problems. Your home power will be "clean" enough that the line filter isn't really needed. You can take the wires from one side of it and connect to the other side.
The terminal block has several wires that make connections to each other. The round red objects are MOV's, they are for suppressing spikes in electricity. They can be replaced but probably don't have to be.
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Sweet. I was hoping to hear that. I have never seen anything like that in any video game or pinball I have ever owned.
Thanks for the continued advice.
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The MOV's and line filter box are an extra-cost item, sometimes not installed on lower priced equipment. The MOV's do offer voltage spike protection but can only absorb so many spikes before they fail. Often they go bad and there is no outward sign, it is similar to an "open" capacitor, you can't tell by looking at them. They are rated by the amount of voltage spike they can absorb for a certain length of time (nanoseconds), which works out to a power rating. If you were running the machine on electricity from a generator or in a place with large motors connected to the power line (big a/c units, refrigeration equipment, etc) then there can be lots of power spikes. But in a home it usually isn't a problem.
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It wouldn't be difficult to replace them if so I knew the rating. If there is some possible benefit to them. They test 10nf but I dont know if those are rated like caps.
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V130LA10A used to be popular.
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It wouldn't be difficult to replace them if so I knew the rating. If there is some possible benefit to them. They test 10nf but I dont know if those are rated like caps.
The ones that badbaud mentioned would work fine, any spike above 130 volts would be clipped. Inside the MOV it is similar to the way a zener diode is constructed. Normally the MOV is open and no electricity flows thru it. But if the voltage spike rises above a certain level then the MOV conducts and shorts the spike voltage to ground, keeping the spike from going further down the power line to the circuitry it protects. Because of the way a diode is made its barrier region has a capacitance characteristic but it isn't a capacitor. You can think of a MOV as 2 zener diodes connected together so that a negative or positive spike is absorbed.
In the diagram below you can see 3 MOV's and the MOV symbol conveys the idea of them being similar to two zener diodes in one package:
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I need some help finding a mpu board for my bally 5000+ stars and bars machine its a 3 reel electricmechanical slot . Please help i got the money .